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Found 13 results

  1. My brother and I ( @soccerkid6 ) have been writing quite a few tutorials on techniques we often use in our medieval creations. We will be using this topic to share these designs with all of you, and will keep an index of our tutorials in this first post while also posting new replies as we add new tutorials. Index of tutorials: Curved Thatch Roof Tutorial Corner Thatched Roof Tutorial Technic Rockwork Tutorial Stone Wall Tutorial Tilted Plate Landscape Tutorial Simple Angled Wall Tutorial 8x8 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Irregular Base Tutorial Shingle Roof Tutorial SNOT Stone Wall Tutorial Half-Stud Offset Wooden Wall Tutorial. Basic Arrow Slits Tutorial Turntable Stained Glass Window Tutorial Stone Cottage Wall Tutorial Medieval Hand Cart Tutorial Furniture Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #2 Round Well Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial Snow Tutorial Four Sided Castle Roof Tutorial Simple SNOT and Studs-Up Rockwork Tutorial Wagons and Carts Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #3 Furniture Tutorial #4 Simple Roof Gables Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #5 Middle Eastern Tutorial #1 Furniture Tutorial #6 Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #7 Furniture Tutorial #8 Slanted Rockwork Tutorial 45° Skyrim Roof Tutorial Curving Staircase Tutorial Mixel Joint Tree Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #9 Doors and Gates Tutorial Large Onion Dome Tutorial Mottled Stone Wall Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #10 Flying Carpet Tutorial Stone Bridge Pier Tutorial Turret Roof Tutorial Elegant Fountain Tutorial Hexagon Tower Tutorial Hinge Brick Well Tutorial Semicircle Tower Design Stone Footbridge Tutorial 4x4 Dish Dome Tutorial Podium with Mosaic Tutorial Small Carts Tutorial Stepping SNOT Wall Tutorial Al-Danah Tower Design Small Onion Dome Tutorial Stone and Timber Wall Design Market Stalls Tutorial SNOT Panel Water Tutorial Doors Tutorial #2 Middle Eastern Tutorial #2 Furniture Tutorial #11 Winter Tower Roof Design SNOT Tudor Design 6x6 Octagonal Tower Tutorial Monastery Window and Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #12 Large Round Tower Tutorial Bar and Clip Brickwork Tutorial Window Tutorial Free Floating Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #13 4x4 Roof Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #14 Dormer Roofs Tutorial Footbridge Tutorial #2 SNOT Water Tutorial SNOT Rockwork Base Tutorial Photography and Editing Process Headlight Brick Cobblestone Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #15 Wagons and Carts Tutorial #3 6x6 Elven Roof Tutorial Irregular SNOT Base Tutorial Furniture Tutorial #16 How to Angle Buildings We have many more tutorials already done that we will be posting here soon, but here are a few for starters. We hope you find this thread to be a useful resource for all your medieval creations.
  2. Tracytron54321

    Techniques for receded guns?

