[MOC] 1:8 Porsche 911

[mihao]

Hi,

I’m excited to share my latest MOC, a new build I’ve been working on recently—a replica of the newest Porsche 911. This project was both a design and engineering challenge, as I wanted to make it not only visually accurate but also highly playable and functional. Unlike a static display model, this MOC is designed to interact with, explore, and motorize, which required balancing realism, functionality, and structural efficiency.

In addition to the standard features you’d expect - independent suspension, fully working steering with HOG control, an opening front hood, and spring-loaded doors, I focused on two key goals that I think make this model unique:

1. A removable body: The entire body shell can be easily detached from the chassis, just like the real car, making maintenance, motorization upgrades, or interior access simple and straightforward.

2. A full-size cockpit: The interior is scaled large enough to comfortably fit a 1:8 action figure, allowing for more immersive play and display possibilities.

To achieve the spacious cockpit and maintain a manageable weight, I made a deliberate trade-off: this model does not include a gearbox or shifting mechanism. Removing these components freed up the interior space and helped reduce the weight, which is critical for motorization. The model is fully ready to be powered with one PU 4-channel hub, three PU L-motors, and a set of PU LED lights. While it won’t achieve high speeds due to its current mass, the motors provide enough torque for smooth, realistic movement, and I’m still exploring ways to trim weight and improve efficiency.

Speaking of the PU system, I did encounter an interesting design challenge with the new LED lights. Unlike the old Power Functions bulbs, which could be securely pressed into a Technic pin hole and stay in place, the new PU lights are slightly thinner and no longer lock in by friction. This means I had to think carefully about brackets or support structures to prevent them from sliding out. It’s a small detail, but it highlights how subtle changes in LEGO parts can impact design decisions - especially when working in tight spaces like the headlight area.

Overall, this MOC was a fun exploration of both aesthetics and playability. I’m excited to continue refining it, experimenting with weight reduction, and exploring creative ways to integrate the PU system without compromising the design.

Here are some pictures of the build. Your comments and feedback are very welcome!

 

 

 

Update on 11/28: Fixed the headlights based on comments:

 

Edited November 29, 2025 by mihao

[SNIPE]

Nice MOC, can we get more info on the manual and motorized functions it has?

[mihao]

37 minutes ago, SNIPE said:

Nice MOC, can we get more info on the manual and motorized functions it has?

for manual:

• opening hood
• opening spring loaded doors
• independent suspension on all wheels
• flat-6 engine, linkage to rear wheels.
• steering wheel linked to front wheels, and HOG
• detachable body from chassis
• tunable spoiler (wing)
• 1:8 action figure ready cockpit. :)

motorized functions include:

• 2xPU L motors for propulsion
• 1xPU L motor for steering
• 1xPU LED for headlights. (Need an 25cm extension)
• 4-channel PU hub. The good part of it is to connect with BrickController2 app and use a console controller to play.

 

 

 

[steph77]

For me this is the best rendition to date if this magnificent car. Well done.

On a side note I would have preferred a full manual model than a full rc but this is just my opinion. Well done again!

[Lipko]

Beautiful model, my only complaint is that the headlight looks a bit cheap being that transparent. I know it contains actual light, but it just looks off in the otherwise awesome bodywork.

[Paul B Technic]

Amazing work :)

[1gor]

Your MOC looks as you have nailed proportions of real car, and color is spot on. 

[2GodBDGlory]

That is a seriously clean-looking model; nice work!

That's a real shame about the new LEDs! That was a super important feature!

[mihao]

On 11/25/2025 at 12:54 AM, steph77 said:

For me this is the best rendition to date if this magnificent car. Well done.

On a side note I would have preferred a full manual model than a full rc but this is just my opinion. Well done again!

Yes, many people like manual module more than RC ones. Because I want to put in a 1:8 figure, the remaining space in the cockpit doesn't allow to make complex shifting and gearbox. Thanks.

 

On 11/25/2025 at 1:02 AM, Lipko said:

Beautiful model, my only complaint is that the headlight looks a bit cheap being that transparent. I know it contains actual light, but it just looks off in the otherwise awesome bodywork.

