Tonzy Posted February 25 Posted February 25 Looks unfinished to me. Both, the rear portion and the chassis should have used more parts. On racingbricks video, when he plays with the suspension you can see trought the model. That shows how barebones the set is behind the panels Hopefully the redbull set will be better since it has more parts Quote
Jundis Posted February 26 Posted February 26 Completely missed the new ball joint parts! That ball socked 3 studs in length was so needed for narrow front axles! Quote
Bubbha Posted February 26 Posted February 26 (edited) 2 hours ago, Jundis said: Completely missed the new ball joint parts! That ball socked 3 studs in length was so needed for narrow front axles! Dreaming for that since the end of my dark Age, 2013. The set Is overpriced but full of new parts. Better wait for a discount but i'm not sure i can wait after 12 years hoping in those ball joints🤣 Edited February 26 by Bubbha Quote
falconluan Posted February 26 Posted February 26 (edited) 13 hours ago, Jundis said: Completely missed the new ball joint parts! That ball socked 3 studs in length was so needed for narrow front axles! Couldn't agree more! Finally, I can build a 8R with independent front suspension now! On second thought, it may not an easy task still, since there is still no narrow enough CV joints... Edited February 27 by falconluan Quote
Milan Posted February 26 Posted February 26 @Auroralampinen I have removed 6 of the same video reviews you linked in various Technic topics, and left one. No need to post the same thing all over the board. Thanks. Quote
Auroralampinen Posted February 26 Author Posted February 26 2 minutes ago, Milan said: @Auroralampinen I have removed 6 of the same video reviews you linked in various Technic topics, and left one. No need to post the same thing all over the board. Thanks. Ok thank you for letting me know that. I didn't know that:) Quote
Milan Posted February 26 Posted February 26 2 minutes ago, Auroralampinen said: Ok thank you for letting me know that. I didn't know that:) No probs. Have fun. Quote
therealjustin Posted February 27 Posted February 27 I'm quite disappointed with how hollow this set looks and feels for the high price. The entire bottom half is basically an unfinished frame. Quote
sm1995 Posted February 27 Posted February 27 1 hour ago, therealjustin said: I'm quite disappointed with how hollow this set looks and feels for the high price. The entire bottom half is basically an unfinished frame. Yeah 100% agree. Absolutely pales in comparison to the CADA F1 set imo Quote
Toastie Posted February 27 Posted February 27 4 hours ago, therealjustin said: The entire bottom half is basically an unfinished frame. Wait - that has become normal with LEGO sets, hasn't it? Simply buy a second set and fill it up - money is no object Best Thorsten Quote
Divitis Posted March 1 Posted March 1 On 2/26/2025 at 4:18 PM, falconluan said: Couldn't agree more! Finally, I can build a 8R with independent front suspension now! Maybe this solution can help? Quote
1gor Posted March 2 Posted March 2 On 2/26/2025 at 4:18 PM, falconluan said: Couldn't agree more! Finally, I can build a 8R with independent front suspension now! On second thought, it may not an easy task still, since there is still no narrow enough CV joints... The axle 5L ftom Ford is to big for that; in your scale overall width should be 17-18 studs, so enjoy calculations... New short suspension arm is real blesding, but look like you could make narrower axle with reduction hubs. Quote
falconluan Posted March 2 Posted March 2 12 hours ago, Divitis said: Maybe this solution can help? Thank you, your placing of the wishbones are very clever! I will try that before getting the new parts in hands. The differential is still a problem, the tire sizes of a tractor are different, so the trick of your axle doesn't work. Still need to put the differential along the drivetrain 3 hours ago, 1gor said: The axle 5L ftom Ford is to big for that; in your scale overall width should be 17-18 studs, so enjoy calculations... New short suspension arm is real blesding, but look like you could make narrower axle with reduction hubs. yes, the space between typical hub connection points is 11 studs Quote
Stereo Posted March 2 Posted March 2 (edited) 16 hours ago, 1gor said: The axle 5L ftom Ford is to big for that; in your scale overall width should be 17-18 studs, so enjoy calculations... Is that piece a real axle in the middle? It'd really narrow things up if you had 92906 out of the diff, cut in half the 5L (2405), so it could slide into 32494 in the hub. Roughly 11 studs in between the hubs. Too bad they didn't make it as 2 pieces that joined with an axle joiner. Edited March 2 by Stereo Quote
1gor Posted March 3 Posted March 3 4 hours ago, Stereo said: Is that piece a real axle in the middle? It'd really narrow things up if you had 92906 out of the diff, cut in half the 5L (2405), so it could slide into 32494 in the hub. Roughly 11 studs in between the hubs. Too bad they didn't make it as 2 pieces that joined with an axle joiner. This one https://brickset.com/parts/6408171/cardan-ball-5m Quote
SNIPE Posted March 3 Posted March 3 (edited) 16 hours ago, Stereo said: Is that piece a real axle in the middle? yes, only part that would fit over the end is the 45590 rubber 2L beam with 2 axleholes. Edited March 3 by SNIPE Quote
WW Bricks Studio Posted March 24 Posted March 24 Hi guys, this is my 42207 Ferrari SF-24 motorized version, enjoy Quote
Govo8488 Posted May 18 Posted May 18 Hi to all!!!I noticed a big problem in the part on page 87 of the beige gears. After having also assembled all the subsequent part of the engine with the cylinders I tried to move the engine shaft and I noticed that a wheel did not always move with the engine or at least it gave this impression. Gear 1 is rotated directly by the engine, through 2 it simply moves the wheels. But gear 2 must not rotate on itself, otherwise the wheels remain still. However, gear 2 is a round pin on a cross hole so depending on the friction it sometimes turns. In my opinion, 2 should be blocked. Opinions? Quote
Auroralampinen Posted May 18 Author Posted May 18 19 minutes ago, Govo8488 said: Hi to all!!!I noticed a big problem in the part on page 87 of the beige gears. After having also assembled all the subsequent part of the engine with the cylinders I tried to move the engine shaft and I noticed that a wheel did not always move with the engine or at least it gave this impression. Gear 1 is rotated directly by the engine, through 2 it simply moves the wheels. But gear 2 must not rotate on itself, otherwise the wheels remain still. However, gear 2 is a round pin on a cross hole so depending on the friction it sometimes turns. In my opinion, 2 should be blocked. Opinions? Well, thats how the differential works. If one wheel is off the ground, it will spin freely while the other stay still. And differential helps with steering Here is helpfull video to show, how differential works:). Quote
pleegwat Posted May 18 Posted May 18 I've always been a fan of this classic video on differentials. Quote
Govo8488 Posted May 18 Posted May 18 1 hour ago, Auroralampinen said: Well, thats how the differential works. If one wheel is off the ground, it will spin freely while the other stay still. And differential helps with steering Here is helpfull video to show, how differential works:). Thanks....now i undestand!!! Quote
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