doug72

Yes I retired in 2001. Crane Loader build is a case of two steps forward one step back as each stage of the build is reached. I am trying to modify the the original Akiyuki module to use a Type 2 train and as I don't have many studded bricks convert it to studless construction. It can be frustrating to getting a solution but rewarding when you do succeed. I enjoy finding solutions to problems. As an ex ships chief engineer I have had plenty of practise.

MGBC Train Crane loader - WIP - MOD. Stage 1 Completed:- I am relatively satisfied with the studless framing and supports. Its still quite a long module but It may prove possible to shorten the overall length and only use three support towers once position of the train reverser and loading station are determined. Trolley arrangement for the chain runs OK. Lift hoist trolley some work still to complete to connect it to the chain trolly. Counterweight to adjust to match the weight of the hopper & balls.

The PF switch cable connects to the battery box. The Motor cable connects to the PF switch. You have to route both cables so they don't foul the trip beam or the 3L levers that move the PF switch.

When I made the original modified rotary dumper & elavator modules I only had enough 4L gear racks to make a low height version of the elevator so it had to match the rotary dumper. Later others built theirs to meet the GBC regulations regarding height & ball rate. When I modified the original Akiyuki elevator module to make it simpler & more reliable by using a worm gear in the drive system I kept it the same height as before. Its easier to build in 4L steps with the racks up to the level where the train departs to the dumper. The structure above that is only for the counterweight system.

The Rotary Dumper instructions follow my original modification but with changes to the supporting structure. Many have now been built following the instructions made by @dunes & @Courbet The Elevator instructions have had various changes made using the worm drive and counterweights system. The one developed by @Berthil was changed back to gear drive to meet the ball rate he required for Lego event shows. One thing you will quickly learn is that Train GBC modules consume a lot of parts - 4L racks in particular plus some less common parts. I am currently attempting to build a shorter less complicated version of the Akiyuki Crane module but progress stalled at present awaiting more chain links. As I learnt with the elevator modification, the Japanese tend to like over complicated constructions - simple is often more reliable. GBC building can be frustrating at times, complex and challenging but ultimately rewarding. Good luck with your builds and - any problems just ask. Doug72

Not at the moment but info on this website might help. http://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm Did a quick calculation & at 9v an L motor should last 60% compared to an M motor time. At 9 volts L motor = 4.41 watts & M motor = 2.79 watts.

Thanks @alanburchill for the video, and the mention of who modified the rotary dumper. A few hiccups with the passing loop module - I too had problems with it failing until improved by using the @Berthil mod. I have found that the long trip beams on the trains can be a problem due to droop & have now shortened mine to 11L. I wish there were such shows in the UK somewhere close to where live near Newcastle Upon Tyne !

Akiyuki train module with crane Currently exploring ideas for a more compact & simpler version of this using a type 2 train with L motor and remainder built using mainly studless components. This module appears to suffer from lack of power & friction when using a type 1 train with M motor. @9v system has found a solution by modifying the type 1 train using an L motor. I have now found a video by @Blakbird which uses an additional separate L motor which is powered when the train arrives and hits a separate PF switch. When the train is released the PF switch stops the L motor. The train & separate L motor appear to be directly connected for traversing the loading transfer system. Not clear if they are hard coupled or if not how they stay in sync. The train just seems to be controlling the loading cycle via the reversing module. This goes against the concept of the train powering the modules as it arrives at each one. Question: Is this acceptable or is the @9v system solution better. =================================================== Currently I have built a test rig to try out different chain types as feel the small lego chain could fail under heavy load. Has anyone had problems using this type of chain ? Large chain links work but are too wide at 5L. The old style large chain links with 2 studs are stronger but requires using the old type cog gears. Thoughts and ideas welcome.

