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Everything posted by Phil B
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Built mine yesterday while watching Jurassic Park with the kids. Here's a picture: As you see, I didn't put the red rubber bands on the front wheels (both sides). First order of the day after building it was to remove the ugly gap between the main cab and the nose. I decided to go with a similar mod as done by Jang, but keeping the grill bricks on the sides intact. Here is how I did my mod, shown in Stud.io as I am waiting for parts to arrive in the right colors (already tested it out in "borrowed" colors on my real-life build). Many thanks to @Sjuip for his LDD file (his post is located here). Here is the unmodified model plus all the extra parts required for this mod: The parts are: 8x Tile Modified 2x2 w 2 Studs in Reddish Brown 2x Tile 1x4 in Reddish Brown 8x Slope 30 1x1x2/3 in Reddish Brown (small cheeseslope) 4x Slope 30 1x2x2/3 in Reddish Brown (double cheeseslope) 4x Tile 1x8 in Dark Bluish Gray 4x Tile 1x3 in Dark Bluish Gray 4x Plate 1x1 in Dark Bluish Gray Modification instructions: 1. Start with removing the roof, taking off the two Tile 2x4 on the side and taking out one Brick modified 1x2x1 2/3 with studs on the side, and one Brick modified 1x1x1 2/3 with studs on the side (optionally you can choose to source these bricks separately and skip to the second part of step 3). Note that this requires a bit more tearing down than shown in the image, but I think you get the idea: 2. Before putting the two Tile 2x4 back in their original place, slide the Brick modified 1x1x1 2/3 with studs on the side over to the trans-black 1x2 brick in the center. This will make the tile sit firmly when it gets placed back. 3. Now place the 2x4 tiles back and disconnect the nose from the main cab. Lift the top tiles and plates from the nose to get access to the 1x3 brick and plate "sandwich": 4. Not fully illustrated, but it should be easy to remove these 1x3 plates and brick with a little pulling and wiggling: 5. Replace them with the 1x2x1 2/3 and 1x1x1 2/3 bricks you removed previously, and put the previously removed tiles back on top: 6. Attach the 1x4 tile in the center, and 2 2x2 Tiles with 2 studs on each side, studs facing out: 7. Cover the studs with the cheeseslopes: 8. Reconnect the nose to the main cab. Notice how the gap has almost completely disappeared (like in Jang's Mod, but without sacrificing a grill brick): 9. To extend the running boards, remove the 1x6 and 1x4 tiles from one side: 10. Replace them with a 1x3 and a 1x8 tile, sticking a 1x1 Plate under the overhanging 1x8 tile: 11. Repeat the running board modification for the other side of the nose, and then repeat the entire process for the other nose. Once done, your Crocodile should look like this: You will have the following leftovers: 4x Plate 1x3 in Black 2x Brick 1x3 in Light Bluish Gray 4x Tile 1x4 in Dark Bluish Gray 4x Tile 1x6 in Dark Bluish Gray Enjoy!
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[moc] New Haven Steamlined I-5 class 4-6-4
Phil B replied to SteamSewnEmpire's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Yes, especially if it is just validating the soundness of a build, as you can go hog-wild with colors. As said, happy to offer that service (@SteamSewnEmpire) -
[moc] New Haven Steamlined I-5 class 4-6-4
Phil B replied to SteamSewnEmpire's topic in LEGO Train Tech
One watchout: The process of designing a good looking steamer in LDD/LDraw/Stud.io is much easier than actually building the model and making it run. More often than not, especially for someone who is just starting (like me), what seemed to fit and look good in a digital model has unexpected issues (binding, curves, clearance, fragility) once built in real bricks. You would either need to be very clear and up-front to potential customers, or have someone build one for you to validate the instructions before putting it out there as paid instructions. But then you'd likely have to share revenue with the test builder. On that note, I'm sure there would be people here who would love to help you test these models. I myself might be interested :) -
Danke!
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"Illegal" is not the right word but I couldn't find a better word. Thanks anyway for your edit.
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Please delete this post. Making false claims is not helping anyone. I understand you don't like resellers, but encouraging illegal actions is not kosher ....
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Now maybe, not at the time I posted.
