Blakbird

Instructions for Akiyuki's Train Module are now tested and complete and are available here. This Module is really made up of a bunch of smaller modules. I've listed the parts lists sepately for those who don't want to build the whole thing. Motor (157 parts) Switch (167 parts) Unloader (324 parts) Siding (106 parts) Loader (603 parts) Crane (3046 parts) Complete Set (4569 parts) Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to Courbet who did the work making an LDraw file with instruction steps. I had the easy job of formatting the instructions. The Train Module is really a series of smaller modules, not all of which are required to make a layout. At minimum a motor, loader, switch, and unloader are required. The crane loader can be swapped for the simple loader. If a siding is added to increase throughput, then an additional motor is required. If you want to build everything then there is a loader, crane loader, siding, 2 motors, switch, unloader, and connecting tracks. The instructions show how to make 3 different layout options, but of course there are others. The images below show how many of each sub-module would be needed for each type of layout. The last layout uses the most parts, but still does not include the loader because it uses the crane loader instead. This is a really complex module, perhaps even more so than the Ball Factory. Unlike the ball factory, relatively little timing is required. The crane itself is self timed because every mechanical motion drives another. The triggers need to be timed to fire at the right point in the cycle. This is pretty straightforward. There is some additional timing in the "timer" of the crane module at the worm gearboxes, but if you orient the parts as shown in the instructions it will work correctly. As has been elsewhere discussed, I had problems with the power requirements of the crane. Anyone interested in adding an extra motor to solve this problem can see my previous post on the matter.

That's an expensive spacer! The ring is less than 1/2 stud but still more than 1/4 stud in width. I might give it a try if I can find a couple of them. I spent most of last night working on the problems and I managed to solve most of them although my solutions may not be for everyone. For the problem with the switch mechanism hopping the wedge, the problem was that it took too much force to switch the transmission. I changed to a smooth axle joiner which solved the problem but then had a but too little friction and would slip out of gear. I rotated the smooth axle joiner 90 degrees to use the "tall" side instead of the "low" side against the driving ring and now it works perfectly. Not a single problem with this since. The skipping of the bevel gears and the lack of power are really the same problem. If the power requirements are reduced, then the gears don't skip. I managed to fix it by adding a motor. I realize this is no longer faithful to Akiyuki's design, but it work. I put a motor on the back of the crane module on the axle that passes over from the hopper. This drives the crane much nearer to the power requirements instead of so far remotely. To turn the motor on and off I used a pole reverser. A little 4-bar linkage at the end buffer is impacted by the train which starts the second motor. A mechanism connected to this is hit when the trigger fires. When the trigger hits the switching axle on the train, this axle pokes out the other side. I used the force of the trigger on the other side of the module by picking up the motion of this switch axle to shut the switch off. There is also a stop to prevent the pole reverser from ever going backward, which is bad. The train motor and the secondary motor are still mechanically coupled. If they were not connected, the crane would get out of sequence with the trigger. The secret is to run the second motor just fast enough to help but not fast enough to actually backdrive the train. Once I got it all set, it works perfectly. I ran it for about 1/2 hour with no problems. I would still like to build some conduits to hide the ugly wires which are messing up the beauty of Akiyuki's module, but otherwise I am pretty happy with it. I am going to release the instructions soon. I don't think I will include my changes in the official instructions, but I can provide details if anyone is interested.

The typical production run of a LEGO set is 2 years, but of course a store can have them indefinitely if they do not sell. I've seen 10+ year old sets at some stores.

I have good news and bad news. The good news is that I finished the instructions for the Train Module with Crane Loader. If you build everything, it is 262 pages of instructions and >4500 parts. The bad news is the module has has lots of problems. The first problem is traction. The train wheels do not have enough friction to enter the module with enough inertia to engage the mechanism. They slip very easily. I solved this problem by removing the hard rubber bands from the train wheels and replacing them with some rubber bands my daughter uses to make bracelets. They are 1000 for a couple of dollars. This completely solved the problem. Now it has enough traction to stall the motor if you stop the train. The next problems are with the motor module (see picture below). In the orange highlighted area you can see that the wheels are not constrained. They can slide along the axle. They need to be midway between the clutch gear and the side rail to fit in the tracks, but this also means they can (and do) slide around and screw things up. We need a way to put in a 1/4 stud spacer to lock them in place. In the yellow highlighted area you can see the bevel gears that drive the wheels. These gears are not braced so they can (and do) easily skip. Ideally, there would be a gearbox housing around them. But at the very least, the train side rails need a cross brace to hold them together. When the white rails push apart, the gears skip. There is nothing solid holding the rails together, and it is not obvious how to add something without interfering with some part of the mechanism. The next problem is on the crane. The yellow wedge is supposed to push in the axle on the train and put it into neutral. However, on many occasions the axle rides up over the top of the wedge instead. When this happens, the train does not go into neutral and may even derail. The wedge cannot be made higher without interfering with the trigger. I tried putting a 1/2 bush on the end of the axle but then it was even worse. The final and most serious problem is power. The train barely has enough power to move the crane, and in many cases it just stalls. I checked all the joints for friction and do not find any issues. In fact, the whole thing runs very easily by hand. Perhaps much of the drag comes from the knob wheels, but in any case the crane does not reliably work without enough power. I tried changing to an L motor which provided plenty of power but caused even more gear skipping in the train bevel gears. I had a crazy idea for how the train motor could be given a little help. The axle highlighted in red below connects the timer/trigger mechanism to the crane and transmits power. A differential could be added here in series with this axle, and a second motor could be attached to the diff ring gear. If a pole reverser was used at the end-of-line buffer, this motor would only run when the train was present and would provide some extra power, then shut off. If the second motor were unpowered, the diff would allow the train power to simply bypass it. I am hesitant to release the instructions until these problems are solved. On the other hand, it will be hard for anyone to offer solutions without building it first!

