mostlytechnic

Cool, that's what I was assuming. I went ahead last night on that assumption and modified my code to have the option of extra address space or not. Today hopefully I'll have time to actually get out the hardware and try it :)

Ok... I'm using an Arduino (not NXT) to control, so my code is different. But quick question: To activate the extra address space, you use the extended mode command with the function nibble set to 0110 (toggle extra address space). Now, is that channel-specific? For example, if I send that toggle with the command set to channel 1, any receivers set to channel 2 would stay in normal space? I'm not at home to test it at the moment (and not sure when I'll get a chance...) To set a full set of 4 receivers (ie all 4 channels) to extra space you'd send the command 4x, once with each channel?

Thanks for the correction - I'll have to go back and re-read it again for about the gagilionth time.

very very nice tunnel entrance there... Might have to steal shamelessly copy be highly inspired by that myself...

THANK YOU for that info on the extra channels. I've even READ the protocol and somehow missed that ability. Totally going to use it for my arduino-controlled train remote, so then I'd still be able to use normal remotes to control another bunch of stuff :) edit: re-read the protocol... You don't actually get 8 more outputs this way. You get 4 plus 4 "sort-of" outputs. Basically on each of the 4 new channels, output A is regular PWM (almost - you can only do speed up, speed down, and brake. No float, no direct setting of the speed like you can on a normal channel. Basically it recreates the speed remote). On output B, you only have forward and float. No reverse, no speed control, no brake. So that'd be good only for turning something on and off - lights, for example. Not running a vehicle or anything else where you need control. So, to use this on my arduino-based train remote, I've got quite a bit of new programming to do. I was only planning to run 3 trains, so this will be enough to handle the trains and leave the full 8 normal outputs for other uses... Now to actually use this though, assuming you want some receivers in extended mode and some in normal, I guess you need to have all the normal ones turned off (or covered) when you send the "go to extended mode" command, and then you can turn on the normal ones, right?

I'm really liking those pillars - simple, but enough to be interesting. Might do something very similar on mine.

Mine was #1 for my store :) However, there was no ticket for the Christmas set 2, although it mentions in the fine print that you can get it. Also, talked to the store mgr last night. He confirmed that there WILL be the pull-off random discount things and all the other BF deals, though he didn't say what those will be.

I guess I should said I BOUGHT about a hundred; there were still dozens left in the store that I was at. I also had checked a couple other targets though and they were all completely out. So just depends on when you got there. First come first serve I guess...

Yep, I got them for 39 cents too. Found about 100 - mostly the helicopter, a bunch of the atlantis diver, and a few ninjagos.

Have: EN (motorized) Maersk (motorized) 7939 Yellow cargo train x2 3677 Red cargo train Lots of extra track and stuff Some MOC cars

Well, is Brick-Friday (Black Friday, aka the day after Thanksgiving) an international event? I'm guessing this particular thing is US only, but I'd think there might be similar other places. I'm assuming it's a national event here - my card says it's at my local store, but the postmark is from Enfield CT. So I'm guessing they printed and mailed these all from headquarters. I am curious though, what the criteria were. I certainly DO spend a ton on Lego... but lots of it is online. I do visit the local store frequently and spend quite a bit though. I'd guess I've spent around $1500 in store and a few thousand online this year. I'd guess they did some type of "sort VIP members by total $$$ spent, then filter for those who spent money in a physical store, and then sort by store" and the top 25 for each store got invites? hehehe... I've currently got about $150 in VIP credit to spend... I'm thinking maybe I'm getting myself a Fire Brigade and some other toys to fill in my train layout...

Got an envelope from Lego in the mail today w/ a fake (plastic) wax seal on the back... inside is a card inviting me as a "most valued VIP member" to a special pre-black Friday sale. Nov 19 my local store will be open in a RSVP, invitation only event an hour early to get all the BF deals w/ no crowd! Limits on the card say 1 guest only, only 1 of the free sets (the second in the pair of small free Christmas sets) per person. One transaction per person, limit of 5 of any item and limit of $5000 (yes, 5 THOUSAND, in pre-discount value) purchase. Also, must be for personal use only. I'm SO gonna be there! Wonder what other brick friday deals they'll have... wonder if they'll have the scratch-off discount cards? I assume so... Now gotta ask them when I RSVP if my 5-year-old son can be my guest and purchase stuff so we can get 2 of the freebies... :)

Yes, very similar to last year's dog. The head is identical, but the legs are a little different. So only a few pieces difference between the two.

Yep, I've been using the heck out of that pdf :) Thankfully, someone else already made a library for arduino with all the code needed, and it supports ALL those PF commands. So I just used the pdf to figure out which modes I wanted to use.

Nope, haven't gotten to that (I know others have) but we'll see down the road. Correct, it's a very small difference. A few inches in stopping distance for my test - I was more curious than anything. I didn't notice though what is pointed out later by FONIX that float leaves it pushable, where brake locks up the motor. That could be useful Yep, that's what the fancy model train stuff does these days. I was actually thinking over the weekend about adding that to my system. It'd be fairly easy to do, just change the software code some. For now I'll get this working, and then I can modify later. That would be cool to have though... although, I'd do it by modifying my controller. The DCC stuff for "real" model trains have the logic in the locomotives themselves for momentum simulation. You pick your desired speed on the controller, it sends that to the train, and then the loco slowly accelerates. You can even pick to simulate different types of trains... a 4 car passenger train would handle much differently than a 100 car coal train.

My experience (target, walmart, toys r us) is that LOTS of people look at and buy lego, and the others just sit there. I honestly don't think I've seen a single person look at the megablocks displays.

