Raskolnikov

That sounds toasty. Any issues with drooping/pieces staying together at that temperature? Nice Nebulon B btw :)

Ah, I see what you're saying. Never noticed that before, honestly. Haven't had a chance to test it, but there are two versions of the arm clip piece, so I'm wondering if it helps to use one version over the other. Regardless, glad it worked out! Yep, it's intended for the bridge to be tilted slightly downwards, relative to the bands of greebling along the sides of the frame. That's accurate to the original ILM models. I believe the sets only have the bridge perpendicular to the frame for the sake of simplicity. In a lot of shots/pics of Star Destroyers, you may notice that the nose of the ship is tilted upwards a little bit. And when you do that, the bridge would be facing directly forward. But it would add a lot of complications to the stands if the model's frame were not parallel to the floor. It's the same in all the pics I took earlier, so you might just need to wait for the superstructure n stuff before it looks right.

Hrm, you might need to post a pic on this one. Book 7 is pretty janky, but I just see a normal placement of a bracket in that step.

That's the trick, isn't it? I totally thought this part would be easy, then I spent like a month working through similar problems. The easiest path forward is probably to copy the pattern that the 75055 frame follows (i.e., just count how much longer each beam is, how much hinge placement changed, etc., then replicate). You can then maybe play around with how you attach the panels to limit the seam down the center. Really, there aren't all that many non-illegal options to create an A-shaped frame with a decent number of cross beams. If you want to mess around with other possible angles for the frame, it'd probably help to brush up on your algebra and trigonometry to find out why some builds work and others don't. Let's take a look at your frame, by way of example: You've made a right triangle with one side 18 studs long (green) and one side 6 studs long (red). In order for the build to not be illegal, we need the hypotenuse (blue) to be pretty close to a whole number. In this case, you've done a good job with that. The Pythagorean theorem tells us the hypotenuse is 18.97 units long, which is pretty close to 19 studs. That's why connecting these beams together probably felt right, while other connections did not. One problem though is the angle. Your exterior panels are using 3x6 wedge plates, which have an angle of 18.4 degrees. Turns out, each half of your frame has the same angle. So if you continued this pattern and built the frame in sturdy manner, then attached the panels to the sides of that frame, the panels would lie flat. At the moment, you can create a gentle slope (as shown in the earlier picture) but it's due to a few millimeters of bending along the sides of the frame, or the panels being placed on the frame a few millimeters off, etc. You can calculate the angle by googling arctan calculator and plugging in 6/18 (opposite side over adjacent side). And the result is the same for a 3x6 wedge plate (which includes a right triangle with sides of 2 and 6). In order to get a gentle slope towards the center of your ship, you'll want each side of your frame to create an angle closer to 18 degrees (yeah, the .4 is important...my Star Destroyers are relatively deep, and I think my angle is around 17.8). I forget exactly what the 75055's angle is, but you can figure it out if you draw triangles like I drew above. As you'll see, putting the hinge plates in different places can allow you to create some new angles. The 75055's frame has the hinge plates in the middle of the cross breams, creating two right triangles on each side (so you have to calculate the angle of both, then add them together to get something that's probably pretty close to 18 degrees). Anyway, GL!

Yeah, just checked my email lol. My bad.

@stormtroopercaptain@Iperial_Fleet_Commander@Junior Shark@TWRAddict@Hunter003@danielwerner Thanks guys! No problem, hope you enjoy it. And I totally understand that the Aggressor is not for everyone, so I am hoping this provides another option. Honestly, I just assumed the Aggressor was going to be like 7-8k parts... then Legolijntje built the digital model and it weighed in at a whopping 15k. Thanks! That's the second report I've had of Sellfy issues, so I'll keep an eye on it. The link from the rebrickable page should be the same, so I haven't been able to identify what the issue is. Nevermind, I screwed it up. Legolijntje fixed it :) Yep, thanks for that dude! Thanks, I believe it's about 22.5 inches (~57 cm) long, not counting the antennae things on the front. And it weighs about 7.5 lbs (~3.5 kg). Turning tricks, selling kidneys, etc. You know how it is. Thanks, looking forward to seeing it!

Probably not much, it's a comparatively small section with few plates and tiles. If you search this topic or the rebrickable comments for rockpig, he separated the parts list out by books. You could then load the parts list on rebrickable and see prices. I believe the exterior bridge is book 7. Just be warned that the exterior bridge definitely is one of the most fragile and funky parts of the build--it took some silly connections to get those angles right.

Hi all, So I rebuilt my Imperial Interdictor MOC for the purpose of making instructions (with Legolijntje's help, as usual). The Constrictor II is on the left: It might not be the first Interdictor with instructions, heh, but it's probably the first playable one. As you guys know from your own MOCs and rebrick projects, a lot goes into making a model that's ready for public consumption like an official set. I didn't consider the first Constrictor to be instructions-ready for a number of reasons that weren't really visible in pictures. For example, attaching and removing the large bottom panels is a huge hassle (the pins are hidden under portions of the deck); the handle can break mid-carrying, causing you to drop the ship (honestly, the worst thing a handle can do); it wobbled like a bobble-head on the stand, which was slightly off the center of mass; etc. Anyway, the Constrictor II corrects those issues. It also has more usable interior volume, while adding gravity well generators that correspond to the exterior bulges. Overall, I didn't reinvent the wheel with the ship's exterior, despite the variety of official representations that came out after completing original design. But I did join some other designers by taking a crack at a bridge that looks more like the Rebels version, and I also made use of some new pieces to give it a generally sleeker exterior. More pics on Flickr, of course: https://www.flickr.com/photos/raskolnikov268/41983476111/in/dateposted/ And a few more below: Btw, when I said improved the balance, I really meant it. The whole ship can balance on just four studs (note the orange 2x2 round bricks underneath the stand in the next pic). You can also spin the ship around on the stand if it's on a smooth, flat surface. Not sure if Eurobricks can host a .gif or .gifv, but you can see me spinning the ship around and opening it up here: https://i.imgur.com/zjQW0QZ.gifv Edit: Just made a video showing it. Looks like I can embed that: Instructions available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-14601/raskolnikov/constrictor-ii-playable-interdictor-cruiser/ Thanks again for the great feedback on the original Constrictor and my other MOCs. Hope to see some of you Aggressor builders adding this to your fleet. At 4450 parts, should be a breeze (you can also move it and open it up a LOT easier, let me tell you).

