Fluwoeb

Thanks for the suggestion! I'll let you know what happens after I get back around to it.

Hey, I think it's worth bragging on just so that people like me who haven't seen your design yet can, well, see it. lol

I am currently using a HobbyWing 3652SL 3250KV motor run with a 11.1v lipo. (I bought this ESC and motor combo from Amazon) The final gear ratio is 23.57:1. I think part of my problem with the jerkiness is due to the controller, I just need to fiddle with the throttle trim a little more. I am using a 3 channel GoolRC receiver and controller. For now I am putting this project aside to focus on a build for TC27:)

Thank you! Thanks! And yes, I agree, it would look better with bigger wheels. The problem I had was that I bought some 1.9" rock crawler tires, but the chassis wasn't lifted enough to fit them under the wheel wells. So I temporarily bought some of the red 56mm D. wheels and the thin tires (which were really the cheapest option ). My main problems with putting bigger wheels is the reduction of torque (it is already very fast, but I haven't been able to measure the speed yet), and the initial jerk of the motor when I start accelerating the truck. I plan to put one of the Lego clutches in-between the motor and the drivetrain to possibly help reduce the initial jerk, and then to make a bigger gear reduction gearbox between the motor and the drivetrain to help with torque for off road driving. The funny thing is I already have an RC 3:1 planetary gearbox on the end of the motor, it is just so powerful!

Here is a picture of a 3+R transmission I built entirely using bevel gears, except for the visible 8t and 24t gears on the outside. (I don't have any more pictures of it unfortunately) And here is a half-track truck I built a while ago... that was the last time I used my PF servo because I did not protect the gears in the drivetrain and they ate the cable. Now for a high-ground-clearance axle that at the time I thought was revolutionary, though it does work really well since the gears go straight into the inside of the wheel. Moving on here is a 4x4 vehicle I made, which I never ended driving since I didn't get the drivetrain all connected. Sorry for the blurry photos:) This is where I had started using a PF M motor for steering after my servo died... I used torsion bars for the front suspension:) Here is a 2WD model I made. The u-joint geometry on the rear axle was not correct, but it operated okay. I think I put just a simple two-speed transmission in it. Here is the front of a chassis with a Boxer-8 piston engine. I never finished this one... lol I mainly wanted to get good suspension articulation and a sharp steering angle for this model along with fitting the piston engine on top. Here is yet another 2WD chassis. I don't know why I had to do two inline-4 piston engines right next to each other... I also don't know what I was doing with the rear axle drivetrain... sorry, these are blurry again... Alright, now for a model I completed. I took the chassis out of a small remote control car, and replaced it:) (This was my first try and it worked well minus a little bit of rubbing on the front wheel fenders) These are some underbelly images of a second iteration... which I couldn't find any more pictures of. And here are some pictures of yet another version, but this time I didn't finish it. (notice how this one got more and more sophisticated with a piston engine, linear actuator for steering, and Ackerman steering geometry) And now... for a tracked vehicle,because it doesn't have a turret to make it a tank:)

I did get my truck operational, I just have to apply stickers and rebuild the rear part of the chassis... again. I did the paint job myself so let me know what you think! After I got it working and drove it around a little, I had to reprint the RC motor-to-Lego adapter because it started cracking and the motor spindle was spinning inside of it, and then the new CV joints gave out... I didn't have the CV joints at the best angle going to the rear diff so they ended up breaking, but they did so in a very unique way which I haven't seen before, at least from what I have seen on the EB forum with some of the people who have used the new CV joints with Buwizz. The longer part of the piece was largely intact with little damage, but the other part of it... As you can see the little knobs or pins that stuck out from the inside of the short piece got smushed...

What if we did a battle-bot contest? Like a contest with limits on LxWxH dimension, but besides that I don't know what this contest would actually look like. (I don't know if this has been done already, but I noticed you mentioned it at the beginning of this topic @Jim) Also, side note, but what do you think about doing a collaborative contest? Like where we have a couple people working together to build one thing. For the most part I think everyone would have to collaborate digitally, but maybe one of the participants could build the design and submit it. I think everyone here is more than capable of building their own design individually, but when they have a time crunch and other more important life responsibilities a partner might be helpful.

