MSc Shobaki

Front light part and grille starting to take shape @flickr

We'll see :) the automatic gearbox I'm using will detect the friction in the rear axle and try to overcome it, with an infinite ratio between 1:1 and 3:1. After a testrun, the results will tell me if I should replace it with a turntable diff

Update!! Check Flickr, rear suspension almost done. Front suspension same, waiting for parts!

Yes, I believe they are 8 studs long! ;)

Hahahah! Awesome :)

Check out my Flickr. Just built a mockup of maybe what you are seeking ;)

Whats your plan on the automatic gearbox? How many speeds, the driving functionality etc.. :) The plymouth is indeed beautiful :) go go go! Little update on the project: Yesterday I measured out the approximate size of my model by building a frame and set out positions for the wheels. The model is 85 studs long, 32 wide. Wheel positions are 15 studs from the car front to the center of the front wheels, 51 studs wheel base, 19 studs from rear wheels center to the back :) its gonna be huge!

They can be used for front suspension bridges as well between the lower A-arms, giving a stiff chassis with lots of engine room For the big, grey L-shaped frame, they can be used perfectly for suspension modules, into which you can mount double wishbones, shocks as well as strut towers. My upcoming moc will feature a few of the above pieces... Coming soon

That's true! I just gave you the numbers so that if you decide to bring up the build again, you just go ahead with those wheels. Btw, I think there is a BL store that sells chrome-painted rims that fit in the Unimog tires. Check it out ;) there you have a set of awesome wheels! Status of the project: Due to a LOT of work in my daily job and delay of BL order, I had to set the project aside. I just recieved an order, three more to go which should arrive today or tomorrow. The car will be a 2008 BMW e92 M3. Front suspension is missing 4 important parts, as I get them the suspension will be complete and pictures can be published. The suspension features: Ackermann steering geometry 10 degrees caster angle 2 degrees camber angle Anti-roll bar Full McPherson system Wheel of choice: Unimog tires Model scale: 1:7

Opel corsa tyre ratio Height:Width= 3.4:1 8110 tyre ratio Height:Width= 2.5:1 8448 tyre ratio Height:Width= 2.4:1 Silver Champion racing tyre Height:Width= 1.66:1 The higher the value of the ratio, the more accurate to real life. Ford Shelby rear tyre height: 0.71 m Rear tyre width: 0.285 Gives a ratio of 2,49.... In other words, the Unimog tyre is the best option :D

Exactly, but! Lets take an Opel corsa (Vauxhall) from -99. The car itself is 3.75m with rim size of 13". Tires could be 165/70, giving the wheel diameter total of: 13"+(0.7*0.165)*2 Quick calculation gives: 13" in meters= 0,33m 0.7*0.165*2= 0.231 Total wheel size= 0.33 + 0,231= 0,56m 0.56 / 3.75 ~ 1/7th of the car length is taken up by one tire. The biggest lego tire we have that looks like a normal car tyre is the Unimogs'. 0.943m In lego studs, the tyre is roughly 12 studs. If I want to build an Opel corsa in lego and I want to use the Unimog tyres, my model would get 12*7=84 studs or 65.5cm long. That's impressive! If I want to build it using 8448 tires, the length would be 73 studs or 57cm. For the Unimog tires, the suspension has to feature my setup for the shock absorbers in order to carry the heavy weight and incorporate the full McPherson system

Like I said before, the suspension did not have anything to do with my current project. I have some designs for bigger cars of scale 1:8 or 1:7

..? O.o That is sick as ....... Great model!!!

No that's a front suspension with drive :) as you turn the steering wheel, the upper links pivot around the balls. Sort of an a-arm design but uses two ball joints

I had one idea on how to do something that represents what you are seeking. Check my flickr account, I just uploaded some pics.. PS, they don't have anything to do with my current project! If I'm not mistaken, the shock absorber from that motorbike was not meant to be used as a shock absorber, but to be set in two positions.. Like a ballpoint pen

Awesome car, awesome instructions... I'm lost of words!!!

The only thing I do basically is taking the cylinder apart as well as the 9.5L shock absorber. Then I insert the spring into the cylinder and then assemble back the piston. I wouldn't call this a modification :D

That would indeed be cool. My CVT is sturdy as hell and is almost impossible to stop when powered with an XL-motor... Just imagine the power when coupled with the I-3 :D For shock absorbers, I'm using the big pneumatic cylinders with 9.5L shock absorber springs (hard type) inserted. See my second post.

I would say that the current clutch gearboxes, the ones from 8880, 8448 etc. are not really reliable as they do not handle torque very well. I believe that an automatic transmission without clutches would be the best choice. I am currently optimizing my auto CVT transmission to be coupled with my I-3. If it becomes a success, I will share BI for it. As of now, I'm almost done with the front axle (pics on Sunday), I just need to figure out how to connect the anti-roll bar to the struts

What transmission are you looking for? Are we talking about a manual, sequential or automatic? My main problem with building a car with transversally mounted inline-3 and transmission is the width of the car, it becomes too large or it will need an engine space of 15 studs. We'll see how it goes

@I_Igor: That car looked so nice. Only by judging the images, I can point out a stiff chassis. Long time ago, I used to like to build with studded parts due to their stiffness and multifunctional mounting possibilities. However, since I'm looking for a bigger design challenge, I'm going studless as long as I can until I need studded parts for the sake of higher stiffness and bracing. As for the engine, I have my LPE I-3 assembled and it runs smooth and revs all nicely like it should. If I change my mind later on and decide to go for V8, I still have 10 cylinders left to build it with without the need of taking the I-3 apart.

That is indeed true, BUT, unfortunately the scale of Sheepos car is not suitable for a V8 engine. More importantly, the 8448 wheels are too small for a V8 engine What do you think, should I build a new Ford Shelby GT featuring a V8 engine or do you want me to build a BMW M3 with V8 or I-3? The choice is yours!

Yes, in most cases RC motors are way better than XL-motors. They feature better torque as well as rpm. The downpart of RC motors is that they've become rare and therefore are high in price to buy. If you are lucky and do own a pair, go ahead! You just need an extension cable to convert the wire into PF (RC----ext----PF BB).

That's great!! I've seen that video before and I really liked what I saw. During my weekdays, I don't or rarely find time to build lego since I work full-time as a mechanical engineer. However, I should have some news by this Sunday. Here is what should be delivered (hopefully) on Sunday by the latest: *Complete rebuild of the front suspension featuring: -Camber angle -Caster angle -Kingpin inclination -Ackermann steering -Anti-roll bar Currently waiting for BL order, should arrive tomorrow or on the 16th.

Totaly agreed!