garethjellis

Another good tool is the alighn tool to get your gears lined up. They must all have a rotations connection. For example. They must all have a spindle to rotate on.

This is a great project and model . good work.

This is excellent. The scale function is fantastic. What a great tool!

Hey maf, the wires have 4 cores. Two are a constant voltage switchable by the battery box or reverster switch. And two are for pulse width modulation which is what the or receiver does.

kids have a 7938, we use Duracell rechargeable batteries Nickle Metal Hydride. and it works fine. some good traction too.

what a fun project, it looks good! i am looking forward to seeing the end project photos!

Hey mikezang, did you ever complete the 8 wide TGV? I am just about to embark on the same project.

This is a really nice model!

Instead of hacking a Lego battery box, you can create your own Li-Ion packs for not much money. I do this for my train builds, Normally less that $20 for the batteries, controller and charger, solder lego PF plugs and your good to go. Make sure the battery pack has voltage controllers on them so you Li-Ion does not fully discharge. Most of the voltage controllers also have charge controllers built in. Here are some options http://www.ebay.com/itm/190911430355?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 http://www.ebay.com/itm/271000608354?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 This last one I built is linked below, I split the pack as there is 3 flat 3.7v Li-Ions with individual voltage controllers. Using just 2 makes the voltage 7.2 which is the average Lego PF battery box output, You can see in my MOC that the slim battery works very very well and it is 1800mah so is better than the Lego Li-Ion. Has enough power to run 2 L PF motors and 3 sets of LED's http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-1800mAh-Super-Lithium-ion-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Energy-Storage-Pack-/380724928309?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item58a4f95f35 The last one I made was for the Emerald Night Tender conversion. I converted the EN to a 7 wide. put a regular PF train motor underneath with two single bogies, IR in the tender and the below battery pack inside, this one is a very power full pack with 6400mah and pretty much the same size at the Lego train battery box.(just a teeny bit bigger) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Durable-CREE-XML-T6-LED-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Pack-Head-Lamp-SK-CAilko7102-/380846760436?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item58ac3c61f4 If there is enough interest I may create tutorials on how to make them. http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-1800mAh-Super-Lithium-ion-Rechargeable-Li-ion-Battery-Energy-Storage-Pack-/380724928309pt=US_Rechargeable_Batteries&hash=item58a4f95f35

It would be great to be able to enter how many feet = how many studs so you can then scale the rest of your model. For example I build 7 and 8 wide trains to match 8 to 10 feet wide in real life. so using that measurement I then calculate the length etc. Just an idea to make your great tool even better

What a great model!

Your welcome, it took me a while to work it out also

When you double click the red dot you have to hold the mouse button down, then drag to where you want

Hey rockethead, you must highlight all the flex track you would like to flex, then double click the dot of the end you wish to flew and drag it to where you want. I hope that helps

Nice model. I am interested to see the designs for the 4 motors in the bogies.

I use LDD, then LDD to POV converter, then POV ray to render, great results every time.

Hey bublible, What are you using do design the model and what are you using to render?

Great model !

WHat a great show, I wish I was a little closer!

I agree, great build!

Probably not the advice you want to hear but I ended up doing them by hand, using a snap shot from LDD and slowly taking apart the model snap shooting each time, then using MS Publisher to creat the parts list ETC. I think the result is much better.

Good morning, I have recently moved to EV3 from NXT and have realized that the hi-technic PID block does not work for EV3. So, I tried creating my own and have run in to all sorts of problems and am here looking for help or advice. Here is what I would like it to do, Calibrate - move a motor in a direction (to a hard stop point) reset the degrees. and make this the datum 0 point for all new move references Move - move using the datum from the calibration point a set amount of degrees. I was trying to use two degree reads 0.1 seconds apart, subtracting them using a math block then comparing it to a set value of 5 degrees to measure no movement. all contained with in a loop, using the compare to break the loop. It dont work argggg. Please help any ideas?

Very nice model!

What a fantastic model!

And here it is in brick, i ended up putting 2 motors in. I like be as purist as possible however I had to create a slim Li-Ion battery to make this work.