fred67

Well... that was your box, I'm guessing. Are they all like that? I hope to be getting a box (I already ordered one, but they won't ship until the official release day in September); the only reason I ordered a whole box is because I was unable to get even ONE SINGLE SERIES 1 in the stores (or new online... I eventually bought a set on Ebay and am not happy about it). But I hope to sell two complete sets, and keep one and the extras... assuming I display a complete set, that just leaves extras to use in MOCs... so, not wanting to jump the gun, one of anything else is great... but if I'm going to have two of any minifigs to play with, Ringmasters and traffic cops are not on the top of my list. Vampires and Witches would be awesome... great for a Halloween MOC.

Try this: Track Planning and also try LDD and unlocking the "Universe Mode" as described elsewhere on this site. Then you can plan your layout and even virtually build it with LDD before using actual pieces.

Sorry, don't know what's available in Italy... Oxyclean is the stuff Billy Mays used to sell on TV here in the U.S. before his untimely death... it's available in Supermarkets here, it's just called "Oxyclean" and is found where the laundry detergent is. If you're not sure, the Oxyclean only acts as a catalyst... you can just leave your pieces on Hydrogen Peroxide for several days. The first time I did it, it took like 3 or 4 days and the results were OK, but adding oxyclean gives better results in one day. Maybe this will help.

Yes... this is good advice. I also have a B&N Member card, I don't know if it's worth it to get one unless you buy books, too, but they occasionally send out coupons and I got Falling Water and the Guggenheim Museum for like 40% off at B&N... I have all the architecture sets except the Whitehouse, which I will probably get if I get another good B&N deal. The first sets were way overpriced for what you were getting, but I don't know that I'm happier with the newer ones as far as expense goes... I can only afford so much!

I've noticed (anecdotal evidence) that after cleaning old white and gray pieces with hydrogen peroxide and oxyclean (retrobright minus the thickeners), that the surfaces of the pieces seem a bit more grippy, I think it may slightly expand the surface. One of the reasons why it messes up clear pieces when I try it... the clear pieces end up being better than they were (not yellowed) but they lose the shininess... I think the process "roughs up" the surface.

Love it... thanks for offering the LDD file, that's mighty nice of you... I only collect OT stuff, and don't have a Slave 1 (not even the new one, although I plan on getting it one of these days... it only just came out, so I'm not particularly worried... waiting for a TRU BOGO 50% sale). Your colors are great, as are the details. I agree that some clear pieces for the stand would be nice. I studied stereoscopic 3D in college around 16 or 17 years ago, and have always loved it. I actually work in a television production studio, and some of the scripts I write for the animators here are to make stereoscopic images. Maybe I'm just getting old, but I had to edit your image to move the ships closer together so I didn't have to wall-eye so much, but I finally got it to work, it's always cool to see things like that in 3D.

Thanks for the awesome review... it's great to finally see it. I definitely am interested in multiples of this set, as I am the city one. I hope it's available here (US) after the previous fiasco... my understanding is that it would be, so here's hoping. You've really whet my appetite for this... oh... and if it made financial sense, I'd trade you a few swords for the pig, I think it's a great addition, adding some of these to the MMV will be very cool.

IMO, that should have a "snowball" effect and most members should be joining yours. I know if someone banned me I'd join somewhere else... if they even threatened, they wouldn't get the chance.

Thanks for the replies.

Start your own.

Hi, and welcome on board. Too bad your "dark ages" spanned over the Castle Fantasy Era, being a big fan of Tolien. Keep working on them and share your stop motion videos.

I found this article on a technique for making more "realistic" tracks, but was wondering if the only way to get curves on base plates is to "float" them using tiles, and wondering if that's what most people do. With all do respect to Dave, too.

It really is impressive; I'd also like to know how it handles curves, and how does the remote work with the receiver buried in the tender like that. Congratulations on an outstanding MOC, Cale.

First... we're just discussing, here, right? I'm not trying to be argumentative... I value the opinion of everyone here, just want to make sure that's clear. I agree completely with what you wrote, but you skipped the 9V RC motor. Why'd they make a new one? Because the old one didn't work well... and might as well make it compatible with PF if you're doing something new... but the new one is no more or less suited for non train applications than the RC one... So yes, you're absolutely right... the point was to make these more expensive parts work across more lines so that they could have larger runs with less risk... which is why I don't get why'd they continue making a powered bogey, because that would completely defeat the purpose. I don't want anyone to get me wrong here... I hope they do keep making it, because it IS a lot easier to build with, but I just can't count on it... if you want to "future proof" yourself against the whims of TLG, better to build with an XL or M motor (I have to study these "E" motors, but it seems the only reason for their existence is they are better at generating electricity).

