Jurgen Krooshoop

Talking about epic pictures, you just posted 2. The better looking excavator is standing on the box

Once again you've built a fantastic MOC. And as others mentioned already (but I'll mention it again) very original !! Any chance on seeing a video of this one ?

Really really great. Even the artwork on the table is nice !! Love it !!

The 8466 comes with a complete set of parts to make a wishbone-suspension, so you should have all the parts needed & an instruction how to use them. As far as I know, this is the best way to connect these big wheels to a drivetrain.

Wow, this is very cool !! I like it's performance very much. Racing with self-made Lego-cars is really cool !!

Being a keyboardplayer/pianist myself, I can really appreciate this one. And nice to see that you've got the black keys right.

Impressive performance. And nice to see it pulling 3 other (non-Lego) cars

Designed by Dmac, Used in Sariel's Volvo excavator. The mechanism on the right is the PF-valve, which returns to centre. http://www.facebook.com/pages/Sarielpl/243748243695?v=photos#!/photo.php?pid=4385738&id=243748243695

Big thanx to Blakbird, Anio & Sariel for all your 8043-publications. I was already sure that I'd have to get this one when it's available, but now I'm even more sure (if that were possible).

I'm truly astounded by the originality of this creation. Wonder where you get those tremendous ceative idea's.

It already has 2:1 gear reduction applied to the outer (slower) axlehole. And I actually don't want to add more gear-reduction, to keep the car fast and the drivetrain simple.

Yes, that's propably what's happening, thanx. It usually occurs after a bit of racing.

I've noticed something similar with my racecar using an RC-motor. Sometimes, it takes about a 2 seconds for the receiver to respond, while my previous car (using an XL-motor) never had that problem. Maybe the receiver doesn't get enough power sometimes.

Yes, it will be published ASAP. (I like it even more than this one). I'm working one instructions now, but they won't be ready before the end of next week. Even for a small model like this, it's a lot of work. And after that, a video must be made ... so it will take a bit of time before you'll see it here. It would have been practically impossible to make this out of studded Lego. Parts would even come off while racing. I did use a little bit of studded Lego though, and added studs to beams using small pins.

This is one truly magnificent creation. Its looks are fantastic and its performance (driving almost 8 km/h) impressive. I guess that RC-motor is very suitable for making fast Lego-vehicules. I've noticed that while making small racecars, one using an XL-motor, the other one an RC-motor. The latter one performs noticably better in accelleration and max-speed (and will be published ASAP including instructions).

I agree with Plastic Nurak. Both studless & studfull building have their advantages and disadvantaged. My Black Supercar "The Wasp" is an example of combining these two building-methods. However, mostly I prefer studless building for being more flexible, offering more possibilities

You're right, so I reversed the gears, and corrected the wrong orientation of the first gear (which was offset 90 degrees, you can see in the picture). Now the steering works noticably better making the car more controllable.

Thankx for the suggestions, I will definately try it. A very good reason to get those old bevel gears out of the box, cause they haven't been used for years, as the newer 12-tooth bevel gears are stronger. Edit: OK, I tried the idea, and indeed it improves the steering-lock a bit, but it also causes the return-to-centre to work less good, just as changing the gearing from the motor to the steering-axle does. So it makes it more manouvrable, but more difficult to control.

Although the rubber of front wheels is quite stiff/hard, it turns very nicely. The differential and the weight (still approx 700 parts for a relativly small car) give it good driving capabilities. It is quite manouverable, I tested it on my improvized race-track in my attic. Unfortunately my attic is too dark for my camera to make nice footage, which I would have liked to include.

Interesting creations (especially since I'm working on small RC-cars as well). The return-to-centre mechanism is something I definately must to try. Now what they need is a nice body around them.

@Blakbird: Wow, your renders look soooooo nice, much better than mine, thanx !!

The knob-gear was specifically chosen over bevel-gears and IMO it runs pretty smooth with it. And I don't understand where I should place that extra beam. The XL-motor is already secured with 3 pins on the same side as the output and 2 pins on the side.

Crowkillers Lamborghini Gallardo is a very nice model without Power functions, but with instructions. And you're right about lots of MOC's using PF nowadays, I'm completely guilty as charged My last non-PF model was my Black Supercar "The Wasp", which is over a year old:

For the instructions scoll to the bottom of the post Hello !! Ever since I took part in races at the latest Lowlug meeting, I've become addicted to racing with self-made LEGO-racecars. First I made a very simple RC chassis x2 (which was really ugly), and improvised a race-track in my own attic. There I raced against my brother until the batteries were completely empty. So I just had to make small racecars that would also look nice. This is the first in a series of at least 2 small racecars: The drivetrain is derived from my E.R.T.W.D.. And in contrast to my previous RC car, the Little Devil, it features return-to-centre steering which makes the car more controllable. It uses the technic axle connector rectangular triple spring-loaded to return the steering axle to neutral position. Although it was built as small as possible, I did manage to include quite some features of which the rotating steering wheel is my favorite. It also has working frontlights and rearlights The doors can be opened. But they have a small lock, so they won't open during driving. The trunk opens as well, giving a nice view of the drivetrain. Since it has to endure some racing-abuse, it was made as strong as possible. And to protect the front, the bumper was fitted with shock-absorbers. So driving this thing and crashing into something (which happens regularly) is pretty safe. The choice of wheels was a consequence of a number of aspects: initially all the wheels were of the 62.4 x 20 S type, but this resulted in weird-looking cars with wheels that were to big. So I switched to model team wheels for the front. But I kept the big rear-wheels because smaller wheels would require more gearing in the drivetrain. Eventually the big wheels give it a powerfull look. Some technical data: Lenth: 38 studs Width: 17 studs Height: 14 studs Number of parts: 728 (including the remote controller) Drivetrain: XL-motor with 3:1 speed increase. Instructions I've made complete step-by-step building instructions just as I did for my Little Devil. The instructions can be downloaded on my website www.jurgenstechniccorner.com Hope you enjoy it. Feel free to comment.

Well that's something I agree with. When you make somthing that should work, then it must work properly.