Mr Jos

By using axles and gears you can link the servo motor to all 4 wheel hubs to steer them 90° at the same time.

I said it indeed, as it's a new part ID, and the photo shown was indeed a straight gear 60T turntable. I just wonder why, maybe less friction in some setups? Or anything else better?.. If so I might need to buy 7 of them and change them out in my 6axis-robot, they all use gears as spurs, not bevelled. But I don't have the set, so can't confirm hands-on.

I there anyone who has; 2 of the new 12T not-beveled blue gears Some small chain pieces Any motor to drive 1 of the gears Make a setup with the 2gears, 1driven by the motor, 1 idler make a nice chain around them. 1st test, just let the motor run, does it make clicking noise? (If you want to know what I mean, try a 16T red clutch gear as idler, it makes an awefull noise. Or a 8T gear, it's to small for the chain to bend around) 2nd test, put some resistance on the idler axle with your fingers, more and more to see if the driven gear starts to skip. (The same test with 2x normal 16T gears would either rip the chain open or stall the motor) I'ld like to know if I can use this gear to make conveyor belts, as they can be even more low profile, now the 16T gear is the smallest useable. EDIT: Extra question, does anyone have this 12T spur gear as Stud.Io part? I can't find it yet in the library.

I tried that, the weigth is not enough. But right now, I'm rethinking about an older idea, of adding a rubber band to open the latch. If they would help pull it open.. And then the cylinder pushes it to a closed position again. mhmm worth trying. I already tried many setups, using springs etc, but they have a short range. Only 1 stud for the normal ones, and the large ones 2studs, but they are so big.. The pneumatic cylinder is just 5studs long and has 2studs range, so fits perfectly under a 6stud tile. For another TODO, the operation of multiple valves I already tried adding shocks to the valve to push it back closed, so I just need to push or pull the lever in 1 direction. Problem here; It's huge and 1 hard shock is not enough to move the valve (there is a lot of resistance in these). Conveyor is already finished, and fits under the gantry with the bins on top. Might have to put it a bit more up to fit another belt under it.

Pneumatics are something hard to design in 3D.. It's difficult to know how the air lines will behave. The conveyor underneath needs to be high enough so stuff dropped from one side, does not flow over the wall at the other side. But as can be seen in the next render, the air line connected to the cylinder has to pass this wall. The full open cylinder (left one at front) can be in that position easy. The closed ones as well. But the right front, somewhere in the middle of the movement, will go very close to the wall.

I've been modelling the full size 20 storage spaces in build order steps. I did finally find a way to render faster, but it looks really bad with the shadowing on. Will need to turn that off next time. This is the real basic needed structure to make it strong enough to withstand any forces on it. Now need to find a way to route the 20 pneumatic air lines from the back to the front, and then all 40 to a remote place where all the valves are to be operated. Now need to test and see what walls I want to put on top of this structure.. If anyone got ideas.. don't hold back and let me know. Would like it if it's semi transparant so you can actually see the sorted pins in the storage bins. EDIT: Added a missile wall setup: The height is the same as the original design, around 4,5studs. But the problem is the walls in the middle, they are 6studs wide, so the liftarm setup will not work there. (So nothing in the middle yet) Edit2: Just realised that 3+3 = 6. On to legs and conveyor belt underneath design.

I've been testing some setups, and seems a 6x6 tile is a good storage bin, the gripper hand can fit inside to drop a pin. And each storage place can hold a lot of pins. I tested some real setup to see the forces on the hinges if the pneumatic cylinder is opened/closed many times with 2-3bar. The test was good, but I now need to find a way to make 20+ individual trapdoors that can be opened on request. I tried to find a good and strong design in Studio, but due to the 1stud thickness allround and the middle being shared, it's an odd number of studs. Hard to make a bin with system bricks only, so I used Technic stacked for the 13L. What's your opinion for this system/studless mix, or any idea how to get it better? Later a 3 or 6wide conveyor will run under all these trapdoors to bring the dropped items into a pallet/bag/whatever as they were sorted. Another still to do issue is how to operate 20 pneumatic valves with max 2 motors (or 3 at the limit). The pneumatic pumps will just be run by a power functions motor at constant 12V with an over pressure valve I'll build, so no worries for air pressure. Just how to get a motor to actuate 20 valves. Interval times can be like 20seconds or more.

