Raskolnikov

Honestly, I don't think so. The design you linked definitely is one of the more creative fan interpretations. There recently was a semi-official miniature for the Star Wars Armada game, which is much more conservative in its design and, like most other representations, seems to have a superstructure and hull shape that is nearly identical to an ISD. The Armada version even has four turrets per side, and I kind of liked the three-turret versions more because I thought it was an interesting way to differentiate VSDs. Oh well. Long story short, I think based on the most definitive versions of VSDs, you really just need (1) the distinctive bridge and (2) the "wings." Other ways of differentiating VSDs seem to be optional and vary by artist. I've been meaning to take more pics of my VSD mods, but for some reason I haven't gotten around to it. Anyway, here's my one pic with crappy lighting that doesn't show much detail on the bridge changes. @Christoph27 Looking good so far, you're nearly there! Books 7 and 8 are very short, although Book 7 takes some time since certain parts of the bridge are fragile. Also, if you bought the stickers, there are turbo-lift stickers on the Death Star sticker sheet that are unused. They are intended to go on the tops of the dbg cylinders visible in your image and the ones directly below them (on level 2), but we were unable to add them via the instructions.

@MattVa Sounds right to me if you're using the 600m measurement for the 418. The Constrictor is sort of an amalgamation of the 418 and the Rebels Interdictor, though, which appears to be a larger ship. So it may be roughly to scale with the 10030/Aggressor as-is. Or if you want to use the 600m length, you could maybe convert a 10030/Aggressor to a Victory, which really isn't too difficult.

That sounds like an attempt to repair the bottom panel, but I may be misinterpreting. Just to clarify, it's the 3x2 wedges on the rear panels (i.e., the panels placed on book 4, page 8 or page 17) that are easy to repair. Or you can even place those wedges later, after the rear panels are in position. Damage to the bottom panels, by contrast, should definitely be avoided.

@humbertj Hrm, if you scroll up (edit: check page 12 of the thread), Schneeds worked through a similar issue. My recommendation is basically just to be very careful with the bottom panels--maybe hold them to try to avoid much movement or flexing--while gently pushing the rear panels into place. The rear panels will appear not to fit...keep pushing until they snap into place. It is OK to damage the rear panels during this process (i.e., lbg 2x3 wedge plates popping off), since they are relatively easy to repair once in position. The relative weakness of the section of the bottom panel that rests of above the stand also is something that I was thinking about re-designing at some point. I believe it works as-is, but you are not the only person to ask whether it would be better if it were reinforced. Please let us know how it works out. Should be mostly smooth sailing once you get past this point. And hopefully you've become a pro at the bottom panel removal/replacement process now--might help you out later on if you ever want to move the ship in the car or need to repair any serious damage.

Wonderful! Proportions and greebles look great. I want one!

@Sky8880 Glad you enjoyed it! Yeah, I always enjoy seeing pictures of the completed builds for some reason, so feel free to post some pics. There's also a tab on the rebrickable page for people to post pics, if you want. And yep, I think instructions for the interdictor are probably going to be coming in the future. I'm nearly done redesigning it to be a more suitable-for-instructions model and have increased interior space. So uh, "Constrictor II" coming soon, I guess.

Hrm, @Sky8880 I'd recommend watching the video once more, just in case. In addition, an unsuccessful attempt to attach a panel likely will result in some bending or loosening of parts, so flatten out the panel and tighten everything up before attempting again. Also be sure to position the pins like in the video and avoid overhanging pins. The pins and connections should line up exactly, but it may not seem that way initially because it usually takes some wiggling to fit the panel into position. That's just a result of it being a bendy, nearly-meter-long collection of plates. I haven't had any issues with visibility of the pins, so you may want to get some better lighting in your room, too. I suppose it's possible that some of the 2x2 modified plates (i.e., the pin receptacles) on the panel are out of position, as well, so double check to make sure the panels were built correctly. If you post a pic of the panels, I can try to check on that for you. Finally, I think this is something that improves with practice. My hope is that owners of the Aggressor become familiar with adding and removing all the modules, including the bottom panels, so they can repair and transport the ship easily. It's pretty much inevitable that a 27-lb Lego ship is going to need repairs at some point.

