Mechbuilds

Ah! Of course!

Thank you @rm8 for the input! Yeah my intention is not to make donuts. I want to make banana slides instead. So yeah, diff at front, no diff at rear and 4wd is what i'm going to go with. Now that i have a big steering lock front axle, my next issue is how to deal with the fact that the diff is 1,4:1 geared on the front axle. How do i match that to the rear with no diff? Or should i have different gear ratios on both axles? Basically yeah the idea of AWD drifting is that the front axle is controlling and moving the car while the rear axle tries to stay loose at all times. So should i try and match the same gear ratio at front or have a different ratio for the rear? Higher or lower?

Okay guys! Here is my first prototype front axle for a drift machine: It's 13 studs from hub to hub. +1 stud from using the "disc brakes" When you add these 4 stud wide tires, the total axle is 20 studs wide. So the car bodywork can be 20-21 studs wide. Works with U joints. Very sturdy and no vibration at max steer thanks to U joints being awesome. If anyone has any ideas how to modify this axle so it's better, let me know! It's basically the same idea of the hoonicorn drift stang but with a differential added for better steering and it's a couple of studs wider. I kind of dislike how the axles are attached to the H frame. I'm trying to figure out how to make it a little bit more sturdier..

Soo basically you're forced to either go small chassis that's light and low powered or a medium chassis that's high powered. With buggy motors, i'm pretty much going to go with no suspension, 4wd because i prefer a more easier long sustained drift. (rwd drift is pretty hectic and difficult to control.) Also is going for 4 wheel steering completely defeating the purpose of drifting? If i went with a "welded diff" for rear but having the rear wheels steer like 1/3rd of what the front is steering and in the opposite direction.. Or will that only just add more traction?

So basically to make a good drift car, just mass power for rear wheels and keep the chassis simple. What about suspension? If i'm using buggy motors, i should go with medium scale.. I think i want to use those charger wheels combined with those black ball joint hubs. That way i can get massive steering lock. Already tested this Drift chassis. Works wonders but it's very fragile.. One touch to a wall and the wheels fall off. (i don't have the narrow front wheel it needed.) hubs using 3 studs to attach the wheels is better in my opinion and it's more sturdy.

When building a drift chassis out of lego, which is better: RWD or 4WD? Should you go for all locked diffs or all open diffs or front open rear locked? Which motor configuration is best, buggy or L motors or what? Are the configurations scale specific? Small scale: 15 ish stud wide Medium scale: 21 ish stud wide Larger scale: 31 ish stud wide What i want is easy to use (only forward/backward and left/right) Easy to drift (tape on tyres) Strong structure (no illegal connections or over complicated caster/camber setups) So what's the best scale for this? I already ordered 2 buggy motors and was thinking about medium scale 4wd.. Is it a good idea for a setup?

Oh i didn't know that.. In that case i think i'll have to pass because i don't have the extension cable.. Besides the chinese copy is heaps cheaper and brand new.

I guess i'll go for it then.. I want to build a RC drift car and the buggy motor has enough bang to make it work. And 50€ is for me right in the top end of what i can afford to pay.. But i guess ordering a chinese knockoff would also do the trick. For that price, i could get two. But i guess lego version is better quality wise. I need to test it that it works before buying it.. Probably just plug it on buwizz and check if it spins?

A guy offered to sell me the buggy motor for 50€. (no shipping cost) Should i buy it?

i've been using wish.com.. I wonder if they have any third party tires for lego wheels?

Damn that's shaping up to be real good! Can't wait to see it finished.. How about an RC version?

This guy wins lego cranes.

We need a lego pythagoras theorem calculator for triangles.. @Sariel help our lazy arses!

Gotcha! Edited the first post.

Chrysler turbine.

Reason why i don't use sbrick = you still need a battery pack. So you're taking up space for the battery pack AND the s brick. Buwizz is more compact. Saves you space.

Buwizz is worth it. Having 4 functions and only taking up space of one battery pack. Can't really beat that. Plus ludicrous mode.

Man they had nutty things back in the day..

Yeah it kinda looks like sariels buildstyle.

Way to derail the conversation from the original topic.

Couldn't find any thread for this so i created one. So if you happen to know or find something interesting, share the idea.. Some builder might actually go for it. (Ideas that nobody has done before preferably. If you already know somebody has done it before, please post a link!) Russian AT-S: (Man this thing makes a lot of noise.. V12 diesel.)

Heaps of progress made: The rear end looks good finally. Now i need to finish up the front end. Then completely gut the frame under the bodywork and build an RC chassis. I wonder if i should bother making a hood for the front end or do it 42111 style where you have the engine in the open.

I've been using the chargers bodywork to get started.. I'll probably ditch the frame underneath and make a different chassis. Still thinking should i use smaller headlights that are sinken inside the bodywork or this style that the headlights are protruding out like in the image.. Well this is my current progress after a lot of brainstorming.. I think i kinda wanna go with the madmax style hearse that can drift.

Current project: Hearse with a madmax twist. It has a spice of the graverobber hearse for the windshield but then i'm using the buildstyle of the charger 42111 for the bodywork.. I just need to get the side panels right and somekind of chassis. Still haven't decided if i want to go with two XL motors and just go for speed to drift this thing, or should i go with one XL motor and just put a gearbox and torque it up, lift the rear end and have somewhat offroad-capability. Any tips are welcome. Trying to learn how to make bodywork. I'll probably change the bonnet design but the windshield, rollcage and roof is pretty much how i want it to be.

13 studs wide drift steering: Just remember to brace everything well and you'll have insane steering angles. Works for RWD only. You can also make a suspension for this axle but the suspension travel needs to be minimal. EDIT: Got it even more compact.. Only issue with it is that if you decide to make a suspension for it, it's entirely possible to attach springs to the lower control arms. But since the upper control arm is only attached to a single black pin, the whole axle will bend forwards when the suspension is compressed. Attaching both control arms to a frame and eliminating the whole suspension will fix the issue. Depends which one you need more, function or rigidity. Steering works fine and you get pretty great steering angle. Great for a drift machine. This width will work with the 42111 charger and cars that size.