dhc6twinotter

I'm not an engineer, so you may be right. I do like my theory, and If I were to build this, I would build it as I described. If it doesn't work, then I'll move the weight back. I would think that if there was enough weight to get the car over, there should be enough momentum to carry it all the way back over. The circular cage on the Roll Golf isn't perfectly circle. The apex (not sure if that is the correct term) of the circle is above the base of the windshield, or just to the rear of the front wheels. The Golf has the engine mounted forward of the front "axle", so it's already a pretty nose-heavy car. With the wheelbase shortened in the Roll Golf, it becomes even more nose-heavy. But what do I know, I'm not an engineer....I could be completely wrong. I find it interesting that they used the AWD Golf Syncro for the Roll Golf. Can't see what benefit that would have, but maybe it's just the car they had on hand. EDIT: here's another video that shows more of the real car:

Looking good! Your gearbox design looks like it works well. I'm looking forward to your finished project.

I think it's possible, but weight distribution will also be important. You want the back end as light as possible, so I would mount the battery box in the front, maybe even in front of the front axle. The motors should be in the front as well. Basically, you want the center of gravity just slightly behind the front wheels--just enough weight to keep the rear wheels on the ground. If you can do that, then I don't think it would take much to flip it over. Speed and braking would also play a role.

Looks great! I like the primary cover and the springer front end.

I haven't noticed any animosity on the forum, and people here seem to be pretty friendly. I've even managed to meet some members in person, all of whom were really great people. That being said, I do have one pet-peeve that I've noticed a little on this forum, but more so on other non-lego international forums. It really irks me when a member starts correcting another member's grammar or spelling mistakes. This is an international forum, and for many of the people here, English is not their first language. If I could speak a 2nd language half as good as many here speak English, I would be thrilled. I say keep this a LEGO forum and keep the grammar/spelling corrections out. Even though I was born in the US, I grew up in a 3rd world country, so perhaps this is why I'm a bit more sensitive to this. Otherwise, no complaints from me. Love the forum, and there are many great members here. Well said.

Thanks for the reference to my work, however I would like to mention that my design is pretty different from Igor's wheel design. Igor uses a couple of xpod lids to sandwich a power puller tire, with a threaded 10L axle to keep everything together. I think his newer design uses 10x10 dishes instead, and I believe he found a way to build it without the threaded axles. His design is very nice and seems to work very well. I tried using his design for my backhoe, but the stretched pp wheels were way too small, and I ended up using the design posted above. It's much larger than the stretched power puller tires. Anyways, I thought I would clarify that. Thanks again for referencing my work.

I usually use a white 24t clutch gear to keep the motor from stalling. However, if you are using the smooth axle connectors inside your driving ring, the driving ring can slip out of your 16t gears under high-torque applications. I solve this by using a worm gear to move the driving rings, as seen in my picture above. Put the white 24t clutch gear on the axle that turns the worm gear, with the worm gear turning either an 8t or 24t gear that is connected to the selector. I hope that makes sense. I'm not very good at explaining stuff.

Pretty cool. I'm guessing it can move in any direction, and the nxt mounted low like that acts as a weight that keeps the motors from going around inside the wheel. Maybe I'm wrong....I dunno.

That's probably true, but I did like the variety that Star Wars brought to the Technic line. It was a nice change from the typical set based off some piece of machinery. We had all kinds of colors not normally used in the Technic line; like green, tan, brown, and even purple. My favorite was the Destroyer Droid Unfortunately, the only Technic Star Wars set I have is Darth Vader: I bought it because I found it on sale, but it did have some really great pieces. I'm even thinking about using the helmet on a future moc of mine. The newer Star Wars sets lost some of their appeal to me when they started using all those ball-joint pieces for the arms and legs.

Getting that 1/2 stud offset can be a bit tricky sometimes. There are several different ways to accomplish this: 1) Place a 1/2 beam or 1/2 bushing behind the clutch gears. This allows the clutch gears and driving ring to be off by 1/2 stud instead of the selector lever. If you have the space, this is probably the easiest way to build a gearbox. The 8265 front loader uses a gearbox design like this, and this is how I built the gearbox on my float plane. 2) The Unimog uses the part below mounted sideways to get that half offset on the selector lever: The log truck and, iirc, the flat bed truck use a similar method for the half offset. 3) Paul (Crowkillers) uses the following part to get the 1/2 lever offset on his transmissions: 4) I have used the following method to get the 1/2 offset on both my forwarder and backhoe: I used 3 of these parts per side, separated by 1/2 bushing: Also, notice how I have 1x5 dark bley beam there also. If you placed a beam on either side of the gearbox like that, it would help keep the selector lever from jumping out of the driving ring. I don't particularly like this gearbox design, but it works. It's just not a very elegant solution, imho. I'll probably try to come up with something better on my future projects. Anyways, hope that helps.