It's possible that there's something amiss, and I'll double check when I get home...but I'm pretty sure the solution (as much as I dislike it) is just to force it. I remember putting a note in the instructions that the fit for those panels is "very tight"--and by that I meant that some degree of force is required to make it happen, although hopefully it was the best choice among several not-ideal alternatives. Anyway, when I connect those panels, I attach both ball joints first before moving the panel into its final position, i.e., don't start with the rear panel in contact with the bottom panels, instead start with both ball joints connected and the rear panel able to move freely up and down. Then, move the rear panel downward until you make contact with the brackets along the edge of the bottom panel. It will rest on top of them and not appear to fit. Regardless, you should be able to gently depress the rear panel until it audibly snaps into place behind the brackets, like it in your image. You want to avoid any damage to the bottom panels, but it's fine if 2x3 wedge plates fall off the rear panel (and some probably will). Once the rear panel is in position, any 2x3 wedge plates can be replaced.

Let's see what we got here... Right, they're not to scale, but I did recently convert my Aggressor into a Victory-class. I'll take some decent pictures at some point, probably. It's still not quite to scale as a VSD, either, but it's fairly close (I believe the "VSD Aggressor" is about 4.5 inches too long, since the Tyrant is about 57 inches now). Since that room is removable, building it early or modifying it should be no trouble. I've thought about turning mine into something else as well, since the Tyrant already has a conference room--might go with something more mundane, like officers' quarters, though. Also, the "Aggressor" is just what I named my ship, but it's intended to be a generic Star Destroyer. Yours could certainly be the Chimaera. I'd be interested in seeing those mods sometime. Glad to hear that you've made it past the bottom panels "hump," that should be close to halfway through. I thought some parts of the bottom panels might break off if you tried to do it horizontally, but if it works, great. I may just be too used to the Tryant, which definitely needs to be vertical for bottom panel placement even though it's much more precarious when balanced on its "tail." And @BrianGT Thanks and good luck!

It's pretty easy to remove the bottom panels, since you can remove the pins with a small screwdriver when the ship is lying flat on the ground. It's putting the panels on that's a lot trickier.

One builder did that on his own and posted it in spreadsheet format. It's in the comments section on the rebrickable page. I haven't checked through it myself, though. Thanks! Try to keep that positive attitude going when you're like 9k bricks in and the next book is telling you to build yet another section of panels :P

Looks great, and seems very accurate for the scale. I may have to reverse-engineer one for myself!

Yeah, the choice between webbed trans light blue and webbed dbg dishes was a close one. And if the non-webbed trans light blue dishes were cheaper, I'd have probably gone with that. I just can't stand paying $30 (or whatever it is) for a single, used piece. @Schneeds Btw, how's your build going?

Yeah, if he's on the central walkway portion, like in the original pics (shown below). Although if you try to put him nearer to the outer edge of the bridge, then no. You can see it's sort of a split-level design. The conference room sits mostly above the lower section of level 2, leaving some empty space above the walkway.

@H_Solo That's a good looking mod to the feet. A lot of people have suggested modding them, but I think this may be the first time I've seen it done. I've thought about doing something similar, i.e., inserting one brick in between the macaroni bricks and using an 8x8 dish, but the price of those 8x8 lbg dishes is fairly annoying. Also, I'd want to increase the size of the ankles above them somehow, and that presents its own issues. Anyway, thanks for sharing! @Kozikyo86 Good luck on your gorilla walker, looks like a decent start to me. Sounds interesting, any precedent for that in the universe?

Good pics nonetheless. Ya'll need to get some minifigs, tho! Not so simple answer: Yes, it's an Imperial class. But Lucasfilm used two different models for the Star Destroyer in the original trilogy, one was the Devastator in Ep. IV, and then they had a newer, larger model for Ep. V. They kept randomly using the Devastator model in some scenes in the later two movies, as well (with some modifications, suggesting to me that the use of the Devastator model wasn't really intended to be a different class of ship). Anyway, the differences in the two models were retconnned into the Imperial-I class (Ep. IV) and the Imperial-II class (most ISDs in Ep. V-VI). Rogue One intentionally based their CGI ISDs on the Devastator (Imperial-I) model. I think the Aggressor draws more from the Imperial-II class, but I wouldn't say it strictly can only be that.The easiest to spot differences between the Imperial-I class and the Imperial-II are the main turrets, main engines, and the sensor array on top of the bridge. The Imperial-I also is less greebled. Aggressor's greebles aren't movie-accurate to either version (it's a LEGO model, after all), and it's turrets are oversized anyway, so they could be viewed as being similar to a Imperial-I. And I'd think you could easily modify the sensor array and engines, if you so wanted. Long story short, the Aggressor is intended to be a fairly generic Imperial Star Destroyer, and I think if you changed the sensor array on top of the bridge it could probably pass for either sub-type. Also, for the record, the name "Aggressor" doesn't really mean anything--that's just what i named mine. There are at least four ships in the EU with that name, so it's just a very generic bad-guy name. The instruction books just say "ISD" on them.

