Ape Fight

I like both techniques, and have used both with, I think, equal amounts of success or lack of. But, I'm not sure why the consensus seems to be that studded building for Technic is stronger? I think studless, especially when dealing with lots of power, will be much stronger, as you can build in a way where it is physically impossible for a motor to separate pieces. You can't do that with studded, as I've found out with my latest MOC - the body of which is studless, whilst the chassis is traditional studded beams and plates. The two XL motors will crack the chassis cross-rails which hold the gears if the model hits something or changes direction immediately too many times. The chassis is ridiculously reinforced and has no flex in it at all - yet massively geared down XLs can still separate plates holdng the gear beams if you're not careful, as the power of LEGO studs isn't enough to stop them. Studless, with pins, would definitely stop this happening as you can build in such a way that no matter how hard you pull or push in a direction, nothing will loosen or move. But - studded bodywork can look friggin' brilliant if done properly : )

Thanks Lasse However, compared to some of the awesome builders here, I don't think my builds really stand out! Anyway, to the original post - Plenty of a.w.e.s.o.m.e builders DO use studs as well as studless, but I guess it is going out of fashion in the Lego community a bit. I say, help bring studs back!!

Well I build in both. A lot of people say 'too many studs' on my studded models, but one of them definitely looks better 'full-stud' (studs in all directions). I'm not what you call a good builder though, so the opinions of the famous AFOLs carry more weight - e.g Ralph S, who also uses both : )

Thanks DLuders I might get round to making a video. That's a great picture of the original in use ^ - it's one of many pics I used as a reference. The truck looks pretty battered in that pic - not like today's super-clean and shiny transporters.

Thanks No - it doesn't have suspension (too heavy). It has: Opening cabin doors Opening cargo doors Opening tailgate PF drive (thru a Differential) PF Steering (with a Clutch) Detailed 6 seat interior Lowering top deck

Thanks to those on this site who helped answer my queries about Power Functions : ) I've now finished the FIAT 682/RN2 Bartoletti. It's currently running one battery box powering 2 XLs and 1 Medium through 1 IR Receiver, but when it gets some race cars the whole setup will be doubled (except the steering the motor). A couple of pics are below - more on MOCpages at this address: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/278673 Comments welcomed : )

That's brilliant!! I want to see this in a vehicle somehow.

I think you might be eluding to this in your above edit, but a toothed 1x4 brick (like those used on old steering racks) held with a loose grey pin over a gear wheel does the trick. When the gear turns the wrong way the toothed brick locks it. All you need to do is add a gear and the toothed brick to the input shaft - you can even have it built onto the engine so the engine makes a noise as it turns : ) I think I've made the most compact gearbox with forward, neutral and reverse, which can be found here: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/77288.

I like it, and it sure is a challenge re-creating Maj's masterpiece, but sorry, I wouldn't call it a 'MOC' - it's more a 'SEC' (Someone Else's Creation). Good luck with the build though : )

My guess is a fair bit of heat at high rpms

Actually that 'nice, but would be better studless' comment is one I hear a lot about my Sports Car at the top of this page, and is what prompted me to post this topic. Your Jag has a great transition between smooth and studs; it adds a curve where there isn't one. Keep the comments coming - I like hearing what people think about this one. My Rat Rod has had a pretty mixed reaction to the full-stud bodywork; some love it, some say 'too many studs!!'.

That's a great comparison ^ Beautiful models, and the second is definately nicer

Is Old Skool building disappearing? I was wondering, shameless self-promotion aside, what Eurobricks members think of studded building? Two of my MOCs are below, one is normal studs-up, the other full-stud. Is this technique looked down on now? I'm currently building a smooth MOC as it's actually the most efficient way to make it, but I'm wondering whether I should abandon studded building for whatever I make that follows it? Honest opinions very much welcome: Studs Vs Smooth? (I can see a wealth of opportunity for sexual jokes here so thought I'd pre-empt any gutter talk with this sentence). Thanks EuroBrickers Ape http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ApeFight/Rat-Rod/dsc00241_edited.jpg Full Stud - Rat Rod http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/ApeFight/Classic-Convertible/dsc00082_edited.jpg Studs on Top - Classic Sports Car

Apologies if this offends anyone, but I find the whole 'sealed box' thing probably the saddest part of the AFOL community. It's like when people have a classic car in the garage that they never drive - what's the point? If anyone collects sealed LEGO boxes, would you be happy to share your reasoning? I really don't understand!

I'm facing the same challange - I think the only way, as people have stated above, is to have two whole systems on the same channel. I'm running 2 XLs and a Medium motor from one battery box currently, and that's more that Lego says you should. I'll be getting another battery box and 2 more XLs to cope with the weight, but my issue is will I actually need yet another battery box to ensure the Medium motor doesn't drain the power from one battery box quicker than the other, which has no Medium motor attached? I.e. Battery Box no.1 will have 2 XLs and 1 M, Battery Box no.2 wil have 2 XLs only. Can anyone help with this? I don't want 2 XLs to be on lower power than the other 2, as all 4 are for drive

Much much nicer!! I wish they'd do the same over at Bricklink!

I don't think so, it's a pin-type connecter which tends to be a bit smaller than a UJ. However, I can check for certain in about week (I don't have the peices on me at the moment), unless anyone else has them to hand...?

I have the second one - they come with the LEGO (not Technic) large Ferrari F1 car set

[quote name='Perterz' date='17 April 2011 - 05:26 PM' timestamp='1303057617' This is briliant! Definately keep the roof. Will it be posted on MOCpages? Great work

Things made in China can be as good as those anywhere else - it's just a factory location after all. Any new factory will likely start out with a higher tolerance of errors, and they'll decrease this over time. BUT... I have noticed one significant area of quality dropping that has meant my WIP model isn't as good as it could be. I have no idea where the parts I've ordered were made but most were red. The problem is they are different types of red - pinky red, browny red and red red. None of my old pieces ever had any colour variation except through aging (e.g white to beige, blue to greeny-blue). Red was always red. I bought a half price Ferrari F1 car for parts, as well as using PAB, and that model had colour variation almost on the same piece! - Some of the hinges had a different colour left piece to that on the right. In most lights it's not very noticeable, but in some conditions the colour variation is really obvious. When PAB parts are soooo expensive I at least expect the bag of red parts to be red. Almost thought about sending them back.... I may send them a photo (if the variation comes out) to show what I mean. However, despite the above LEGO have made good progress elsewhere. PF motors for example are much much cheaper than the old ones, but way more powerful. Good progress there TLG : )

Hi Alasdair - in this case it's a 1959 FIAT 682 rebodied by Bartoletti for Scuderia Ferrari (in short their race car transporter) : ) You can check out the finished model soon on MOCpages Good luck with your truck!

See the above pics that someone's posted ^^

So did I. Originally it had one XL in the chassis and a free load area / workshop. Now it has two stacked XLs, with room for another two. It's also geared down twice from small to large cogs. I.e: heavy!

Yup! It's not too far off done now too : ) But I'm fiddling about with the power as it just keeps getting heavier and heavier! P.S don't recognise your name here, do you go by anything else on MOCpages / Flickr?

I'm building a large scale (heavy) MOC powered by PF. It currently has; 1 x Medium motor (Steering), 2 x XL motors (Drive), 1 x IR Receiver, and 1 x Battery Box The IR Receiver apparently has an overload function that cuts power to the motor if there is too much strain. This means sometimes you can't steer and drive at the same time. What is the best way of curing this? Is it 2 x Battery Boxes and 2 x IR Receivers, each set to the same frequency but one doing the 'Blue' functions and one doing the 'Red' (which seems a bit weird not using the duel functionality)? Also how much load can a battery box take? Mine is currently powering 3 motors, but I may upgrade to 5 (2 x additonal XL motors). I'm conscious I don't want the battery boxes, if I fit more than 1, powering a different no. of motors if some of those are drive motors - as the batteries will not deplete evenly and eventually some drive motors will be 'carried' by others. Hope that all makes sense - help gratefully received!!