SNIPE

Yeah the way they used only the bottom half of those technic hinge plates on the shuttle but with an axle going through instead of a typical pin connection is genius. As is the landing gear mechanism though it would have been nice to add steering for the nose landing gear somehow

This is unbelievably good Well done.

Yes is big but that just shows that lego can be done at almost any scale...there is no rule book. Infact building large scale technic is hard because structures must be strong and sturdy enough usually in all 3 axis so you have to brace things in ways that you dont really see in technic sets, but you have to think about keeping the weight down enough and how to drive it with motors too

2019 was a great year for technic. 1h was alright, 2h was 4x4 off roader, spider crane and car transporter. 3h was land rover and liebherr. We also saw spike prime but it was delayed till 2020 for most people.

it allows the left or right axle to be turned on or off while letting the black gears still rotate at a different speed or rotation

Wait I thought the CAT D11T was the flagship, yet it looks tiny for 4K parts compared to the zetros.

Cool idea, and something I've never seen before.

I wish lego would make something like this either by making a 3L pin joiner essentially where it has a cross shape so that the clutch ring can mesh with it or as a 3L axle joiner that has axle holes and allows the clutch ring to not mesh with it but be centred in place correctly. The second option is kinda what I have in this image but the orange part is from a pullback motor so its not very legal/purist though it is just the right diamiter and width (3L) to not allow the clutch ring so wobble about too much: This would allow the two pairs of black gears to drive each other but without effecting the rotation of the orange inner ring, however if you drive it via the red gears then it acts just as normal. There is a lot of potatial uses for such a part, you just wouldn't really use it on an input axle. whichever way lego will hopefully decide to do it, I hope it has a through axle hole with friction or a pinhole all the way thoguh therefore supporoting a through axle anyway. I say this because what if you need to have a 0.5L/1.5L/2.5L/etc axle sticking out of of the gearbox, well you would use a 5.5L axle with the thru hole design, whichc you cannnot do with the corrent axle joiners becuase they are not thru holes

This looks epic !

Certainly, I will post updates. I did try to make my design in the original post more compact but then it uses more gears but less specialized gears. There may be a way to do the same as above using 3 four wide differentials and 3 clutchrings arranged in a pyramid. As for the logic "blocks" in lego, I know you can do addition and subtraction using a differential, you can also do drive but not reverse drive (kinda like a worm gear but this is linear+parralel not purpenducular) You can also make a bus using the same differential which allows input A and B to drive the output but the inputs do not drive each other, so one can be stationary or in reverse of even going a different speed to the other input. Then of course theyre multiplexers and demultiplexers which is just merging several moving axeles into one axle using gears, and vice versa for demux There is also rotational gate thingys used in the gearbox of set 9396 (see here) and you can add additional outputs at different rotational positions not just one like in the video. So all of the above "logic blocks" combined in different ways should be enough to get the logic for each instruction done and get the registers done. I have thought about using logic based on the speeds of gears too but thats more an option if doing it this way gets too-too hard.

I have worked on logic stuff with lego in the past, I started with the instruction set first because I kinda had a random good idea on how to encode the instruction set. I did see a working lego LCD display before so it would be cool to interface with that but to keep it simple for now im just looking at which direction the output gears are spinning and slow the motor down to see that better. Same encoding yeah. I think ill have 3 bits per register but this is undecided. Yes there will be clutches with levers for the A and B registerand X is for the result, no DRAM yet.

Thats all correct yeah. 3 bits with two possible values = possible 8 instructions 3 registers (A, B, X). However some instructions will actually use more than one "opcode". The opcodes are the individual logic mechanisms. Some instructions if theyre simpler may only need one mechanism i.e a single opcode. I want to have CMP too but im still deciding on the remaining two instructions. Of course none of this is trivial so im taking a day or 2 off to get my head out of a pickle.

Yep, they also made the same thing but with only one pin, so "pin with barhole and pinhole" also on LDRAW

yeah I decided to change it

There's a new version of 44874 with the part number 80787 and it has BAR HOLES :D I found it in ldraw parts tracker, used with a 2L rigid hose or 3L bar or bar with ball is super useful. So many possbilities!

done! I ran out of gray 28T gears so I used a 28T idler gear. the battery box switch is blocked off so can only go one direction

Ok so if I use clockwise for 0 and counterclockwise for 1 then it needs to perform the following logic: If I have a motor that only rotates in one direction which rotates the clutch ring If the clutch selects gear A and rotates A clockwise and B anticlockwise And if the clutch selects gear B it rotates gear A anticlockwise and B clockwise so my original idea works then :D the output idlers are just tied to a single 28 tooth gear which is the true output.then I copy this again twice to get the folllowing posssible outputs: 000 - ADD 001 - SUB 010 - MOV 011 - JMP 100 - LDA (load A register) 101 - LDB (load B register) 110 - undecided, maybe STA ((store A) but mov can do this anyhow IIRC) 111 - undecided maybe STB ((store B) but mov can do this anyhow IIRC) The friction pin on each 28 tooth gear prevents vibrations from moving it and the 20 tooth gevel gears when the clutch is in the middle position sos this is perfect (unless the middle position causes problems which I fear but we will see)

Hi, Is there a way to have a two position clutch but where it selects either gear A or B while the disengaged gear is stationary. Putting a clutch ring between a 16 tooth ot 20 gear and a 16 tooth idler gear or 20 tooth idler gear has two positions but this selects BOTH gears if the clutch is enaged in the idler gear. I know how to do it using a 3 position switch but the middle switch position causes synchronisation problems to cut a long story short, and this counter rotates the opposite gear, instead off letting it be stationary. Regards, Snipe

Yeah he said he's busy at university so hopefully he comes back after he's done with that. You could also possibly make a two converter by using the mechanism in the time stamp. you have the lever acting as an or gate by switching between either a gear train with an odd number of gears OR a gear train with an even number of gears but both go to the same output. in the video below theres only one gear train not two but you can add one.

I Belive that LegoTechnicMastery made a two way rotation to one way rotation converter on youtube. it just uses one 4L differential.

Hi, Today I came up with a way to make my Super Compact 8 Sequential Speed Gearbox even smaller with a width reduction of 3L, and simplifications on the stepper (like before, the other half of the stepper must be external and your own implementation) I achived this by making good use of the fact that it is possible to make a lot of gear combinations that just are not possible with whole unit spacing (eg:1L,2L,3L,4L,etc) There was a few things I knew I could not change like the orange rotaty shifter having a maximum spacing of 3L with the the outermost top clutch rings but the bottom ones actually connect at 3Lx2.5L and there are some strange ratios too like 24:16 and still have 16:!6 work as well as 20:12. Here are the pictures, I wonder if theres away to now get rid of some of the gears that are outside of the frame since we can replace these with just 2 more weird ratios tthat only work with non-whole unit spacing: I also shorted the limiter and stepper mechanism by accident really haha, I noticed that the pinhole with two opposing axles would catch on the 2L liftarms when I tried just making the typical stepper mechanism with rubber bands, so then I just replaced it with a white 1x1 beam and put another 1x1 beam in the pinhole for the limiter. LDR file and instructions coming soon, I need to contact @1963maniac Regards, Snipe

I wonder if the "teeth" on this part could act as an 8 position rachet by putting something that locks beetween the teeth but is on a rubber band so it can also skip to the next gap between the teeth: could be useful for paddle shift mechanisms etc. Regards, Snipe.

shame they discontinued those 3L worm gears. they have potential, because the other two worm gears might not fit in some rare circumstances.

same, we will get there one day :)

Thats genius !