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aminnich

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Everything posted by aminnich

  1. ok, this is going to sound like I have know idea what im doing, but I only really know 1:3 gearing. and what do you mean by using thin lift arms on either side? if I do that I wont have much room to connect the motors to the rest of the chassis and body. I mean sure the 2 studs would help, but I am not sure that it would be beneficial. unless you have a solution. THX again
  2. wow, u guys are great efferman; I am using the same tires as on the 42009 crane (not sure what the number are tho) busterkhaus; that is the idea i wanted to use andythenorth; thanks are taking apart your model to show me. I will have to modify your design because of ground clearance, but it is a good source for an idea. Brickhaus's picture is more what i was thinking. I also noticed that you gear it down 1:3 twice, do you think i have to?
  3. will keep all that in mind. thanks
  4. Thanks for all the recommendations everyone. To answer efferman first, I am using the same tires that are on the 42009 mobile crane. I am going to use 2 battery boxes, but I don’t know what you mean by a servo operated switch. Your idea, looks like a good one and I will have it try it out. Busterhaus, I also like your idea, I like that the motors are right at the wheel (sure I would have to move it up and gear it down, but ya well). The only thing im not sure about with it is how wide it is. The motor is 7 studs long, so 14 plus the wheels, that could be pretty wide. I will try it out though Andythenorth, I like your design the best, have the motor kinda side by side. I cant quite make out how the gearing is done inside, so if you could post a more detailed pic, that would be awesome.
  5. only the rear wheels will be powered. I just thought that powering all of the wheels would be an alternative for differentials, but I guess that it wouldn't know that i think about it. But what about the TATRA 8 X 8 vehicles? They usually don’t use a differential, what is the difference. In ZBLJ’s 8 X 8 X 8, each wheel is powered by a XL geared down 1:3. This is the idea I wanted to achieve. (but with L motors)
  6. Ok, sounds good. thanks for ur help
  7. I was just going to go to RadioShack and pick up some LEDs and wire (possibility a switch). could I just use the LEGO battery pack, or do I need another source of power?
  8. ya, that wasn't really my question, but interesting to know. Kinda off topic, but want do you think about making your own LED lights?
  9. Ok, I am just going to buy the power functions. They will definitely be easier to use
  10. I agree, they are very expense compared to a RC motor.
  11. I want to have the motors in the rear of the truck, but Im not sure if their is enough room. I was hoping someone would have an idea, and maybe even LDD idea that I could look at.
  12. I have tried that (at least to what I think ur explaining). if you do it that way, their is too much room in between the axles and wheels and it doesn't look so great
  13. Hey guys, I have been thinking about an idea that a EB member told me to try, but im having trouble pondering how to apply it to my model. The idea is to take an L motor, gear in down 1:3, and power each wheel individually. Sounds like a great idea, but im not sure how you could do that in a small space. I want to use this concept on a 4 axle semi truck (powering the rear 3 axles). So first I need to get 6 L motors, but I need some ideas on how I could do this. I am use to running an XL motor to the drive shaft, but I have not had experience with L motors a lot. If you can help me, that would be awesome, keep in mind it is a semi truck, so I don't want to make it too wide. Thanks!
  14. Ya, I guess your right. I am ok with making my own stuff, I just thought it would be cheaper. I am just buy the LEGO power functions
  15. Hey guys, I did not want to start a new topic because it deals with the same thing, Has anyone successfully made motors that have the same specifications as the power functions motors? Because I know for a fact that it would be much cheaper to make a motor work, instead of buying the power functions motors. I know I sound cheap, but I’d rather spend the money on more technic pieces (which cant be made), than spend money on the power functions. Any thoughts?
  16. I am not looking to build an off road trial truck. And I want to use the wheels I have, especially if im going to be buying 6 L motors. This is the truck that would crawl. Basically the 9397 logging truck with some modifications.
  17. even tho you only need the brick for the lego cab, while for the technic cab you need the technic beam plus the pins? but what ur saying makes sense just wanted to double check.
  18. The truck is geared down 1:3. The truck is a work in progress. It no built , I wanted a bunch of questions answer before I started, so I would not have to tear it all down and restart over and over. This way I will know what im doing when I start building for real.
  19. Hey guys, I am wondering which would be lighter. If I made a cab for a semi truck out of Technic or Lego pieces, which would be lighter. The Lego model would not be as detailed at 2Legoornot2lego's trucks, but still have some detail. and the technic cab would be the size of the 9397 logging truck (basically the same but with some detail modifications). If anyone can help, that would be great.
  20. Wow, that truck would be very cool as a Lego, but it was not what I was thinking. I wanted to try and build a daycab 379 peterbilt like the one in the link, but black and with a third rear axle. http://www.autopia.org/forums/the-detailers-showcase/35001-hammered-2005-peterbilt-379-daycab-ex-loggers-truck.html I want to stick with the same tires, but are you talking about the first video? Ur saying that the truck in the first video could pull 25kg?!? If so that is what I'm going to do. If not I think if their is a way to use a gearbox, to switch to a "pull mode" I will do that
  21. The first vehicle speed would be fantastic, but it wasn't pulling weight or anything. But is there a way to power each wheel with that speed, but then be able to gear it down to be able to pull the weight? Btw, I am using the wheels from the mobile crane (42009). As for the size, I can have as many axles, but I don't want to have to buy 10 L motors for 5 axles, that would get expensive. So I like the speed of the L motor directly to the wheel, but if their is a way to have a gear box to gear it down, that would be cool. With this I would be able to drive truck at a nice speed, but then when the trailer is hooked up, I have to power to pull it. I don't know if it is possible, but you guys are the pros. Thanks for all the suggestions.
  22. Ok now that is a suggestion of what I could do. I will try individually powering each wheel, instead of each axle. And yes when I say crawling, It is slower than the loader. Im not 100% sure of what the ratio is, but ik it is geared down pretty good.
  23. I am not concerned about scale at all, if I was my trailer and semi truck would have to be about half their size to be the same scale as the Loader. Can we please get back to a way to get more torque and speed out of a motor?
  24. I am not necessarily looking to go the same speeds as the true transport.
  25. you are correct, and I understand that a normal truck with that kinda weight on it would be going slow. I just wanted the truck to move a little faster than slow. I understand that the heavy hauler LEGO truck needs the strength the pull and that means I need the torque over the speed. I just wish there was a way to have some of both. I know their are others out their that feel the same way. Do you think that a fairly large gear box would help? So that the speed slowly increases, instead of a faster start out speed. The Gearbox would work just like a transmission in a big rig. Idk, I am just rambling
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