FGMatt

Thanks

Looks great! What part did you use as the connecting rod between the driving wheels?

Cheers, very thorough! It's going to be an exceedingly large layout, so the power supply will all be customised rather than using any Lego components. I'm planning to keep corners relatively to a minimum; no more than 90 degrees within the train length, and I'm also thinking of making a larger radius by alternating pieces of curved with straight track.

Fantastic! I always feel that it's the details that really make something like this great.

Indeed, if it was easy I'd have done it myself!

973px18 - Torso, shirt with pockets pattern does a reasonable job as a naval warm-weather officers' uniform for most navies (I can't seem to upload a picture for some reason)

Has anyone come up with a good way to build the red/white St Andrew's cross that marks an unguarded level crossing (UK - I think it's a general sign for level crossing elsewhere in Europe)? I've got a couple of OK brick-built concepts, but they're not brilliant and a bit large anyway; does anyone have any suggestions?

Can you not just make a "topless" MILS tile on which the baseplates sit? They'll be loose, but as long as they're surrounded by other plates that shouldn't be an issue. I think that a baseplate sitting on top of a stud is the same height as a plate.

Well that would certainly make things simpler! Thanks

I'm planning on using 12V tracks to run a very long and heavy train, so I want to use multiple motors. I don't want to use multiple 12V motor units because: They're eye-wateringly expensive It will be difficult to use electrically-separate sections of track, as the motors will all be picking up whichever section they're in (unless I modify the aforementioned vastly-expensive motors) So it seems like a simple solution to use the very cheap RV 9V motors, create a 12V-connector-to-9V-plate wire and then either: Run the whole thing at a maximum of 9V Run the whole thing at 12V and hopefully not blow up the 9V motors Make a special brick (probably from machined brass) containing a 9V regulator as part of the adaptor Does anyone have any thoughts - or even better experience - with doing anything relevant? One thing I'm wondering is whether there's any significant speed differential between the RC and 12V motors when running at the same voltage; I don't really want the back half of the train trying to overtake the front.