Berthil

Correct, sometimes two balls got through when the first is bumped by the second. It was better after I added a weight on top of the stamp but it still happened. I might build the stamp back in with some more weight on it because visually I also liked that one more.

Video ready; It's over a meter tall. Below answers to some questions I had earlier; No math done upfront, only first concept digitally in Stud.io but turned out the strings are shorter in real life, they are longer in Stud.io. I had planned 64 ball pods but there was room for 63 to keep the string tension correct. The correct string tension was a matter of only 2 plates of room in the wheel ring. 2 plates more and tension was too high causing warping of the ring, 2 plates less and strings were too loose to compose a perfect circle. I also expected the inner ring base must be wider to create enough stability for the ring but I started with a thin ring base in the middle. This was enough. It took me a few days to build the ring with correct string tension while flat on the table. It was possible to lift it up flat from the table without the 3mm tubing, and tilt vertical. But it is a delicate equilibrium, it collapsed a few times on me when building the wheel base under it. With the 3mm hose it is pretty stable, I can wobble it quite a bit (in video). It is possible to put it in upright position on a couch with no additional support. Also tilting to flat position is possible as mentioned earlier, even without the 3mm hose. That surprised me too. I've had it together for three weeks now, the strings show no sign of stretching, probably because these are made of synthetic fiber and stress is not high enough to stretch them. Although I can say a large amount of force is needed to close the ring while assembling, really pushing the ring ends apart hard before it can be closed. All it all it was a big gamble to invest a substantial sum of money in purchasing the strings on Bricklink before I even knew this was possible so I'm very happy with the result.

I remember an interview or presentation during the online AFOL day from the LEGO House in 2021, where it was stated by wording the color vomit is for instruction clarity AND pleasing AFOLs who want parts in (odd or new) colors. Or it was another online meeting with LUG Ambassadors, not sure.

Ball entry and exit also done, with this de Ferris wheel is finished. It works very well. When the TC23 entry topic opens up I will publish the video.

Looks interesting! There are pushers out there but not at this scale and not with this pattern so definitely something new. Good luck with finishing it.

Always anti clockwise, left to right viewing as visitor, right to left as exhibitor behind the modules.

The Ball Supply is ready for the Ferris Wheel. For some years I wanted make a straight line mechanism based on several concept movements out there. So this is my adapted version (link to sources in the video description).

I was warned that string length would be very inconsistent but this is build with no adjustment, all strings are positioned the same, no twisting of strings or turning of string ends. I will do that in the fine tuning if needed but so far I'm impressed with what is possible with the strings as they are. I bought them in two batches with 3 years in between, this is not one batch but all of them I bought as new.

I love it when a plan comes together, that sweet spot where theory meets practice. The wheel has been build with real bricks and 128 strings and holds together very well! As expected the tension on the strings by adjusting the outer diameter is very important. What I did not expect was that this was just by 2 plates thickness! 2 plates more and the tension was too high causing the outer ring to warp, 2 plates less and not enough tension on the strings to hold everything together. Next step is building the wheel drive by placing 4 rubber wheels on the side of the Ferris wheel.

All parts are in for the Ferris Wheel with 64 ball pods, I hope the actual build will go as planned i my head :)

Added the support structure with ... support part 64448 with beams inside for structural locks. The linear actuator at the top is for creating a healthy and adjustable tension in the top triangle where the removable Ferris wheel rests on rotatable tires. Next step is creating the bottom frame suitable for Ferris wheel drive and ball preparation/entry. After that completing the Ferris wheel itself and test if the strings will work to keep it all together.

I've used this 0,04 wire. https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/210-10-draad-2-x-0-04-mm-rood-zwart-10-m-1437320.html One color of this wire fits under the groove of tiles. I know some use 0,01mm wire without jacket in ships. It fits between bricks but it breaks very easily and not advised to use. If you have on old small (broken) electro motor it is possible to use the wire of the coil.

Looks promising and haven’t seen this mechanism as a GBC yet, very original.

Good start! I assume this system will be based on the Akiyuki train? This is no problem as basically the train is the drive in this system and the mechanical logic is in the module(s).

No objections from my side 👍

Exactly what I was thinking too, exit the balls on top onto a bridge, don’t have one at the moment.

Looks good. You can use any color you like for the yellow parts as that isn't visible when finished (also stated in the description on Rebrickable).

Use the Pybricks, take my program, flash to the City Hub (tutorial on Pybricks.com) and you're ready to go. No device needed, train keeps running, 2 speed steps, emergency stop. It's always possible to go back to the original LEGO firmware on the hub, very easy.

Thanks Thorsten for your excellent answer. It did not cross my mind Billy is trying to use the out-of-the-box (dis)functionality of the remote with the hub and without device. On Rebrickable I have posted the Pybricks program with power stepping at the time of publishing.

I don't know if the 88008 can do that as I didn't try that yet. Sometimes it can help to read all the posts in a topic. I expect it will run at different speeds with the 88008 In any case, this train will be a battery drainer because of its size, probably also with the 88008. You could try to switch to PF and use the rechargeable 8878 battery box if you have those lying around. When I have more time I want to add a UP SD70 to my setup to aid the Big Boy. The plan is to have them controlled by one PU system with Pybricks that will work together at lower and higher speeds for smooth running like in real life.

@BillytheKid This is because of the limited torque of the PU small motors unfortunately. It has trouble to get moving so it seems only one speed is possible although the motor is running on the different speeds. see the earlier remark of Toastie, I wan't aware of this. It's on my to-do list to see if I can get two PU L-motors in, they have a lot more torque.

Great start and looking forward to the progress reports. Are you planning on using the tracks as carrier or may be a carrier of own design?

Very interesting and will be fun to see the progress! In the GBC rules 3rd part PF motors and 3rd party cables are allowed as these are hard to get. I'm sure the cables and case is not a problem but may be @Jim can comment after his holiday. As for the Raspberry Pi, why use that to control and not an EV3 or other Mindstorms unit?

@GerritvdG Many use the Quercetti balls so perfectly fine to use them.

We are very much looking forward to see what 'GBC novices' come up with bringing experiences from area's they are familiar with and translate this to a GBC :)