AussieJimbo

The DMU looks great, Andy. Nice start on the doors, seems very promising. To embed the video use the "insert media" button - - at the top of the post editor. :classic:

That's a great looking mini loco. Might have to use some of those ideas My loco still needs some detailing but I'm happy with how the coaches have turned out so far. I might try rounding off the roof with cheese slopes when I can get the parts. Larger Larger http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=61158&view=findpost&p=1146459&hl=&fromsearch=1 You could call the Lego narrow gauge track L(s) gauge, so this would be L(s) scale. :classic:

Amazing model and great work on the video too. :classic:

Fantastic creations, The0. Love the cool little machines and the floating buildings. Great job. :classic:

Wow. Amazed how tall it is. I hope we'll be seeing this at other exhibitions too. BrickExpo Canberra? Flabbergastingly awesome. :classic:

Great work, WarnIcarus. You've captured the look of the bazaar really well and the fountain is very nice. :classic:

Nice work squeezing both the battery box and the receiver into the 2nd car, aawsum and thanks for your comments. Is the motor built into your middle car too? I've kept the 5 cars primarily because I like the look of it that way but also because it still needs the sliding wheel arrangement and articulation of cars 2 & 4 in order to traverse 'S' curves and points correctly. Keen to see pics of other versions to see how they address this. :classic:

Absolutely superb model, very well done with so many clearly thought out and executed details. Fantastic work, maciejd. :classic:

Great stuff, Sava. Very creative. Cool mini versions of familiar trains. Love the tiny Thomas. :classic:

Nice set of bag builds, L@go. The train platform and signal is cool. I like the pickup from the new forest police set too. :classic:

Yeah, I realise that the 9V has less capacity but keeping the weight down is critical for my little train: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=61158&st=15 I also want to take advantage of the space reduction to try to get all the PF bits into a future small scale diesel loco. I'm pondering relocating the little capacitor you can see in mred's pic above. It would save a couple of plates of height if I could shift it to the side of the board rather than having it sticking up in the middle. :classic:

Cheers, bnb, glad you like it. I've just checked a short section made with the straight rail pieces from the red cargo train set and got 22mm gauge so early era rails and ME rails should work fine. I'm actually quite surprised that the other method didn't work out. :classic:

I've been working on my small scale railway over the last few days. Here is the updated train with new coaches and power wagon. Larger Larger Larger Larger Larger Larger Larger Larger Larger As you can see I've MOD'ed the battery box to remove the AAA battery holder part so I can fit in a 9V battery instead of AAA's. The 9V non Lego connector is soldered to the Lego feed wires which had to be unsoldered from the AAA battery terminals. This has reduced the weight from 115 grams when loaded with AAA's to about 70 grams with a 9V battery which is a significant improvement. (A Lego rechargable battery box is supposedly 82 grams by comparison) A less interventionist approach is shown below where the negative from the connector is just attached to the correct spring terminal (top one, hidden side of photo) and the positive is held in place with a little lego "battery". You hide the 9V battery in the next carriage. One of the other things I tried was to build some narrow gauge straight track by sticking regular straights side by side and then concealing the extra rails. Despite appearances this ended up being unsuccessful. It looks fine but the track binds on the carriages. On closer inspection the gauge you achieve with this method is 20mm but the regular black track has a gauge of 22mm. This is enough to make the train run on the flanges instead of the wheels, greatly increasing friction and the train won't move. So apart from use for display, this is not a workable track solution. However the train does run on my loopy test track. Fine with a single carriage and the power wagon, OK with the second carriage but a bit wheel-slippy. What I really need is an easier track with less curves. Might have to get some of those ME rails and see how they go. Comments and suggestions always appreciated. :classic:

ROFL. That's hilarious. I like your design too. :classic:

Finally found the screwdriver I was looking for and it was easy. Didn't have enough purchase with a jewellers screwdriver. :doh: Easing everything apart was a bit tricky but splitting the two dark grey bits helped. Knowing what was inside was useful. :classic:

Thanks, Ed. Very helpful. So the corner screws are just really tight then. I'll have to try harder. I bought a rechargable 9V battery today and the intention is to build a smaller outer cover to hold it, maybe by sectioning and rejoining the original. Cheers. Thanks also for that link, bnb. Creative, if destructive, use of the old AA box :classic:

So I can connect a 9V battery but still take advantage of the control and overload protection provided by the Lego circuitry. I'm not fond of the direct 9V battery to IR receiver solution I've seen before. My goal is to reduce space and weight without risking a burnout of other PF bits. As it is I've just got the wires from a standard non-Lego 9V battery connect connector jammed into the correct positive and negative terminals on the AAA battery holder. That's taken the weight down to 75 grams compared to 115 grams for a loaded AAA battery box. I reckon the grey bit I want to remove is another 10-15 grams but more importantly if I can get rid of it I've got space to put the 9V battery right underneath the switch part and reduce the height by almost 2 bricks. :classic:

Oops, yes that's right. (Too late the change the title.) http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87513 There are four screws in line with the studs on the corners holding it together (from behind in this image) but I just can't seem to shift them. :classic:

I'm trying to take apart the inner piece as described above. :classic:

http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=87513 (correct image/part, sorry JopieK.) Starting with an opened AAA battery box, you take away the dark grey (or red) outer part and you are left with the light grey top part with the switch/PF connector and the dark grey battery holder part. I want to separate the two parts. I thought it would be straight forward as there are four small Phillips head screws at the corners holding it together but I just can't get the screws to budge. Has anyone successfully taken it apart without breaking it? :classic:

Nice job, mred. I prefer the original candy livery for the XPT. Shame our track infrastructure is so poor in this country, it can rarely run at the speeds it's capable of doing. I wished they'd finally bite the bullet and start building a proper high speed train here. :classic:

Nice design, Perry. The black things on the roof are air vents. Not in the UK where brake vans were used instead but they did have them on Canadian railways which also ran some British locomotives and carriages. That's the reasoning I use when my EN is hauling a caboose. :classic:

Great design, mred. One of my favourite Australian locomotive liveries. Look forward to seeing the brick built version. :classic:

Top job, CGH. Looks great. Reminds me of some of the old buses they used to have in Sydney. :classic:

50% off all Cars sets at Myer until COB tomorrow. Picked up Big Bentley and the plane set at Canberra city. :classic: