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bonox

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by bonox

  1. bonox
    an 1985 then 1988 2L SX Liftback. Was interesting to note the little details that changed in the 3 years between the same model. Looked the same, but little things were different, like adding drainage channels around the rear lift struts to stop them rusting. The later one wasn't advertised as having significantly more power, but it would climb a hill in top gear at 110km/h that the previous one would only do in 4th. My next door neighbour was a toyota factory mechanic and had a 1992 GT4 which I was quite envious of, except that he was always working on it and said it was a bit of a dog if you wanted a daily driver without access to cheap factory spares.
  2. bonox
    that's a fabulous recreation of a car i used to own. A funny stumpy sort of thing compared to the Celica i replaced it with, but it was an absolute go cart that would put smiles on your face whenever you found a twisty road. Thanks for sharing.
  3. bonox
    excellent seeing models made with mindstorms motors.
  4. bonox
    That''s fine - just don't complain when the parts weld themselves together. The only other way to get around it is to make the parts (piston and bore) so loose that you won't have much if any compression at low speed. For what it's worth, the start of this almost exactly parallels your description in the first post of the seizing of two parts at high speed with inadequate lubrication. (gets harder to spin, slows down etc etc) This last longer because it's rolling rather than sliding like the piston in the cylinder but the concept is still the same.
  5. bonox
    there's a reason all high speed moving parts in this world are lubricated and also why "oil-less" compressors don't last all that long. Lubrication isn't just about making parts slide across one another easily - it's also about removing heat, to either keep the dimensions of the parts in spec or to stop the lubricant itself from disintegrating. For amusement and learning though, hit youtube for "stir friction welding" as that's effectively what you're doing to those poor cylinders.
  6. bonox
    perhaps it's simpler if you understand that databases don't call out new elements, people call out new elements. One of the things people like is to be able to put sets together. If you have a set that requires a certain printed part, then you need to uniquely identify that part rather than just the underlying part shape/colour without the print. That applies whether you're TLG or a seller on a 3rd party site.
  7. bonox
    I don't have your tow truck in white, but I do have the original 5571 in white and think it looks great. Just need a door sticker :D
  8. bonox
    Probably a good time to say Thankyou Andrea for a beautiful model. I'm sure there are many more out there than you think, including one being built by this nutter (me) at a LUG show :) Didn't quite get it finished in one go.
  9. bonox
    hopefully it's just an old stock problem
  10. bonox
    if i've got parts, i'll build combination of real and virtual. If I have new ideas and don't have the parts, i'll use the digital model to work out what to buy, but I don't always get it right first time in the virtual. Some of the tools in stud.io are helpful in this regard, for example finding things that have limited support. (attached by one stud for example is a useful tool). When building for real and finding things that need to be changed, remodelling the digital model is called 'red pen markups' in the old terminology and can be a bug bear, but needs to be done if you want to follow later or share.
  11. bonox
    very impressive. The scale is certainly slightly intimidating, but it's really nice to see people tackling the stuff that most people don't with the big cranes - the extended jibs and the Y guy arrrangements. Bravo Sir.
  12. bonox
  13. bonox
    I get the theory, but the (fake) photo shows a stud too big to do that - it's the diameter of the stop ring, not the stud. And I don't need any fingers to count the places where that would be the only solution
  14. bonox
    more to the point though, what would you use it for? It serves no purpose I can see
  15. bonox
    i'm not sure there are any - they were incorporated into the instructions for sets that included them, so try looking for those. It's essentially make sure the transmitter is assigned the same channel (from 1 to 4) as the receiver you're trying to control, then move the controls. If you want it to keep going, or want graduated speed control, use the train controller.
  16. bonox
    Very novel car shape - great rendition mate.
  17. bonox
    What lovely memories of my '71 IIA. The coloured knobs on the levers triggered thoughts of lots of fun times. Mine were much more faded though. I too would love to invest in your instructions if you choose to make them. Great model; well done!
  18. bonox
    join a lug, scour second hand ads, put out wanted ads, buy from aftermarket (ebay, bricklink, brickowl) or just plain buy from the factory.
  19. bonox
    you need an electric pulse. An old lawn mower breaking points style magneto will have about 6-8 volts on the primary side and via a coil, comes out at 300-500V to fire the spark plug. You could generate pulses with a small timer circuit and a battery or just a hand switch if you don't need speed, but you're going to need a coil to step up the voltage to your pair of wires. I should add that a general purpose spark ignition engine commonly has about 15000 volts on the secondary side of the coil. more compression tends to need higher energy impulses.
  20. bonox
    man, that's really cool :D
  21. bonox
    does it do the same thing if you use the train controller and wind it back from the problem side?
  22. bonox
    I can already hear a legion of fans reverse engineering it....
  23. bonox
    the picture shows a configuration that does allow the ends of thepin to "expand back", meaning the build is "in system" and will have no longer term issues if the picture doesn't make sense in your head, try building it.
  24. bonox
    any luck with the factory response? Response from LEGO SHOP 17 November 2017 Jordan, Consumer Services There is a fix for this! If the motor is not returning to center it is because it has been told that a new direction is actually center. To fix this it is important that the output is center positioned – this is indicated when the 4 dots at the output are aligned. To set the Servo in center position, connect it to an output with power ON but no control (for example on an IR Receiver that is turned ON). I hope this helps you get back to building!
  25. bonox
    given the thread title, I was expecting to see something like this
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