AussieJimbo

Your layout is going to be great, kyphur. Nice start already. It will be great having the ability to leave a nice big layout set up and accessible for adding models and scenery as it grows and grows. I suggest that when you get to the baseplate stage, you first put down a layer of plywood (secured but removable) overlapping the table joins. Even if you are on a level concrete floor, you will inevitably get some settling somewhere (eg more heavy buildings or scenery on one table) and the extra layer will help counter that. It wouldn't have to be particularly thick ply. I think it's this custom model from blokbricks: http://www.blokbricks.com/contents/en-us/image_viewer.html?lmd=0.000000 It's not bad but unfortunately the way it's designed does not allow you to turn a loco around, just direct it to various tracks. It's cool but technically it's not actually a turntable. I still haven't got my turntable motorised but being able to spin an Emerald Night and tender (or aby loco) around with having to pick it up it really useful. Might have to try out some ideas this weekend. It would be easier if it was up on a nice big table instead of me having to extract it from a corner of my Lego room floor layout to work on it. Oh for the space you have, khypur so I could work on it in situ. :classic:

Thanks, Snapshot. http://dimastero.wordpress.com/2011/03/26/guide-custom-nxt-pf-cables/ Now I've got to decide if I'm ready to sacrifice a couple of cables to make a couple of adaptors. Might buy some spare NXT cables first, I've already got a few PF extension cables. :classic:

Sounds like Arduino has great potential for more realistic train control and other more advanced things like automated signalling, points, level crossings, turntables, etc. What does it take to get started with it? Have you got any recommendations on what to buy, how much it costs, what software you need. Also is there a Lego-only way to drive PF motors/parts from the NXT brick? If not, is there a reliable guide to making an adaptor that won't result in me "bricking" my NXT or killing my motors. :classic:

Thanks for the link, gambort. :classic:

Nice one, Ed. Look forward to seeing the brick built model. :classic:

Oh, I see. Tempting. Cheers. :classic:

Not really understanding your calculations Darkness. 125 Euro is $AU 166 at the moment, plus whatever postage is costing you. Not saying it's a bad deal but it's a bit more expensive than $150. :classic:

Great work, Gerard. Thanks for the videos. :classic:

Great job, alois. Excellent looking tram. :classic:

Great job, Tearloch. It'll run really well with the two motors. :classic:

Thanks very much, Rustie86. I'm looking at some other cranes and unloaders so there could well be a follow-up some time. This could certainly be used for transhipment from narrow gauge (Ls Gauge?) to L gauge trains. Cheers, jaster. Thanks, duq, much appreciated. Yes, alignment is critical and slippage was a problem I had to overcome during the build. If you look inside the cylinder there are a series of orange blocks with black/grey plates which function as cogs. Then there is a rack built on the ramp made from yellow cheese slopes and tiles. (I left the model a bit harlequin to make the mechanics a bit easier to see.) As you can see from the video there is still a small amount of slippage but this arrangement functions reliably and always returns to the start position with a satisfying clunk. That being said I'd be interested in any suggestions for a more elegant solution to this problem that eliminates the slippage completely. Technic chain link might play a role but I've got hardly any at the moment. Also, I'd be interested if anyone has any suggestions for setting up the motor so that it automatically stops at a set position at the top and bottom. At the moment I just have to do that manually with the controller, risking unspooling the winch at the bottom or tearing the machine apart if I wind the cylinder up too far. Thanks again everyone for your feedback. :classic:

Saw them there last Xmas. Their prices for these sets are simply disgraceful. IIRC they want $300 for Falling Water, picked up mine for $US90 from B&N. It's truly disgusting when a company tries to rip off their customers like this. Shame, Kinokuniya, Shame. :classic:

Don't be discouraged, darkdragon. This took several failed attempts before I produced a working model, thanks to the suggestions and encouragement of others. :classic:

I do the same thing. Real life "safe-working" is set up the like this too. Very useful piece. Glad I picked up several of them. :classic:

Cheers, HT. Thanks for posting those narrow gauge links, very useful. Thanks, darkdragon. The two most important things that made it work were Space2310's narrow gauge truck design... ... and the train weight built into the front of the boiler. Without the weight the traction is inadequate and you get a lot of wheel spin. I was lucky to enough to have a single one in my collection (from the City Tower Crane set for a few years back). If you don't have one you could probably get by with making space for some lead sinkers. Weight of some kind is critical as the loco has quite a heavy load to pull given the towed battery box. The rechargeable version is a bit lighter if you have one, I had to make it work with the AAA box. I'm also using the latest clear-banded drive wheels and the mini wheels have had a shot of silicon lubricant. How big a difference these points make is unclear. I might test with other version of the drive wheels but I don't have any mini-wheel sets left to test in their original state. (need a couple more level crossings and one of those parts packs of wheels and axles) I look forward to seeing your train when you've ironed out the kinks. :classic:

Thanks everyone for your comments. Much appreciated. Yes, fully remote controlled. The IR receiver is hidden in the tender. :classic:

Top job, LT12V. I like the complex double piston arrangement. :classic:

Cheers, medib. Glad you like it. :classic:

Thanks, Sokratesz. It's nice to be able to run a LEGO train in such a small space. Cheers, medib. Glad you like it. I think some of the engines are kind to their narrow gauge cousins. I've got more work to do on detailing and I still have some questions in my mind about what overall scale I'm going for. The caboose is a bit out of scale and the little microfigs as passengers for the moment are a touch on the small side too. Kid-figs might be closer but I'm wondering if I should instead treat it like the Romney, Hythe and Dymchurch railway in England which is half scale but designed for normal sized people. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Romney,_Hythe_and_Dymchurch_Railway Down the track I'll have a go at a full size narrow gauge train. :classic:

Thanks, LT. Much appreciated. :classic:

Thanks, roamingstudio. I think the easiest way to turn it into a GBC module would be to build a tub in the cylinder and channel the balls into it directly. The complexity goes up if you want to put the balls into the ore trucks first and then automate loading them into the cylinder. :classic:

Nice one, LT. :classic:

OK, here's the video: Cheers to everyone for the ideas and encouragement that helped make this possible. Paticular thanks to Space2310 for his excellent narrow gauge truck mechanism, which was pointed out by roamingstudio. Feedback and suggestions appreciated. :classic:

My goal of running a train on Alien Conquest track has been achieved. I'll be posting a video shortly. In the mean time you can review the preliminary work here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=60351 :classic:

Cool, I see what you mean. :classic: