StarWars8Spoiler

I guess I'll be ordering all these online. I already got my hands on The Phantom, just need the rest now.

The cockpit seats one minifig, and the cargo hatch in the back is big enough to hold one of those 2x2x3 cargo crates. If you brought in a minifig's legs and crammed him in there, then I think you'd be fine.

You put it in the wrong subforum.

Again with the 2 month delay on the NA release? That's the second year in a row. What the hell is LEGO doing that for?

Hi Brick Ministry, I used your video as an instruction guide to build the set in LDD, which I then submitted here:

75170 - The Phantom Theme: Star Wars / Star Wars Rebels LXF File (LDD 4.3.10, Brick Version 2248) ERRORS: Most prints unavailable, certain ones have been substituted. Parts 99773 and 32524 cannot attach to anything. It has been left out of the spring missile mechanism and placed apart from it. If anyone can suggest how to add it in there, I will go back and edit the .lxf accordingly.

Tell me how that goes. I'd like to see if it holds up.

That's 14.8 c/p then. That's a damn shame. For such a small set too.

Is the Phantom $40 in the US?

Thank you! Great looking set. Is it really $40 though? That's a huge letdown. Almost 15c/p.

Here's how I constructed the turbines for those interested. I used a 72MM cable to connect the whole turbine together, as using a traditional Technic axle would not allow for using the same angles as this piece allows for. I used a parabolic ring to and clipped each module on as you can see here. However, using just one of these would not have worked, as there would be many gaps in between each red 1x2 bow. Obviously the solution was to make a coherent circle with the 1x2 red bows, so I figured I needed to make a second parabolic ring similar to the first. This is the part that took me a while to get right. This ring is rotated at a 22.5 degree angle so that when connected, the bows all sort of 'interlock' and form a complete circle. And here's what that all looks like with both modules together. The gap in the top right is so that these connect to the rest of the engines without colliding with the rest of the ship's body. It's a consequence of the turbines being slightly larger than 8088. When these are on the model, however, that gap is almost unnoticeable. A 2x2 round plate and a 6x6 dish cap it off and hide the ugly mess inside. The 2x2 is meant to keep the dish in place as it cannot normally connect to the cable. I have no clue how stable this construction method would be in real life.

Thanks!

Loving the micro U-Wing.

To celebrate the release of Rogue One: A Star Wars Story today, I decided to build a 786-piece model of the ARC-170 Starfighter. While it does not actually appear in the movie, it was the Republic's precursor to the iconic X-Wing Starfighter that the Rebel Alliance used in their fleet. It includes three clone pilots and an R4-D5 astromech droid. I used 8088 as a skeleton, but did some major modifications as I will detail throughout the post. Here you can see the model as a whole. At first glance you may not see that much different from 8088 (apart from the engines), but I altered many minor aesthetic and functional components of the ship to make it more accurate and give better play features. The original model had 396 pieces. I almost doubled the part count of the original. Here's a front view. One of my main priorities with this model was to bring the s-foils in closer to the main wing. In the movie, they're flush against it when closed, but 8088 had an unsightly gap between everything. This was as close as I was able to get the s-foils to the main wings. In this side view you can see some of the tapering I attempted to do near the nose. I wanted the dark red to flush better with the stripe that goes back towards the cockpit. You can also see my addition of spring-loaded missiles to the main guns, of which there are also faux blaster tips to try to mask some of the spring missiles' prominence. I also tried to extend part of the underbelly to better connect with the nose as seen on the movie model. Nothing too much back here. Just a knob that when turned opens and closes the s-foils, similar to 8088, however pulling and pushing it operates a different function... In 8088, pushing the knob activated a series of flick-fire missiles. Here, pulling it releases a latch that drops down this gun caddy which is currently holding the pilots's personal weapons. This is securely held in the ship so it doesn't fall out while swooshing. Top-down view. I changed the shaping of the wing-tips to make them more symmetrical as they should be. Here's my personal favorite enhancement. I modified the engines based on thire5's UCS ARC-170 model, but scaled down appropriately. It was a nightmare getting each tile to line up properly and not give me a collision error. I spent a good few hours or so on this part alone. They're slightly larger than the turbines on 8088, but I don't think they're oversized. The internal skeleton of the turbines for those wondering how I did it. If you have any comments or suggestions for how my model could be improved, please share! I'm always looking for constructive criticism! May the Force be with you!

I really wish they made that hairpiece in dark tan. That'd be even more accurate.

It's estimated to be $25 in the U.S. I'm certain the fighter tank is a newer version of 7679 from 2008.

They haven't had Clone Wars style prints since 2014. Clone Wars-based products since then have used normal style prints and molds. I'm certain this set will continue the trend.

I'm actually really excited by the prequel sets we're getting in the summer. The 2005 Vader Transformation was one of my first Star Wars sets, and I'll love to see what 12 years will do to a concept. The Jedi Starfighter and Booster Ring will also be fantastic, as it'll have young Boba AND a new version of Obi-Wan's Delta-7, the first in 15 years. In addition, when we're referencing the Republic fighter tank, are we talking about this one?

The more I see the Duel on Naboo set, the more I'm growing to it. Sure, it could use another curved wall piece, but you can always add those pieces from your own collection to expand on it. It's actually pretty great for a $25 price point.

The 2nd one you made actually looks better than the 2017 official LEGO model. I know the dark tan is a more accurate color, but it looks so bland compared to the reddish brown. I quite prefer the latter.

So today I've been working on an MOC of the Imperial TIE Defender, and I'm nearly finished, but I plan to bricklink this model and build it in real life after the digital render is complete. Right now this is about 835 pieces, but I'm asking the community for help as to how I might potentially stabilize the wing connections. As they are right now, each of the six wings are attached to the middle plate by some clips which are in turn held in their upright position by a series of inverted 1x2 curved slopes. There's no chance of this thing standing on its own if I were to build it with the current design. Despite this, each of the three central plates are securely held to the rotating axis by means of technic pins. So other than what I mentioned does anyone else have any comments or ideas on how I can improve this? Thanks!

My local Target in the USA has the new Battle Packs for sale. I'm stunned to see them this early. I haven't tried purchasing any yet so I have no idea if they're even supposed to be up right now or if it was an error by whomever was stocking the shelves.

inb4 thread locked.

Oh well. We all know how the mods love to be secretive about these matters.

It's just in good fun. Don't be a jerk.