doug72

I have many of these that have cracked end axle bushes and have tried fixing the crack with ABS liquid glue without success. A simple & cheap way to fix them is to use a loom band wrapped several times around the cracked axle bush to restore its clutch power. Will also work with the older 4L universal joints. In most case the band will not interfere with adjacent parts.

Eight sections of curved track make a 180º turn. A full circle 16 sections with outside diameter 28 inches. You can get a slighty smaller diamenter using flexible track but not ideal. Flex. track mainly used to fill in gaps or if track doesn't line up & is = to 1/4 straight. Straight track is 16 studs long. Switches are 32 studs long = two track straights. That's a very good price for a Lego Track pack. My layout will be going in the attic eventually and the baseboard is just wide emough. ( It used to house my OO gauge train layout - now sold ). I enjoy the challange building the GBC train modules to get them to work reliable with mods etc. My first GBC Train layout was on our dining table and could only just squeeze it on. I used a turntable at one end to reverse the train 180º and a Vee reverser at the other end along with a passing module. You need to use the original type of PF change over switch with small black pole c/o switch for the train units. The new ones have too much friction but can be modified if disassembled & the dedents smoothed off.

I will have ago at making mechanical version of your pneumatic module or adapt my high capacticity vertical lift reverser module, with an extended chute over the track driven via a long lay shaft under the track.

Welcome to the GBC Train Forum. Saw your post on the main Akiyuki GBC Forum, a seperate forum was started as it was difficult to locate GBC Train entries on it. When I first got into building system, I was given good advice by @Jonas to start with the basic modules and get to understand how they function. Then if you like the system and get the bug, you can progress the more advanced ones. You will soon discover you will need a lot of parts and a layout can take up a lot of space. My set up will be more linear using Vee reversers or turntables. I would suggest to start with Two Type 2 trains / Loader / Unloader to get a basic working system working. I started this way and then added a passing module to allow two trains to run, before progressing to more complex modules. The Elevator & Rotary Dumper are the most complex parts of the system and require a lot of parts. Plain track and switches can be obtained from Lego, or other on line sellers, such as Bricklink, Brickowl, Ebay, Amazone. The Elevator / Dumper requires a double cross over. The Lego one is no longer made, is hard to find and very expensive. We used the 3D printed basic version by TrixBrix at a much lower price and does not require any modification. Answers for most questions & queries can be found in the forum but any problems just ask, myself & contributors are always willing to help. The BWE has plenty of usefull parts including 14 curved gear racks. The improved Rotary dumper requires 16 pce. Doug72

More Teal !!

Build now completed and has been frustrating at times due to missing small parts, misplaced parts package # !1(found) and finding my fingers are not as nimble as they used to be. At some stages it was hard to get pins etc. aligned when putting a sub unit into place. All functions tested and performing OK but on a real crane hoisting, luffing & extending boom can be done simultaneously. I have made a modification to allow all these functions to work independently. It can be installed with only a small strip down of red RH side panel to enable removing the 8L axle with stop for the change over levers. MOD tested and works well. Downside of this model its HOG for steering and drive. Probably can be achieved by removing the dummy 8 cylinder engine for wheel drive and use an X motor but steering more problematic & use existing battery PF socket with a PF switch for direction control. Selector box MOD:- changes made in situ without removing the 5 x 7 frame. Images show how arranged.

If you haven't got those parts, use two 5L beams instead of the thin beams.

I use to have this problem but solved it using two of these, LEGO Beam 4 with Ball Cup Socket (15459 / 31794) I found the stepped arrangement of the stacked thin beams allowed the wheels to drop into the gap. Os train exits the beam4 with cup supports the rear of the train until the rear train wheels are over the end of the track. The front of the train rides up over the rounded ends better than the stepped arrangement.

The last bag shown (without code number) was inside one of the larger bags. The other smaller bag was loose.

Check out the first post in this thread with the review by Jim, it shows all the packages laid out but not in order. There should be two large 11 bags & a small one about 5” x 3”. I still had some other small parts, axles & connector pins missing from other bags, which I replaced from my parts stock. If more than one bag per stage should 11- 1 of-3 / 11-2 of 3 / 11- 3 of 3 or A,B,C

Fantastic build, GBC =Giant Ball Machine !!

Missing parts mystery solved !!! Checked through the next stage for building the boom amd many more lots of parts apparently missing & concluded there must be a small package missing. Tipped out main box that still had packages for stages 12 & 13 inside and finally found a small no. 11 package tucked under a box flap. So for stage 11 there are 3 packages. Perhaps Lego should include an inventry of the number of packages there should be for each stage. Not all people would have access to Jim's review.

Main Box & internal box were sealed and all packages inside un-opened, Purchased from Amazone UK by my daughter at a very good price.

