Phil B
-
Posts
419 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Everything posted by Phil B
-
VICTORY! Here is the final drivetrain powering this tiny shunter: Stud.io shows the old beveled gear hitting the motor, but in the real build there is a gap. Here is a link to the video above: DB Class V 36 by Phil B, on Flickr
-
Some good and some bad news: The good news: it turned out that all I needed to do was create some more spacing between the drivers and the frame to make things work smoothly. Also, from another thread I picked up the idea to use bicycle inner tube as friction rings and that worked like a charm. The little shunter putters along quite nicely on (non ballasted) straight track and curves. The bad news: it still locks up on ballasted track and on points/switches, especially in the little gap at the tip where the converging track splits off from the main track (there is a little gap there which causes one of the wheels to dip slightly. After much troubleshooting I am quite sure it is because the bottom gears stick out below the frame and one of them catches the track/the ballast and locks up. I have spent the entire evening yesterday trying to come up with alternative gear arrangements but no luck yet. Nice challenge though .... if anyone has any suggestions for inspiration, let me know.
-
Interesting. Thanks for the tips. I've got a few things to try at home tonight - will report back!
-
I saw the new O-ring drivers but figured the jump in price ($18 for 8 medium drivers vs. $6 for 1 medium driver with o-ring) wasn't worth it - I have no issues machining a groove into mine (unlike with LEGO pieces, I don't mind butchering 3rd party products). Traction is only part of my problem though - somehow my driver mechanism stutters and/or locks up with the BBB drivers and the drive rod installed which it didn't do with the stock LEGO wheels (without rods).
-
Do you recall the inner tube size? I am facing the same issue right now and my O-ring solution is not working, so I want to try your tip.
-
Question for you in return, @LEGO Train 12 Volts: Those are BBB Medium drivers on your shunter, correct? Did you make a groove in them to keep that rubber band in place? Mine keep slipping off. I am battling all sorts of propulsion issues right now. It worked great with regular LEGO drivers, but with the BBB drivers I have slipping and skipping issues, the gearing stutters, and when I add the rods it even locks up sometimes, both in a quartered as well as in a “same position” setup. I have tried powering more wheels, and changing the position of the blind around, to no avail. Any tips?
-
That's a great little shunter! I've downloaded the .dat files from www.bigbenbricks.com and installed the Part Designer app that is part of the Stud.io package. Then, in Stud.io, I changed the selector from "Master List" to "Custom Parts", and clicked on the link that allows you to create a new part. This brings up the Part Designer and gives you several options (design new, design based on existing part, import file). Use import file, import the .dat file from BBB. Then, in the connectivity editor, make a round hole and an axle shaped hole and then save the design back into Stud.io. Do this for both the flanged and the blind driver and you have 2 custom parts in your Custom Parts list in Stud.io which you can now use. Didn't take more than a few minutes to do in total.
-
Update: Here are some updated renders from Stud.io. I have now built this in real-life as well but no pics yet as I am missing pieces, don't have the Big Ben Bricks medium drivers yet (they're on their way) and I still have to work on my custom cables. You might notice that the hood is 1 stud longer than before - this looks more prototypical and gives just a tad more space inside. I did validate that the worm-gear drivetrain works ... noisy, slow, but very shunter like. Also, the 9V battery fits inside, which was a relief :) The motor is set horizontally, it is the square-base (4x4) 9V motor 47154. It uses a worm gear drive which makes it slow but it should have lots of torque. Here is a cut-away view of the drive train:
-
In a recent EBay lot I acquired an old red train base 6x16 (4174) and a 9V motor in a clear case. As these were "extras" in the lot, I decided to put them to good use. After some googling I came across the Deutsche Bundesbahn Class V 36 engine, pictured here: I actually used this Roco H0 model as my inspiration: To make this engine using my baseplate and motor, I had to do some selective compression. Here is the Stud.io model: German Shunter DB V 36_8 by Phil B, on Flickr Couple of notes: - PF IR Receiver in the front, 9V motor in the cab (hopefully I can squeeze a conversion cable in there to make it work) - To be powered using a rechargeable 9V battery - like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Batteries-Rechargeable-Li-ion-800mAh-Charger/dp/B07BT4D99D - Uses Big Ben Bricks Medium drivers in Red - Yes, I know, the rear windows are 1 brick too low. Unfortunately I cannot move them any higher without removing structural support for the cab. A few more pics: I might build this one in real life soon - if I do I will be hitting up OKBrickWorks for some custom decals :) Let me know what you think - curious to hear if anyone has any tips on whether my 9V battery solution will work (this is a shunter, with wormgear drive, so I expect it to go slow and I don't expect long battery life, but hopefully I can get 30 minutes runtime from it).
