F0NIX

What about a solution like this? The Grey and white bricks are your bowling lane. The Brown brick is a headlightbrick, the rest is plates and tiles as you probably can see of the image. This means that you first have to build a brick down first to be able to get that floor behind the lane flush with the lane itself. In the picture it looks like the red tile is not flush with the side of the grey brick, but its just that I forgot to press the bricks good toghether before I took the photo so it is a little off

Fantastic creations! Even if you are inspired by the Swedish house design, the wooden houses could easy be from Norway. We have a lot of those small houses in just this design. The white one could even been made a little larger and still fit as an nice old farmhouse.

This sounds like a good idea and I think it would be easiest to make with the old monorail system from LEGO. The feature you want from the monorail is the steep hills that make the train come up to the surface quickly and goes down quickly. The traditional train take up much space (in length) to get hills that a train is able to climb. As Kyphur mention, you could also make your own monorail system. And if you follow the link you will see that I have built one myself, but the hills is a challenge. Mine can take hills as good as a normal train, but not much steeper. You could probably make some monorail with Technic, Gear Rack 1 x 4 beside the track on hills, and then have a gear beside the wheel that make a better traction for steeper hills... just an idea...

Thank you! No, I do not have more pictures of the model at the moment. I do not have the model at home right now, but I will take more pictures at the next event that will be in Oslo 2-4 November, where this model will go on display along many other creations from Brikkelauget.

Thank you all for the positive feedback. :) Do not feel bad at all! I posted this on a public forum to get feedback. I had hoped for more constructive critique like yours ;) It is on critiques like this I can learn, and get better at creating building like this. But English is not my main language and I dont think I understand your comments correct. Can you describe more what you mean by "the road lines themselves seem to be slightly off"? Do you think the with of the road differs too much in the turns? And I know I should have done more math to that particular thing, to get the turns smoother. The road is slightly wider in the start of the turn than in the middle part. I just started laying tiles on one end and tried to hit the center just in the crossing between all four baseplates :) (and it was not possible since the with of the road had even numbers of studs) Or did you think the with of the pavement was too narrow in the middle? The reason for this is that the buildings are not symmetrical and the slanting walls are not at exactly 45 degrees angle. The buildings should have been a little smaller to get room for wider pavements, and they should have been more symmetrical to make this easier to build. Or was it just the centerline that was not perfectly straight in the middle? Again, it is hard to put a tile in the middle since the with of the road had even numbers of studs. What about height of the pavement? I was first trying to raise the pavement by one plate, but thought the jagged lines beside the road just looked weird.

There are a few exceptions to the statement that all trains will fit on all tracks (without modification). 9467 Monster Ghost Train is one of them. It is a "Push-along-train" and does not fit on LEGO train tracks without any modification. I was just finishing doing the modification to my Ghost Train last night. Have not taken any picture of it yet but I took a sneak peak on this EB post (http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=74702) and found some images to get the idea of what to be done. First you have the locomotive. The two bogies is fixed so without modification it will only go on straight lines. You have to remove two of the bricks with technic pin on top so each bogie will turn independent of each other. Then you have to remove all the wheels on each wagons with train wheels. If you still want the Wings to flap you also need to do a lot of modification to get that working again. You allso need to replace the link between each wagon with something else. In the link I provided, he used chains. I used the old train-magnets and just attached them with a technic pin to a new added technic brick on each end of the wagons. I wanted to use the PF train motor and therefor there was a lot of modification needed to be done to the bogies on the locomotive to be able to fit the PF-train motor. The PF receiver I put in the cabin. I get poor reception because the top of the receiver is hidden. May have to look at that later. I did a new wagon for the battery, but I could have made a heavy modification to the prison wagon to fit the battery. And for other trains, I know there was some other old push-along trains that also needed much modification to make it fit the LEGO train tracks. Not sure wich set it was but I have seen some pictures of it.

