That_LEGO_Guy
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Posts posted by That_LEGO_Guy
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I only know about the bionicle era but a good canister should be stackable and have some lego connection so it can be used outside of just packaging. I liked the mate/nuva with the 6 head mounts but never saw any of the mask packs. I like the bohrok display 'hook' but would have prefered if instead ofa sticker that you peeled off it was a second layer that rotated like the mata cans had to reveal the window( same with the raksho but not sure how that'd work with the triangle shape.
The metru got a lot of use from me. For a while I used a metru canister with a rubber band around the screw thread as a technic air tank for pneumatic mocs and Joining 2 into a ball was cool, I tried building the transport vehicle seen in the bonus clips with the prototype sets on the 'web of shadows' dvd that had ~4 balls in a line. didn't look to good with mixed colours.
the iniki/piraka that showed the light up bit was cool. down side was some lights would be flat on the shelf from all the kids pressing them( I was one) up side was the flat ones would get discounted, and I'd just pyt in new batts.
Now looking at it I was wrong but I thought the mahri 'frame' thing was the same as the seat they sat in in the commercial so used them as sort of 'stasis chambers' once I got some more of the flex tubes that came out that year to link them to the frame.
The barraki did look good but couldn't stack them. I bought 3 of the discounted as the bionicle shelf was near the window and the blue plastic had softened and warped in the sun.
The hordika/visorahk lid that showed the spinner was a nice touch, didn't have internet at the time but had a mate who would just spin it and write the code down at the store and racked up heaps of the points in the online games.
I did see one of the hockey player canisters that doubled as a water bottle, thats was cool.
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This is great, like somone got a 70s MG put some massive truck/aircraft engine into it, probably idles at highway speeds.
at .6ml per cylinder scaled up from 1/18th its a 20.9lt engine
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@Hrafn 2x2 round tile with hole and has a stud-pin pushed stud first into it.
@gyenesvi Thanks, It does skip at the diff not helped by the servo steering a little further than the cv joints can. the 20z might need a better mounting but it still drives around with only frontwheel drive and double the weight with not too many clicks
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@gyenesviNothing slips past you, yes to everything, the wheel side of the cv goes through with https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=15461&idColor=11#T=C&C=11
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I've managed to make a what might be the smallest steered live axle with a diff thats 13 studs wide including the wheels (9 between the wheels)
I named the video that to entice someone to proove me wrong on youtube.
is this the smallest axle thats been made?
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A quality moc a lot of NPUs are the nets the regular square ones?
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I made a tool out of a rubber and a cut in half staple. I only have a picture of the magnet after I remove most of the loose material, and it was all the same colour as the magnet.
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On 4/29/2021 at 4:31 PM, 1974 said:I had well over a hundred red MMs and I've thrown out at least twenty. They just go bad and there is no cure.
Ever tried to fix them and succeeded? I found one in some bulk that worked for a short time. Opened it up to your pics to see if I could fix it. The coil side of the magnet surface had deteriorated a little, thin flakes of magnet where blocking the rotor, I lightly scraped the loose magnetic flakes off the top until the rotor spun freely and it has worked fine since.I love this little motor
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My set came sealed with all 10 rims grey, all pin connectors grey and all axle connectors the smooth type. I was disappointed years later when found out the box art was aurate, it was shiny, just not mine.
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After getting my hands on 2 dragster tires and 2 of those new buggy motors clones I wanted to try something simple and fast. As the cable is attached I need to reverse 1 motor, ether by a switch or each motor has its own channel but the power gets cut after seconds if on a single receiver. A little better if a receiver for each motor but it only runs if each motor has its own receiver and battery box.
I initially made an independent rear with 2 of the 4L diffs with their 16tooth ends meshing going to 2 drive axles ether side meeting at portal hubs with 2 16 tooth gears, splitting the load from the motors at every step and hopefully surviving. but it ended up being way too wide, even with the diff side universal joints directly in the casing, only supported by the structure around the axle hole( this was surprisingly secure).
So direct drive seemed the only way, with the motors being swingarms but I wanted some amount of uniqueness to it and to slow it down so mounted a 2 speed gearbox to each motor eliminating all uni joints. 1:1 on the slow output and 9:1 on the fast output
but needed a way to actuate the gear ring remotely, an m-motor on each gearbox would be too bulky and couldn't have a gear train that would rotate as the suspension moved. If only I had some flexSystem.
the next best thing is Pneumatics. ether an autovalve( pump and valve from one motor) or a self regulating pump with a valve. Thats a lot of bulk for a single feature though. so Pneumatic suspension, will only be manual as the drive is 2 IR channels(and 2 receivers), Steering and gear change is another 2 IR channels. the pump is on the opposite BB to the steering.
desk driving :https://youtu.be/sMoC7r0YC-M
The front hub's top mount is offset by 1 making the steering axis inclined like on real cars, the effect is probably negligible at this scale. the steering is also really tight.
