DLuders

It looks like these would indeed be useful for those huge Tatra 8x8 Trial Trucks! In regards to the possible friction issue with these new parts, one could always LUBRICATE them with the 20-weight RC Shock Oil, or (heh heh) with Extra Virgin OLIVE OIL.

arvlego made this of a large "walking lego tank based on Sariel's 'Octopod'":

ArkadionofToast posted this of "An original design I created to allow for easy switching between 4WD, RWD, and FWD. This is the first completed part of my entire RC Car, which is one of my projects for this summer."

On Sheepo's Garage website, there are 10 detailed pictures and a new YouTube video of a "retro MOC" -- a Lego Technic Dodge Viper RT 10. Sheepo "...built this MOC between years 2000 and 2002 (I was 15...), and it received a little modifications in 2005. In that time I spend over 80% of my parts to build this car. Some parts of the car comes from set 8448." More pictures appear on his Brickshelf gallery. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dhSDI6TlFmU

Swing-wing Grumman F-14D Tomcat fighter aircraft by Joshua Ciesielski -- LXF and PDF Parts List. It is the plane featured in the "Top Gun" movie.

Here is Conchas' of 7 -- The Suspension:

Joshua Ciesielski recently posted this of his Lego Grumman F-14D Tomcat which he modeled in Lego Digital Designer (LDD). It has a realistic, "swing wing" construction of the aircraft featured in the popular 1986 movie "Top Gun". He wrote,"My LEGO Grumman F-14D Tomcat model has 1,644 parts, costs $350 & has 40 points of articulation. Took a month to design on LEGO Digital Designer. Check out more detailed pics & my other models on MOC Pages: http://www.mocpages.com/moc.php/250020 ." There, you will find a link to the LDD .lxf Building Instructions file. Using LDD Manager, I made a PDF Parts List document available on MegaUpload here. On MOCpages, Joshua Ciesielski wrote, "This is my greatest creation, 1,644 pieces or 4 lbs of LEGO. Been wanting to do this one for a while but my "skills" weren't up to the task. As all your comments keeped my F-35B Lightning II on MOC's home page for over a week, it made sit down & try. It has 40! points of articulation, 2 more than my F-35B. The main landing gear was the hardest to enginer (about 2 weeks), for the gear doors close just like the real plane. The swing wings were actually easy, & the mechanism that allows both wings to swing actually worked the first time (luck). I think this is one of the best LEGO F-14s (except for Mad Physicist [Ralph_S on Eurobricks]. If you're not familiar with him, check out his models on Flickr. NO ONE makes better LEGO vehicles)."

Conchas/ Conchinhas has a 7-part video review series of the Lego 8110 Unimog U400 set. Here are the first two YouTube videos -- click on the hyperlink to have the option to view them in High Definition (HD): of 7 -- The Portal Axles: of 7 -- The Chassis Internals:

MasaoHidaka posted this about "How to make my own LEGO Monorail [first video shown below].We can make the Rail without special brick. Please check " " [second video shown below]. You can check running Monorail: " " [additional video]I submitted this Monorail in LEGO CUUSOO. I would like to be given 1000 supports: http://www.cuusoo.com/LEGO/user/025434/0011/ ."

Have you seen Sariel's "PF Arm" for ideas?

For ideas, TechnicBRICKS had an article about a "Lego PF 3D Light Show" using Power Functions (PF) motors for 3-dimensional movement. If you don't mind the BASE ITSELF moving, perhaps it could be replicated using your NXT motors:

TechnicBRICKS had this article about the redesigned 16-tooth Lego Technic Gear. Here are the old and new versions: Jetro and Sariel pointed out the three different types of Lego Clutch Gears. Scroll 1/2 the way down Sariel's Gears Tutorial to read about these: Scroll 3/4 of the way down that same Gears Tutorial to read about the three different types of 8-Tooth Technic Gears:

Ten finalists have been selected by TLG's Technic Designers judges -- place your vote here (by the end of June 2011) for one of these models:

@ cutrofiano: Welcome to Eurobricks! Your modification to the 853 Car Chassis looks great! It's good that your mom kept your Lego set for 34 years -- my mom gave my stuff away....