Yep, and there's even whole sets of commands in the spec that aren't used. For example, the speed remote (the one w/ dials) doesnt' actually tell the motor how fast to go. It just says "go 1 notch faster." There ARE commands defined that say "go speed 3" which are what I'm using with my custom remote. There's also a mode where it sends 1 command and the receiver tells both red and blue channels to do that same thing. That could be handy for people making bigger things that need lots of power (such as dual-motored locomotives) if the receiver can output more power that way (I think it can, but not sure). I think it's pretty clever of Lego to define all these extra codes and build it into the receivers, even when there's nothing that uses them yet. But if they want, it's there, already built into all the receivers already out in the market. Just needs a new remote to do it. Yep, that red button is my friend. Just stops the train, no matter what is going on. I hit it all the time :)

I'm still working on my custom controller (it's coming along - just waiting on some parts in the mail). As I looked at the PF IR codes, I noticed that there's 2 different stop commands. One is float - basically just stop driving and coast. The other is brake - actually shorts the motor to actively stop it. So then I was curious which is better for trains and how much difference it makes. Whipped up a quick sketch on my arduino to use the two commands. Then I realized that's not needed - the speed remote sends the brake command when you hit the red button. On the other hand, the simple remote does a float when you let go of the lever. Threw a train on some track - Maersk loco with 4 cars, on a simple circle. From full speed, brake stops it in about a quarter of the length of the locomotive. From full speed, float takes about half the length of the loco to stop. So yes, there is a difference, but it's not large. Too bad - I was hoping that float would let the train stop much more slowly. On the other hand, this was a worst-case test. Not a very long train, on a constant tight curve. Full speed on a straight would I suspect show more difference. Anyone else ever looked at this or have any opinions?

JopieK - I got the IR code that I'm using from some of your old links. Then I just built my own main program to handle converting the physical inputs to the commands I wanted sent out. fluffybunny - the Arduino is a hardware board (see arduino.cc). It is programmable and provides a bunch of input and outputs for connecting things to it. In my case, I have the rotary potentiometers from the throttle quadrant and the buttons connected to the inputs of the arduino board, and some IR LEDs setup as outputs. The software that I wrote (and the libraries that I got from jopiek's links) interpret the hardware controls and send out the Lego IR codes that correspond. The trains are unmodified. So for example, if you move lever 1 to the 100% mark, the arduino sends out the Lego PF IR command for "full forward power on channel 1 red" locoworks - you certainly could build the levers out of lego - and I thought about doing that. I'd then have had to buy some potentiometers (pretty cheap), figure out how to mount them to the lego levers (probably lots of hot glue), and then connect them to the arduino board. Certainly all possible, but I wanted something like this instead. Once I've got it sorted out a bit better, I'll be posting more details.

I got my throttle quadrant in the mail over the weekend. I opened it up, and there's not as much room inside as I'd hoped. It's pretty packed. I'll probably end up moving the clamp to the underside (so it can clamp on the edge of a table, with the levers on top of the table, and there's already mounting holes to do that) and attach a small box to the back containing my electronics. Cost - about $30 for the arduino board, $50ish for the throttle quadrant, a few bucks for other parts (IR LEDs, resistors, transistors, etc), and then probably another $20 or so for some connectors and stuff that I'll use to hook everything up. My original plan was to put the LEDs in the box, pointed up to bounce the signal off the ceiling. Not sure that'll be powerful enough to be reliable, and it certainly wouldn't work on a high ceiling (like a train show). So now I'm considering making the LEDs into small boxes that can be mounted on the ceiling or on poles pointed down, with cables connecting them to the control box. I also didn't realize that those 3 buttons under the levers are actually 6 buttons. I'd assumed they were toggle switches, but they're actually 6 buttons. So I'll either have to replace them with switches, make "reverse" require holding a button, or make the software toggle between forward/reverse when you press the button. And I've got 3 buttons to spare now! Maybe make them work servo-controlled switches on the track?

I'm tired of the little dials on the real Lego PF speed remote. I've got big hands and want something nicer for controlling my trains. I spent some time making custom software on an Arduino, and then found hardware to go with it. I'm taking one of these Saitek Throttle Quadrants: ...then ripping out the electronics and USB interface, and adding my own Arduino-based guts. I've got the software working perfectly and the throttle quadrant is ordered, just waiting for it to be delivered. This will provide three nice lever throttle controls, plus switches below to select forward/reverse. I'd love eventually to add another to act as a remote control for powered switches on the layout as well. It'd be simple to do, now that I've got the code written. I'll post more once I've got it fully functional.

I suspect it needs that exact baseplate (white and black, with the color bars at the ends) for the software to accurately recognize it. So far, the baseplate isn't listed on Bricklink. Sure hope they're making an android app of this though - that'd increase their potential users a ton and I know I'd buy one in an instant if they did. I concur w/ pingles though - needs to have multi-user support so multiple people on one device can keep records.

I'm playing with some arduino-based automation for my layout, and tried one of these tiny servos: http://www.sparkfun.com/products/9065 Worked fine, actually. Switched the track (normal, unmodified switch) without too much trouble. It was putting quite a bit of strain on the housing I built around it, so I ended up modifying the track to make it switch easier. Simple mod - pull the bottom plate off the switch. then file down the bumps on the sliding part. You can adjust how much "click" you want the track to have by how much you file down. Now it really switches nicely.

I've gotten the first. It's definitely glued. you can remove the white headpiece and the head itself, but the legs are glued to the magnet and the torso is glued to the legs. this one is kinda annoying - the last magnet I got (last year?) had what looked like a 1x2 plate behind the legs to move the fig forward on the magnet. This one doesn't, but that headcover has a clip on the back for a sword, which means it hits the wall and the fig has to always be slightly bent forward :(

I'd say it's near the end, considering walmart, target, and amazon are all out of stock on it. Think I need to get over to my lego store and get some (no shipping charge that way...)