Hello @David G, could you please provide more information about this Lego set? The set number would be helpful. I am guessing this is some kind of Mindstorms set, but I don't know for sure.

Hello everyone! I am a recently new EB forums member (joined in 2020). I am a college student in the US pursuing Mechanical Engineering. I really enjoy building vehicles and mechanisms with Lego Technic to help visualize the ideas in my head and the designs I learn about from other people. I wanted to create this topic so I can record my older mocs and have a place to keep some current ones and W.I.P.'s as well. I will start adding more old pictures to this topic as I have time. I hope you enjoy all of these old (some finished, some not) M.O.C.'s of mine from my passionate hobby in Lego:) To get started, here is one of my oldest mocs to date, the R34 Wasp Jet (I made that name up btw): I have some other mocs from that era that I will share pictures of, but I have to transfer them from my camera SD card to my BrickSafe:) First I will share some other mocs that I have uploaded pictures of to my BrickSafe already. Here is an old Hummer W.I.P. I never finished... lol. I was waiting to buy some of these parts for the front axle wheel hubs. (sorry for weird camera angles) (note the use of a technic bushing as a differential lock selector ) Here is my one and only Battlebot. It is powered by two PF XL motors with a 24:1 gear ratio (worm gear to 24-tooth). I designed it as a big version of the 2x3 slope brick, but I have no idea if I actually created it at an accurate scale ratio, lol. I could have added a caster wheel towards the front, but I never got around to that. I used it against my brother's Mindstorms EV3 bot that he created which was 6x6 and my bot worked excellently. The Mindstorms just kept losing wheels and could not tip over my bot. The downside was that I did not create any attack mechanisms, so was really just playing defense the whole time:)

Here is a picture of it from when I originally built it 5+ years ago as you can see from the date stamp... The only non-bevel gears are the visible 8t and 24t gears.

I found it, thanks! I really like the McPherson suspension you designed, I'll have to try it out and see how well it works.

Here is the RC body for my WIP truck. It is based on a 1979 Ford F-series, and I still need to apply stickers and put holes in it to connect it to the chassis (which is nearly finished). The truck body is a 1/10 scale replica, and I am designing the chassis with a 35-stud wheelbase (from wheel center to wheel center). I had already made one draft of the chassis but the transmission and rear axle had weak points, so I have redesigned the orientation of my steering and drive motors, and battery so that it can accommodate a different more rigorous drivetrain and rear axle. My favorite part was that I was also able to include an RWD/4WD selector and a rear diff lock with the latest prototype chassis so I can go drifting!!! P.S. I also have some extra servos from an old scrapped RC plane so I will be able to control the RWD/4WD and diff lock remotely!! Hey @msk6003! That looks pretty neat so far! I would be interested to see how you designed your suspension (in front and rear) as I have dabbled with those 30.4mm D. wheels quite a bit...

Wait and see... You'll love it I'm sure!

Here is a small update:) I added a V10 to the front axle, and it fits very nicely in-between the shock absorber posts. I have used this method to hold a piston engine before, but I didn't use a pulley piece for to locate the camshaft, which is a little unconventional. I wanted to get as close of a spacing to the axle as possible while keeping the 12tooth bevel for steering from colliding with the engine camshaft so I used some old half bushings as you can see if you look closely.

Thanks! It will be able to easily drift, as long as I am able to integrate an RWD/AWD selector that is. The power the RC components have is unreal:) Also, that is a really simple idea for getting a caster angle on your suspension, I like it! It might be a good idea to put some 5L liftarms vertically on your suspension arms to help brace them, of course you'll have to space them apart 2 studs with the offset of the suspension arms though:) But you mentioned working on strengthening everything so you probably are already on this.

