allanp

Awesome model, well done And your english is great by the way

At 800 rpm the E-motor really is not fast at all. The RC buggy motor has some reduction but it does spin well above 1000 rpm, which is still not that fast for a motor but still not a bad speed I guess. It is interesitng however that he says there are two servos and one drive motor, which is the opposite to the other report and also the prelim box images show one servo and two l-motors (as m-motors), so it could be that the very slow motor is the servo motor and the two stubby motors are the drive motors. This would make more sence to me as a servo motor would be very slow and having a central differencial in that one slow motor as well as the gearing and internal motor seems not plausible. I could be wrong tho.

I like the idea of having an axle going all the way through, but c'mon, we already have a slow m-motor and a really slow XL motor, do we really need another really slow motor when we don't have a fast motor? But at least we get two servos instead of just one, so that's good!

Well with the new longer pump from the unimog and now with a servo motor, compressors and RC valves can be built quite neatly and intuatively in a way that works great without taking up too much room. Hopefully this new servo will enable us to control a pneumatic valve remotely with good precision. It's the longer pneumatics i'm really hoping for now!

You bet i'm a fan!

Servo motors??????

Well as you can see, one of them has the holes running horizontally, whilst the other has them running vertically They are the same, just the colour is different a far as I can tell. Type 1 is actually the older version with studs.

Have not tried those, but have you seen these? These work pretty well and can easily be driven by a motor by adding a 16t gear into the hubs.

I would say the scale is actually about right for a pickup truck, maybe a double cab pickup.

That's why I wanted only two pumps under full compression at any given time, and also why I would recommend an XL motor or something of similar torque (geared down RC or m-motor) to power it. EDIT: Sorry I forgot to say i'm glad you found it useful laix

Whoever designed that must be a genius Sorry, couldn't resist! Radbot is my brickshelf name. I use (or used to use when I was still making MOCs) this compressor alot. I wanted something that could produce a lot of compressed air for larger MOCs but that was as compact as possible whilst also having as few pumps in their compression phase as possible to increase efficiency. There are always two pumps, and never more than two pumps under full compression at any given time to produce a good, even flow of air and reduce strain/power consumption from the motor. I also wanted something that could double as a fake engine. So that's what I came up with. It looks more like an engine when you run the hoses so they look like exhausts. I find it runs pretty well from an XL motor, popping off re-enforced hose connections at around 50-60 psi (could not keep the hoses on long enough to see what pressure it could actually create), with enough volume as to never be left waiting for powerful movements from up to four large cylinders simultaineously.

Sorry bout that

Personally I really like the power puller wheels. Never had a problem with em. Now if you want to motorize 8466 then the drive train is the real problem. It was not designed to take that kind of stress. I love gearboxes, but have had to design my own for motorised projects.

"sorry allanp" Well it looks like an absolutely fantastic project. This is one of those projects that temps me back into making MOCs but I must be tenatious and finish this album first!

yup

At the time 8466 was released you could get a pneumatics add on kit, much like the various motor kits. The crane you see in some pictures is from that.

For me, 8466 is way better than the silver champion. The silver champion has not many useful parts and very little complexity. The suspention is life like, but thats it. So between 8110 and 8466, 8466 is very rare now, so you might want to pick that one up sooner rather than later, but 8110 is IMHO much much better and worth every penny of it's full retail price. So if you plan to eventually get both, get 8466 first, but if you're only gonna get one, get 8110.

Whilst I do call myself a strict lego purist I must admit, if that shop brings out longer pneumatics you already know i'm gonna get those!

It's from the silver champion and other similar F1 cars Picture by TeamFuzzock

Mix them, sort the pieces, save the princess, (whispers) save your mind! Seriously tho I guess it depends how many sets you intend to get. I foolishly waited till over 100 sets before I started to sort mine a few years ago, still haven't finished sorting!

Fishing line should work.

In the past I have used string (fine stuff for sewing) tightly wrapped around the ends with good results.

Well I use these: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_198515_categoryId_255213_langId_-1?cm_sp=Intelligent_Offer-_-Product_Details_Zone_1-_-Blank&iozone=PDPz1 They also make thinner ones with smaller compartments (great for those one or two very rare parts you have) and an XL version (great for thousands of beams). They are expensive, but Lego deserves a good home . At the moment my pile of these organisers is almost as tall as me and brobably heavier than me, still need to buy more

1) The numbers are not the same. You could have both numbers, one TLGs in red, and bricklinks in green. 2) Pictures are always better than words! 3) That would be helpful, maybe you don't need the repeat the parts found in the original set. 4) I guess either way would be fine. 5) That's a nice axle! If you need to use those parts then use em. Having the picture and both part numbers should make it easy to get the right parts. 6) If you mean the auto instructions tool then probably not a good idea. 7) Spend lots of time on them. Never use any form of auto instruction tool, they are good for reminding the designer of something how that something went together, but for a beginner who has also never seen it, no good. You'll have to do them manually. Doing them properly can be a long and painstaking process so make sure you have the time and patients for it

You would mount the wheel onto an undriven turntable, then drive the droid wheel. technic pins/axles will fit in the outer ridges of the wheel.