On his Brickshelf gallery, Doc27/ cbriste27 posted BIG closeup pictures and a of his "8070 with PFS [Power Functions System], XL for power driving and M for steering with original functions." While there are no step-by-step Building Instructions, there may be enough details to be able to figure it out. 4Lord posted a "Simple steering mechanism for 8070" on his Brickshelf gallery, complete with a Lego Digital Designer (LDD) .lxf file (containing the Building Guide). He advised that "You need to replace white 24 Tooth Gear with 24 Tooth Clutch Gear." http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/4lord/8070-steering/8070steering.jpg

From TLG's Powerfunctions Frequently-Asked Questions (FAQ) webpage, it says: "As a rule of thumb, you can drive 2 Power Functions XL-Motors, 3 Power Functions Train Motors or 4 Power Functions M-Motors at the same time from one Power Functions Battery Box. If you wish to run a combination of motors, you can e.g. have 1 XL and 2 M running together. The XL-Motor requires about twice as much power as the M-Motor. The Battery Boxes and the IR Receiver have overload protection, so attempting to drive too many motors will not damage anything. The power a motor consumes depends on what function the motor is performing. Motors will operate best when driving a small load." "Overload protection is activated when too much power is consumed from either a Power Functions Battery Box or the IR Receiver. This can happen when a motor is blocked or when too many motors are running at the same time. If overload protection is activated, the Battery Box or the IR Receiver will cut off power to the output until power consumption has dropped under the allowed value. To regain power, unblock the motor or disconnect motors from the output – then turn the Battery Box OFF and ON again. Under overload protection, the green light on the Power Functions Battery Box will still be ON."

These are very nice renders! It's difficult to distinguish between the render and the photograph:

With the onset of winter in the Southern Hemisphere , Miha2548 posted many Brickshelf pictures and a of his Lego Technic Halftrack "H-Truggy". "One XL motor for tracks, one for wheels. M-motor is in steering. Gear ratio of wheels is 8.3, of tracks is 5, steering ratio is 9."

@ Superkalle: What happens when you remove the two Technic Half Bushes from the front of the car, and replace the four blue (friction-type) Axle Pins with the (non-friction-type) 3749 Axle Pins? Everything would be more free to slide around, and the wheels could possibly turn at a greater angle.

@ Chrizzle: Philo (Phillippe Hurbain) talks about the various 9V Lego Motors on this "LEGO® 9V Technic Motors Compared Characteristics" webpage. He wrote, "RC Race Buggy Motor 5292 is really powerful, but requires a power supply up to the task." The stalled current for the 5292 motor is 3.2 Amps. The 8878 "Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box" can only deliver 7.4 V (not 9V), according to Sariel's below. You may need to select another Battery Box that can deliver the high Amps needed for the 5292 Buggy motors. Philo wrote that the 5292 Buggy motor "...seems to have a current limitation of about 4A, and a thermal shutdown providing on/off cycling like RCX motor driver." I remember that my son built a Lego Battlebot with whirling blades attached to a 5292 motor and a conventional 8881 Power Functions battery box. Whenever the blade got stuck on its opponent, the current limiter on the Power Functions RC Receiver kicked in, and the 5292 Buggy motor had to rest a few seconds to recover. I agree with P4trickvH that using TWO PF receivers will help.

@ yoraish: Nico71 also made the fine "TTools" software for Trial Trucks.

Have you seen this Techbricks.nl webpage for ideas?

I like #7, with its vertical dark "chain" pattern of the window frames.

It seems that the "studded" construction of your tank cannot withstand the turning movements without coming apart. The many 1x1 bricks that you have in your outer (camouflaged) shell does not help much. From the photographs, it seems that there are no Technic Bricks or Technic Liftarms to "tie" your sides together. One could use a frame of Technic Bricks, and fill the pin holes with 1/2 pins that can hold Plates on the outside surface. The inside could be braced with Technic Liftarms holding the Technic Bricks:

The 3723 LEGO Mini-Figure is taller than one foot, but I think you will enjoy building it. There is a link to the PDF Building Instructions there.