They were removed from the parts list (and the instructions) in August 2017. Methinks you need to export the updated version :)

If you can build a giant Eclipse with interior, you can figure out how to post pictures. Looking forward to seeing this beast.

Anyone interested in seeing a timelapse of the build (which apparently takes a while) one of the builders put one on YouTube: Hrm, haven't checked in here in a while... In some places, sure. You could probably fit 100+ 2x2 tiles somewhere and it would be fine. Sometimes the 2x4s are important for stability, though, as well as aesthetics to some extent (i.e., the exterior tiles are varied so as to avoid a "tiled floor" look, and hopefully pull off more of an "armored spaceship" look). @KryptonicThose photos look great! @SchneedsDitto, pulled off the Rogue One shot pretty well! Honestly, I've thought about making a white ISD I version of the ship. You could re-use the frame and interior. And white is a color with a lot of parts available, so you could make substitutions as necessary. If I ever get around to it, I'll have to try to recreate that shot as well. Bridge mods look good, too. I think I tried something like that with the boxy window-shaped structures to the sides of the command bridge, but I can't remember why I opted against it. Definitely looks good your way with the shadows, though.

Yeah, I'd definitely recommend this, it's very useful. Without checking rebrickable myself, my guess is that it makes sense to scrap 75054 if it's open/used and you plan to make use of the minifigs. If a 75054 is sealed, you can probably sell it for a hefty markup on ebay and pay for the whole plus size AT-AT at once. Prices be crazy.

Glad you're enjoying it!

Hrm, I can't really see how it was built in the picture, but it may be fine. The bricks attached to the lbg L-shaped liftarm should be upside down relative to the rest of the build and somewhat loose, as far as I recall. Then they get more secure as more technic parts are added. It's definitely one of the wonkiest things in the build, but I think it's a pretty exact fit. The fit should be the equivalent of doing this:

Congrats! As for tips, I don't have much. There are a handful of challenges...but if you're patient enough to collect all the parts, you're most likely well-suited for the building process, too :)

Emails with links to download the most recent updated version were sent out on August 22, 2017, give or take a day. The rebrickable page and sellfy page have any updated versions listed at the bottom. I'd say to check your spam folder for the email, but it may have auto-deleted it long ago. So uh, private message me with your order date and paypal email address, and I can resend it.

Ha, not even close. Good luck, tho!

Interesting. So yeah, the bottom panels might be a little bent out of shape. That test doesn't entirely rule out a building mistake, though. And now that I look at your pics again, I'm thinking that the bottom panels might be impacting elsewhere, like around the reactor bulge. So please make sure you're able to push up on the panels in a way that can close the gap there, too (or mostly close it anyway--it's normal to have a slight gap between the bottom panels that gradually increases toward the rear of the ship).

@Bender222 Yeah, that gap is larger than normal. It could perhaps be (1) a result of flexing/bending in the bottom panels, in which case taking them off and flattening/tightening them might fix it. Or it could be (2) that something is built incorrectly on the bottom of the frame or on the interior surface of the bottom panels, and as a result they're clipping into each other. So, it would be helpful if you pushed upward on the bottom panels in your first picture. Can you press the bottom panels up towards the hangar bay? Can they touch the 2x4 wedge plates shown in your first picture? If you can make them touch easily, it may just be a flexing/bending issue. If something's in the way preventing that, you'd need to find what it is (and for us to help, we'd need clear pics of the bottom panels and the frame).

@Forresto Yeah, making instructions for the landing craft is on the ever-growing to-do list. Work has been keeping me pretty busy recently. I've previously made the Tyrant's TIEs available here https://imgur.com/a/9h7Bk although the cockpit design is very fragile (Aggressor's new TIE design is a significant step up, imo).

I'd consider it, but no current plans. Thanks, it certainly seems that way :) Hrm, I'd be interested in seeing what that looks like. So you finished yours? How'd it turn out? Just marking this as resolved.

Gosh, did you actually use the old picture instructions? If so, impressive. If you haven't see 'em already, there are free pdf instructions available here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-6006/raskolnikov/plus-size-at_at/#comments There's like a 15-page topic on that somewhere--not quite sure how you found this older post instead, sorry! Haha, yes there are instructions, and they're free. See the above link. Cheers.

@Christoph27 Looks great, glad you liked it. It also looks like you're in the elite group of builders who managed to have the superstructure fitted completely properly when taking your first picture :) Any plans to fill it with a crew of minifigures? Also, an optional change to the build is to remove the lowermost 1x6 tile on the "neck" of the bridge assembly. This eases the process of sliding the bridge into place, and I think the bracket studs look fine when exposed. If we ever roll out a final update it'll probably include this change.

I haven't checked up on this thread in a little while, but wow that render looks really nice. Is it as durable as it looks? And how soon until solidbrix adopts this design? :)

That's a great looking UCS sticker, where's that from?