Twelvebears

Agreed, these are far to wide, the Camper ones wil look better

Nice review, thank you. Unfortunately, Sariel's YouTube review shows too many technical limitations with both the gearbox and unsophisticated suspension, for this to be on my must have list. I'd have swapped the fancy Apple-esque box for better suspension geometry and a gearbox that works smoothly.

Personally I think building techniques - SNOT for example - have come such a long way, that I love to see any UCS set where Lego really push the boat out and hit us with something big and around £300-400 If I think about how sophisticated something like the VW Camper is compared to the older VW Beetle, and then take that into a UCS Star Wars theme, we could see something amazing, especially with all the excitement around the reboot. If they did do something big, it's hard to imagine them not making it old of the really iconic ships which are central to the new films, so that kind of has to mean: UCS Falcon UCS X-Wing UCS Star Destroyer I'm keeping shelf space and wallet prepared.

I'd be betting on £300-ish

Any compressed gas cools on expansion - First Law of Thermodynamics. It's just more noticeable on small canisters as the tin cools faster that a large, heavy one. The moisture is just the water in the surrounding air condensing. As a source of dry, pressurised air, a hobby compressor would be the best option if Jim can stand the noise.

I'd return the dish for a refund and build Scottish Dave's Force Awakens style dish. Looks cool and a fraction of the cost. I used black Technic right angles at a fraction of the cost of the original yellow ones, and it really doesn't matter.

If you don't want to be able to move the Falcon and just want to mount it vertically on the wall (which best shows it's unique shape anyway), just do the following: 1. Remove the top and bottom gun turret disks to expose the inner core frame. 2. Make a strong loop of heavy cord/light rope (I used thick guy line) so that is right over the top of the core frame. You can do it so the falcon is at 0/45/90 degrees depending how you locate the loop/ 3. Have the loop just long enough to extend out the bottom to hook over a strong, screw-in masonry anchor with a hook end. 4. Hang the Falcon from the loop and the weight and angle of the rope will pull the landing gear against the wall and it will sit quite securely 5. Replace the top gun turret. Also long as you go OTT with the cord (I used a bit of 100KG Paracord) and a meaty masonry anchor, it will be perfectly secure. Plus it is very easy to left down. The hardest part is having the strength to hold the Falcon vertically with one hand by the top of the core frame while hooking it up. You may have to modify a few panels to get they to stay put while vertical but I found it worked fine.

Loving the outrigger design, looks really robust and actually capable of giving real stability. I could see the same approach scaling up to a larger model very nicely.

I think focusing on the materials alone is missing the point. Sustainability is about longevity and how much of a thing stays in use and not ending up in landfill somewhere. I will bet that just like original Landrovers, there is more Lego still in use than has ever been thrown away. All because of the principle of compatibility through the years.

Actually I've had an exchange with the maker and there are 4 standard pin holes around the axle on the end, so something like Part 87408 could easily be used to create a 'normal' powered through the pivot attachment, like the standard actuators..

Many thanks.

I can't seem to find a working link to the MkIII version anywhere - preferably a PDF or LDD compatible file as I use a Mac. Does anyone have a copy or link? Thanks folks.

All I can say is keep a close eye on you left and right handed wedge orders (either plates or bricks), because I seem to have managed to end up with lop-sided numbers on several of them, which has caused build delays on several occasions. Trouble is the little buggers look some much alike when in a bag together, that it's hard to spot!

Defo agree that keeping tabs on what you have order is the tough part. My build has had several pauses when I've found I either had bits missing where I'd messed up the orders, or ordered too many of something else - the left and right handed slopes, plates and wedges being the main culprits. What I will say is that you can save significant money by using more common parts, particularly on inside, which lets be honest, isn't on view.

I've been rumbling on with my BL'd build, currently up to page 108 of the instructions. The great news is that due to the 'positive influence' of one of SWMBO's friends, who happens to be a massive Star Wars fan, I have secured a permanent wall-mounting home for the Falcon once finished - and yes this is a downstairs, 'public' room (I know, amazing right?). The current snag, and a consequence of a less than perfect inventory process for my 5100+ BL'd parts, is that I've run into two situations where 'build critical' parts have been missing, and I've had to pause an await an order. Nothing rare or expensive (just some 4x3 plates with holes for the landing gear, and 6 2x6 slopes for the entrance gangway door), enough to pause construction. Typically I also managed to order from a BL seller who thinks 10 days to dispatch an order is perfectly fine..... Dammit!

Love it, looks way cooler than a round dish, and from Han's perspective, obviously much more practical for those 'fly sideways through narrow gaps that no one else can fit through' manoeuvres that he is always pulling.

I've done similar things on purpose. Just get a very sharp pointed knife or strong heavy duty needle and lever the axle out from the exposed end. There is enough space to get the point into the groove in the x of the axle and then lever against the edge of the hole in the frame.

Agreed. This is one advantage of the 8878 battery, in that the in-built circuit is quite flexible re the power supply. A simple multi-voltage adapter, with the exchangeable tips is fine. I use one rated up to 1amp, set to 12v and it works perfectly. The battery itself then regulates this down to the voltage and current the cells actually need. Cost about £8 from Amazon

The truck is great but the steering movement of the loader shows what a poor design it is by TLG and how the mini actuator mod is a must! Just imagine the driver being flung around the inside of the cab like a doll if the real loader moved that fast.

I've found they work well as part of a planetary geared hub, and another can be used to brace a beam to produce a shallow but very stiff structure.

I'm just curious to know if folks have particular working styles/techniques and favourite parts that they find they use a lot of when working on a MOC I tend to find that I tinker with various individual elements to refine them and usually build several self-contained sub-structures which I connect together, rather than very interwoven designs. My personal feeling is that this is more like the way real vehicles are constructed, plus it means that some bits, like the planetary geared wheel hubs, often get transferred between builds relatively intact. One off my favourite parts is a Bionical part 50904 which I find really very versatile in technic builds

I like combining both. Studless allows for more compact, complex structures, especially with functions and gears. However using studded beams for chassis rails can produce a far more rigid structure. Using the best of both makes for some really interesting options.

Can you let me know what tyres you used please, and sorry if I've missed it elsewhere in the thread somewhere

I'm working on a Wheeled Loader MOC and these will give a far more scale look than anything available from LEGO Real loader tyres have a very square profile and quite a tall sidewall, and those with the Volvo loader are simple far too small..

I think that sometimes it is easy to forget and underestimate the amazing level of accuracy and strength of Lego parts. This has taken years and $m of R&D, and is only possible because of both the materials and the pressure moulding. I would love us to be in a position to 3D print custom pieces, as some of those proposed here would be fantastic, but for now I think we need to remain realistic about what will be possible for quits some time. http://www.gizmodo.com.au/2013/05/why-3d-printing-is-overhyped-i-should-know-i-do-it-for-a-living/