With simple off the table now I still want it to be fast so the body work will need to be basic, like old technic flex axles makinc simple shapes. like this:
With a little of another concept car the toyota RV2 with the wagon rear that folds out to a tent is my kind of crazy, ridiculous and practical.
How is sits now, with the body sketch I did to try and guide the scale. And all the pneumatic stuff just sitting on top. The large pneumatic rams are too strong to be the 'springs' will need to change the linkage or buy some small rams to swap.
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having 2 driving rings in parallel might help to balance the force over 2 connections instead of 1.
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I really really like this, 4x4 just makes it cooler.
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Got hold of a micromotor that didn't work, pulled it apart and the 3 coils sit on the magnet. the surface of the magnet had deteriorated and was covered in flakes that blocked the coils from rotating. I just scraped the flakes off the top of the magnet untill the coil could rotate freely and reassembled it. I'd guess there was about a mm of material removed. only issue is when it is forced to stop it needs a flick to get going again. I took some pictures after I scraped the surface and stuck them on flikr.
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Update time. Shortened the wheel base, finalised the motor mounts on the axles so the lowest point is the diffs, thanks to the portals that's now 1 stud above the wheel center(or is it hole as its technic?) came up with a cool linked the suspention idea through leavers and a diff to allow free articulation but prevents body roll, ~90° between the axles and minimal spring compression, kinda makes the diff locks superfluous.
Driving the diff in the syspention makes the chassis rock back and forth, might put a loading ramp on the back for a buggy or similar. Partly because most of my panels ared and I don't have enough to build a full body. Still can't work out why one of the mini pneumatic rams isn't working. maybe it needs new grease, if any one know how to fix it that would be greatly apreciated.
would overhauling my Delorean moc and using as the car on the back break the "Entries need to be new" rule?
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8 hours ago, Leonardo da Bricki said:Please correct me if I am wrong.
No correction needed
10 hours ago, Nebulaire said:I have the same idea for this contest !
May the best bus win, although it'll come down to who finnishes.
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My potential entry to the 17th Eurobricks Technic chalenge. Current Idea is a bus thats been given the monster truck treatment, massive lift, 4x4, diff locks, portal axles, power puller wheels, currenty 70 cm long
the diff locks are pneumatic but one of the small pistons is rather sticky for some reason, and the m-motor powered pump can't move it.
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Are we the biggest forum on eurobricks? We're not far behind star wars in post count but well ahead in topics.
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no 3rd party parts. time to put away the RC tires and bust out the PowerPullers
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Didn't know they existed, they're going on my BL wishlist
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Well overdue for a Delorean MOC, to make it stick out from the bunch I've packed some Technic into it as with all my builds. Full independant suspention with working steering.
The Doors open up the steering wheel works, all the fun stuff.
There is about 1 beam width of suspention travel
And a engine under the cover. 33% bigger than the real one, It might make it to 88mph now.
I'm quite proud of the front end, It's probably one of the most complex ive made. I remeber seeing the concept of a virtual Pivot steering,Sariel's I belive, and though it could be expanded on to include suspention, just never got around to trying it. So thanks Sariel.
Underside Steering and suspention
there is a chanel on the underside runing the entire length of the car that would be perfect for a HOG steering shaft to come out under the rear bumper, I just can't figure out a way to connect it up to the steering gears without fauling the mechanism. If you have an idea on how to, I'd love to hear it.
I've now realised the poster is missing part of the car, The rear wheel should be between Marty's legs
By some amazing stroke of luck all of it can be build in LDD, just need to connect one 5beam to the 1.5 pin in the steering and to bend the hood down ~2degrees
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Like they often do my Micro Motor stopped working so I decided to open it up and see if I could fix it.
After rotating the rotor to confirm the gearing was fine I noticed the magnet has started to deteriorate, the surface was flaking apart and blocking the rotor. Used a small knife to scrape all the flaking magnet off until the rotor spun freely.
Using 2 staples in a rubber to hold the brushes in the base open I put it back together and it works fine.
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Thankyou those will help
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I've recently come into possession of a bunch of dacta 9V motors, cables, battery boxes and a few sensors and I'd really like to use them with my PF and NXT stuff.
Does anyone know how to wire up Power function-9V and NXT-9V converter cables? I've got a few damaged cables and would rather make use of them than buy some
Also does anyone know if the rotation sensor can be used with the NXT?
Problem with Mini-9V-Motor
in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Posted
those tiny little fork things in the base need to be spred apart to fit the rotor between them. I had the same issue the firsrt time I put mine back together