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Posted (edited)

Hi everyone!

I am back with yet another WIP topic.

In search for a rather special classic vehicle about a month ago, I have found this one. What can be more splendid than a one-off coachbuilt Rolls-Royce in a spirit of art deco is?

Equipped with its eye-catching circular doors, it is sometimes referred to as the Rolls-Royce Round Door Coupe.

More info about this vehicle can be found on the website of Petersen Automotive Museum.

1925-Rolls-Royce-Phantom-1-P_0013_14.jpg

As I intend it to be somewhat monumental, the largest wheels and tyres in production are the clear choice for me.

I also planned to use a 3D model for reference, yet I have faced some issues when exporting the model as a new part to Stud.io.

Therefore, I went with another option - let Studio generate a sculpture (or whatever it is called) form basic parts and use it instead.

RR Jonckheere 3

 

RR Jonckheere 4

 

RR Jonckheere 6

 

RR Jonckheere 7

 

RR Jonckheere 10

 

RR Jonckheere 11

The whole frame is being designed in modules (differentiated by colour) and bodywork can be easily separated.

RR Jonckheere 15

 

RR Jonckheere 16

 

RR Jonckheere 27

 

RR Jonckheere 30

 

RR Jonckheere 31

The current version:

  • approximately 102 cm long
  • weighs about 8,5 kg
  • about 7.000 parts (note that the car is now mostly hollow)

I do not have any firm list of wanted features, howewer, I do not want the model be enormous just for the sake of being huge, so some functions can be expected.

  • Steering - now via a medium linear actuator
  • Suspension - the original has leaf springs, I have opted for an imitation with classic shock absorbers
  • Openable doors, hood and trunk
  • Openable individual sunroofs
  • Removable bodywork in one piece - this vehicle will in fact be a 2-in-1 model, as I would like to be able to show the chassis separately - the 'rolling chassis' is everything you would have got from Rolls-Royce in this time period anyway
  • Manual gearbox

On the other hand, my main concerns are:

  • Model being too heavy for wheel hubs to handle - this proved to be very true after about first meter of rolling the car along, 3 wheels just came off :look:
  • Bodywork looking too flat and blocky
  • The whole model being large for the sake of being large

IMG_20250723_094548_edit_5977917624801

 

IMG_20250723_094715_edit_5965392618660

 

IMG_20250723_094517_edit_6004134039166

 

IMG_20250723_094404_edit_6020654370774

 

IMG_20250723_093529_edit_6059138279406

 

IMG_20250723_094220_edit_6047351144462

 

IMG_20250723_094055

 

IMG_20250723_095024

 

IMG_20250723_095117

Too bad that the light bulb does not come in tan :wacko: And yes, I am aware that the Spirit of Ecstasy should not be an angel, yet the broom is so perfect for this purpose :sweet:

IMG_20250723_094309_edit_6034437659936

 

IMG_20250723_100317_edit_6595430763055

 

IMG_20250723_095619_edit_6578818260770

 

IMG_20250723_095715_edit_6570823074419

 

IMG_20250723_095834

 

IMG_20250723_095905

In order to compensate for such a heavy car, I constructed both axles to have a small positive camber angle (though it didn't help that much).

IMG_20250723_100005

 

IMG_20250723_095942

And a comparison with my recent (still WIP) Bentley Turbo R LWB.

IMG_20250723_093142_edit_6067430593100

I am pretty sure I would like to write a few more lines, even though I cannot remember, what it should be about :blush:

Anyway, thanks for reading & suggestions and critique is welcome.

Edited by MP LEGO Technic creations
Deleted redundant lines between images
Posted

Oh wow, what a massive and unique model! Regrding wheels coming off hubs, you can use part 6270135 or 24482 inside the hub pins to reinforce them. Or you could use large turntables!

Also, frontpaged!

Posted

The size of these MOCs is just incredible.

All of my Technic pins are quivering in fear hoping they will not be used in a model so large.

Posted

Normally I really don't care about cars, but this is such a giant beast!

Even technic are double-stacked and reinforced where I see, just whoa.