Fantastic! And finaly somebody else than me trying out this task of making a small (city-size) vehicle that is remote controlled and out of just LEGO. Hope more people get some inspiration out of this and make other types of vehicle. It would be very fun to watch several vehicles driving around in a minifig-sized city layout at an exhibition :)

14. alex54 - 1 34. Cecilie - 4

This is absolutely the best modular house I have seen so far! I love the color scheme, the details over the windows, the hospital sign, the elevator inside, all the details inside and all the rest :) This also shows that a hospital does not need to be a big white building. Hope you win this contest!

This is my first review of this kind of set, so be nice with me ;) If you want me to change something in the review (writing and grammatical errors or factual errors) please give me a comment and I will fix it. (I have copied the review of 21013 Big Ben by Rufus and tried to keep it similar to that great review.) Review: 21016 Sungnyemun Set Information Name: Sungnyemun Number: 21016 Theme: Architecture (Landmark Series) Release: June 2012 Parts: 328 (my count) Price: Recommended retail price is $34.99 in the US and €34.99 in most European countries. (From Brickset) Links: Brickset, Bricklink I will update the price information, links and the official set description as they become available. The Box The front of the box. As stated on the front of the box, the set is designed by Adam Reed Tucker. The back of the box is more colourful, sporting a scale render of the model, with some pictures of the real building. Content The box opened. 4 Polybags and the instruction manual was inside. Front of the instruction manual looks almost identical to the front of the box. Rear of the instruction manual show the model from another angle. The four polybags with the bricks. At this stage I can not spot any new parts apart from the 1x8 black tile with the text "Sungnyemun" on it. There may be some parts in new colors, like the dark green wings, but I have not checked that yet. Fact page of the real building and first step in the building process. A random page in the instruction manual. The manual seem very dark with the black pages. But there was no problem reading the instructions as the parts have a white outline. The part page seems to be a standard page these days. The build Step 12 in the building process. The base plate is finished. As this was my first Architecture set I was thinking how much different this would be from a standard City set. Step 20 in the building process. The green yard and the start of the brick walls. Step 30 in the building process. The first rows of bricks in the walls done. Many small parts. The two back walls seems to be mirror to each other while the two front walls are different. Step 40 in the building process. Just more brick walls... Step 50 in the building process. The ground walls are finished. Now over to the building on top. First floor is almost done here. The complete set Step 53 and the building is finished. There was a lot of sub-assembly in between the last 4 steps. It is a small building but it is nice. The sloped sidewalls was a nice touch. The finished model together with the instruction manual and the three extra parts. Conclusion This is my first Architecture set so I have no other to compare it with. And I live far away from Korea and have never been there either so I cant compare the model with the real building either. But it was a fun build anyway. I am not sure of the high 12+ year rating on the set. I would say 10+ year as it was a easy construction with no difficult techniques used. Just many small plates on top of each other... Design 7 I have only the images from the real building to compare too and it look very close. Build 9 A quick and easy building experience. Parts 8 This set is not for the people wanting lots of new parts. But Dark green plates is always welcome to me. Value ? Not sure of the value as I got this as a gift from LEGO for taking part of the "Build the Change 2012" event in my home town Tromsø, Norway. Overall 8/10 More pictures can be found here.

What a lovly little house! I just love that little porch and all the details around it. Looks nice with that reddish roof (dark orange or?). A few years back I also made a shot of making a model of a red Swedish house. http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/138761 I see now that I should have made the roof red even if the original had black house.

One tip for better photos is to stand further away (too close and the camera cant get focus at the object) and then zoom in a bit, or just crop the image in some photo editing program. You can even crop the image in Windows Paint ... I have also a hard time getting the right lights even if I have a Canon EOS50D camera. So I try to take the photos outside in the daylight if it is possible. But nice small vigs there anyway. Love how you depict the scenes with so few pieces. Keep them coming! :)

The event "Build the Change" is arranged by LEGO once each year. I'm not sure what country they have held that in, but at least Denmark and Norway. The former years it was held in the larger cities in the south of Norway, and they figured out that they needed to introduce this to other cities too. This easter it was held in both Trondheim and in my city Tromsø. The Norwegian LUG Brikkelauget was asked by LEGO to be with them in this event. We was 6 local members in this region having a large display/layout and acting as "LEGO-profesionals" for the kids. They could ask us things about LEGO and older kids could see that this is a hobby you can have even if you are an adult. We even got some parents that was more interested in LEGO than their kids ;) The event was mainly focused for the kids, and the theme for the event was "build Tromsø city as you think it would be in the year 2112". And LEGO was providing with 500kg of LEGO bricks for the kids to build from.

