Pattspatt

In the past I’ve used Ldraw, which has a (almost) complete library of parts. There are a few different applications that use this library; for Mac I used Bricksmith. (Other applications are listed at ldraw.org). It does take some getting used to (tip: mostly use the three small axis viewing windows for part positioning rather than the main window) but once you get the hang of it, it moves pretty fast.

The truck is very fully featured - looks like a lot of fun to operate! I’m impressed with the styling of your motorcycle, too. The fact that a 4-speed gearbox fits in there is crazy to me! I’d love to see a picture of the internals.

Wow, very impressive! The model looks great and performs well. I bet a schematic of the internal mechanisms would be a lot of fun to see, with everything so densely packed!

Very attractive model! The 3rd axle especially is very impressive - would you be able to show a picture of it from the underside? Curious to see how it disengages/engages, and still allows suspension travel.

Thanks very much everyone for your feedback! Glad you’ve enjoyed it. Yeah, this would be nice - I couldn’t find a way without a major redesign, or a more compact piece for the fan than the cheese wedge/brick built solution. (Part of it is also that every 8-tooth, 12-tooth bevel/double bevel, and 16-tooth non-clutch gear were used). Yes, I’ve run into this problem trying to explain to my wife. Hopefully the video makes this function clear for most It’s funny that this model and the A-Model both have a large amount of complexity dedicated to making a fake piston motor spin in an “appropriate” way - in that sense this B-model is in the spirit of the original. Hopefully I can make it reasonably clear - should be ready in the coming weeks.

Hi all - my B-Model from Land Rover 42110 is complete. It’s a forklift, with a design goal of minimum steering radius. Functions: Mast, controlled by knob at the back (modified version of mast from 8416) Tilting forks, controlled from main cabin Steering, controlled by HOG propane tank or adjustable steering wheel DNR selector at main cabin Fake I-4 engine Steering-activated transmission, to allow the wheels to rotate in opposite directions during tight turns, and still be “powered” by the differential. Manually adjustable fork width Video: The functions in this model are pretty densely packed: Here’s the steering geometry at its most extreme position: I had a lot of fun making this! Hope you enjoy. More photos are available at https://imgur.com/gallery/3OevclL and https://imgur.com/gallery/WKv96Fm Instructions (reverse teardown photos) are available at https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10VAueyqqde0JfZyzRMm0Sj6I-fBRnxge - sort by Name, descending for the correct order. Also on Rebrickable at https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-55079/Pattspatt/forklift-42110-b-model/#details

I came to this thread after going on down a rabbit hole searching for the best Technic helicopters - I didn’t expect to also find this truck! Very ambitious gearbox; the idea of a RWD-4WD-FWD selector is great and I’m curious to see how this was achieved with no neutral gear. @steph77 Do you have any pictures of the final mechanism? Regarding helicopters, I think your Bell “UH-77 Liberator” is perhaps the best helicopter MOC I’ve ever seen - it looks like you have refined the mechanisms down to their most elegant solution. I also love your AW-169 helicopter, but I have to say that the solution for rear pitch adjustment in the “UH-77” is beautifully simplified. I’d love to be able to build it for myself - do you have a digital file that you’d be willing to share?

Another fantastic crane accessory! Is this inspired by a real-life clamshell? I’m curious how similar the mechanisms are. I’m not completely sure, but it looks like the 1x1 cheese wedge connected to the “tackle block” catches on the liftarm that controls opening and closing. Not sure how it disconnects from the liftarm, though.

I’ve noticed that the black 3L axle pin (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=18651&name=Technic, Axle Pin 3L with Friction Ridges Lengthwise and 2L Axle&category=[Technic, Axle]#T=S&O={"iconly":0}) seems to have less clutch power than the blue 2L - maybe this could be an easy substitution?

Don’t know how I missed this thread until now, but this is amazing work! I’ve never seen a climbing frame in Lego form before - it’s always been on my list of future Technic projects. Fantastic job! This is an amazing function that I didn’t know existed until now. You’ve represented it perfectly! When I do get around to trying my own version of a climbing frame crane (which will be at a much smaller scale), I may have to borrow some of your ideas for this mechanism.

A simple solution could be to add another spring right next to the existing, secured with a 3L axle with stop at each end.

I’ve got exactly the same feeling - I’d love to build this amazing model, but I might have to wait a year or two for part prices to (hopefully?) come down. Reverse teardown photos would be work for me, though!