Re Lisbon Mono Rail Steam Tram: For more info see this website: http://www.douglas-self.com/MUSEUM/LOCOLOCO/lisbontramway/lisbontramway.htm The large wheels drive the train - the small wheels guide the train along the mono rail. In later versions the center guide rail was set flush into the road. The Lisbon Steam Tram was a 1-1-2-1-1 configuration.

Correct should be as in photo.

Has anyone noticed what’s wrong with this construction ?

Still available from Smyths Toys in the Uk @ £179.99 at a few stores.

Small improvement for L motor type train: See image - a gap made to allow the L motor cable to pass through and lie flat below battery box. A 3/4 pin is required to locate the battery box as a full pin would crush the cable. 2nd train now converted and tested OK. Correction: 1/2 pin should be 3/4 pin

I don't use single use batteries anymore - too expensive. I use rechargable batteries in all my Train units plus computer keyboard / mouse etc. Lidl have good low price rechargable batteries along with a fast battery charger that can charge 6 at a time. I will convert another train to an L motor and use them on the elevator / dumper section. M motor trains used on the remainder less demanding sections when I put a layout together.

Just tested the L motor train MOC with my Elevator/ Dumper modules and a big improvement in raising / lowering speed for the elevator which now is 8 secs up & 8 secs down. Rotary dumper is also much faster.

Thanks. I tried once before to fit an L motor but gave up as thought it was impossible. 2nd attempt: Took a lot of trial & error to finally fit it. Securing the non drive end of the L motor was the difficult part. The trip bar cross rod mod can also be applied to M motor version by removing two black pins to allow the 10L axle to pass through. Tested on scissors lift MOC & speed is much better. Now added to list of MOCs and improvements on Page 1

Images below show how the L motor is installed and the improved trip bar cross rod. The cross rod now better supported and no longer droops. If more info required please ask.

The image shows a type 1 train which only works on Akiyuki's original sysyem and does not need any PF switch -its mechanical reveresed. Type 2 uses a PF switch which if you have them the old type with the small balck pole revereser switch is best but now becoming hard to find. I am expecting one I ordered recently in the post today. @Berthil mod does work but take care - I managed to destroy one when dis-assembling by cutting the wrong part off !!!!! I am posting some more images soon of my Type 2 Train mod with L mod shortly. Unfortunatly Flicka (Yahoo) have just changed their log in procedure and I am unable to log in at the moment. Sorted - set up a new account, easy than trying to log on the old way. Doug

Yes, see page 1 of this topic for more info about this

Dodgy means, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

Type 2 Train with L motor - SUCCESS Now managed to install an L motor into a Type 2 Train. Its quite a squeeze but now tested and working OK. Only just fits between the two 12T bevel gears as it is 1L longer than an M motor. Biggest challenge was mounting the L motor onto the under frame due to the bulge in the motor body but I finally found a way. The 9L axle linking the bevel gears to each axle, is supported by two LEGO Technic Beam 1 Hole with 2 Axles 180° (27940) The mounting the PF switch is the same as per original. Due to the way the battery box is mounted the there was no room to put the original cross rod for the trip bars at the non switch end, but finally found a way to achieve it. Also prevents the trip bars from drooping. It is now moves much smoother than before. Trip bars are 11L but 13L will also work. I had to use a dodgy PF switch which often failed to fully shift the switch in one direction. But now working OK with the improve trip bars. Train now more powewrful and approx 10% faster. Note: PF switches this are now very hard to find and not all sellers aware of the different types. Side view: Underside: Close up of underside: End view of switch end: Other end view: I will make a short video tomorrow along with some dis-assembled views.

Thanks, I'll put my thinking cap on !!

Thanks for the reply, could you post some images of your modication of the type 1 train. I will try again to see if its possible to MOD a type 2 train.

Someone asked about this before. I to saw an image but can't locate it now or find out anything more, including instructions. I have tried to fit one into a type 2 train without success, an l motor is too long to fit in the wheelbase or it fouls the battery box. Maybe there is a solution yet to be found.