A small request for help with my Lego Emerald Night

[Brickticks]

Hello.  I’m making this post to ask for some help with my Emerald Night.  You see, I removed most of the drive train from the loco so it would have less friction to allow for the 9V train motor I put in the tender to have an easier time running the train.  However, I’ve recently noticed that my poor little 9V train motor needs a little help pushing the loco and three coaches.  So, I’m considering trying to reinstall the drive train and running a wire from the 9V train motor to another non-train motor in the cab of the loco, thus giving the loco two sources of tractive effort.  Problem is, I’m not sure which Lego motor I should use in the cab of the loco to give it the proper speed and pulling power to match the 9V train motor I the tender.  After all, the motor in the cab will obviously have to go through the internal gears of the drive train, and the large train wheels will obviously move differently due to their larger size in ratio to their RPM, in comparison to the smaller 9V motor’s wheels in ratio to their RPM.

So, I obviously have no idea what kind of math I would need to do here to determine the absolute deviation of rpm speeds for the motor in the cab when powered by the tender mounted 9V train motor so that it will run the large train wheels in the correct ratio compared to the 9V train motor.  So, does anybody have any idea how I should go about this and what motor I should put in the cab to get the correct rpm output of the large train wheels?

 

Basically I’m trying to double head my Emerald Night without needing a second loco.

 

Anyways, if somebody could help me with this, it’d be much obliged.  Thank you.  Rockatoa, Brickticks out!

[zephyr1934]

The PF XL motor in the cab should be enough to pull anything that is light enough it will not break the magnetic couplers. So what might be best for you is a dead 9v motor (with the motor removed but electrical intact) as a power pickup for a PF XL motor in the EN cab. Other folks have fit two L motors in the boiler, which is another option.

[BillytheKid]

Some sort the same problem, I had. Skip to power the loco itself. No motor will be strong enough to pull the whole train when expended with extra wagons, like I did . I added 3 extra wagons, so I needed a better solution for more pulling power. I used a double tender, both has an 12v motor connected with a wire. That should you do also, a double 9v motor and connect them with a wire. That you get this result:

I found out at internet that the flying scotmann went to USA for promotion after restoring the whole engine and got there a double tender also, because for more water and fuel of the long distances it had to drive.

 

In mine opnion this set is the most beautifull train to look at when running at (any) lay-out. Not too big, like the Big Boy I build  and no to small like a small playable train for kids .

Edited November 27, 2023 by BillytheKid

[zephyr1934]

1 hour ago, BillytheKid said:

I used a double tender, both has an 12v motor connected with a wire.

Good idea, another option would be a tender long enough to have two train motors underneath, but that will be over 20 studs so it might be difficult to make it fit well with the locomotive. Which leads to yet another option- keep your locomotive and tender unchanged, instead put another train motor under one of the cars.

[BillytheKid]

If you make a long tender (which I tried too), that does look bad. It's a long low wagon, which is same length of longer than engine itself.
 

I understand that people motorize the wagons behind it, to no to chance the set itself. That's silly in mine opnion. The sport is to motorize the engine itself. When keep that in mind, try to motorize the BigBoy . I did it, but that's a hell to control it and I guess the driver of the real one share that opnion .

[PopsicleLEGO]

Did you find a solution? Did you go he XL motor?