caperberry

Thanks boba - good you have had positive results - to generalise, my research so far suggests those using the creme approach seem to have better results. I'm going to try both. The headless lady with pearls in blue trousers... I'm finding it a little hard to tell her condition in the 'before' pic - feels like a bit of the print got lost, and that her blue trousers have gone rough? Or was she like that already? What was the longest you left the creme on for? [edit] Meant to clarify - by "tricky to get right with Lego" I meant that the results within the vintage computer/gaming communities seem more consistently positive. From the LEGO communities I've found discussing it, reports seem more mixed; plenty of happy customers but also many who didn't get good results, including Rufus if I've read his comments here correctly. I'm trying to figure out if this is something to do with LEGO's ABS formula, or different recipes AFOLs are using, or something else...

Well it's all down to personal taste I guess :O) I'm not a massive fan of long cockpits, but love them in others' MOCs when it's done well. There have been a couple of times I've detested a piece, but grown to like it once I discover some cool connections!

Indeed. But the spooky and cool thing is that uv light not only helps cause the problem, it can use its powers for good and help solve it. It's not permanent. "Here comes the science bit..." ABS used to have bromine added as a flame retardant. But bromine molecules literally vibrate when exposed to uv and detach, becoming free radicals. These move around inside the ABS and bond with oxygen molecules near the surface which causes visible yellowing (as bromine is brown). A bit like teenagers getting drunk at a party and making out with the first person they can, regardless of whether it makes for a good long term marriage (I'm not sure where this metaphor is going.) Years later bromide and oxygen are still attached and languishing in yellowness, but if we throw another party with uv light and invite hydrogen peroxide along, the bromine detaches again but this time hooks up with the far more attractive hydrogen peroxide, which doesn't cause yellowing. So a much better marital resolution and oxygen never really liked that bromine anyway, what a tart. In practice however it seems tricky to get right with Lego. One common issue is using too high a concentration of hydrogen peroxide, which causes the ABS to get unwanted attention rather than the bromine. This makes the plastic surface rough, ruining your pieces. I'm intending to do my own tests soon and will blog about the results. But there's discussion out there on forums and blogs already if you do some searching.

Wha....?! Please tell me you have video.

Now I'm even MORE impressed that you matched the proportions so well. Stunning job. I want that skeleton in my garden to grow creepers on.

There are many ways of creating a '180 degree reversal'; picking the right one depends on your build. In this case I think it could be done by threading two 1x1 round bricks onto a lightsabre blade with their bases facing each other. This construction could then be hidden under the statue, also using a snot brick to attach the base to the statue.

Whilst your argument is flawed I applaud the sentiment. The joy of buying and owning sets is cool but the ability to recreate models from your collection is an aspect to Lego that feels less appreciated as the decades pass. Ole Kirk's House has troubled me. Aside from the stickers, many of us could easily build it. Yet I want to own the set...

The other night I found this new mould in a set. At left, new part 14769; at right the old part 4150. I blogged about it and a reader pointed out the same was done to this part a few years ago, which I've never come across - guess I should actually open my Star Wars Planet sets more often :O) Some readers pointed out an interesting fact about the old style connection that I never knew - a 1X2 plate or brick will sit centrally beneath the X connection.

Play functions look great. The scene with the guy giving a present on the bench is hilarious! Makes me wonder if one of them is his wife...yes, I mean the one on the right.

Won't work for your project I imagine, but here's an interesting and robust way to start some 45 deg building. The 2X2 round brick with grilles can be set at 45 deg by placing the tube onto a stud. It only works with the grille version of that brick. Seemed too neat to be coincidence, so I discussed it with a couple of TLG employees and after some head scratching they agreed it is probably a legal connection. But not one you'd ever see in official instructions as it is not the regularly understood method of connecting pieces. Another thing I like about it is that you can also use it to set a vertical axle at 45 deg.

I find if I write down anything I do recall, however small about any aspect of dreams, I start remembering more of my dreams. Takes a few days to start working. Then I have nightmares I'd rather forget, and the cycle breaks down :D

I bought a stunning example of the 1962 version recently. Never seen a supplementary box in such unfaded condition and the parts look mint.

When/where was this announced Aanchir? I missed that.