Received this at Christmas from my family and currently building it and have reached the stage for building the crane boom. During the build so far I have come across several instances of missing parts mainly small items & connector pins. All parts packages opened and ensured all contents removed before re-cycling the plastic bags. As I have a good parts inventory I could quickly replaced the missing parts rather than have the hassle of ordering from Lego at this time of year. I expect LEGO is being inundated with requests for replacements for missing, so completing this Flagship Model will be delayed. I can imagine anyone trying to building this with only the parts supplied in the box will be very frustrating, disappointed and wondering why. There have been reports of incorrect motor (M instead of L), whole package missing (No. 11) and missing small parts. Also some aspects of the build are unusual for Technic: There are aslo a number of odd issues using blue pin/axle where a 2L pin would normally be used. Many of the 6055630 connectors with two pins and hole could replaced by plain black 3L beam with 3 x 2L pins. At step 845 page 121 book 2 Just discovered eight pce. 4 x 1 red tiles for the boom are missing !!, replaced from my stock. This is not good enough for a expensive model and shall be complaining to Lego.

To avoid using two LEGO Beam 3m Ø4.85 with fork (87408) due to limited stock I have devised an alternative solution using double bevel gears - see images. The gear train gives 3 sec rotation. Both my T/Ts converted and working smoothly.

Good video & explanation. If you want to slow the turntables down a little bit, change the gear ratio on the axle that drives the turntable 12T gear to 12:20 step down to give approx 3 secs, per reversal. Now tested with revised gear ratio and works well & smooth rotation. Re Train car: Note you have the 3 part axle between the wheel axles, changing it to a 9L axle reduces friction. ( just seen @Berthil reply re 9L axle and no reversing switch ) Also like the mounting pins for the battery box, always find it a fiddle when changing batteries, will see if can be done on the standard train with reversing switch. How will this be used for your display ? I find it very satifying how GBC modules evolve with ideas from contributers.

After further prolonged testing of both versions back to back your geared version is more reliable and never failed even with a full load The belt seems to snatch as the train engages with the 24T drive gear, causing the rubber band to stretch & then recover causing a jolt which throws the train off. Probably OK at the slower speed.

It takes approx 2 secs to rotate 180º. Rotation seems a lot smoother than the worm drive version. Now tested both versions (Geared & Rubber band) back to back and the geared version is slightly faster than the belt driven version, probably due to belt slipping.

Looking at the GIF I thought you had used a gear solution and I like your use of a pin/ball instead of blue axle /pin is better for the stopper. The advantage of a geared system is it is not easy to accidently knock the T/T out of alignment by external force. I tried to use a gear solition but couldn't get it to fit, the back to back frames work well. So instead I just used a second large wedge pully with a ordinary rubber band for the longer belt drive, to give the required 1:1 drive. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Also I have made a small change which improves the track alignment between the turntable and exit track. (LEGO Rim Narrow Ø18 x 7 and Pin Hole with Shallow Spokes (13971 / 56902) changed for a small wheel with groove and rubber tire (LEGO Wheel Hub Ø11.2 x 8 with Centre Groove (42610) Has also been tested when loaded with 30 balls.

Not sure how @Great Ball Pit has done this but I have modified both my T/Ts to get same speed and proved reliable. I'll let @Great Ball Pit post his video first as it seems diffferent to my rendition. Credit to @Jonas for the original T/T idea.

Think I know how you did it. We will have to call this the Supersonic version !! I timed it at 2 secs per 180º turn. Fit a propellor and it could be entered into the TC 15 contest !

Which version will you use, worm or belt driven ? Look forward to seeing your set up in action.

Belt driven Fast GBC Train Turntable When I shot the video both turntables worked perfectly but further testing revealed that the Red T/T using belt drive tended to over shoot and derail the train as it exited. With more rotational speed comes greater inertia. Solution: An easy fix - just two blue pin/axle connectors required - inserted in the two 5L beams in centre of the track to give a positive rotation stop. The roller on the catch arm hits the large fixed wheel & the blue pin aligning the T/T track exactly with the rail track. The racks also altered 1L apart to sit evenly between the train wheel 8T gears. Exit is now much smoother and side guide beams no longer required. Speed is 5secs / 180º turn

Simple Ultra Fast GBC Train Turntable - Video Belt driven with a 12T single bevel gear engaging with the Z60 turntable. Speed = 5 secs per 180º rotation with 30 balls in the hopper. Note: The two blue pins are just temporary stops for testing rotation speed. Now built and tested - see video below. Yellow T/T = 7 secs per 180º turn Red T/T = 5 secs per 180º turn Rubber belt and wedge wheels could be replaced by small chain and spur gears. If used back to back as per video you need to get the position of each T/T correct so they rotate without jamming.

Hope that will be fast enough for you, tried to get a 1:2 step up but would need a complete re-build to achieve that. Had a few problems when some trains - facing in one direct tended to drop into the gap between T/T and track, now fitted improved guide beams as shown. The two 5L beams in centre of track were in wrong position, now fixed.