mostlytechnic

I'm pretty sure these are 3 in a carton. I can get size/weight tonight for you if I remember...

Entry 2 - 4pts Entry 28 - 3pts

I'm guessing that's the 8386 set? http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?S=8386-1 If it's the bigger 8674 I might be interested...

Today at the Lego store I found a pair of white horse with bridle in the PAB wall! And they were free, since I got the free small cup for spending $75 :)

I've been playing around with using my PF-powered Emerald Night and my loco from the 7939 Cargo Train together. Add a ton of cars and they can pull about anything. I use the speed control remote and have the two set to separate channels so I can control individually. I've found that with them both on, they handle any speed variation just fine. Sometimes if I'm way off, one engine or the other will spin wheels, but usually it "just works"

Found a MISB 7996 double crossover track on a random toy website for $25 shipped. Currently it sells for about $75 on Bricklink - now to decide whether to keep or sell :)

Woo - even though I'm doing a review for here, I always love seeing your take on things!

Not yet, but I'm working on it... watch this forum over the next few weeks ;)

10 carriages counts as a train? Here in the US (where trains are mostly used for cargo, little passenger service outside certain runs) trains of 100 cars are not at all uncommon. I live near a hump sort facility and sometimes have to wait at crossings while trains of 50-100 cars go by... and that's in central Ohio, not even out west where the distances to travel are greater.

Yes, mine goes faster than that for sure!

I don't have a video, but want to. Just haven't had time...

I do understand that this is not a good use for the flex system. I can totally see the potential, but this wasn't the place to use it. Currently, used sets of this run about $225-250 US on bricklink for the condition I have (used, no video or box). Truly complete sets w/ box and video are closer to 300, and new sealed sets are $450+. Sorry, but a box and useless video aren't worth the extra cost to me (and I didn't pay anywhere close to $250 for mine, since it was missing a $20 fig and a few other bits.)