-
The pin on the current bogie plate only fits through 1 plate. If you use 2 plates, it is in a permanently compressed state, which puts stress on the element. Look at the standard train base - the center is only 1 plate high and when a bogie plate is inserted, you cannot place another plate over the holes (as the top of the pin sits in between the studs). As mentioned by others, an alternative is to use 2x2 or 4x4 turntables instead of a bogie plate. The black bogie plate itself is getting more and more expensive on BL, as LEGO stopped producing them a while ago. Note that there are 2 variants of the bogie plate, one with a 5mm pin (4025) and one with a 7mm pin (4092). 4092 is 30+ years old and very hard to find, but the pin DOES fit through 2 plates. That could be an alternative, if you manage to find any.
-
From Wikipedia: Mexico[edit] MV Bali Sea along the CG Railway loads up with Ferrosur trains in Coatzacoalcos CG Railway, connecting the Port of Mobile, Alabama, USA and Coatzacoalcos, Veracruz, Mexico. It is served by the BNSF Railway, Canadian National Railway, CSX Transportation, Kansas City Southern Railway, and the Norfolk Southern Railway.[19]
-
Since you ask ... how about hiding the back part of the loop (the track against the wall) in a city landscape - basically facades that give the impression of a lively city in which this station is situated, with the trains running through the buildings out of sight of spectators?
-
EBay ... managed to get a few incomplete copies of the previous 2 versions of the Hogwarts Express for under $30 shipped each. Not only did this provide me with the windows, it also gave me a ton of other useful bricks for this build. Regarding build files - I am still far away from having a final build, and only once that is done will I go back and update the digital files. Still lots of work needed to make the build strong enough.
-
Getting closer to completing the first carriage! Doors will be of the non-opening but hinged version (I can always remove the roof and manually open the door if needed for display purposes). IMG_0834 by Phil B, on Flickr
-
Alright @Roadmonkeytj :) You asked, we deliver: Presenting a BR Mk1 SO (Second Open) carriage to accompany my First Class and Brake/Luggage carriage from before. I switched back to closed doors with hinges (to create the suggestion of opening doors - the roof will be removable on all my carriages to get access to the interior, so even though opening doors would have been nice, it is not a must. And ..... featuring a bathroom, with toilet, sink and mirror. The toilet bowl placement shows as not being a collision in Stud.io, so I think it'll work, but if it does not, I have some ideas on alternatives. As usual, comments welcome and most appreciated. Hogwarts Express Carriage 7-Second_Class_20191005_4 by Phil B, on Flickr
-
More WIP stuff. Here is a "technology tester" for the luggage/brake carriage. To allow the double doors to be opened, I offset part of the sidewall by half a stud. Unfortunately, that leaves quite the gap, although a plate (later tile) solution seems to help close this gap up. Not sure if I like this version though .... perhaps once the full carriage is built the gap won't be so obvious, but if it stays this obvious I will switch to the non-opening door version, with the hinge plates. Some more shots - note that I used whatever bricks were available, and ran out of 1x1 plates in red so I used modified plates instead.
-
Alright, I did some work on a "Technology Tester" version of the passenger carriage using real bricks. Here are the results: This shows 3 versions of the door: Fixed, Fixed with Hinge, Opening with Hinge. The opening door. It only barely snags when you try to close the door (opening goes smoothly) but I like the look very much. Interior compartment with seated minifig. Seems to work ok. Ignore the rainbow of colors. Doors between carriages. These will either be reddish brown or black in the final model (black would be more prototypical, reddish brown might add more interest). Inside view of the doors. I had to use plates with clips as I ran out of 1x1 plates. IMG_0823 by Phil B, on Flickr Thoughts? Which door version do you prefer? Do you like the change from clear panel (as in the renders) to porthole windows for the doors?