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Still available at Walmart and Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/LEGO-Crocodile-Locomotive-Building-Enthusiasts/dp/B084ZR9LR9) in the US, if you don't want to backorder on S@H.
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I had a Croc in my cart at 11:55pm EST (the site glitched and gave me an "Add to Cart" button for a split second) but waited until 12:01am to place my order. The promo was not yet even visible on the site, but I went ahead anyway thinking I would call CS in the morning to show them I ordered on 7/1 and should qualify for the promo - I figured the promo would last longer than the train :) I didn't need to call though, because once my order showed up in the Order Status screen about 10 minutes later, it included the promo set. Right now my order is In Warehouse.
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Update: Now on backorder in the US as well, July 17th expected ship date
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Limit 3 in the US, still available at 8am EST. Mine is in warehouse :)
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How about a plate and a 1x4x1 panel? That should give you space for the boiler.
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9v, Power Functions, and Powered Up working together seamlessly
Phil B replied to Mr Hobbles's topic in LEGO Train Tech
That is super clever! Now I regret selling all those Dimensions bases over the last few years :) -
This part might be useful for getting to a better window shape: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=44676&name=Flag 2 x 2 Trapezoid&category=[Flag]#T=S&C=12&O={"color":"12","ss":"US","rpp":"500","iconly":0}
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Make sure you look at the component, not the set, on BrickLink.
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[MOC] Via Rail Canada - The Canadian - LEGO Ideas
Phil B replied to NickLafreniere's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Use the Part Editor that comes with Stud.io.- 38 replies
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I just butcher these: https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/lego-power-functions-extension-wire-8886 At $3 a piece you get 2 connectors, plus VIP points, plus occasionally a free gift set if you buy enough. and if you worry about them losing their original functionality by cutting them, I have put 4-pin connectors in between to create a dynamically interchangeable system for my trains (including some 9V battery block attachments) D7C80323-8908-4014-9856-F96FCDD3D97B by Phil B, on Flickr
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Here is a Ce 6/8 II (left) and a Ce 6/8 III (right). If LEGO built a Ce 6/8 II, they missed the counterweight, the triangular rod, the color over the motor, the ladders at the nose, the box at the nose and the grill at the nose (front and side), plus they have ladders where there are none. If LEGO thought they built a Ce 6/8 II, but used a picture of a Ce 6/8 III, they missed the front step plank and most of the handlebars (yellow on the train above), and technically also the second connecting rod, but the differences are much more subtle. Net, they built a Ce 6/8 III with a few omissions for scale, but called it a Ce 6/8 II :)
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I was just going to post this: LEGO modeled a Ce 6/8 III but called it a Ce 6/8 II (see the sticker on the display plate). *sigh* I posted this pic in the other 10277 thread too - but here is a Ce 6/8 III. Note that the arches over the motor are now in the body color:
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Somebody on the other 10277 topic said that the picture with the triangular connecting rod is from a different version Crocodile. Here is a Crocodile without the triangular connecting rod and the counterweight: According to what I was able to find out, the above is a Ce 6/8 III, and this is what LEGO has modeled, but their plaque says they modeled a Ce 6/8 II, which has the triangular connecting rod and counterweight. Typical LEGO fail :)
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Love the side panel hack. Not a fan of the pantograph mods.
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If you ever want some of that other content, better buy this one too - even if just for the parts. 10277 is a market test - if the response is favorable, they are more likely to produce more AFOL train sets.
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To add to @Rail Co's PSA: Make sure you pick the "right" entry on BrickLink for both the Technic L motor (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb0959c01&idColor=85#T=S&C=85&O={"color":85,"ss":"US","rpp":"500","iconly":0}) and the PoweredUp hub (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=bb0892c01#T=S&C=1&O={"color":1,"ss":"US","rpp":"500","iconly":0}). The official set versions are also on BrickLink but cost about as much as on LEGO.com.
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Thanks Tom - picked up a used PT-1230pc from EBay for $24 shipped, including AC Cord :) From your article it sounds like that's the one you use too.
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@henrysunset Quick Q before I dive into a purchase to enable printing your excellent labels: Are these labels modifiable? If I want to include color information on the labels for example?