deehtha

If this is motorized, the receiver is new. I don't see an antenna or the telltale ir receiver bump. The panels on the inside of the front fenders look like another pair of the new curved panels

There looks to be about 14 of the new gear rack. It looks like they are designed as quarter arcs. It also looks like the structure is a little weak, you can see the back half of the arm sagging a little. Are the tracks in black and dbg?

Holy panels, batman! Does it loon like there is a curved 3x7 or 3x9 at the upper front of the door, and in front of the upper rear fender? I think I see 47 panels, but I think there is more.

Did some more work on my b model. After playing around with various types of suspension, I decided to drop suspension on axles 1 and 3. Each wheel on the middle axle is sitting on a backwards trailing arm with no shock, so that they are almost always in contact with the ground. The engine is mounted in the middle, with the front wheels being driven. The chassis is articulated between the last two axles. I am thinking something like this for the bodywork, but in blue and white instead of green. http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2010/03/03/march-military-campaign-the-most-powerful-wheeled-vehicle-in-the-world/ I am debating whether I should continue the articulation into the bodywork, or hide it under the body.

It would be especially nice if the camera car was to with Bluetooth and had a camera that was displayed within the Bluetooth control app

Shouldn't the torque also decrease as voltage decreases?

The WeDo 2.0 is hopefully a small subset of what PF 2 will be. Since stacking motors on one output is common, maybe there will be a extension/multi-port hub.

I wasn't happy with how the buggy was turning out so I tried something different. So far it a mid-engined 6 wheeled something. All three axles will be pendular with the last 2 axles linked so the truck doesn't lean to one side. V8 engine connected to 1 wheel on each of the rear axles. I'm thinking this will either be a generic trial truck type vehicle or an airport rescue truck. 2 studs seems to be the maximum lift on either rear axle. All 4 tires are on the ground.

If I use stickers on the a model, do I have to use those same stickers on the b model. Can I use different stickers on b model? On my a model I had to use two beam that have stickers on them. I placed the beams so the stickers could only be seen when the hood of the truck was open. Can I use those beams with the stickers visible on the b-model?

Maybe it's the missing fire truck?

Speaking of hard coupling motors and the chance of breaking the gears, has anyone broken the internal gearing on any motor?

Photoshopped or from 8448?

The ford GT would be interesting for the IP car, especially if they use blue like the GT that was at the Detroit Auto Show. We need more blue panels. And not another weird shade of blue either.

No, unfortunately I no longer leaning towards a 6 wheeler. Did try to make a dually, low ride, extended cab pickup. Couldn't get the rear axle sturdy enough

Dismantled the truck and have begun the b-model. All of my parts I think it will be some sort of dune buggy/sand rail with a V4 engine. Large versions of my final pictures for the A-Model can be found in my brickshelf folder as soon as it is available: http://www.brickshel...ry.cgi?f=560991

Can anyone suggest a good way to combine video for this contest, or should I have a separate video for each model. Also, any word on the prizes?

I had to spend a few hours at the hospital today, so I messed with LDD for the first time. There were a couple of spots where I could not get the pieces to line up perfectly and some pieces I could not find in the inventory. If someone wants to try to fix it that would be great. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/steater/TC9/trophy_truck.ldr http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/steater/TC9/trophy_truck.lxf

I would rather have new suspension pieces to get proper steering geometry rather than brakes or a clutch.

A Model is now complete. As soon as I can get some good light I will get some pictures. The hood is a little longer than I had intended, but that is dictated by the engine. There was some friction in the drivetrain that I figure out. The front shocks are attached to the engine with at the ends. I had put the cross section on the axle that holds the cylinder heads in place thinking this would keep things tight. Turns out that connection is not 100% legal. Turned the piece around and the friction went away. Also allowed me to remove the yellow half bushes and gave the truck a nice roll when turning. Without the yellow half bushes I can shrink the front end a full stud, but I really don't want to reengineer that part for the 10+ time. I redesigned the rear shock mount/spare mount. I had to move the spare tires in and down 2 studs. Simple cabin. I think I'm gonna swap the seat for blue. I only have that piece in yellow right now. Found the pictures from version 1. I started with the body, so I could get the dimensions right First version of the front suspension. This was functional, but I made the mistake of trying to add caster angle to the suspension. Ground clearance ended up being just over 1 stud, and the bottom of the body hit the ground before the shocks were even halfway compressed And finally the first version of the chassis with the engine mounted and hooked up to the rear wheels. Many issues with ground clearance and trying to get steering to line up.

The wheels are the same size as the unimog wheels. Those might be easier to come by

The problem with this type of system is that you would have to have some way of assigning the motor to a specific control on the actual controller. And you would want it simple so you would use a 1-2 digit identifier. Which means lego would have to have multiple versions of each motor to reduce the chances of a set have 3 motors with the same ID. This would drive cost up. Having individual physical ports keeps cost down and makes it more intuitive to match the port to a control.

I played with the front suspension geometry a little and hardened it up a little bit. It was so soft it would compress just from rolling along carpet. Rear shock mounts are done. So far the soft LBG shocks provide reasonable stiffness, and replicate the sinking look of a trophy truck decently at this scale. Spare tire mount is mostly done. Might find a way to tighten it down a little I still need to clean up the rear and add an interior. flyboy01: If there are any angles that would help you to recreate it, let me know and I will try to upload some photos. Samer: Those stickers and panels came from 42000. You can see them on the sides of the front wing. Definitely, one of my favorite stickers.

Kinda like 8448. You built the chassis and then chose what body to put on top of it. That would be better for either of those, rather than a b model.p

It is based heavily on this http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=109214 The supports for the shocks are mounted at the ends and on a 5l or 7l beam that runs through the camshaft. When I get home I will see if I can get some better pictures of it.

Some more updates Finished the front end I dropped the brush guard, not something desert race trucks have I switched to the hard yellow shocks. I also added a stop to keep tires from hitting the fenders Steering and rear suspension is hooked up. Need to secure rear shocks and switch to hard ones. I also need to mount the spare tires and shorten the lower part of the chassis, and put in some sort of dashboard. Gonna drop the 2 speed transmission, just not enough room. Not quite sure about the cabin steering wheel.