Will the steering be geared up somehow or did you already try it under weight and decided against? :D

Posted

Oh my, what an insane build! You did a good job replicating the body lines, I would say near perfectly. And making a realistic chassis is very doable in this scale and allows for nice details. Honestly, I would 3D a spirit of Ecstasy, just to top of this build, it deserves it. Keep us posted!

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Zerobricks said:

Oh wow, what a massive and unique model! Regrding wheels coming off hubs, you can use part 6270135 or 24482 inside the hub pins to reinforce them. Or you could use large turntables!

Thanks! Initially, I've thought about unicorn horns but the parts you have suggested seem to have a thinner top with smoother surface, therefore suit the purpose better. The question is, will these fit under hubcaps or are they going to stick out more than acceptable? A few screws could also be utilised, otherwise I indeed se no other purist way than using a turntable.

56 minutes ago, Thirdwigg said:

All of my Technic pins are quivering in fear hoping they will not be used in a model so large.

So far, I feel I have been careful enough with the amount of stress on each part (apart from the wheel hubs, apparently), though Studio shows many pins painted red when checking for stability. However, it even happens in so strange places, that I find hard to believe is accurate.

 

32 minutes ago, Jundis said:

Normally I really don't care about cars, but this is such a giant beast!

Even technic are double-stacked and reinforced where I see, just whoa.

Will the steering be geared up somehow or did you already try it under weight and decided against? :D

Thank you! The only less stable area of the initial digital design turned out to be the A-pillars, which, due to their angle, are not capable of supporting additional weight when put on the roof. I believe I have solved that by adding another support to form a triangle.

The first version of the steering was using a planetary wheel hub and a gear rack. Due to the car's weight was the steering influenced rather by any roughness of the floor than by the steering wheel. Therefore, it was clear that I needed another solution. In this situation, a worm gear does not seem to be robust enough, so I opted for a linear actuator. You are absolutely right with the gearing. Previous 20-12 gearing was removed as the steering felt somewhat heavy. Now it takes like 10 rotations to each side to turn the vehicle, yet it is smooth and light enough even when the car is stationary.

But let's be honest, a meter long car in itself cannot be considered a very playable and practical toy :tongue:

Edited by MP LEGO Technic creations
Posted

1925 model, so this year is his 100th birthday. Unique model, but how to replicate it with Lego (perhaps with english wheel :grin:)?

Posted
19 hours ago, MP LEGO Technic creations said:

A few screws could also be utilised, otherwise I indeed se no other purist way than using a turntable

I have an in-between solution which you may prefer: the tape trick.

Place a small square of tape over the 3 pinholes on the wheel you will use, then just push the wheel on like normal. It will take more force but will stay on very well, I used this on rc models jumping and drifting and it never failed me.

Cheap semi transparent whiteish tape commonly used for paper and stuff is a little bit stretchy, so I find it works best to use this kind. Plain old clear stuff works okay but not so good.

Posted

Hi! There is a problem with proportions! We need to solve it before it's too late. The door is very small, it is very noticeable + wings need to be made longer or their height reduced, then perhaps the door will look better.

87868

 

Posted (edited)
53 minutes ago, Michael217 said:

Hi! There is a problem with proportions! We need to solve it before it's too late. The door is very small, it is very noticeable + wings need to be made longer or their height reduced, then perhaps the door will look better.

Admittedly, I have not checked the size of the doors, as this is their very first version. I indeed agree with you, an increase in size is necessary. Initially, I thought the large curved gear racks would be sufficient, yet that proved to be false. Longitudal size can be increased fairly easily by inserting a few studs to create an oval shape, while the real car seems to have rather elliptic doors.

By doing so on each side, I am afraid the door would take a square-ish shape instead, therefore a completely different approach might be needed in case of a complete reshape.

On the other hand, I have checked the shape of both front and rear wheel wings (I hope either of us meant those aerodynamic wheel cowlings/mudguards) according to a 3D model I have found online in the very beginning. The visual impression could be caused by some of these factors (or all of them):

• Wrong interpretation of the model's curves when creating the 'reference brick sculpture' I have compared it to afterwards.