@2GodBDGlory Yes, it is a virtual pivot steering system! Ever since I saw LegoMarat's Dakar Hummer model, I wanted to recreate a virtual pivot suspension system that was a little more robust. Unfortunately my design does not get the pivot point in the center of the wheels, it is more towards the inner edge, but it will be helpful either way because it will decrease wear on the tires with use. I used the differential from the Ferrari set and the CV joints from the Audi e-tron set. It worked out quite well and I was able to fit the a V-10 on top using the standard Lego piston engine

Thanks @pow! I haven't dabbled in PU yet, but it seems like it could provide a nice compromise between PF and Mindstorms. It has more precise motor rotation and the motors are better compatible with Technic. Thanks @2GodBDGlory! The front suspension uses 3 of this part on both sides... and I used this liftarm for the top suspension. It was a concept I had thought of after seeing some similar go-cart suspension designs and I wanted to do something outside of the conventional wishbone setup like the 8070 set or the 42021 set (which I have). Also, for the wheels I didn't want to use the Flat Silver color of the wheel and introduce a new color, maybe I would if I rebuilt the car with a different color scheme though. Thanks @gyenesvi! I hope the extra BrickSafe pictures were helpful with that. I will probably get some more of just the chassis so you can see better, having a bunch of black parts doesn't help either especially with my lighting and photography skills. lol Thanks @Zerobricks! I simply didn't have enough room for the 6 stud suspension arms and towballs. It seems to work well, I haven't had any trouble with it getting jammed during outdoor use:)

Okay, so I ended up getting busy again, but here are some pictures for you guys. It is going to have a hobby RC body and components but for the most part I will use Lego parts for the chassis.

Hello everyone! I have had this build on my shelf for a bit now, but I completely redesigned the inner workings of the 42138 Ford Mustang set. I do not have an eye for building a better-looking body, but I satisfied myself with being able to build a completely working RC chassis. Includes: -RWD (with diff) -A sort of trailing arm dependent rear suspension -Independent front suspension -Ackerman Steering Geometry -Headlights (PF LEDs) -And corrected stance! (or at least improved) :) I know some of y'all really just want to see the functionality part of this... lol More pictures on my BrickSafe:) Let me know what y'all think! I would like some feedback on the front independent suspension particularly... lol. That was my favorite part. I can provide more pictures bc I know in these ones you can't see the front suspension very well with the parts being mostly black in that area. P.S. I have already since made some enhancements to the rear suspension but would like to make the body modular so it can be removed from the chassis and possibly even attempt to add a small V8 replica (probably not functional).

Is anyone else in the waiting list for Lego.com? I am surprised that they finally did a queue for their website like this since they definitely get enough traffic on pages like PAB. Now I guess I need to get up at midnight or something when less people in my country are awake and active.

I am currently working on building a Lego chassis for a completely true RC-powered vehicle. I am using TF-engineering wheel hubs, some bearings that fit over lego axles, and 3D-printed parts (some which I designed) such as O-frames for the bearings and an adapter from the motor spindle to Lego axles. The goal of those parts is to avoid as much friction in the drivetrain as possible while maintaining the (mostly) Lego characteristics of the rest of the build. I was spending a lot of time on the front axle, which is very complicated. I will just describe it here and post pictures later this week after I get past my finals for school. The front axle has independent suspension, Ackerman steering geometry, drive (using the Audi E-Tron set cv joints and the Ferrari differentials), and most important of all... virtual pivot steering. It doesn't have great suspension travel (about 3 studs) but it will work. I currently have 4 normal 6.5L shock absorbers for each wheel.

@HorcikDesigns, thanks for the link to your design! I have a small portfolio of other people's 3D Lego compatible part STL files from Thingiverse.com and Printables.com. I have designed a couple Lego compatible parts of my own, but particularly adapters from RC to Lego for a project I am working on rn.

@HorcikDesigns, did I spot a 3D-printed connector between your front axle and the portal hub? The little piece that pops onto the portal hub tow ball and appears to connect to the rest of the axle by axle hole?

I had all the bevel gears engaging using their bevels (or at 90-degree angles to each other). It was very challenging and there was a lot of half-beam spacing. There was one location where I had two 12-tooth bevel gears on opposite ends of a 2-stud-long axle with a single half-beam in-between them. It was pretty goofy and bulky looking. I think if I were to show you I would build it again... (which would probably end up in a slightly different result) because I only had a short video of it and that was a while ago and not filmed well at all. The main premise of the design was my discovery of how this and this fit together nicely (though probably not entirely "legal"), so I used that combination instead of the standard 16-tooth clutch gears.