Frank STENGEL

The problem in running it in PF is the battery box. The curved bricks that are SNOTted have to be held somehow... An idea is putting the battery box partly inside the cab: 5 studs inside the cab and 3 instide the front/rear part (so as to be able to do something about holding the vertical parts together). One would then have just enough space to put the reciever in front of the battery with the black bit protruding through the roof...

Where do you put the battery box and the receiver?

Very nice. I love the yellow head nose. Is it motorized?

I think 7220 is a rendition of the E 69 DB locomotive. See: As a matter of fact, it is more E69 05 (169 005-6)

Same here. Being an optimist, I think LegoSjaak's explanation is the most likely one. It would be a shame if Lego had underestimated the volume of orders...

Obvious I must be way too careful with mine...

Amazing. How did you make the valves operate easily? I usually have to apply quite a lot of force on mine...

Amazing . Does it really work? I'd love to see a quick movie of its operation...

Beautiful . I love the removable roof on the caboose and the general attention to detail. The door handles are just grat.

Very good MOC. Everything is really well designed.

Interesting Just out of curiosity, how big is your circuit ?

Good point. I was thinking about my trains and not about cagri's. My locs are 8 (sometimes even 9) wide and they would hit the post with a vengance...

Looking better and better. Found the ghost It looks appropriately frightened.

I remember receiving that set. Oh boy, that was a loooong time ago...

Nice! One possible improvement would be using BBB XL drivers...

Indeed. By the way, does anyone know if there (and when) were minifigs in the early 70's. I vaguely remeber the little men that were built uisng bricks and articulated arms and arm/legless minifigs, but not when they appeared

Simple yet beautiful. I love the cowcatcher.

Beautiful. I suddenly feel 40 years younger

Very nice. The amazing thing is the use of plates in shades of brown to produce a brick effect. As stated before, the signal should be another stud further away from the tracks.

The thing with using pantographs to hold onto catenary wires is that curves become tricky: they are a succession of straight lines. What I mean is that one will have to take into account the fact that the catenary wire goes straight from pole to pole and that with the LEGO curves the distance between the wire and the centre of the curve will be quite important.

That would be nice. Thanks in advance

Well, there are a couple of big boys chugging along in the train tech forum. SavaTheAggie has found very interesting techniques for articulating the wheel base while keeping the boiler straight; look at his flikr stream (especially his Allegheny class 2-6-6-6) ...

Beautiful

Nice. Instead of the trans red/green 1x1 round plates, I would have put plain transparent ones. As for spacing I think that one every track section is more than enough. On straight runs one could go to one every other section...