If you mean the red lift arm behind the headlight, I've thought about that. This lift arm serves as important structure to keep the body together, and it has to be red otherwise there will be a black line on the body. Thought about adding some black pieces to cover it up, but that needs to move the headlight forward which will be way off from the original. A remedy will be some sticker on the lift arm to cover it up. What do you think?

 

On 11/25/2025 at 1:15 AM, Paul B Technic said:

Amazing work :)

Thank you.

On 11/25/2025 at 2:08 AM, 1gor said:

Your MOC looks as you have nailed proportions of real car, and color is spot on. 

Thank for the LEGO scale modeler where I can measure the build with a blueprint precisely. To make it all red is not easy, I have to use many self-painted parts such as the turning small panel and the new taller fender part from P1. But I am glad I can finally put them together here. :)

 

14 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

That is a seriously clean-looking model; nice work!

That's a real shame about the new LEDs! That was a super important feature!

Thanks. The LED is still a bit lose though I found a way to keep them in place. LEGO should really improve it.

[Lipko]

8 minutes ago, mihao said:

If you mean the red lift arm behind the headlight, I've thought about that. This lift arm serves as important structure to keep the body together, and it has to be red otherwise there will be a black line on the body. Thought about adding some black pieces to cover it up, but that needs to move the headlight forward which will be way off from the original. A remedy will be some sticker on the lift arm to cover it up. What do you think?

 

Not the liftarm, but the fact the headlight is a transparent and featureless dish. Something behint it even if it moves it forward, half stud may be enough without compromising the proportions too much. But maybe it's just me. I remember struggling with the headlight for my latest motorcycle for at least 10 hours and having like 3 major versions and who know how many sub-versions.

[N1K0L4]

Great representation! Especially like the rear. I appreciate you made the body removable, that way you can see the chassiss easier.

On 11/25/2025 at 8:00 AM, mihao said:

flat-6 engine, linkage to rear wheels.

Linkage driven fake engine? How does that work? Also if could you take some pictures of the chassis in the rear, curious how you packaged things with motors, fake engine, suspension and everything.

On 11/25/2025 at 7:08 AM, mihao said:

Speaking of the PU system, I did encounter an interesting design challenge with the new LED lights. Unlike the old Power Functions bulbs, which could be securely pressed into a Technic pin hole and stay in place, the new PU lights are slightly thinner and no longer lock in by friction. This means I had to think carefully about brackets or support structures to prevent them from sliding out. It’s a small detail, but it highlights how subtle changes in LEGO parts can impact design decisions - especially when working in tight spaces like the headlight area.

Interesting, I don't have that problem, in my experience they work as before. Maybe you wore them out or something? You could also add a custom "sticker" in form of a bit of tape to get more thickness to hold it in place.

[gyenesvi]

The overall shaping looks really nice, and I like that the body is removable, and that the chassis can be motorized. Did you consider adding a 3rd drive motor instead of the lights to achieve a good speed? Also, a lot depends on the batteries. A Buwizz 3 could help, and it would also give you two extra PF ports, where you could add more lights, that would maybe also solve your size problem with the old vs new lights.

My main complaint about the lights would be that red liftarm that goes through it. I understand it has a structural role, but I'd definitely try to work around it somehow, as for me it ruins the otherwise clean look. I think one structural problem is that those fender pieces are not attached on either the outer or the inner side. Fixing them somehow, maybe on the inner end could be a possible solution.

8 hours ago, mihao said:

To make it all red is not easy, I have to use many self-painted parts

I think you should definitely mention this in the intro though, so that people don't get surprised that it's actually not buildable from genuine lego parts.

 

[mihao]

10 hours ago, N1K0L4 said:

Great representation! Especially like the rear. I appreciate you made the body removable, that way you can see the chassiss easier.

Linkage driven fake engine? How does that work? Also if could you take some pictures of the chassis in the rear, curious how you packaged things with motors, fake engine, suspension and everything.

Interesting, I don't have that problem, in my experience they work as before. Maybe you wore them out or something? You could also add a custom "sticker" in form of a bit of tape to get more thickness to hold it in place.