And the last, free extension 2, the scanning conveyor belt is done. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119698/Mr_Jos/4d-gantry-robot-free-extension-2-scan-conveyor/#details Now my whole current setup can be rebuild from scratch. (Also allows me to break it completely down now, if I'm bored of testing the pneumatic release system to free up an EV3). But I need to have my Logistics center setup ready for the event in 3weeks.

This is beyond awesome!! Will the track be inside? I think with the sun on the black track it will have more problems. And it seems to really dislike that one corner, I wonder what would happen if you let it run in the other direction, as now it goes off at the inside. Anyway, love the doggy!

First free extension for the set is ready, the energy chain that can hold all the cables needed for; Programming / Charging the battery for a whole day running without changing the batteries / Sensor cables for sensors on the baseplate (as in my model). https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119640/Mr_Jos/4d-gantry-robot-free-extension-1-energy-chain/#details Anyone ever in need for an energy chain, have fun with this design, it's working perfect for me in my warehouse that has been running for 100+hours already. Next upgrade will be a simple feeding conveyor belt.

Your next project looks a lot like the new Technic set with the same name I'll be following to see what you will be able to make, guess you will go bigger size with pneumatic outriggers aswell? Else you can take the new set and raise the whole upper structure 10studs.

The 'real' machine this is made after is a clothing sorting installation. The usage of the flaps can be seen here. Still needs to expand a whole lot to be the 'same'!

I need that actuator! Been waiting to make a machine that my company makes for a long time, as the Lego actuators are to short to make a Baling Press.

Those 8T gears in the picture look reaaaally thin where the widest part of the axle is, like a tenth of a mm. I'ld imagine if you put that on a metal axle and power it, you will get Osprey results. For the rest, they look very rough indeed. I'ld think that it eats plastic liftarms for breakfast if you drive it with a buggy motor.

I finally made this model in Studio, first an empty basic version that is possible for everyone to make with standard pieces. This one can move in 3 directions pretty fast and allows the gripper to be opened/closed quickly. As it has no feeding conveyor/energy chain to route cables down, it needs to be programmed with fixed points. Or an Infrared remote could be added as there are still 3 sensor slots free. https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-119580/Mr_Jos/4d-gantry-robot-superfast-basic-setup/#details The latest video of it working (with a manual feeding conveyor and color sensor); I changed the chain gears to 24T instead of 40T for more accurate positioning, but it's just a variable in the coding, so easy to change back (after adding a bit more chain pieces). I made it into 3D as I'm now trying to make a storage system that fits under the gantry, that works with pneumatic cylinders to release 1 sort at a time onto a conveyor belt underneath, that will bring the sorted pins to a pallet/box. I don't have enough pneumatic cylinders to make this in real so I thought it would be better in Studio. A 3 or 6 wide belt will then be running under these flaps to bring all the pins to the end of the conveyor and drop into a box. Flaps setup will be 2x10 in row or something. These small pneumatic cylinders need very little air, and move quick, just need to find a way to actuate 20 levers with just 2motors max. (I want 20 or more bins) So before I buy all these 'expensive' pneumatic pieces I'ld like to make a 3D model as I don't have enough system parts to make the bins either.

I don't get the black circled numbers near the axles (in the callout boxes) if I do that, only the 1:1 size box to put in the corner.

Are those instructions made with Studio? If so, did you manually add the black size square/rounds at the axles/liftarms (Not the ones in the sizebox ofcourse)? If so, that's some determination! If it's an automatic option, I need to know where! Especially technic bricks are hard to make instructions for, a they don't have a size box, so you'll need to count the holes or add manually everywhere a picture. Very nice model anyway.

