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Dutch_EE

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by Dutch_EE

  1. In my opinion the 'log loader' seems to be a bit of a redemption for Uwe. Finally he has been able to produce a set that both has reasonably good looks and has motorised functions. His 8285 tow truck really looked to be simplified or rushed. This 'log loader' does not. Also, it both looks good and has motorised functions for a lower price than the 8285. I do think they have the same functionality. If I would compare this truck with the flat bed truck from this year, it looks like the extra money well spend. And yes, the 8868 is better. So what. I still think that it is nice of the technic team that we get a model that looks like a re-make. Off course the white bull bar is missing. But still, that is easily added.
  2. I'm really jealous about this MOC. This is what could be a cool Flagship. Lots of PF, remote controlled and lots of fun to play with. Off course, the official Version would be a bit more simple than yours because of the costs. I would love to see building instructions though. I if would build a copy I wouldn't use that many antenna, but still, looks good. I take it, taking all those antenna apart is a pain. They always seem to separate, leaving the round base attached to the model and holding the rod in your hands. The 'roahr' comes from the Dino creator ?
  3. I agree, a great alternative. One question, how do you operate the LA that extends/folds the tail ?
  4. I think that the winner of this Challenge only wins the Unimog, were as the winner of the year gets the hole year worth of Technic. Because he or she already wins the Unimog, they are not applicable for the even bigger prize ?
  5. Maybe it could work if the rear axle would turn as well. Plus the removal of the front and rear axle diffs. (The center diff could be build such that it can lock)
  6. By the looks of it, the 9395 tow truck doesn't use the mini-LA's And the plane has no ailerons or flaps. Instead it looks like the hole wing assembly folds. Luckely it has got working landing gear. Can't wait for the pictures of the wood-transporter though. As for the suspected 2h sets : I don't need a tractor. The rock crawler isn't something for me. The helicopter sounds interesting, as long as it has a fully functional rotor with cyclic-control. Maybe with the flex system. Also sad, NO attachments for the Unimog. Although, maybe one of the B-models could be used as such.
  7. You mean, the opposite. The reason the gears slip, is that there is too much torque going trough them. To prevent that, you need to increase speed, and with that decrease torque at those points. The problem in the 8285 tow truck is, that I couldn't find an replacement gear set for the connection of the driveshaft to the differential. Also, if I change the 8 -> 24 reduction from the XL motor to 16 -> 16, the motor doesn't have enough torque to drive the truck. Sorry, I meant the 12 -> 12 gears. Or to make it completely clear where the problem lies, the transfer is Motor -> 8 to 24 -> 12 to 12 (at 90 degrees, this slips) -> 12 to diff
  8. Hello, the only problem with motorising the 8285 tow truck, is the connection from the drive-axle to the differential. Those two at right angle placed 16 tooth gears only bearly mesh into each other. With my version of motorisation : a XL-motor with 8 -> 24 reduction, leads to gear stripping as soon as there is any resistance (rough carpet or even in a turn ) If you use an M-motor for drive, I would suggest at least 2 or three stages of reduction or, like me, use a second diff for the second rear axle. This how ever doesn't help the gear stripping :( Here, a picture of my solution. You can see the XL-motor, the 24-tooth gear, the 2 troubling 16 tooth gears and the diff. Also, the second diff is inserted. Also, look here : My motorisation thread
  9. There is a discussion about where to put a drive motor inside the Unimog. I know it is (almost) blasphemy, but it's quite easy to build in the XL-motor over the rear axle and still have 4WD. The only thing you need to do, is to take out the center differential, and replace it with a nr. 3 axle joiner and a 16 tooth gear to keep a driven engine as well as a driven front axle. If you miss power, you can always change the gear ratio inside the portal gearboxes from 16->16 to 8->24. Just don't forget the small change in the front axle, because otherwise the 24 tooth gear doesn't fit.
  10. I think I can build the snow plough with parts from 8264 - Hauler (most of the panels) 8049 - Pneumatic Log loader (all the pneumatic parts) and with leftovers from 8070 Supercar B-model (rest of the panels, cheating a bit) 8258 Crane Truck B-model (rest of the beams) If I then still miss parts, I still have some in my collection, or else I cheat.
  11. I ordered mine today. It's on 20 % off on Toys R Us. At least in the Netherlands.
  12. I'm wondering how he split the PTO in two. Is there a clutch somewhere to switch between turning and lifting the mowing-arm ?
  13. Does it float ? If it does, it would make a brilliant boat.
  14. I don't know what you have seen from the Unimog, but the chassis is completely different. Not only is the chassis a bit bigger, the biggest difference is that The Unimog has pendular suspension, this has individual suspension. The only thing that is equal to the Unimog, is that there are Portal axle reduction boxes. These can also be baught without buying the Unimog.
  15. Uhm, is that with the LED's off or on ? With LED's ON I'm not that surprised. Those 20 LED's use a hole lot of power.
  16. As I said in the other 'next flagship' topic, I would love to see a fully remote controlled walking biped dinosaur. A bit like the T-Rex in the old 'control center' set, but then off course without wires.
  17. I'm planing a soda/sand/salt-hopper plus a application wheel. This will fit nicely with the snow plough. It will be the end of August before I have a hope to be ready.
  18. Any ideas how to control the direction ? Backwards and forwards looks easy, but how to make it turn the way you want without it toppling over ? I'm thinking about an hidden wheel inside the feet. Than it can turn when it is stationary, but how to turn it at speed ?
  19. Nice racing truck. The only thing missing for me, is the fake engine sticking out behind the cab. (like the Technic racing truck). The scaling isn't that bad, but 5 studs extra length would help. Does it have opening doors or a tilting cab?
  20. This would lead to the assumption that the 'un-clutched' compressor would give problems. Like Aino said, and I agree, the pneumatic switch has never given problems. That said, maybe this one leaks under high pressure. It has never seen a bigger strain than in this model, MOC's excluded.
  21. Hi, i've seen many quadrupeds, trip-eds and octopeds, but I wonder how many bipeds have already been build out of lego Technic. I have seen one 'raptor' at Technicbricks, but that one uses Mindstorms. I wonder if it is possible to make a stable walking biped with PF-motors (and remote control).
  22. A dinosaur JEAH, like the Tyrannosaur in the 'Control Center'. If it is then remote controlled and walking drool And if it were in Black, with green and/or orange, I'm sold
  23. @Aino, Where would you put a PF-Switch, to compensate for the almost impossible task to stop the battery box in the middle position every time?
  24. I can take a guess at how the movements are made with 4 motors, 1. The drive motor (maybe XL) 2. A M-Motor that drives a subtractor (also connected to the head, this motor moves it left and right) 3. An M-Motor for both of the linear actuators 4. An M-Motor that closes and opens the grip. (this could do the eyebrows, maybe with a clutch) For as far as the eyebrows and tilting of the head I think that they are linked and that the 'scared' look happens every time the robot goes backwards. (and an other motor is in a stop position)
  25. Hmm, my first Mod for the Unimog. A PF-switch. still can't wait till it comes out for sale.
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