Fantastic job! Love how functional it is - it looks like everything works at a nice speed, too. Any chance of a close-up of your servo motor steering connection?

Fantastic job - this is the first time I’ve had any interest in buying the Porsche! This looks significantly more attractive and playable than the A model.

Very interesting! Looks like pretty good performance for such an unusual method. I wonder, does the slippage in low “gear“ have anything to do with a higher differential speed across the width of the tire? I wonder whether a thinner tire would help.

I haven’t used this for suspension - I agree, it’s a lot clunkier than the cv joints. However it’s working well to get Hand of God steering to an adjustable-position steering wheel. So, not a driveshaft in the traditional sense, but still technically transferring some torque. The steering wheel in my case is able to turn the wheels using this set-up pretty easily.

I’m sure I’m not the first to discover this, but I did a search of the forum and didn't find this solution. For low-torque applications, this works great! There’s a video of it in action at https://m.imgur.com/p8SfCMW

Just yesterday I did this - I used needle-nosed pliers wrapped in printer paper & taped. It’s a good idea to mount the portal to a beam, and mount the hub to something as well to help you pull. What I did was I got a grip on the lips of the Hub with the pliers, squeezed, and then when they were visibly “squished”, I started pulling on the hub and it came out pretty much immediately. It didn’t seem like there was much risk of the hub prongs snapping or permanently deforming - but they did lose a small chunk of plastic from their edge. Shouldn’t be enough to affect future performance, though. Either my plier wrapping job was insufficient (the paper wasn’t well secured), or the parts really are that delicate.

Yeah, it’s extremely difficult to get it just right. There are so many things to tweak, it’s nearly impossible. The red clutch gears being rougher on one side, the new tan bevel gear mold being rough on both sides and maybe slightly too large, and the list goes on. I’ve found that for some of the connector-based bracing (especially right before the engine), the most reliable way to decrease friction is to actually slightly separate the connectors - which widens the possible number of things to fiddle with even more. (I’ve circled a good place to do this below) And then keeping all this fiddly detail intact while marrying it to other assemblies and adding all the bracing in later steps..... My LR is disassembled right now, but when I rebuild, I’m going to try to get this fiddling just right. I didn’t have any cracking on my last build, but there was definitely friction build-up when the fake engine was spinning at its fastest - it would start spinning in rapid spurts. This set could definitely be a lot better optimized for performance/ease of assembly, but if you’re in the mood for a challenge, trying to get this one working exactly perfectly in the stock configuration is a tough one!

Yes, 42110’s gearbox is almost correct if you just flip the stickers - except reverse then runs at the same ratio as 4th gear. Glad the Sian could use a tried-and-tested gearbox, while improving on the Chiron’s many non-gearbox issues!

I see where you’re coming from - but I think the geometry in v1.3 is correct, in theory. One way to make Ackerman geometry work is that if you trace back the angle of the tie rods when the wheels aren’t turned, the imaginary lines from the tie rods intersect in the middle of the rear axle. v1.3 moved the tie rods in front of the wheels, as in the photos in this thread: https://tbucketeer.com/threads/front-steer-steering-arms.17329/ I think the source of friction that you’ve identified is probably accurate, though (I haven’t built v1.3 yet) - but in theory, jb70’s geometry looks correct to me!

Hey, wonderful! I’m flattered to have (some of) my work included in your instructions. Looking forward to trying out v1.3!

@jb70 Very cool - nice job!

Love it! It’s a very fun shape - creative solutions for the bonnet, too! Those adjustable seats are very nice; I might have to try adding those to mine.

I’ve made a “Easy” Body-Removal mod for the Land Rover. Maybe it’s not quite easy, since there are some ~28 odd connections between the body and the chassis still. But they go pretty fast, and I’m happy with it. I was trying not to sacrifice sturdiness with this mod, and on that note at least, I think I succeeded! Here’s a look at the new cassis underside. The yellow highlighted areas are pins that need to be pulled out. Then there are pins beneath the seats, behind the front wheels, and in front near the engine. There’s a photo overview at https://imgur.com/gallery/8f9xc0A. Once all the connection points are removed (and the winch is let out), the entire body lifts off the chassis intact, with seats still attached to the body. I’m thinking if anyone wants to do a “poor man’s lift” of a few studs, this mod could make it very easy. Of course, just reattaching the body to the chassis a few studs higher isn’t very realistic compared to a lift in real life, but hey, this is still an option! If you want to do the mod yourself, I’ve made a more detailed how-to album at https://imgur.com/gallery/LNzFsq8.