Can't say much about those electronics, but the ones I always used survived ok. During normal operation+crashes no water at all came in the boat, as I always taped the top hull to the boat completely all around. Even a flip then prevents water leaking in. Like after this crash, no damage to motors/battery/electronics due to tape. Tape can be seen in the 2nd video It's the best way to prevent damage. But even with big crashes where water did come in, I just washed it out with clean water and let it sun dry. Never had broken electronics due to water (did have damage 2x from a fire in the boat due to 2x180Amps going through the 2x 150A ESC setup, 7000W of power is insane for a RC boat). Lego motors will give maximal like 5-15W. If you would use Power Functions motors I'm pretty sure they will survive, can't say much for the newer motors because of the angle feedback And about the RC electronics, the 40MHz receiver I used in my 1st DIY boat (that got caught in the YouTube algoritm somehow), the receiver was open to splashing water and worked for years until I no more needed it when I changed to 2.4GHz. Same for the controller etc that were from a RC car, so not water tight. Biggest but: It has to be "fresh" water. Don't do it in the sea or any other water with (high) salt concentration.

I do know that they used the low frequency controllers for model submarines as they indeed work deeper under water. My 2.4GHz was good for my RC speedboat (130km/h topspeed), but the moment it flipped it was pretty much over. I think they used the 27 / 40 MHz for subs. For my drone I had nearly 10years ago I used a GoPro connected to a really strong receiver, it gave me 7km (yes kilometers) of range to see the direct video stream in my fatshark goggles, haven't used it in a very long time and I don't remember the frequency. The video you talk about is also from a cheap 27MHz set salvaged I think. A simple toy remote with 4buttons.

Seems you're not going to be the only one not going to Lego World Utrecht, looks like it got cancelled.

For anyone interested, I tried cleaning the 6 micropython programs running this warehouse, added annotations everywhere (But I did get bored with it for the 2 last ones, left robot brick because it's so difficult with all the math involved, and it has been to long ago. And the ESP program as it's not done in Visual Studio code but Thonny IDE). All 6 can be found here: Mr-Jos-Technic/Lego-EV3-Warehouse: MicroPython programs for my EV3 / ESP powered LEGO warehouse (github.com) I'm curious if anyone else already made large programs like these for Lego, and if anyone sees 'mistakes', as to how I could have done parts more effecient. I learned to program from reading online these sites. Python Lists (w3schools.com) for learning all basics for MicroPython ev3devices – EV3 Devices — ev3-micropython 2.0.0 documentation (pybricks.com) for learning how to control all the EV3 motors/sensors etc (Thanks @Pybricks!) Huge thanks to them for having these free learning platforms. One of the last things I learned was about dictionaries, and it has helped to make the programs so much cleaner (less variables) and easy to program. Now I'm back working on the 3D gantry robot, I hooked the Power Function motor to my 12V laptop supply I already use to constantly charge the EV3 batteries, so I don't need to use AA batteries in the battery box. Trying to get this MOC to work more reliable so I can take it with me to events, and maybe integrate it in this MOC, if it does, I'll post it here. EDIT: With these programs now online, and the full warehouse in 3D for free on Rebrickable, in theory anyone could now remake this! /EDIT

The fun really starts if it is a MOC, you have not made instuctions/a 3D model for yet. And you have taken it in the back of the car to a show or whatever, and it crumbles into pieces. Then you really have to search where every piece belongs.

Have fun reading; Motors with rotation sensors — pybricks v3.2.0b1-r3 documentation When I started with programming the EV3 with micropython, I knew nothing. By reading @Pybricks good documentation I managed to advance my programs more and more. I hope I linked the good site to the hub/motors you use as I only use the EV3 documentation so far.

That looks really good that 12T gear! It'll allow smaller builds than the 16T gear being smallest before (8T did not work with chains). But what I actually wanted to know is the new gears that have a hole in center instead of an axle, so they can be used as idler on an axle. Anyone able to test those gears with a chain and pwoer it with any motor, to hear if it clicks or not? The 16T red clutch gear does make an awefull clicking noise when powered with a chain.

Not only about this clutch gear, but the new non-bevel gears. Do they allow a small chain to run around them smoothly? The red 16T clutch gear with hole does not like a chain around it, and clicks a lot and awefull noise can be heard. If this 20T clutch gear does allow better running, I would need to order 8 to swap 16T ones out in my warehouse conveyors, they make a lot of noice.