Lixander`s lodge - W.I.P.`s and MOC`s

[Aurorasaurus]

Wouldnt the base of the pneumatic cylinder in the front suspension get hit when the wheel turns?

[Lixander]

16 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

Wouldnt the base of the pneumatic cylinder in the front suspension get hit when the wheel turns?

Well, I haven`t tested as I dont have the small cylinders, but still I dont think it will hit the wheel hubs, as the steering arms of the front wheel hub is under that pin.

Also, I am not sure if I put in here the Off-road buggy V3.2 or V4, which is based on the 42124 set which has the same name. I managed to finish test-building the V4 too but it is too big to take photos and most likely I will test-run the 2x motors Beach buggy along with the V4 buggy.

 

Edited March 3 by Lixander

[2GodBDGlory]

7 hours ago, Lixander said:

Well, I haven`t tested as I dont have the small cylinders, but still I dont think it will hit the wheel hubs, as the steering arms of the front wheel hub is under that pin.

I just built a quick mockup of that module, and I don't think the wheel will be hitting the cylinder, but I found that the steering hub did hit it and limit the range of motion, so it might be better to flip that hub the other way around, if possible

[Lixander]

12 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

I just built a quick mockup of that module, and I don't think the wheel will be hitting the cylinder, but I found that the steering hub did hit it and limit the range of motion, so it might be better to flip that hub the other way around, if possible

Thanks. So in this way (flipping the wheel hubs), won`t hit anything?

[2GodBDGlory]

2 hours ago, Lixander said:

Thanks. So in this way (flipping the wheel hubs), won`t hit anything?

I don't think so, no

[Lixander]

14 minutes ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

I don't think so, no

I am pretty confused now........so flipping the front wheel hubs solve the problem after all?

[2GodBDGlory]

31 minutes ago, Lixander said:

I am pretty confused now........so flipping the front wheel hubs solve the problem after all?

Sorry, I guess that was unclear! I meant that no, they won't hit anything. So yes, it should solve the problem

[Lixander]

12 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Sorry, I guess that was unclear! I meant that no, they won't hit anything. So yes, it should solve the problem

That's ok.Thanks again ;))

[Lixander]

New baja-truck in the making - RC Trophy-truck.

It has the usual positive caster-angle on front and the 2x buggy-motors but for a 4x4 wheel-drive and a Geekservo for steering because of the small space. For the fully independent suspension it uses 4x hard 6.5L shocks.

Also, it has a detachable body-work and pin-holes for installing lights (4x lights at rear and 5 or 4 in front).

Moreover, because of the arrangement of the motors, the small space and the pretty restrictive proportions for calling it a ”Trophy-truck”, the model uses a Geekservo for the steering, as I said, this implying the need of a partly dedicated set-up. So the RC Trophy-truck will be fully functional only with additional remote control parts; to be more precise 1x receiver and transmitter pack, 1x battery and 1x ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) that can handle 2x buggy motors but that will also not damage them (usually, hobby-grade ESC`s are not suitable as on long runs the motors will get burned).

I am also aware that some points need more ”strength”, such as some areas on the body-work and also the stiffness of the suspension. I already made a few changes to the front-end of the front fenders, as the outer edges might fall-out easily.

                                                                                                                                   

Edited March 11 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

On 3/4/2024 at 11:37 AM, Lixander said:

Thanks. So in this way (flipping the wheel hubs), won`t hit anything?

Idk if it was said before, but why not to put cylinder in the same position as spring is?

[Lixander]

1 hour ago, NoEXIST said:

Idk if it was said before, but why not to put cylinder in the same position as spring is?

That is a even better solution! Thanks!

[Lixander]

New speed record which was made yesterday - around 16 km/h / 10 mph on flat terrain and 18km/h / 11 mph when descending a pretty small hill.

This was made with the Off-road buggy V4 - ”Ultimum” buggy, for which I still have to tie-up the Studio file. I used the large 56mm wheels fitted with 1.9” tires for RC models, which offer a top-speed increase but lower the torque drastically for medium models at least.

Also, if you ever observed that the screenshots with the speed values have unaligned text, that is because I translate them, as the application for the smartwatch is in Romanian and I didnt managed to change the language yet.

So, if you wonder how a ”stock” screenshot looks like, here it is.

Moreover, the 2x motors Beach buggy seems to be a failure because of the friction that the drive axles have, most likely due to the angle at which the rear suspension-arms are, but that angle is not so big  I will see what I can do about that, but I am pretty sure the 2x motors version will be dumped.

Edited March 17 by Lixander

[Lixander]

So....the Ultimum buggy is done! You can find the instructions on Rebrickable.

Unfortunately, I don`t think there is enough space in the model to put a BuWizz 3.0 in it.

 

[Lixander]

The chassis of the Flat baja-truck MAXX is near to its first outdoor run!