I've had the Power Puller on my Bricklink wanted list for quite a while. One popped up for way under the going rate, but missing a couple bits, the box, and the video tape. Not a problem - I ordered it immediately and then had to wait about a month while it crossed the ocean. Before we get to the Lego set though, I'm sure many people don't even know what Tractor Pulling (aka Power Pulling) is. You can read the article on wikipedia here, or just take a look at the youtube video below. Basically, a large tractor pulls a heavy sled down a dirt track as far as it can. If more than one makes it all the way, they add weight and pull again. The tractor that pulls the heaviest weight the farthest wins. Name: Power Puller Set Number: 8457 Pieces: 979 Price: $100 (originally - I can't find a reference to European pricing) Ages: 9+ Minifigs: 1 Technicfig Theme: Technic Year of Release: 2000 Links: Bricklink Peeron Brickset The Technic Power Puller Manual Back in these days, you only got one manual, rather than the multiple books of modern sets. For this manual, they used a nice photo of the power puller popping a wheelie, photoshopping it onto a dirt track with crowded stands behind. Strangely, you can barely see the sled it's pulling at all. The Manual Sure, it's only one book, but it's BIG. I mean 159 pages big! So big they color-coded the bottom corners so you can find things easier in it. Inside the Front Cover Inside the front cover of the manual is this collection of images. There's a nice mix of the set and real scenes of power pulling. Lego apparently sponsored a real tractor to promote Technic back then. The Table of Contents This manual is so big it needs a table of contents to guide you. Since Lego avoids text whenever possible, they made a photographic table of contents. The tractor and sled are obviously the big components, but you also have the various modifications you can make indicated on the right. The colors of the triangles match the color coded corners of the book. A Sample Page Here's one sample page from the manual. It's very clear, and helped by the fact that there's only black and light grey in the set, no dark blue or dark grey to get confused. The background is a subtle brushed metal look, and there insets on yellow of sub-structures that need assembled. Each page has the parts inset in a box with what looks like an old Mac style menu bar on it. The Centerfold After building the tractor and sled, you're greeted with another Photoshopped image of the set in a stadium. The left images show how to reset the weight (battery box) after a run. Those images show engines on the tractor, which haven't been built yet. The main photo correctly shows the tractor bare. It also is correct in showing a large wheelie, since the set indeed wheelies badly if there are no engines installed on the tractor. Gentlemen, Pick Your Engines! Rather than the standard B-model, this set has instructions for three different engine configurations for the tractor. Of course, it's purely cosmetic since they're not actually the power source of the tractor. However, it's nice to have some selection like this. You can build 5 V4 engines, 3 V6s, or a pair of V8s. Modifying the Tractor I just LOVE this part of the manual. Lego is actually trying to teach some basic physics here. They include spare gears in the set so you can swap them out to see what difference it makes. I question their indications of muscles though - the top setup will be slower but have more torque, so I'd think that one would generally be considered "stronger." However, there's an error. It shows the alternate gearing being two 20-tooth double bevel gears. That doesn't fit. The actual instructions following show it correctly - putting the 20-tooth in the tractor and a 12-tooth double bevel on the motor. Adding More Muscle If you have the motor set, you can even add a second motor and battery pack to boost the tractor even further. Again, there are two gearing setups shown. Other Add-Ons At the time this set came out, Lego also offered the Speed Computer, an electronic display and sensor setup that would measure RPMs. The manual includes instructions on how to integrate it into each of the 3 engine variants on the model - I'm not sure why, since the last method attaches it directly to the rear axle and would work for any of the 3 layouts. Adding the Speed Computer Unusually, the instructions for adding the Speed Computer are actual photos rather than the usual drawings. Web Extras Wow, talk about dated. This is actually screenshots from Netscape Navigator on a Mac. Sadly, the lego.com/powerpuller site no longer exists. The Yellow Technic Liftarm, 1x6 Thin For some reason, this is the only set to include this part. 74 sets have included it in other colors, but only the power puller had it in yellow. You do get 8 in this set, but it still makes the part sell for over $1.50 EACH, when you can find them. The Flex System This set is also one of the few to use the old Flex System parts. It's a thin plastic cable that accepts connectors at each end. It's usually routed through an outer tube so that it can move to transfer motion. In this set it's used for the steering linkage rather than the usual axles, gears, and gear racks that we're used to. Flex System Ends Here's the ends of the flex system rod. It goes into the connector and the connector snaps shut around it. Unfortunately, the cable gets brittle with age and can break in the connector, so these parts are getting more rare to find. The Tires Ok, time for the highlight of the set. The Power Puller includes the largest tires Lego ever made. That's a standard 4-wide car, about to be crushed by these massive wheels. Tire Comparison Yes, the Power Puller wheels are large. Shown here are (front to back) a standard Lego wheel, a larger wheel from the 8053 Mobile Crane, the big wheels from the 8297 Off Roader, and the Power Puller wheel. Tire Comparison 2 The Power Puller wheels are especially large in the width dimension. The Driver Back in the day, there were Technic Figures. Sadly, they're not made anymore. This figure is the Power Puller driver, found only in this set. My set came without him, so the replacement figure cost me $20 on Bricklink. The Stig Some say his skin is the same color as his race suit... and that he bends in ways no other person can. All we know is, he's called the Stig's Yellow Cousin. (if you don't get any of that, go online and find video of the excellent British car show Top Gear...) The