By "linkage", I mean the fake engine connected with rear wheel by axle/gears, also connected with the motor. Here are the pictures. Two motors on each side drive a 28 tooth, and these two 28-tooth will drive a 12 tooth in the middle which directly goes into the differential. The other side of the differential will go to the dummy engine. I can't think of any better way to connect them to preserve the efficiency.

About the PU light, I compare it with PF light, can't tell the difference visually. I guess it is just some slight diameter difference at the bottom of the bulb which change the grid when pushing into a pin hole. I believe that the PU light I got from bricklink is a genuine one, because I can see "2015 LEGO" on the middle block. It may be defective, but I can't tell because I don't have another. Someone owning PU light can please confirm. Anyway, if it is just a defective, I'd to use a piece of tape to fix it. Good idea!

4 hours ago, gyenesvi said:

The overall shaping looks really nice, and I like that the body is removable, and that the chassis can be motorized. Did you consider adding a 3rd drive motor instead of the lights to achieve a good speed? Also, a lot depends on the batteries. A Buwizz 3 could help, and it would also give you two extra PF ports, where you could add more lights, that would maybe also solve your size problem with the old vs new lights.

My main complaint about the lights would be that red liftarm that goes through it. I understand it has a structural role, but I'd definitely try to work around it somehow, as for me it ruins the otherwise clean look. I think one structural problem is that those fender pieces are not attached on either the outer or the inner side. Fixing them somehow, maybe on the inner end could be a possible solution.

I think you should definitely mention this in the intro though, so that people don't get surprised that it's actually not buildable from genuine lego parts.

 

Adding a third motor is possible but not easy. The only place I can see is between two seats, and adding a motor there will have to elevate the center console. I also need to figure out the new gear ratio so all 3 motors can input the same torque. Another reason I don't want to give up the headlight is that it gives a soul to this build. :)

My understanding of your complaint is the gap around the headlight towards the fender parts. Maybe I should try to use the 4X4 dish or find a way to make the two fender parts closer to each other. 

For the self-painted parts, it won't be a problem when publishing instructions on RB, because it now requires the part list matches with the picture, so it can't be red for sure. It can only be an orange/bright light orange mixed one due to the color availability. (Black is not an option this time, because the new tall fender part.) 

 

12 hours ago, Lipko said:

Not the liftarm, but the fact the headlight is a transparent and featureless dish. Something behint it even if it moves it forward, half stud may be enough without compromising the proportions too much. But maybe it's just me. I remember struggling with the headlight for my latest motorcycle for at least 10 hours and having like 3 major versions and who know how many sub-versions.

Yes, I need to see how aggressive a half stud move will be against the overall proportion but completely agree with you that the headlight part is challenging considering the front wheel turning clearance, aesthetics, and the naughty LED lights.

Edited November 27, 2025 by mihao

[mihao]

On 11/26/2025 at 12:05 PM, gyenesvi said:

The overall shaping looks really nice, and I like that the body is removable, and that the chassis can be motorized. Did you consider adding a 3rd drive motor instead of the lights to achieve a good speed? Also, a lot depends on the batteries. A Buwizz 3 could help, and it would also give you two extra PF ports, where you could add more lights, that would maybe also solve your size problem with the old vs new lights.

My main complaint about the lights would be that red liftarm that goes through it. I understand it has a structural role, but I'd definitely try to work around it somehow, as for me it ruins the otherwise clean look. I think one structural problem is that those fender pieces are not attached on either the outer or the inner side. Fixing them somehow, maybe on the inner end could be a possible solution.

... ...

 

On 11/25/2025 at 1:02 AM, Lipko said:

Beautiful model, my only complaint is that the headlight looks a bit cheap being that transparent. I know it contains actual light, but it just looks off in the otherwise awesome bodywork.

I reworked on these comments in terms of the headlight and the front fenders. Now the front hood is 1 unit wider on both sides and accordingly made the fender narrower. The headlights aligned with the inner fender piece now and I also add a 2x2 black tile behind the headlight so the red liftarm won't be seen through. Please let me know what you think. Thanks!