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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. For a supercar that's still substantial clearance and travel. Nice to see that you are trying to incorporate such features.
  2. :thumbup: That's a very informative clarification, thank you very much!!! Besides causing friction, the worm driving against the stop may also dearrange your gear casing, if you didn't anticipate this. Good to know all this.
  3. Like with many other builds, your mind should fill in the gaps. But in this case it might be that you'll have to look at it for a very long time before that happens :wink:
  4. I understand your point. As far as I know worm gears are not just useful for amplifying torque, they are a means to transfer torque in one direction - from worm gear to gear and not the other way arround. Isn't that the actual point of using worm gears? The video indeed shows that worm gears have more friction. The video would be even more valuable if you could elaborate on why the worm gears have more friction. It must have something to do with the fact that in a worm gear - gear mesh the contact faces of the individual gears move in orthogonal directions, whereas in a normal gear - gear mesh the contact faces of the individual gears move in the same direction.
  5. Good enough, thanks! The numbers of parts needed for each step could be a little bigger and I personally don't like pink for highlighting (I suspect you used this Blue??? tool for this). But don't feel obliged to put in more effort. This one is so simple it should be doable by looking at the image ;-)
  6. ...and I had fun building it. its smaller brother fits inside.
  7. You're welcome! I got a personal message with more or less the same solution from LXF: "You must make modules with 3l pins pointing inwards with their short side and being inserted up to the stop.Then just push them in" Came in at 6:35pm, that's one minute earlier than vectormagic :sceptic: . But I won't take back prizes, so I'm affraid I will have to double the prize money :wink: . 10 points for LXF! make that triple . And these are the first real instructions!!! 12 points for Epic Technic!!! And thanks!!!
  8. As for the gearbox casing: To avoid friction I would adhere to at least two of my many rules : 1) each rotating axle should be supported by at least 2 - preferably not adjacent - pin holes, and 2) the casing construction should be completely self-supporting and not rely on any of the rotating axles.
  9. Correct, I just build it that way. 10 points for you!
  10. Who is the first to provide legal instructions (legal as in 'not making use of slack') for this cube? It is possible . LXF-file here.
  11. These are my first builds when I was only just awakening from my dark age. One for my son (red) and one for my daughter (yellow). They both have Ackermann steering and torsion bar suspension for the rear axles. Originally they were also equiped with seats and a pickup trunk, but those got sacrificed in the act of play. These small builds reveal that I'm more into suspension and steering kind of things than into realistic bodywork. I'm affraid all Lego Technic generations are represented in these builds. The gray brick at the bottom of the yellow car's grille goes back to the first generation of Technic parts.
  12. Somehow this thread teases out the best kept secrets . Some MOCs - like the one above - look really good. Keep them coming!! :thumbup:
  13. I made a small LDD-design which incorporates the essentials of the Rocker-Bogie suspension. I did my best to give the body a firm hold on the axles to which the rockers are attached. These axles (with end-stop) are supported on both sides of the spider gears and can't fall out of the body. The position of the body averages between the rockers. The center of gravity of the body is placed exactly above the middle pair of wheels. I didn't build this. It was just a thought experiment to get a good understanding of how this works. Gif-animation here LXF-file here.
  14. If you have a steering setup that is not wobbly, then Ackermann steering certainly makes sense (with wobbly I mean a setup that suffers from substantial toe-in and toe-out depending on the driving direction). You have to find out in practice what will work out the best. It could be that one of the rear axles carries more load than the other, which will affect the ideal pivot offset. My experience is: When your pivot offset is too small (insufficient Ackermann), then your front wheels will effectively suffer from toe-in in turns. Due to slack in the wheel hubs, this will visibly add unintended positive camber to your front wheels when driving forward and negative camber when driving backwards. When your pivot offset is too big (too much Ackermann), then your front axles will effectively suffer from toe-out in turns. The effect will be the opposite; it will visibly add unintended negative camber to your front wheels when driving forward and positive camber when driving backwards. I personally refuse to settle for this kind of behaviour. As for the theoratical part: If you would decide to make one of the rear axles steered, then it needs a smaller steering angle (as Jeroen Ottens already pointed out), but also a bigger pivot offset.
  15. Makes me curious. Do you know which one exactly?
  16. If've been intrigued by the MAZ 537 rear axles lately. A double wishbone setup for each of the 4 rear wheels combined with a suspension equalizer (bogie) on each side. No springs or shockabsorbers involved. Also quite uncommon I think. I'm currently trying to build this.
  17. To be honest, the term SUV supercar sounds a bit controversial to me. However, there are examples that come close, like for instance the Lamborghini Urus, but I doubt whether such cars would use portal hubs. Still I like the ground clearance that you have. I would love to see someone building an AWD supercar with substantial ground clearance - and preferably a little bit more than the usual 1-stud suspension travel. The Lamborghini-based Italdesign Parcours is one of my favourites. It comes with adjustable ground clearance. Anyway. I'd say, get rid of the portal hubs, but hold on to the ground clearance. Good luck!
  18. Good idea! Would it be an idea to regard this thread as the suggested custom wheel cover collection thread?
  19. You are setting the bar quite high with all the features you have in mind. But if the way you captured the lines of the car will turn out to be a presage for the rest, then this will work out just fine too. I would opt for steering geometry rather than disc brakes, but that's a matter of personal preference. But if the axle doesn't run through the rim entirely, then I think you will have to attach the rims to 3 pins (lego hub, 2 belt wheels or similar) to secure the rim properly. I'm affraid attaching the rim only to the axle will allow the rim to slide off the axle quite easily - or the new rims must fit very tightly. Now how do you plan to get the brakes around the discs if the rims need to be secured with pins?
  20. Indeed, I wouldn't want positive camber on a supercar. However, maybe Jeroen means progressive camber - also known as - active camber. This is when negative camber is gradually introduced when the suspension is compressed (and positive camber when the suspension is released). Active camber keeps the wheels flat on the ground in turns. This maybe obtained by using a shorter upper wishbone, which is convenient when you also want kingpin inclination. But this has probably already been incorparated in the build as it is now.u EDIT: Seems like Jeroen already replied to the camber issue.
  21. Amazing work, no detail has been left unaddressed. Very clever!
  22. The gears inside the diff can rotate, making the left and right rockers communicate and making the diff itself average out between the rockers. EDIT: @Lipko, I think I misunderstood. You're right, you don't need a normal diff. You can simply regard the body itself as the diff.
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