Driver The Technic figures are very flexible. Every joint is articulated, and most are even ball and socket for extra movement. Oddly, he's got pin holes on his legs. I guess it's no different than minifigs having stud holes on the back of their legs, but they're more noticible here. Building the Puller, Part 1 Nicely, the build begins by making the frame of the tractor. There's obviously the back axle in place (note the lack of differential, since you wouldn't want that in a power puller anyway). The oddly placed red perpendicular joiner up front will have the flex cable routed through it. Building the Puller, Part 2 The drivetrain comes next. The gears here will connect the motor (at the back gear) to the rear axle and forward to the motors. The door rails in the back will support the motor when it's added. One key trick they used is somewhat hard to see. Right in the center of the photo, there's a thick liftarm going vertical with the axle through it. It's actually HANGING on the axle, with the 20 tooth gear attached lower down. That gear engages the gear on the rear axle to make the wheels turn. Basically, this means that when the motor is powering, that liftarm moves and powers the wheels. When the motor turns off, the gears shove the liftarm sideways, disconnecting the motor so the wheels can spin freely. Building the Puller, Part 3 The cockpit comes next. The towball on the steering shaft will connect to one end of the flex cable to push and pull on the steering mechanism up front, once we build it. Building the Puller, Part 4 As usual on the studded constructions, vertical liftarms are pinned to the outside to hold the structure together. Building the Puller, Part 5 It's almost done. The steering is in place, as are the "fenders" and wing. Sadly, that is a giant STAMP (STicker Across Multiple Parts, for those who don't know that acronym) back there - five 4x4 tiles with one big sticker across them. Oh, and see those angle connector 4's holding the edges of the wing up? There's two in the set, and this is the only set to have them in yellow. So like the thin liftarms, if you need these for a MOC, you're looking at at least a dollar each, if you can find any. Building the Puller, Part 6 Ok, back to the serious building. Here is the finished steering mechanism. The flex cable pulls on the side of the cam, moving the front point of it side to side. That shoves the short flex cables sideways, angling the front wheels. Well, at least in theory. Maybe it's because my set is old and well used, but there's a TON of slop in this. The front wheels can move a lot without the steering wheel turning at all, and they can even point in different directions. Building the Puller, Part 7 The tractor, finished. Or at least the manual says so. Yes, it's missing the engines up front, but that's because they're a separate construction later in the manual. All the wheels are on and it's ready to roll. Building the Puller, the Back The 9v motor mounts in the rear. The motor is held in by the two red pins at the bottom, so it's easily removed to modify gearing. Above is the ball for connecting the trailer. Underneath the Tractor From underneath, you can see how simple this build really is. There's lots of open space compared to modern Technic builds. You can also see the swinging arm with the 20 tooth gear - in this photo it's swung off to the side and disengaged. Building the Trailer, Part 1 Like the tractor, the trailer begins by building a frame. Building the Trailer, Part 2 Next a slide unit is constructed. This will slide along the frame and have the battery box mounted on it. Building the Trailer, Part 3 The slide is added to the trailer and the first elastic band goes on. This photo shows the basic function of the trailer: The wheels will attach to the white axles in the front, driving the yellow drum via the gears on this side. That drum will wind up the elastic band, pulling the battery box forward. Later, a second elastic cord will be added in the other direction to create resistance (in a real puller, the front of the trailer slides on the dirt rather than using wheels, so as the weight box moves forward, it gets harder and harder to pull). Building the Trailer, Part 4 The trailer is complete. The battery box has a large sticker showing you how to connect the wire. The hitch at the front is ready to connect to the tractor, and the mudguards are ready to guard against flying mud. Building the V4 Engines, Part 1 The tractor needs some ridiculous motors to be complete, so let's start by building a module with 5 V4 engines. The first step is constructing a gearbox to handle connecting all those engines together. Building the V4 Engines, Part 2 The central gearbox and mounting structure is done. At the back (unseen here) is a gear that mates with the output of the actual motor in the tractor. That rotation comes forward and is distributed out to a pair of axles on each side to drive the V4s. Building the V4 Engines, Part 3 If you've built any other Technic vehicles with piston engines, you'll understand how these are built. The clear blocks aren't seen much anymore, but otherwise it's a basic V4 configuration with a few extra decorations. Building the V4 Engines, Part 4 The V4 setup is complete. The chains on each engine are purely for show. In a real motor they'd be driving a blower on top, but here, they just spin gears to look cool. You can see the gears on the back of the unit - the top gear drives the top engine, while the lower gear drives the other 4. Inside there's a gearing though, which means that the top engine spins at a different speed than the other 4. Finally, a Finished Tractor Mounting the engines to the tractor is simple - slide it in, and then push in a red pin on each side to hold it in place. NOW the tractor looks complete. Tim Allen Would Be Proud The recipe for a tractor pull - minimal frame, huge tires in the back, and as much power up front as you can scrape together. The Complete Tractor, From the Back Like a real tractor, visibility for the driver is poor. He's just going in a straight line, after all. And it's quite likely his front end will be in the air anyway. The Complete Unit The trailer just needs two attachments to be made - the ball up front for the physical connection to the tractor, and the 9v cable to provide electricity to the motor. Then just press the button on the battery box and watch it pull. It's Big When complete, this is a pretty large set. Mr. Minifig there is dwarfed by the tractor - he'd better watch out for the wheels! Building the V6 Engines, Part 1 Time for an engine swap. Instructions are also included for making V6 and V8 setups. First we need to build the gearbox that will be used by both. A row of gears distributes the motion out to whichever engines we attach. Building the V6 Engines, Part 2 The gearbox and upper beam are attached to the tractor at this point, since both the 3x V6 setup and the 2x V8 setup will use them. Building the V6 Engines, Part 3 3 identical V6 engines are built. They're basically the same as the V4s, but with two extra cylinders and therefore longer ribbed tubes on top. The decorative chains are the same. Building the V6 Engines, Part 4 The engines need something to support the front ends, so this module with a STAMP logo panel will hold them up. Building the V6 Engines, Part 5 The three engines attach to the tractor - while still a ridiculous engine setup, it's less busy-looking than the V4s. I think this is my favorite arrangement. Building the V6 Engines, Part 6 The front mount holds the engines up and fills the empty space at the front of the tractor. Building the V8 Engines, Part 1 This engine swap will go faster than the last. The front holder and 3 engines are removed, and the two of the engines add two cylinders each. The top blower decoration stays the same - it no longer covers the full length of the engine though. Building the V8 Engines, Part 2 A new front mount has to be built, since the engines are longer. There's less space to fill so a smaller mount is all we need. Building the V8 Engines, Part 3 The tractor is done. Since the engines aren't as wide, a pair of logo panels are added on the sides of the tractor. Building the V8 Engines, Part 4 This is definitely the least busy-looking of the engine arrangements. The driver can actually mostly see where he's going now. I'm a little surprised that Lego didn't add one more engine setup, with a single V16. I think it would fit, and there's certainly enough parts to make it work. I wonder if that engine just doesn't work in Lego. Some of the Ferrari sets have V12s, but I suspect at some point the crankshaft has trouble holding together since it's so many small parts. My V16 Mod... Ok, I had to try it. I modified the engine into a single V16. It did take a little tweaking, since there aren't enough of the crankshaft centers. I ended up using a 4-axle in the middle, so now my middle cylinders on each side move together rather than alternating all the way down the row. I used some other spare parts to add the Technic signs on the front and side, plus extended the tubing of the blower decoration. I think now I see why Lego didn't include this option. It's not as stable as the others. It's too long to have the gear bracket setups like the other arrangements, so the back end is supported only by the axle. The front only has a couple studs connection, so the whole thing is lightly attached. It works fine, but it's not as sturdy as the official options. The Conclusion This is a very unique set. So many Technic sets are construction equipment, cars, or trucks. This and the Space Shuttle are probably the two most unusual sets Lego's made in the Technic line. Sadly, they made it in typical construction yellow. This would have been a great opportunity to use any color - blue, green, even purple! The functionality of the set is fantastic. They recreated the real vehicle very well, including giving options for fake engines as well as the educational value of changing gear ratios. However, like the real thing, this is a one trick pony. Once you get bored of short straight runs, there's nothing else do to with it (officially that is - of course you can use the parts to make anything you want). There is one part of the set I'm missing. It came with a VHS tape. I honestly have no idea what's on the video, since I've never seen it. Lego even made both NTSC and PAL versions, even though I don't see why Europe would have wanted this set (I think Power Pulling is a strictly American sport, or am I wrong?) These days, I don't even have a video tape player to watch it in. Too bad no one's put it on YouTube! The Ratings Value: 10/10 - At the original $100 price, it's a great value. You get almost 1000 parts, INCLUDING both a battery box and motor. There are also a wide variety of parts, like both studded and studless beams. You also get 4 different sets of wheels! The current value isn't nearly as good, when you're looking at over $200 on Bricklink. I based my rating though on the original price. Design: 8/10 - It's a great recreation of the real-world machine. However, the flex system seems wasted and actually a detriment, since the steering is sloppy (and nearly useless in this vehicle). Playability: 6/10 - It works well for what it is, but there's just limited play value. I suppose if you and a friend each had one and could actually race them it'd be more fun, but after you run a few 6 foot runs (that's about as far as it goes before the battery box is all the way forward and you have to stop it) and swapping the gears around, there's not much else to do. Parts: 9/10 - There's quite a few rare parts in the set, a good variety of normal parts, lots of engine pieces, plus a motor and battery. And you get a Technic Fig! The drawback is the overwhelming use of yellow. Minifigs: 10/10 - This guy is just cool. The racing suit looks great, the helmet is perfect, and the Technic figs are always just a big plus to have. Overall: 6/10 - I REALLY wanted to rate this higher. When I was looking through the instructions online (while waiting for the set to cross the ocean), I was massively excited to finally have this set. There are so many options given in the manual for ways to change things. When I actually built it though, it was a bit of a letdown. The various engine configurations are just cosmetic, the extra motor and speed computer aren't included, and so there's just not that much to do. It's a sweet set and I love seeing Lego make unique machines, but there's just not enough play value here. Additionally, I was excited to have my first set with Flex System parts, but they too were a big letdown. The concept is great, and it'd likely work well on a different vehicle. Here though, it's too sloppy of a steering mechanism. Frankly, the set would be better with fixed wheels in the front than these. It's not like you can steer it while it's running anyway. My Flickr set for this set (to see the images larger)