It also did not help that the picture could not be enlarged. Sometimes you can click on the picture to get a bigger version, but not this time.

Thanks for another file and more work for me to do! Did you see the photos on Akiyuki's blog? He has one from the bottom that should help with the gearing for the turntable.

I am making good progress on the Crane Loader. I have draft instructions for the crane, switch, and motor and have collected the parts and started building. This is a really giant pile of parts! I am about 30% done so far. I've been improving the instructions as I go. One thing I noticed in Akiyuki's 2012 video is that he uses two trains. One waits on a switch track until the other passes. This would be good in a layout because the crane module is pretty slow so this would double your throughput. Courbet, any interest in whipping up a file for the switch track just for completeness?

Wow, that was fast work. You are certainly keeping me busy all right. I've been working on Technicopedia updates lately which have caused me to spend a bit less time on this project, but I am still working on it. I love his new website. I actually tried to use the comment form there as well, but couldn't get it to work. It kept timing out. I'm glad you confirmed that he is pleased with the project.

As a rule, I don't modify official sets. The cases listed are the only I can think of where I've done it. If you can find one that I didn't remember, then you are a bigger fan of Technicopedia than I am. Your prize is pride.

Try a hammer.

Wow, that was fast! That's right, 3 models with dual rear wheels (and also an extra diff on 8258), plus the 3rd part tires and black chassis of 41999. I don't count 42006 because the PF are per instructions so it is not a mod.

Extra wheels, but no other changes. All together, there are 4 models on the site which have been visibly modified. Can you find the others?

I just looked at the model, and you are quite right it is the suspension links. I will update the site. Thanks! Although I have the tape I haven't seen the video in years because I no longer have a VCR to play it.

I've been increasing my appreciation of this car as I study the details. The transmission is especially clever. I thought it was worth some renders!

How can anyone answer that when you don't even tell us what they are?

I didn't realize it was erroneously on that list. Thanks for mentioning it, I will fix it. Also nice to know you are the designer of that set. I did own it at one point and still have the CD that came with it. I contacted LEGO at one point about finding out who the designer of each set was, but they indicated they do not have that kind of information, or at least were unwilling to share it. I find it fascinating to see how each model fits the personality of a designer. Of course, this is much more apparent with MOCs that do not have to follow "the rules".

It would be convenient if there was a clear definition of "Technic" to avoid this kind of question, but there isn't. Expert Builder predates Technic so could theoretically be excluded, but I included it. There were technical sets before this even, including the Samsonite gears, but I didn't include those. There are lots of other sets which use Technic parts. There's also Bionicle. I had to draw the line somewhere, but there will always be disagreement. In the modern world, LEGO has finally solved this problem and it is easy to say which new sets for this year are Technic. In the past it was not so.

If you look WAY back at the beginning of this topic, there was discussion around the issue of what to include in Technicopedia and what not to include. Very early I made the decision not to include the robotic stuff like Mindstorms because that is really a different category. I considered Spybotics and Cybermaster part of that list, and 8450 The Mission is a Cybermaster expansion set. That's why you don't see it on the site. On the other hand, I also originally decided not to include Competition, Slizer, Roborider, or Star Wars and now you see all of those on my site so there is no guarantee I won't change my mind!

There are no dynamics involved; the system is statically determinate. The bungee cords form a closed loop. As the cable drum connected to the wheels pulls the weight forward, the bungee cord at the back gets tighter and tighter making it more difficult to turn the wheels. The cords in the animation are loose because it is impossible to make a stop motion animation with them tight. The weight would move.

Update: Update to Technicopedia. Includes 2000 with sets 8000, 8001, 8002, 8003, 8004, 8005, 8006, 8236, 8237, 8238, 8279, 8305, 8307, 8457, 8458, 8509, 8510, 8511, 8512, 8513, 8514, 8516, 8521, 8522, and 8523. Updates Slizer, Roborider, and Star Wars categories with improved pictures and descriptions. Error fixes. This update was a big one for me because it means I am finally over the hump. This is true not only because I entered the new millennium, but because I finished 1999 and 2000 which have 25 models each. From here on, there are far fewer models to write about and, theoretically, things will progress more quickly.

Yes, they work fine. The motors will just run a little slower. The current requirements are not high. They should work fine. Yes, it is refillable. The cap just screws off. It is much smaller than that, but you can just fold paper to fit.

I have no plan to do the V2, but if someone sends me an LDraw file I will make instructions. Not sure about that. It would not be an Akiyuki design. In any case, I haven't made any mods yet anyway. I will report back on what I find when I do.

Fantastic find! I love these old models. The Control Center in particular is a real gem. Don't forget to build the dinosaur.

How can I get the instructions for this car? The link on ReBrickable doesn't work.

Instructions for Akiyuki's Archimedes Screw Module (Type 3) are now tested and complete and are available here along with a Brickstore parts list. 66 pages 768 parts Most of the credit for reverse engineering this module goes to Courbet who did the work making an LDraw file with instruction steps. I had the easy job of formatting the instructions. For the first time, I am posting instructions for a module I have not actually built. Courbet did the test build using the instructions and confirmed there are no problems. This module is mechanically pretty simple to there is no timing to set up. The ribbed hoses are not included in the parts lists, but the lengths are called out in the instructions. The hoses do not exist in the exact lengths needed, so either longer lengths will need to be cut down or the required lengths will need to be built up from shorter segments. Akiyuki's later videos show an updated version of this module with a considerably larger and more rigid frame. If anyone is interested in reverse engineering the updated sections, I will be happy to post a "V2" instructions.