Opposed to the prototype, the version that I am testing has 4x buggy motors, 4x hard 9.5L shocks and 2x hard 6.5L shocks. For the first run at least, I fitted the model with 1.9 in tires for RC trucks which have an outer diameter of around 120 mm / 4.72 in.

Sadly, I cant see any benefits of having 0 studs between the suspension arms, a concept I wanted to test. I had put the prototype`s render of the rear frame too, to have a better view of the concept. 

 

Edited March 27 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

There is an issue that you're making in some of the chassises. Would be much better if you'll make your drive shafts the same length as your suspension levers are. Your drive shafts will remain the same length in whole suspension travel.

[Lixander]

10 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

There is an issue that you're making in some of the chassises. Would be much better if you'll make your drive shafts the same length as your suspension levers are. Your drive shafts will remain the same length in whole suspension travel.

So basically make the drive-shaft the same length as the suspension arm?

Also, on the Flat baja MAXX is hard due to the distance between the arms. The tests version uses 1x CV joint of the new kind on each end connected with a 5.5L axle with center stop.

Edited March 27 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

12 minutes ago, Lixander said:

So basically make the drive-shaft the same length as the suspension arm?

Also, on the Flat baja MAXX is hard due to the distance between the arms. The tests version uses 1x CV joint of the new kind on each end connected with a 5.5L axle with center stop.

Sort of. It's geometrically correct to have drive shaft same length and parallel to your suspension arms. In case of your buggy: I would make shorter arms and make mounts wider. Your CV joints will work with less angle, which is better for them

[Lixander]

I see. I will shorten the suspension arms for sure.

Thanks!

11 hours ago, NoEXIST said:

I would make shorter arms and make mounts wider.

Also, what do you mean by ”mounts”?

P.S.: The model doesnt have any problem caused by the drive-shafts from what I have seen until now.

 

Edited March 28 by Lixander

[NoEXIST]

1 hour ago, Lixander said:

I see. I will shorten the suspension arms for sure.

Thanks!

Also, what do you mean by ”mounts”?

P.S.: The model doesnt have any problem caused by the drive-shafts from what I have seen until now.

 

In case of render you posted, making 7 studs between levers 

[Lixander]

28 minutes ago, NoEXIST said:

In case of render you posted, making 7 studs between levers 

Oke.....so make the suspension arms wider.

Edited March 28 by Lixander

[Lixander]

Welp, the Tamiya BBX replica is finally on Rebrickable.

Also, can someone help me remake the decals for the Lego panels, please?

                                                                                                                                                                                                

 

[Lixander]

Last picture of the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”, which was a mess basically.

The concept was full of errors, heavy, under-powered, with a saggy suspension and a heavy original body-work. That is why I tried putting 6x buggy motors and made a new buggy body-work for it, but the gears kept skidding, so I just scrapped it.

I worked almost continuously for over 1 month on the concept, a considerable period of time for me.

 

Edited April 15 by Lixander

[Lixander]

I gave a chance to the small retro buggy concept from the beginning of the topic...........and I am excited for this thing, I don't know exactly why. Anyway, the test-building went much more smoother than the last thing - the ”Flat baja-truck MAXX”.

Speaking of it, the new buggy is quite the opposite of the Flat baja MAXX.........small, robust and fast.

It runs with 1x servo, 1x buggy motor geared for speed from the speed output and 8x hard 6.5L shocks. I know how that sounds (virtually no torque), but after some tests, I managed to get the model to run pretty much perfectly with the original gearing coupled to the speed output of the motor. Not to forget, the model has around 800 g / 1.75lbs / 28.21 oz with the hub.

It uses the same front assembly as the Tamiya BBX BB-01 replica and the Flat baja II, more exactly the Flat baja`s II V2 front assembly with 2x pairs of hard 6.5L shocks (the Tamiya replica uses 1x pair of 9.5L hard / extra-hard shocks).

Still have to test-run the model properly in a park, but so far it performed great indoor with the small improvements I made, which are simplifying the rear wing, adding more structural integrity, especially at rear and putting the new CV joints where I could and where I couldn't, I replaced the plastic U-joints with some cheap metal U-joints.

Also, even if the 1.55 inches tires look a bit too big, there are offering much more grip and height than the 75mm spiked tires or the bigger tires and there are better even than the 94 mm balloon tires (which have about the same size with the 1.55 inches RC tires).

Note: the ruler in the 3rd image is 30 cm / around 12 inches.

If you didn't observed the hub in any image, here it is.........hided in the rear wing.

Spoiler

And, today I came across an old Racer set from 2007 - the 8138 ”Phantom crasher”, and I really liked how it looked. So, I tried to reconstruct it on the same chassis as my retro styled buggy..............this is the result. Most likely, I would also test this body-work too. 

Edited Wednesday at 05:23 PM by Lixander