Since this set is not released yet the other two may come out before or at the same time as this.

Does it bark? And it seems to be in 1:1 scale too? :) Nice dog! Calm now! CALM! Ok, now "SIT!". Good dog....

6box 21016 Sungnyemun just arrived :D

38) 4 votes 14) 3 votes

The good thing about PF (Power Functions) and NXT is that there is a IR-transmitter for the NXT that works very well with the PF system. So you can control a PF-car from a NXT. But there is no way to send signals from PF to the NXT from a sensor. (Not any way I know of...). If you have other ways to control the whereabouts of the vehicle back to the NXT you can have a fully automated car driving around in the city.

Well, yes, I have actually thought of this for some time and started with these: MOD: 7848-1: Toys R Us City Truck MOD: 3221 LEGO City Truck WIP: Micromotor car MOD: Motorized 9390 Mini Tow Truck The two first was done with Power Function and M-motors. The two last is with micromotors. The next thing you need is something to automate the steering... You could either use the Faller Car Principe or put in some Arduino Nano (or something like that) into the car to automate the steering. A fellow Brikkelauget member, Ostehovel, is working with a project with something like a Faller Car but have a sensor connected to the Arduino that senses the magnetic strip under the road and follows it.

And here is some images with the lights in the city layout:

But to make the CV stand out from the rest and give the people that are reading the CV something that they want to know more about or just want to know why you put it on the CV, then I say put LEGO as an big hobby you have. But if you dont feel for it, then stay away. But then again, why ask here then? ;) I know there are big cultural differences around the world for the use of a CV, but in my area (northern Europa) you have to put in something extra in the CV to stand out from the crowd and to have something to be remembered for.

Well the last two jobs I have put in a CV I had mentioned my LEGO hobby. And both was technical jobs as an electronic engineer. I even took with me a little LEGO creation on my last job interview. I also explained that I think my passion for LEGO gets out the creative side of me and it would even boost my creativity in my daily work as I all the time needs to find a technical solution to building something new in LEGO. And this creativity will also be used in my daily work as I often have to find out a technical solution for solving a problem. If you mention LEGO in the CV and explain it in the interview I think you will stand out and be remembered for that. And it is a positive thing :)

Ok, this was an old post I just had to update :) First of all, the LED I mounted in the first post has been shining all the time since the first picture. There are no visible discoloring in any of the Trans Clear minifigheads. They have all been fed with 12v for over a year now. So heat is no problem. And kzv I know the way I was calculating the heat was wrong, but it shows that even if all energy was going as heat it was still not much to worries about. The only heat I got is from the 470ohm resistor when feeding the lights with 12v. We are planing a display here in my town from 30/3 - 9/4 where we are setting up a town layout. The plan was to have this lights in the street in the layout. I will take some pictures when the layout is finished. Here is some pictures of the lights I have made so far.

Hello! I trying out some Custom made LED lights. I have installed LED in the street lamp post and was testing them with the new rechargable PF batterybox. I have turned the orange nob all the way to left and are using a PF-9V cable. All LED's are connected to the 9V plug end in paralell. I have soldered on a 9V plug for each LED and each with their own resistor (470ohm, calculated for 12v). But after a long while (not sure how long yet) the batterybox turns itself off??? I turned it on last night before I got to bed. When I woke up, the power was off and I first thought that either the battery was flat or I forgot to turn it on, so I turned it on again and there was still power on it. Left it on when I went for work. And when I came back from work this evening, it was turned off again... I turned it on 2 hours ago and it is still giving out power. So now I think there is some timer in there. Has anyone else discovered this? Is there a way around it? What will happen if I left the charger on all the time? Will it hurt the batteries? Will the timer still kick in and turn the power off? I'm suspecting some auto shutdown since there are no PF-signaling?

It has gone over 2 hours now and it is still on and still charging... looks good :)