How weird to see this thread revived just after a LEGO dream last night! It wasn't nice. I was at some special seminar in Billund but was late and the group had departed to see something fantastic. I decided to make use of my time and wandered round the offices' corridors. I found this mini staff shop that had a polybag - of a packet of cigarettes! I thought wow, they'd never get away with selling this in the UK. (like they would in Denmark?!!) I bought all they had and then felt guilty as none were left for others at the seminar.

I've done very little paid work and have struggled with the same problem. But will make some suggestions as to factors to consider more from my Digital project management experience. Don't underestimate your time. All sorts of things can and will crop up that will require more work. So include some 'padding' in your cost, obviously do not tell them this but it is to protect yourself. Judge your client. Their overall budget should be decent if it's a commercial, depending what the item and brand are. Don't underestimate your value; you're a creative. Not a greedy person just playing with kids' toys. Don't overestimate your value! There are a lot of us out there and sadly they might find someone a lot cheaper. As youve said you're happy just for the experience and that's of value to you. I'd go in at a rate you genuinely feel happy with. If they say no that's fine as negotiation is usually part of the process. Never then turn around and say you can do the same work in less hours. That looks bad. Negotiate the scope - e g do they really need xx models? Do they actually need to be as sturdy as you've assumed? etc. Break costs down in your estimate. Not massively; a few rows. This helps them understand the process is skilled and not that simple. e.g. Model Design, parts purchasing optimisation, final cost of parts. If you're starting in LDD or MLCad maybe CAD Design? If you need to photograph in development to secure approval, allow time for that. You don't want to send crappy pics of your beautiful work. Contingency is a useful weapon to include in budgets. It is common to add a percentage of the total on top as contingency; exactly like the padding I mentioned earlier but this time you're being upfront about it. Literally add it as a row in your cost before the Total. I'd say 8-10% is defendable, so if negotiation occurs you can say in light of this and that (e.g. "my first time working with you") you're happy to halve the contingency to 4-5%. Usually doesn't reduce total cost massively, but tends to go down well with clients. If it goes ahead Get them to draft a contract, to protect both parties in the unlikely case things go wrong.. Include estimated timings of what they'll see when. Also a schedule of payment - aree you happy waiting 30 days after final delivery? If not ask for say 25% up front to cover parts, another 25% at some point and 50% on completion. Hope some of that is of use.

I'd like to study them and find out if fleshies believe in Eugenics.

Hindsight eh? I'm sure if we could time travel we could alert TLG to keep better records ;O) but really, how were they to know how important this would become? Another example - the BBC reused videotapes in the late 'sixties/early 'seventies and wiped loads of television history away, but the only common complaint you hear these days is that they wiped so much Doctor Who. There were loads of other programmes lost forever and barely anyone cares; how were they to know Doctor Who would be so special? The designer of the classic yellow 375 Castle is known, and contributed a new model to Megs Rothrock's excellent LEGO Adventure Book. Highly recommended book!

Yes that cereal is sold in Australia, under the slightly different name Weetbix. Go figure! Fascinating Gary, interesting that fact had been hidden over time. I love the plain boxes they came in.

The ambulance is the most charming. But I loved the Shell sets as a kid so that brought the bIggest smile to my face. Great writing.

918 was the only ship I owned from Wave 1. Very special to me. I loved how the tray in the box turned over to reveal a landing pad. Coincidentally, today I received my second 918 Went for an auction that had no fig, box or instructions as the pieces looked great - and they are Looking forward to seeing your cleaned up version!

Hell yeah! (to both the excellent torsos and the rainbow Spacemen. Dark Blue rocks.) Back on the supports - were the second type ever produced in Light Grey? i.e. if you order a Light Grey support from BL will it always be the first type?

Haha! Brilliant misunderstanding. Puking with envy?

I almost bought my first vehicle + garage on eBay just the other day, a Merc 220 that looked in great condition but I guess the CA accounts for how good these look. Didn't bid very high though... still feels like a slippery slope for me to get into HO! It went for £21, probably a great deal.

I recently bought my first 928 on eBay (I had/have all the wave 1 sets and boxes, except 924 and 928.) and have been considering restoring it. So great to hear a perspective on some of the trials involved, thanks Rufus. I'm interested in the numbered supports, part 3940. Does anyone know why this was done? Did every set come with pieces numbered 1 to 5?

Gorgeous! You could experiment with different types of gables too - for some large scale inspiration I highly recommend Patrick Bosman's amazing Amsterdam models .