-
Fantastic job replicating a real modern train platform. The sheer size of it is impressive.
-
I think this is very clever and thought-provoking. I like it a lot. Personally, I think there are 3 main options for how to scale cars (and vehicles in general) in LEGO: 1. Single figure seating - this gives 4w-6w cars, and is what TLG has been doing traditionally. Fits minifigs, but cars tend to be high and narrow. 2. Scale to human proportions - your solution above, which looks fantastic, but doesnt fit full minifigs 3. Reimagine how vehicles would look like if designed by minifigs themselves, to the same constraints as human vehicles. You get vehicles like the Ghostbusters cars - way too big compared with buildings, but full figs can sit inside, side-by-side. i am definitely going to try your cars out ... thanks!
-
You definitely deserve a ton of credit for your info! Awesome! The white blind is indeed only used on lavatory windows - perhaps I'll remove that as I continue to tweak my model. I will not add extra doors for the guard's compartment, but adding periscopes is an interesting touch (and who doesn't want to add 2 LBG cheese slopes to a model?). I could theoretically move the break wheel more to the center of the carriage, but then I will not have a lot of space to put the little trunks and other luggage .... perhaps I just leave it where it is and pretend. I don't think I will build an SO, simply because it doesn't seem to feature in the Potter movies and books. I will double up on the CK instead, maybe label one as 2nd class .. I've got the tiles ready for that :)
-
Alright, here is the carriage with the luggage compartment. As I do not have any reference material as to how this should look like inside, I combined some generic wizard luggage with part of an English brake van. Hopefully @ColletArrow has some more insights on how to model this properly :). The double doors will likely not open. The white panels will either be stickered to look like a window, or will become red panels with a white oval sticker on it to turn it into a window. The white is supposed to be a blind. Again, I have both a non-opening and an opening doors version of the carriage - the Real Life build will determine which option I will use. Comment as always MOST appreciated! And here is the full set of carriages: Hogwarts Express Carriages Combined by Phil B, on Flickr
-
Thanks! Is this better? Hogwarts Express Carriage 7-wide_17 by Phil B, on Flickr
-
Yes, engine will be done too. There have been many attempts (by others) documented here, so I should be good doing this "in the brick" first. Will share the full consist once built. Plan is to go 3-axle on the tender (2 for the PF train bogey, plus an extra). Will likely increase the width of the engine, and extend the boiler. I have 3 75955's standing ready (still sealed in box) to use as parts. Also building a larger station. This Christmas will be HP themed - will get a snowy Hogwarts castle (using the official Clock Tower and Great Hall sets) and then this train running round the tree. At least, that's the plan.
-
Couldn't wait until the evening. Apart from deciding which sidewall version to use (without opening doors but looking the best, or with opening doors but looks to be validated IRL and after some stickers), this is THE final digital version of this coach. Major change is regarding the compartments: they are now 4.5 studs wide (previously 4 studs). I have also changed the bottom of the compartment doors to make it look more like a closed wall. Tonight: Brake van and a different coach. Enjoy and please share your comments! Hogwarts Express Final - option 1 - Opening Doors by Phil B, on Flickr Hogwarts Express Final - option 2 - Fixed Doors by Phil B, on Flickr Hogwarts Express Final - Interior by Phil B, on Flickr **EDIT Sep/19/2019** Fixed the last image which now correctly shows the updated interior.
-
Alright, after tonight's modifications: - Doors in the corridor. They even open. I added a closeup of the build. This shows a red version, but I am also considering doing these doors in Reddish Brown or Black (from what I've seen, Black would be prototypical, but rather boring. There are also no windows the door in the prototype version). - Modifications to the carriage doors. I believe they will now open. This would need a bit of stickering to continue the line across the vertical section. I have looked at Stud.io's Part Designer, but haven't used it yet, so you need your imagination. I think that IRL the dark shadows around the vertical SNOT section will not be as prominent as in my render, and hence not as noticeable. I'm pretty close to calling this done. As the change between door styles is fairly easy, I will probably build both versions to see which looks best (and to validate that my modification allows the door to open). Tomorrow's exercise: Building 2 different coach styles - a guard's van and a 1st class car :) Hogwarts Express Carriage 7-wide_opening_doors_20190917_3 by Phil B, on Flickr