    What I mean is, for example how on some Batmobiles (Notably the 1989 version) and the 1989 Batwing, as well as the Delta-7B Aethersprite-class light interceptor from Star Wars or the machine guns on modern fighter jets, the guns are receded/receding into the hull. Has anyone figured out any kind of techniques to try to replicate that?
  3. When Lego redesigned the 1x1 tile with clip (15712) to be rounded like a minifigure hand, it became possible to wedge a tile inside the clip. However, this technique seems to have been used only rarely, I'm only aware of it appearing in the retired UCS Shield Helicarrier (76042, for the nanofigure control room) and the Creator Blue Jet (31039, for the heads up display). I've not even seen this used in many MOC's, so my first question is, why not, is it bad for the parts? I was hoping to use this technique on a MOC with 1x2 grille tiles to represent micro-scale safety railings: However, in real life the tile-in-clip assembly is very stiff. It's hard to get the tile into the clips, though it does snap in. However, the tile seems to prefer sitting in the clip at an angle (as done in the helicarrier) instead of going in straight (like the heads up display on the creator Blue Jet). So is this technique really "legitimate"? Does it strain or damage the parts? Is it safe to do this to the grille tiles, which have much less plastic to force apart the clip? I'd be interested to hear your thoughts or see MOCs where this has been done.
  4. Hi Community, I'm trying to resolve the construction of a pyramid type corner without using slopes, with each layer in two directions only stepping back either 1LDU or 0.5LDU whilst maintaining vertical alignment of face tile joints. Photos show what I'm trying to do but failing to keep the vertical tiles in alignment. Ahhh. This is doing my head in.
  5. I'm trying to connect multiple 16x16 and 8x16 plates together for a large-ish MOC, the base size is 56x44 studs so I can't use standard 32x32 baseplate parts. If I build directly on top of the network of plates, the plates pop off with the slightest flex. If I sandwich the base layer between a pair of 2xN plates running along the seams, it's a bit stronger but the 16x16 plates can twist so much that they still pop the plates off and it all falls apart. I've studied a lot of the official sets, but not even the Disney castle had a footprint this big. Does anyone have any tips and tricks for building a strong and rigid base, that can survive being picked up and moved around a little?
  6. I’ve been experimenting with 75937 “parabolic rings”, or “plate 2x2 with bar frame octagonal”, as bricklink describes it. I’m struggling to understand how it can connect to other elements, so I was curious - what connections are legitimate, and how do you use this part in your own MOCs? From what I can see, in official lego sets the parabolic ring is typically restricted to detailing like on the rathtars in 75180 Rather Escape, or the base for legs of Destroyer Droids: However, the ring can also be used as a structural element for brick built cylinders. You can connect 61252 plate 1x1 with clip horizontal and the studs will line up perfectly (left) and you can extend the assembly with bricks and remain “in system”: Changing the clip to 15712 tile 1x1 with vertical clip, it turns out the parabolic ring is 9 plates high, or 11 with two clips attached (left). Curiously, mecabricks says this is impossible, but it appears to work in real life. It turns out that in LDD and real life, the 1x1 tile part of 15712 has a slightly lower height than a standard 1x1 tile - why?? To keep this kind of attachment "in system"? It is certainly a useful feature, because if you add an extra two plates top and bottom, the entire assembly exactly matches a 6x6 plate (right). At least, it does in LDD (unable to test in real life and I'm not sure what CAD programs to trust any more). The two clip types are also equivalent. 15712 + two 1x1 plates matches the height of the 61252 (Left). The gap between them appears to be two and a half plates (?), but I’m not sure. The cylinder with the tile clips can be extended with bricks, but the plate across the top must be an odd length of studs. I assume this is like with technic triangles, where you count the gaps, not the studs, from mid-point to mid-point (right). So in this case it's a half plate from each of the parabolic rings, + 9 plates = 10 plates = 4 gaps: Now this where things get a bit crazy for me. If I build using the 15712 vertical clip, the whole assembly goes “out of system”. Zooming in between the 1x1 brick and the black tile, you can see a hairline gap - quarter, maybe eighth plate thick? What causes this gap? As a result, the separation between the two rings is slightly less than 6 plates, resulting in a collision at the halfway point: I’m not sure if this counts as being within lego tolerances. But how would you go about getting this kind of assembly back "in system". Is it even possible to close this gap? Does this even matter in real life? An answer is kind of important to me because I've been using it as a key component in a particle physics detector MOC that's taken me some months... I was just about to order parts when I discovered this "flaw", and I'm not sure how disastrous it is: Anyway, I'd love to hear your thoughts on these geometry issues. And do you have any other ways of building with parabolic ring? Are there any other interesting features of this piece that I've missed?
  7. Hey guys, I'm making a fantasy moc of an evil lords tower. I need help texturing the walls because I don't wanna repeat the same thing the whole way up the tower (it will be 68cm tall) and I don't wanna use techniques from the LOTR set "Orthanc" because I have that one and I'll be displaying them on the same shelf. I'm using black for pretty much the whole thing. Does anyone have any advice? Please?