It's already been done by a number of LEGO Train Enthusiasts. No doubt... a couple of years at least. And I'm not saying I couldn't be wrong about powered bogies being "PF"... it just seems to me TLG was explicitly saying that the point was to "amortize the development and on going cost across multiple themes," which a train specific bogie wouldn't do... but since they don't really tell us what's going on, it's always possible they made an exception.

What I'm saying is that LEGO's goal was to not have to make motors specific for any one line. The XL IS the train motor... just look at the Emerald Night. It's a generic motor that gets applied to trains and any other line that needs power. That's what TLG's goal was. And it may just be a matter of personal opinion, but... wait, where'd you read it had redesigned internals? Anecdotal evidence that it's stronger? Because every review I've read said that the 9V RC was better than 9V, and that PF - using XL motors, was far stronger than 9V... but the PF they were referring to was XL motors. Anyway, it may only be a matter of opinion, but even if you look at LEGO's power functions website, while the OLD 9V RC motor appears there (as it's compatible), there's nothing non-generic shown when you're actually looking at pages with the PF motors, and it must be the opinion of the BL maintainers that it's not PF, either... in fact, the one you can buy now is x1688 while the new one is just x1688a... "with integrated PF attachment." Since the PF "goal" was to be generic, I have a difficult time accepting TLG calling these "PF" just because it happens to work with PF components... every motor and battery pack can work with PF components. It's also not PF just because it might have been redesigned. I'm not going to nit-pick anymore; it's my opinion (shared by others) that calling this "PF" is a misnomer for a variety of reasons... but it's not worth arguing about. But the point was that if you design your locomotion around an XL, M, or E motor, that TLG can't screw you by discontinuing them because there will almost surely be drop in replacements. If you design it around one of these powered bogies and TLG discontinues them (which they almost surely will), then you're just going to be disappointed. From everything I've heard over the past couple of years, LEGO will be using EN style locomotion... an XL or similar motor, and I was pointing out that if you go this route yourself, you will almost surely be "future proofing" yourself from the inevitable changes that TLG will make.

You know what is really sad... it's not TLG changing the system, it's that I can't find out any newer information about it. Even the iltco.org site just brings up a blank page for me (maybe it's because I'm using Chrome). I guess like most companies, if they tell you what's coming up they think you are less likely to buy what's current.

Where do they call it PF? Just because they show it on the box with other PF stuff? It's just a redesigned 9V train motor. From what I understand, PF is supposed to be generic... making a PF train motor makes no sense, then, as the idea was to use a generic motor that could be used for anything. As far as calling if PF just because it's got an integrated cable... no, I don't buy that. The only "really" PF engine is the EN. If LEGO ever lists this motor under the PF section of their website (in addition to or instead of the train section), I'll admit I'm wrong, but I really doubt we'll see that happen. And as I mentioned, even these are going to be phased out... TLG doesn't like the current trains (that was the last I heard) and they are going back to the drawing board and don't even have any plans that I'm aware of. I'd be willing to be we don't see any new engines until at least 2012. EDIT: from this press release: .... Using the LEGO Power Functions system the new train system will benefit from a set of electric elements that are cross theme, widely available and not completely train specific which allows us to amortize the development and on going cost across multiple themes. ... Using the universal LEGO Power Functions system for trains will give The LEGO Group the ability to match the demands and wishes of the AFOL Train community in the future. This is what I was saying is the upside of PF... I do not believe they will keep making the 9V RC motor, but whatever PF motors they may switch to making in the future will likely be plug and play with the current M/XL/E motors, such that when your motor eventually fails in 10 years and they're not being made anymore, there will be something that can replace it with little hassle. If they make motorized trucks, though, and discontinue them, then you're screwed.

I like it... it's like the one from POA? Too bad the movies were so inconsistent that his hut looked different in each one (more or less). Not saying I don't love the movies, just there's a lot of inconsistency. I could picture Hermione throwing a rock through the window in that side view.

I disagree. Even BrickLink doesn't pretend it's PF... The only difference between the one that comes with the set and this one, that you CAN buy in the TRAIN section of LEGO's website, is that instead of a separate cable that you can connect to PF, it's integrated... that's the only difference. If you follow that logic, I can take one of these, add a PF cable to it, and call it PF. You are likely NOT to see the one with the integrated wire separately... because there's already the one you CAN buy, in the TRAIN section, that you can already attach to PF components. Works with PF =/= PF.

