Alasdair Ryan

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Thanks

very good and simple they call the linkage at the back a 'pto' (power take off) i like the first design of the cab better maybe you can sort of join the in the middle

the backhoe is a big model it i think it is going to be about 50-60 uk pounds

made a small mistake ther will be dupple wheels on the back i will change this on the next update heres my insperation (yes i do own on) http://www.quarrydiecastmodels.com.au/models/Conrad/images/40156-0.jpg

i am going to do my best with regular updates i am not going to better with suspension 'keeping it simple' it will be full rc with working drive,steering and and the arm for the skip overall length the chassis it make in 3 sections section 1st is the front part steering the last 2 sections the 1st section is the bigger one and the 3rd one is the small one on the end i have ordered 6 white 62.4 x 20 but i don't think i should of got white ones i will be selling this once i have finished it if you would like to pre-order it you are most welcome ps i hope every one can see the pics alright

i dont think lego will go to the hasel of makeing a few differant sizes, it would be good if you could change the lenths your self by adding parts

i do agree there going to be a pain as you might not have room for bigger motors or drive shafts perhaps we can loopy Lego to make a small motor or make new mini motors (red ones)

might me get another moterised st like the bull dozer and the excavator truck and a low lowloader would be nice to move them

i don't know exactly what you mean i have two elastic bands so that it returns to the center am i right in thinking that in order to stall a motor you could use a Gear 24 Tooth Clutch but this would mean that the motor spins or you could put a sort of a gear change thing so that it would turn off the power to the motor was operates the switch i was going to make instruction's but i cant figure out how to add bands in sr 3d builder oh and 'Ryan is my last name' but not to worry

i thought their was plenty of light in the video except from the last bit the reason why it stopped working near the end was because of the pneumatic lines in the way heres a new video of a new pump and switch in action it still needs a bit of work done as it came off at the and of the video

heres my new switch i made for a pf motor to work a pneumatic switch i ran it of some used battery's to test how much power was needed and their outcome was that they needed some half decent battery's to power it i try ed using some bands on it to work as a return to center function but i proved to heavy for the battery's (new ones) am sure some of you will to able to add to this heres the video (theres some rather interesting footage of my laboratory as well)

no there are few studed brick in there working on a skip truck for the next one

its a new excavator from me its got a working arm and blade heres the pic http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/custom-lego-technic-excavator-/320623799812?pt=UK_Construction_Toys_Kits&hash=item4aa6aaee04 i sold my dumper for £40 i do not intend to make a living out of this i just want to spread my talent please keep the comment's nice ( Milan )

Heres the new pics

ak goys i will da that far ya

hope you can see my pic all right thay are not the best biult it but something is wrong maybay you can shed a little light

very good i hope my new one will be as good as that i also have 2 mini moters i am not going to say what i have in mined for them

i tryed you switch above but i dont work i did not have a white band as you said above but i did use a black one which is in a triangle is that a gray t peice behind the cog. it does not whant to push the cog using those gray crank shaft parts forgot to post pic in my last post

thanks for the help well here is what i have been working on the last few days the la is not perfected as it likes to break its self when over extended and retracted,the drive is just built quickly, i think i might use the new style tracks this time with plates added for extra width also they are 100 times stronger than the old ones i might use the black tread rather than the gray

that one is longer than the one you are useing in the first photo?

i used the old peumatics with a new pump in my first post

i would like it to be cordless if possible making another machine this size in going to be interesting i don't think i could build any smaller with out using actuators i do believe i might get the same problems again if i build a same sized machine another thing is the weight of the thing i don't know if i can get any more power out of those drive motors and now we cone to the switches for the rams!! as the video should the do not work well so i might need to pm you allanp to get your device idea of you now i know why every body ant building excavators lol i have driven real excvator that is why i wanted to biuld one for my self and make big holes at the beach

hi jan try getting rid of the valve bock you want need it as there is enough weight in the boom to force it down,once you have extended your ram to what ever height move the switch to the middle if you are finding that it want stay up then maybe in buy yourself a new type of ram,the new liner actuators are stronger than pneumatics but people tend to use them with a motor. your wire should rise and lower hock but also rise and lower along with extending and retracting the boom

has any one got any ideas for lego for home made actuators believe it or not their are not much on brick shelf i could look at if there are any good pics on any that would be a great help