[MOC] My LEGO Renfe S-130

[L-Gauger]

6 hours ago, Imanol said:

The 1x4 crossed technic bricks allows the bogie to have the same length as before but I´m not so sure about it´s stability (although Studio says it´s more stable)

As long as the plates you use in the upper part of the bogie are long enough, this should be fine. But I think the best solution is your idea of combining both techniques. I'd use the 4x4 Technic Brick technique on the end nearer to the coupler/pilot for the best stability, and the 1x4 Technic Brick on the end farther from the coupler/pilot to keep the same overall length as your previous design. For extra safety, I'd also rebuild the gearing so that it is a mirror image of what you have now. That way, the greatest stress will be on the side with the 4x4 Technic brick. 

[Imanol]

12 minutes ago, L-Gauger said:

As long as the plates you use in the upper part of the bogie are long enough, this should be fine. But I think the best solution is your idea of combining both techniques. I'd use the 4x4 Technic Brick technique on the end nearer to the coupler/pilot for the best stability, and the 1x4 Technic Brick on the end farther from the coupler/pilot to keep the same overall length as your previous design. For extra safety, I'd also rebuild the gearing so that it is a mirror image of what you have now. That way, the greatest stress will be on the side with the 4x4 Technic brick. 

Right now I don't have the program open but when I was testing the stability I found that when using the 4x4 in the rear, the coupler was not supported enough as there is only one stud of support. I did try attaching a 1x4 to it but the improvement was not very noticeable. I will try tomorrow to make the opposite design and look if it's better

[zephyr1934]

On 8/8/2025 at 11:01 AM, Imanol said:

The 1x4 crossed technic bricks allows the bogie to have the same length as before but I´m not so sure about it´s stability (although Studio says it´s more stable)

With the 32324 Brick the bogie is one stud longer which can cause issues but due to the slanted design of the train undercarriage, the bogie can be one stud longer on the frame part. 

To keep the bevel gears in place I'd suggest that fill the available space on the axles with full and half bushings or the 1x1 technic "liftarms" (in quotes because they really are just a hollow tube). Just make sure there's a little slack on the axles so they can still freely turn.

By the way, it looks like there is now room to use one of the technic connectors for the central axle coming from above

 

 or 

(I mistyped the image AND part number for the first connector in my previous note, should be 48496)

 

[BB616583]

On 5/31/2023 at 4:41 PM, Imanol said:

Salut tout le monde, je vous présente ma deuxième version du Renfe S-130 comme Ferro-Friki l’a fait il y a quelque temps. J’avais envie de refaire ce train que j’avais fait en premier en 2018 avec pas le meilleur résultat donc j’ai maintenant fait cette version en 7 goujons.

LEGO Renfe S-130 DEF [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

L’ensemble est très détaillé, même à l’arrière des voitures motrices et des voitures d’extrémité

LEGO Renfe S-130 Testeros Interiores [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

J’ai fait un train réduit de seulement 7 voitures au lieu des 11 qu’il y a dans la vraie vie, mais il a une de chacune des différentes voitures qui forment le vrai train avec des intérieurs détaillés.

D’abord l’extrémité « Preferente » et « Preferente »

LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Extremo Preferente [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

L’intérieur des voitures « Preferente »

LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

La voiture adaptée « Preferente » et son intérieur

LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Preferente PMR [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

LEGO Renfe S-130 Interior Preferente PMR [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

La voiture-café et son intérieur

LEGO Renfe S-130 Cafétéria latérale [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

LEGO Renfe S-130 Cafétéria intérieure [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

Et les voitures Turista qui sont les mêmes que preferente mais avec une disposition des sièges 2+2

LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

LEGO Renfe S-130 Lateral Remolques Turista [MOC] par Imanol, en Flickr

 

Et maintenant que je l’ai présenté, je veux demander de l’aide pour le construire car ce sera mon premier train lego dans la vraie vie. Le mécanisme d’attelage de voiture que j’ai installé n’est qu’à des fins esthétiques et ne fonctionnera pas dans la vraie vie. Un autre problème est que j’ai vu de nombreux modèles dans lesquels tout l’arrière de la locomotive ou de la motrice pivote et je ne sais pas si cela pourrait être nécessaire de le faire dans ce cas. Enfin, je veux savoir comment le motoriser, étant si long, je suppose que j’aurais besoin des deux voitures motrices pour fournir de la puissance, mais je ne sais pas.

Quoi qu’il en soit, j’espère que vous apprécierez ce projet autant que j’ai aimé le concevoir

 

Really a very beautiful reproduction! The detail and the typical colors of the Renfe 😍

[Imanol]

16 hours ago, zephyr1934 said:

To keep the bevel gears in place I'd suggest that fill the available space on the axles with full and half bushings or the 1x1 technic "liftarms" (in quotes because they really are just a hollow tube). Just make sure there's a little slack on the axles so they can still freely turn.

