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Jeffinslaw

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Everything posted by Jeffinslaw

  1. Jeffinslaw
    For those who are interested, there was a line at the top of the file that needed to be removed, the line was: "0 !LPUB PLI INCLUDE_SUBMODELS GLOBAL TRUE" once that line was removed, things have been working well. Now to just figure out why my Lsynthed parts aren't showing up... -Jeffinslaw
  2. Jeffinslaw
    That did not work either unfortunately :( I'd be willing to PM you the file I am working on for you to look through?
  3. Jeffinslaw
    I am using LPUB4 version 0_0_10 for Mac OS X, the latest one for OS X found here: https://sourceforge.net/projects/lpub4/files/
  4. Jeffinslaw
    Right clicking on the specific part in the PLI only results in "Change Part Margins."
  5. Jeffinslaw
    Thank you for your assistance! Unfortunately, when I right-click on the PLI, I get the following options: Change Shape Move Bill of Materials Change Bill of Materials Background Change Bill of Materials Border Change Bill of Materials Margins I guess I am going to have to unpack the callout. I can try and fit it all onto one page though. -Jeffinslaw
  6. Jeffinslaw
    I don't necessarily rebuild it but move parts around so they are in the correct step if that makes sense? I create the steps with MLCad/Bricksmith as my stud.io designs are all "one step." -Jeffinslaw
  7. Jeffinslaw
    I do not use LDD, thanks for the suggestion though! My workflow is as follows: create design in stud.io export to .ldr format rebuild model step by step in Bricksmith if I'm on my Mac or MLCad if I'm on my desktop create instructions with LPUB I really wish stud.io would implement some sort of instruction feature as well as Lsynth. The second would be much, much appreciated. -Jeffinslaw
  8. Jeffinslaw
    Hi guys, been working with LPUB here the past few days and I am having a few issues that I can't seem to find solutions to. Props to anyone who creates instructions with this program, it is very finicky. My issues: I can't figure out how to remove the complete sub-models from the parts list. I've been able to remove the parts list from the callout but the assembled sub-models still show up in the parts list with all of the required parts. Also, I can not figure out how to move a callout to another page (if this is even possible). This callout is somewhat large and I am having issues sizing it correctly for the page. That brings up another issue, whenever I try to change the margins of an individual callout, nothing changes. This program is highly frustrating to say the least. I've attached a screenshot of the specific step that is causing me so much issues. part_list_issue by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr As you can see, I've crossed out the parts in the part list that I want to remove. I also want the first smaller callout to be displayed underneath step 1 and 2 such that the whole callout will fit within the page. Hopefully you guys are able to help! -Jeffinslaw
  9. Jeffinslaw
    They're becoming very rare as well.
  10. Jeffinslaw
    Any ideas on what to do since part 48336 in reddish brown has become incredibly rare? Using black just doesn't look as good. -Jeffinslaw
  11. Jeffinslaw
    Got my shapeways order today! Somehow ended up with eight! additional wheels! Score! Here is a picture comparing the injection molded LEGO flanged/blind drivers to the "Black Premium Strong and Flexible" and to the "Black Strong and Flexible." 3D Printed Boxpok Drivers by Jeffinslaw, on Flickr As you can see, it is definitely an improvement but still quite a ways off from the injection molded pieces. Wish Ben Fleskes could create some new drivers but injection molding is expensive... -Jeffinslaw
  12. Jeffinslaw
    My shapeways order was supposed to arrive today. Sadly it did not, been having major problems with UPS and USPS lately... on another note, is it possible to get these made into .DAT files for MLCad etc.? Would be nice because then we can design for proper spacing which is quite difficult without buying a ton of each part. -Jeffinslaw
  13. Jeffinslaw
    The bearings fit easily into the technic bricks without having to heat them up. Just line the bearing up with the hole and hit it into place with a hammer. Doesn't use much force and doesn't destroy the brick. -Jeffinslaw
  14. Jeffinslaw
    I just made an order from some of the Premium black. $140 for 12 wheels, yikes, hope it is worth it! Will probably get some of the XL Boxpok drivers if the premium black works out well. I love the large Boxpok drivers I bought for my SP Cab Forward, just wish the finish was a bit better but not much you can do with 3D printed stuff. -Jeffinslaw
  15. Jeffinslaw
    Part 48336 and 2540 are indeed getting hard to find and expensive. I emailed altbricks inquiring if they could start manufacturing those parts to help with the demand (I cited that for people modeling boxcars from the first half of the 20th century need a lot of these parts). Wondering where they are on that... -Jeffinslaw
  16. Jeffinslaw
    Yikes... not great for the community...
  17. Jeffinslaw
    I'm throwing money at the screen but nothing is happening! I have also been one of those individuals buying large quantities of the train couplers and magnets... -Jeffinslaw
  18. Jeffinslaw
    Great use of the pistols on the trucks, I did something similar with the trucks for my Great Northern Empire builder: -Jeffinslaw
  19. Jeffinslaw
    Glue is your friend... I had to glue all of my ME 104 and 88 together.
  20. Jeffinslaw
    Excellent job on these. My favorite is the Rio unit. Bright light orange is an exact CMYK value match to the real world color they used. -Jeffinslaw
  21. Jeffinslaw
    ME Models currently uses code 100 track for their curves and rail joiners. They have to use straight pieces of rail which does provide a little bit of issues on tight radius curves I believe. That's all I know. -Jeffinslaw
  22. Jeffinslaw
    This looks exciting! Since it is 3-D printed, can you design the switches to have groves cut out to fit HO code 100 track? -Jeffinslaw
  23. Jeffinslaw
    This. My girlfriend and I spent a good solid week gluing 180 sections of track. WELL WORTH IT. This stuff is solid and doesn't break apart, rather "explode" when you touch it. Take your time and glue it. ME Models does plan on doing solid pieces for their plastic track eventually. -Jeffinslaw
  24. Jeffinslaw
    Looks great! Can't wait to see a video of it running! -Jeffinslaw
  25. Jeffinslaw
    Looks killer! -Jeffinslaw
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