Ah, I didn't even see those additional pics in the gallery, cool! Thanks, glad you like it :) Yeah, I like my MOCs to still be toys in addition to being display models. Also, I'm sure your English is way better than my French, but when you say "drawing" are you referring to the overall design or internal structure? Thanks for the feedback! Regarding the first issue, we could add a text note in the instructions explaining that, similar to how we did with the top panels. Regarding the second issue, @Sheharanas well, that's a known issue that I've been meaning to investigate to see what exactly should be done. Another builder said the problem was that certain pins (the flick missiles) make it difficult to place that floor section. Anyway, I expect to address it at some point. Regarding placement of the command tower and the forward superstructure, all that's kind of "working as intended" at the moment. I decided to go for seamless fits between the sections, so there's a lot of stuff those modules can get caught on, etc. However, I may at some point try to correct the fact that that you have to depress the top panels slightly with your fingers to place the command tower (at least, that's what I do--otherwise, the command tower tends to come loose from the rails). I may also try to replace those rails entirely with something made of technic. Additionally, I've definitely thought about adding more pictures or text notes regarding handling and placing certain modules, including that little forward section of superstructure. The best way to place it (which currently isn't reflected in the text note), I believe, is to place the bottom part first. Then lift up the main superstructure section a little and place the little roof section. In some pictures of other completed builds, I've noticed that people haven't been getting the ideal fit on that section. BTW @Sheharan, glad you also completed the build! Any pics you wanna share? EDIT: Also, if anyone makes a UCS sticker and wants to share it, let me know. I'd be happy to put it on the rebrickable page, I just haven't made one myself.

Very nice pics, looks like you have your good camera again! So now that you're done, any lingering questions I can answer? Any constructive (heh) criticism? Also, how confident are you that you'll be able to repair or transport the ship if you need to? Would you be able to remove all the individual modules, then reassemble them from memory? Just curious. Interesting, so do they need to be watered, or are they like preserved in plastic or something? Btw, there's now a "fan photos" tab on rebrickable to share pics, if you want to upload any of your pictures there it'd be appreciated.

Thanks, always was curious about that. Also, what are those squares of greenery on the wall? They look interesting. If you look, you'll find a reverse-engineered version with instructions out there. Don't believe it has an interior, though. Anyway, no plans currently, but I may redesign that ship eventually. The frame would need to be better thought out in a few ways.

@bricksmarlin Btw, can you hook us up with some comparison shots with your 10030? Believe it or not, I've never seen a 10030 in person, so I'd be really interested in that.

He said "along the way," so we already have :) He started his build more than a month ago, so we incorporated a lot of his and other builders' feedback into the previous updates to the instructions. At this point, the to-do list for the next update consists of fairly minor clarity issues, so I'm holding off for now to let more feedback come in and to avoid spamming people's inboxes.

@Hunter003 Heh, I still think you'll be fine if you bring individual finished modules up or down the ladder. I just get some amusement out of how heavy the thing is when fully assembled--I think your visions would come true if you attempted to get up the ladder with it like that. It's like there's an actual brick hiding somewhere inside. Yep, that's how it's intended to be moved, generally. So the SNOT-attached slopes on the main stand actually have a functional purpose--without them, the sharp corners of the bricks are really unpleasant.

Yep Cool, I'm glad you're pleased with it :) Looks like you got everything to fit together well. Another builder just posted pics of his on reddit, so I believe there now are four of these ships in the wild (not counting the original), all of them completed this past weekend. Now I can breathe easier knowing that it's actually possible to follow the instructions to a satisfying conclusion. Haha, ask @bricksmarlin what moving it is like.

Awesome, so glad you were able to get the bottom panels on. Looks like you have a pretty intuitive grasp of how all the modules fit together. One part of the engine section doesn't seem to be fitting quite right, though, might wanna recheck the part built at page 40 of book 4 :)

There's a pretty good chance that I'll pretend it's a "Corellian Battleship" or something, just so I can finally have a capital ship battle between my Imperials and the Rebels.