By the way, it looks like there is now room to use one of the technic connectors for the central axle coming from above

 

 or 

(I mistyped the image AND part number for the first connector in my previous note, should be 48496)

 

During the testing phase on the real model I had several Technic bushings of both types but I haven´t added them to the renders.

The problem with the way of connecting the axles is that both of the pieces are in the way of the only piece which guides (as is not even really attached) the motor axle with the bogie. In this picture it can be seen, is the 3709b plate and 15535 tile on top:

When I tried to remove them and test any of the connectors I found that they are slightly taller so they cannot fit on the current footprint. There is a 3x3 hole in the chassis of the power car for the bogie to connect to the motor but right now I have an idea to make it smaller in order to keep the axle straight (in case this is part of the issue).

I think I have enough pieces to test the prototype with the 1x4 technic bricks so in the coming days I will try to build it and test if there is any issue remaining. If this fails I will start thinking of a major redesign (again) that is focused on a technic structure and could be able to incorporate one of those connectors on a similar foot print. 

The other issue right now is deciding if it´s worth it to try and order bearing wheels for the non-powered axles on the power car, in case there is a excessive friction problem on top of the design mistakes on the bogie.

Thanks for all the help, Imanol

2 hours ago, BB616583 said:

Really a very beautiful reproduction! The detail and the typical colors of the Renfe 😍

Thank you very much. This project has been a tremendous undertaking and looking at the photos on the first post is easy to see how much it has improved. If everything goes okay, and I solve the current issues, I will try finishing the decals and posting the complete project in September

[Imanol]

 

Today I have been able to test some of the ideas on the train itself. Due my "small" piece collection I haven´t been able to test everything I would have like.

The first idea tested was the one I mentioned before with the two 1x4 technic bricks in place of the 1x2 bricks. After the first failed test I modified the side details to be 1x2 instead of 1x4 rounded plates as I was noticing that they might be causing more friction.

Unfortunately the test failed when the power car was coupled to 3 of the cars that had a weight of 1.5 kg aprox. My feeling is that as right now the only pieces which bridges the gap between the two axles are two 1x8 plates, I think they don´t apply enough force and in fact, I appreciate a slight bending. This I think is pulling apart the two 1x4 bricks and causing them to drop (although this is only my theory).

On 8/8/2025 at 11:58 PM, L-Gauger said:

As long as the plates you use in the upper part of the bogie are long enough, this should be fine. But I think the best solution is your idea of combining both techniques. I'd use the 4x4 Technic Brick technique on the end nearer to the coupler/pilot for the best stability, and the 1x4 Technic Brick on the end farther from the coupler/pilot to keep the same overall length as your previous design. For extra safety, I'd also rebuild the gearing so that it is a mirror image of what you have now. That way, the greatest stress will be on the side with the 4x4 Technic brick. 

Taking inspiration on this idea I did my own version but changing the 4x4 with a 4x6 as I don´t have any of the 4x4. The result is promising although the front is still experiencing the same issue as before. The power car was able to pull the other 3 cars although going very slowly but when trying to traverse a switch, the same issue as before occurred.

 

Right know I don´t want to make a piece order as I´m still not sure of what is exactly the issue, although I think trying a 4x4 brick in the front could work. I will try to make some temporary modifications to the power car in order to be able to use a 4x6 in the front and see if that solves the issue.

Currently I´m running out of batteries so I can´t continue testing until tomorrow.

Finally I would like to know if someone has carried out some test with the powered up motor and has the maximum load it can pull, I know that my train is quite heavy as it has a complete interior but I don´t know if that is really the issue.

Thanks for all the ideas, Imanol

[L-Gauger]

Good test results! Sorry my ideas didn't quite work as I thought they would. Although I do have more thoughts based on your test results... 

Is it possible for you to move the pivot point of your truck forward (or back) by 1/2 stud? This would allow you to connect the two 1x4 Technic bricks via a 2x6 Technic plate and offer a bit more resistance to warping. Another way might be to use 1x10 or 1x12 plates to take the place of the 1x8 plates. The longer plates have more clutch power. 

Finally, just to verify: are you using all four of the studs on the 1x4 Technic Bricks to attach the bricks to the rest of the bogie frame? If not, find a way to do so in order that you might take advantage of all the clutch power you can. 

You are most welcome! I like the mechanics of engineering drive trains with Lego. I haven't done tests with PUP motors, but my PF motors continue to surprise me. One motor might work, but I'd do two if I could afford it, at the very least to reduce stress on all parts.