I can't bear the thought of continuing to invest in a dead technology, especially when second hand prices are so inflated. I have a personal preference for 9V, and I wish LEGO would have taken a different course. There's a reason model railroaders have successfully been using powered rail for over 100 years. Yes, now we have DCC, but with the IR controls and receivers, there is certainly a way to get the best of both worlds. But TLG didn't do that... so we need to start moving, even if slowly, towards whatever LEGO is supporting now. Those 9V RC motors are not PF. TLG doesn't even call them PF (although they say they can be combined with PF components). The only "real" PF motors I'm aware of are M, XL, and E, and they are all generic motors, which is the course TLG wants to take, I think... one set of motors that can be used for anything, nothing specific for trains or cranes or anything else. So, this is my understanding: TLG was not happy with how trains were going (neither 9V nor 9V RC). The only "official" train that even has instructions (I don't think it's correct to say "designed for") PF is the EN. The two new train sets just released were already in the works when TLG decided to discontinue using 9V RC... this is from what I understand, having read a few things at the end of last year and the beginning of this year. IMO, I think TLG is going to abandon 9V RC just the same... they want generic motors, the 9V RC motor is not generic. So, again, from what I understand, TLG is already planning to abandon you if you've invested in 9V RC, and aren't even sure (or weren't, I haven't heard anything for quite some time) which route they are going to go WRT trains. From what I understand (*), there won't be new train sets probably until 2012, if not later, and based on what I'd heard, it will be PF only, if at all. So... let's get a few things straight. Personal preferences aside: 1. 9V is dead. Future availability will only get more expensive on the second hand market. Don't delude yourselves into thinking it will magically get cheaper - it won't. 2. 9V RC is current, but already deprecated. 3. PF refers to one of three motors right now: M, XL, and E. That's where trains are going, IMO, and that's where LEGO wants them to go. While I prefer electric rail, there is one benefit of using PF motors... TLG cannot pull the rug out from under you again. These motors are all over the place, inexpensive, and whatever you ultimately do to transmit power from a motor to your wheels you will need only update it with whatever new motor TLG comes up with in the future. TLG has a bad habit of constantly changing things... 12V, 9V, 9V RC, and now PF... you can't count on them for longevity of a product line, so now you won't have to as long as they produce "some" motor. If I could prod TLG to do anything, it would be WRT track... selling straights separately (or even selling long straights... 2x or 4x), and if they are going to insist on battery power, a motor with a form factor not based on technic... like an actual 4x? brick, would be nice. The E-motor might be a start of something like that. PS: still waiting for that MOC of a hand car using PF. PPS: "What's an E-Motor," you ask? It looks four wide, with a flat bottom (making me guess you can attach it brick-like). Now, the M motor has a 2-wide flat bottom, but it "torques off" because that's often not enough to hold it in place. (*) I keep saying "from what I understand" because I don't want to claim I know what TLG is doing, and certainly want to be corrected if I'm mistaken.

That's a good attitude for an 18 year old. Not to sound condescending... I know 30 and 40 year olds who think they need to act "a certain way" in order to keep their friends... I don't know when got over it. Really... how old are they? It seems to me to be a positive thing that you've peaked their interest. Often making fun of someone (especially in front of friends) is a way to avoid the truth. I'm sure you've heard the phrase "me thinks thou dost protest too much" (which is actually our modern day butchering of "The lady doth protest too much, methinks").

Sorry, not at this time.

I've never sold before (only bought), so I'm looking for North American buyers, but I suppose I can ship anywhere - the boxes are quite large, though. I set prices based on cheapest North American BL price minus some. 4504 Millennium Falcon: $260 + shipping 10026 Special Edition Naboo Fighter (with the chrome pieces): $115 + shipping 7048 Troll Warship (I have two): $70 + shipping I don't know what shipping is... haven't a clue. 10026 might fit in a fixed rate USPS box, which I'll adequately cushion, the others will require the purchase of a box and packing material. The boxes may show signs of shelf wear... I'll send a picture on request. EDIT: adding 7784 UCS Batmobile (used, built, no box, no instructions, modified [fortified] roof); some parts were replacements... $70. Instructions are downloadable from LEGO.com, but black on black pieces makes following the directions very difficult, so I recommend keeping it assembled.

Some of them do it that way. You have to remember it's a hobby for most people, so they often buy sets with pieces they want and then sell the rest. Some of them pick up stuff from PAB walls at LEGO Stores (generally, small pieces are a lot more worth it if you buy by the cup), and some people buy sets and just hold onto them until the value goes up... sometimes they list immediately because they are willing to ship to countries LEGO doesn't have a presence in... Some of them are B&M stores that actually buy directly from LEGO, but AFAIK, their contract does not allow them to part out sets... some of them do it anyway, I suspect. Everyone's got their own story.