I miss having the Star Wars sets in the Technic line. There were some really great sets, especially the Hailfire Droid and the Destroyer Droid. Could LEGO re-introduce the Star Wars theme to the Technic line? It would be a great opportunity to add more variety and colors, especially brown. What do you all think?

This looks really good! I like the design you used on the super steer setup. I had no idea some tractors used steering like that, and it's always nice to learn something new!

I used a 40t gear on my 16 cylinder radial engine project, and I briefly thought about using it on my forwarder project. It may come in handy on a future project as well. It has it's uses, so I hope LEGO doesn't get rid of it, but like Paul said, there are plenty on Bricklink.

Nice looking truck! I like the spare tire in the back, and your suspension looks like it has some nice flex! I need to get some of those black rims. Mocs always look so nice with them. You picked a nice truck to base this moc after. I remember when Dodge redesigned the Ram in '94...I thought they were the coolest looking trucks! Even though Dodge has gone through two redesigns since then, they are still one of my favorite full-size trucks. Hard to beat those I6 turbo diesels, and the new 6.7L diesel is awesome! A Cummins powered Ram with a 6spd manual tranny would probably be the only 3/4 or 1 ton truck I would buy.....only new Chrysler product I would ever buy too.

I'm pretty sure I'll make it. Three other guys from my local LUG are going, but I'll be driving up on my own. I'm down for an EB pizza party or something.

You're right, I overlooked the trim function when I was reading through that PDF. Thanks for the info! It's always nice for me to learn something new. Are you going to implement the ability to trim on your Chinook? I'm a fan of your work, and I'm looking forward to your Chinook!

I wouldn't pay $200 for the Crawler. I'd pay $150, or maybe $175....maybe...

A Chinook would be awesome! I haven't worked on any swashplates yet, but a chinook may be somewhat easier since the chinook doesn't have forward/backward cyclic movement in the swashplates. Since the Chinook has tandem rotors, forward/backward flight is controlled by varying the amount of collective in each rotor. This is still controlled by the forward/backward movement of the cyclic control sticks in the cockpit. Like a traditional helicopter, the Chinook still has collective control. You probably know all that, but thought I'd mention it.... The Chinook and Super Stallion (which I have part of the rotor hub built for) have been on my list of mocs, but it looks like you may have the Chinook built first. In my Chinook research, I found the THIS site to be very useful. Also, HEREis a detailed description of the flight controls in PDF format. I'm looking forward to your project! Your Huey is fantastic, and I'm really excited to see your Chinook. The Chinooks fly over my house on a regular bases. They are really loud and make the pictures on my walls rattle.

That is a really, really nice crane! You have some great functions, and I especially like your boom design. Well done! :thumbup:

Sorry, I thought you were referring to the 9395 tow truck. I agree, the helicopter would probably be priced about where the 8109 tow truck is...maybe slightly cheaper. There is some kind of pitch mechanism, but whether it has collective, cyclic, or both has yet to be seen. I would love to see both collective and cyclic control, but I'm part of the camp that thinks it's just collective. I hope I'm wrong though.

I'm super excited about the helicopter, even if it only has collective. The new blades are awesome, especially the tail rotor blades. I think it will be more expensive than the tow truck though; it has a higher part count and a larger gearbox. My guess is that the price will be about half way between the tow truck and the log truck.

Thanks! Unfortunately, I don't have instructions for any of my mocs. Sorry.

I'm thinking about a move to the northern AZ or southern CA areas, so I'd be on your list if I did. I'll be in that area looking for work this fall. I know there is a LUG in Phoenix, and there are a lot of LEGO fans in the SOCAL area as well.

Congrats to all the winners! The 1st and 2nd place winners truly were some very unique mocs! Well done guys! It was really great to see all the fantastic entries that all the builders submitted. There are some awesome models! Thanks to EB for hosting the contest, and thanks to Sinner for spending all the time required to make this contest happen. Thanks, also, to all the judges and to all the EB members that voted. The voter turnout was much more than I had expected. Thanks! Hopefully, we'll have another contest next year.

I built a really crude lego camera dolly and rolled the camera across the dock. It works ok, but I had to watch out for the cracks between the planks. I'd like to build a nicer dolly with tilt controls. I'd also like to buy a real camera dolly system, but they are $$$$$.