  8. I spend long periods away from home and my Lego bricks due to my work, so I end up doing a lot of design in computer with the likes of LDD, LDraw/bricksmith, and mecabricks. The problem is that none of these have any "physics" in them, I can't ever see how strong or stable the model is. So I end up spending hours agonising over the way the bricks are stacked, worrying over whether or not they will lock together solidly enough in real life. I also spend ages checking brick link and Lego bricks and pieces to make sure the pieces I use are available in the colours I choose, but that's another story. When I finally do treat myself and buy the bricks for one of my creations, they invariably fall apart. A couple of years back it was a 50 piece micro-scale particle detector that took 2 hours to get together and exploded at the slightest touch (and I do mean that literally, bits went flying all over the room!). My latest fiasco is a model of the Mercury-Redstone rocket, which I designed to go with the Lego Ideas Saturn V. It's just a stack of 2x2 round bricks with three axles inside due to it's height, yet despite my best efforts to put the axle transitions well inside bricks, the rocket easily falls apart into three neat chunks (one for each axle). So, what's the secret? When you design in computer do you care at all about how the model would behave in real life? And if you do care, do you have any tips on making sure that the model holds up well when physically built?
  9. Hi everyone! I am facing quite a difficulty: I want to build an oval-shaped building (here is the base piece), but the problem is that I don't know which tiling method I should use in order to create the floor. Should I use round 1 x1 quarter ones or other round tiles ? The U-shape bugs me. Please give me your impressions. If needed, some photographs (taken from an iPhone, sorry if the quality is not perfect) in order to catch the angles of the piece.
  10. Backstory: When I was a youngster in the 80's, I was a very big fan of LEGO. I collected and built many sets, and had many minifigures. I used to regularly switch around pieces to make the best looking minifigures. This included swapping out everything from torsos, heads, and hands, to arms, legs, and hips. I was aware of every detail. I loved when new sets would come out that had minifigures with more advanced details than in previous sets. New head prints, beyond the standard smile, were a step forward for LEGO as a company. I grew away from LEGO in my teens and twenties as I explored other hobbies and interests. When I returned to LEGO in my thirties, I was happy to see that this progress never stopped. LEGO was now printing on the legs and backs of minifigures, and their prints were looking better than ever. And this has continued to the present day, with new developments like side leg printing, arm printing, and dual molded parts. The point: LEGO has made considerable progress in the way that they detail their minifigures. They are capable of so much more now than they were 20-30 years ago. They have increased their standards of design again and again, constantly creating more and more detailed minifigures. But they don't seem to use these techniques as often as I would expect. Leg and back printing have become commonplace, but the more recent advances of side leg printing, arm printing, and dual molding are seen less frequently. Is it because they are new techniques? We see these advances in Collectible Minifigures, in Dimensions, in polybags, and in larger sets. If they can use these new techniques, then why aren't more sets including them? For example, why is it that they have made very detailed versions of C-3PO and Boba Fett from Star Wars in 2015, both of which include highly detailed printing, only to make less detailed versions of the same characters the next year in 2016 that lack these advances? It would seem to me that this is a step backwards in progress, a regression, stepping away from the design apex that was set only a year earlier. Do others see it this way? Some have made the point that the idea is to make more detailed minifigures exclusive, bringing more incentive to spend on more expensive sets. Does this not reduce the incentive to spend on the sets with newer, less detailed minifigures? Others have made the point that it would make the sets more expensive if they would include these details. Would it really increase the cost enough to be a big factor in the overall set price? Conclusion: What is the general concensus of the people on Eurobricks? As LEGO advances their techniques, should they make these advanced printing and molding techniques a new standard for minifigures, or should they keep these more detailed minifigures as exclusives and incentives?
  11. Hi EB community, I'm pimping out 10220 and I want to use adjustable suspension. The only solution I heard about was pneumatic suspension. I've investigated this, and I still don't understand exactly how it works. I've even asked respectable Technic FOLs like Sariel (http://sariel.pl/) and received derogatory and offensive remarks. Can anyone explain if there's any better way to remotely adjust suspension on an RC Lego Model-Team style 10220 set? Also, if pneumatic's the best answer, how exactly does it work? I would appreciate any constructive feedback. Thanks! In exchange, I've attached what I think is my modded version of 10220, with some pretty mods. (Let me know if it's the original set file.) 10220_volkswagen_t1_camper_van.lxf
  12. Hi all, I'm relatively new to the forum, so I'm not even sure whether this should go here, but... I'm trying to build a fantasy creature/mount for a minifig to ride (in LDD for the moment), and was wondering if any of you guys had any tips and building techniques you'd be willing to share. Especially for things like "bulking up" the body and such. Some inspiration so you guys know what I'm vaguely going for: http://digital-art-g...digital_art.jpg http://fc01.devianta...lin-d5rjliw.jpg http://1.bp.blogspot...s_character.jpg Any help much appreciated!
  13. Lego-Freak_1996

    Hill technique (BAG ENG roof)

    Hello, I'm working on the Bag End of the Hobbit. It's a hugh building with all rooms and lots of details the only thing what is missing is the hill underneath and on top of the hobbit hole. Could some one give me some tips for techniques how to build a smooth hill? After I finished with my building I'll share my building on Flickr and ,of cause, here ;) Hope you can give me a hand! Best regards Lego-Freak