Yep, a spare black 1x2 door rail here too. Quite a few spares actually, since there were so many bags. I did have an error in my set though - got an extra black slope 45 1x2 but was short a white 1x2 with groove. So my loco currently has a hole since I built it after the containers.

I got some train bases and bogie plates, so I updated these cars. Now with proper rotating bogies at each end, they handle track just fine. This was a very simple swap. The caboose was harder - the pin from the bogie plate came up right into the end doors, so I had to redesign the bogies to work. They actually pivot from the hole closest to the center of the car. Also, while I was at it, I added a black line under the windows, switched to the corrugated look roof, and redid the ends since the ladders can't hang down any more.

For anyone curious, here's some size comparison pics with Emerald Night and the 7939 Cargo Train: I was pleasantly surprised at just how long these are. Course, that perception could have been enhanced because the most recent trains I've built were the tiny cars from the Toy Story train...

Yep, got 2 and 2 PAB cups. Not much good on the wall though, especially since 8 bins were taken with Hero Factory junk :( And a handful of series 4 figs that I haven't opened yet...

Yep, I got the EN maybe a year ago and it came with the 1x1 Technic brick (and was printed in the instructions how to use it, not as a separate sheet).

According to Amazon, it's a discontinued set. I wouldn't count on it being available for much longer, especially with all the new trains coming (Maersk, etc)

If it had PF lights that'd be big on the box. You can mod them in I'm sure, but it won't be included - that'd require the lights adn a battery box.

But 8868 is a classic set, so the collector types will still want it. I've got one, it's fantastic, and very unique (the only set till now to have a motorized compressor, uses pneumatics to rotate the crane, etc) and so I suspect it'll still hold value. There's not all that many still out there after all...

um, nope. You're forgetting the off-road tires like the Power Puller and 8466 sets. These might be the largest ROAD tires though :) The Power Puller tires are around 15L diameter. The 8297 Off-Roader tires are pretty large too, probably 13L or so (don't have them w/ me to measure).

That dynamite is from 2 sets. Each of the Western Train sets has a crate and 4 bundles of boom.

19) Magician, Mime Artist & Tennis Player Entry (Build by CorneliusMurdock) 1 point 25) Crash Dummy, Lifeguard & Race Car Driver Entry (Build by Stardusty) 1 point 26) Diver, Pharaoh & Fisherman Entry (Build by Rolli) 1 point

32) Samurai Warrior Entry (Build by Dannylonglegs) 3 points