• Insufficient curvature of the wings' edges that makes them look taller.

• Too much of ride height or mudguard clearance that gives the model such a tall stance.

Of course, I might be completely wrong :look:

Edited by MP LEGO Technic creations
Posted (edited)

Since the initial post, I have made the door slightly larger, as suggested by @Michael217.

IMG_20250813_100244_edit_6841130757910

According to my measurements in Sariel's Model Scaler (based on car's aforementioned side profile photo), the door should be 185-190 mm tall and about 210 mm wide to form an ellipse. So far I have achieved a symmetrical round-ish shape by inserting 3L thin liftarms in between each of curved segments. Thus the diameter has been increased to 23 studs (184 mm), which means a difference of 2 studs. Additionally, the brick-built cover of this technic structure has been rebuilt in order to leave no visible curved gear racks behind, therefore, I believe, it is possible to talk about a total size increase of 3 studs.

The surrounding black frame has also undergone a few changes in order to accomodate the larger door, the most significant of them being the B-pillar, which has been moved towards the rear by two studs.

Unfortunately, I do not think there will be any way to make the door elliptic (rather impossible) or oval, as this would require some significant changes to the whole frame.

My further intentions include moving the doors' hinge further forward, as well as replacing the current door with something less crude and colourful looking.

IMG_20250813_100531

 

IMG_20250813_100441

 

IMG_20250813_100109_edit_6721710537174

 

IMG_20250813_095944_edit_6655743811314

Although my Bentley looks quite good next to this RR, here is a size comparison with the only assembled 1:8 vehicle from my collection :blush:

IMG_20250813_095217_edit_7342279892718

 

Edited by MP LEGO Technic creations
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Here is a photo of the current state of the chassis. 

IMG_20250908_121920_edit_7698796645342

Somewhat limited playability has been slightly improved by switching the steering gear ratio right before the medium LA from 12-12 to 20-12, since less steering force is required when the steering wheel is fixed in place. Otherwise, I have started with the drive shaft (I was very pleased with how barrel pieces can hide those large CV joints :sweet:).

IMG_20250908_122154_edit_7829705278678

 

IMG_20250908_121210_edit_8354199015509

More importantly, after almost a month, I have finally figured out (at least partially) solutions to some of the issues.

Since reinforcing the connection in between rims and wheel hubs themselves proved to be tricky, I have implemented another recent thought which crossed my mind. Specifically stabilising the wheels against their axle and (potentially) decrease the forces causing the wheels to fall off.

IMG_20250908_122822

Like one would limit the amount of play in any turntable, these wheels are large enough to fit a similar solution. I went with 'round girder', because a circle made of small curved gear racks (though these offer more favourable mounting points) of the same size would presumably tend to split into pieces and as the rim's beams slide directly on the surface of the support, any roughness will likely prevent rotation.

IMG_20250908_122352

The specific distance of the support is achieved by some bars, bushes and 1/2 pins.

IMG_20250908_122743

Additionally, this whole contraption required further reinforcements, therefore a 6L link has been placed under both steered wheels.

IMG_20250908_122615_edit_8373327293574

The rear axle utilises the same solution, the lack of steering allows easier bracing.

IMG_20250908_122931

 

IMG_20250908_122958

All in all, after some initial testing the stability seems to be about twice as good (and the wheels still eventually fall off). The yellow support rings will be replaced with DBG ones. And let's not forget that now this ridiculous contraption better resembles the brakes of the original while not introducing that much of friction.

IMG_20250908_123117_edit_8399000984919

Furthermore, positive caster has been increased as well.

IMG_20250908_121809_edit_7726892099081

Apart from that, the A-pillars have been significantly rebuilt and a bit of work has been also done on the doors (now with a working lock and a door handle on a completely wrong spot).

IMG_20250908_121059

 

IMG_20250908_120752_edit_8489599478374

Thanks for reading & have a great day.

Edited by MP LEGO Technic creations

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