rskamen

I just began to de-construct my Ver 2 Ball Factory and checking to see what parts I can reuse. I know I will have to order a great many new and additional parts for Ver 3. I don't have any 1x14 and 1x16 Technic bricks. So it will be awhile until I order them and can begin the actual build.

Another hot, humid and thunder storming afternoon. I swapped motors and back to my trusty M motor. I rebuilt both train units to be as friction free as possible. I installed the 16/16 gears on the elevator and it is consistently going up to the top, slow and steady. Unless I have all the parts on hand, I don't think I will rebuild the lift with the Akiyuki gearing. I will go through my meager parts bins and see what I have. @Berthil, watch out, I am about to start buying and sorting my own parts for your Version 3 Ball Factory. I am going to reuse a lot of my RED bricks. Hate to just put them all aside .

@Doug72 Why did I know that you would come up with some higher math :) That's why you are an Engineer. I only published the books that you read and studied. I have gone over every connection, gear, axle and wheel on both the train units and the elevator. There is nothing binding and virtually no untoward friction. I even tried @MajklSpajkl counter-weight system instead of Berthils thinking that maybe there was less friction with fewer and more direct pulleys. Made no difference. I swapped M motors just in case one was malfunctioning. No difference. I am down to a few possible changes at this point. I would love to get this sorted out so I can move on to @Berthil Version 3 of the Ball Factory. That rebuild is tugging at my wallet (Bricklink). 1. I will put an L motor back in one of my train units and test it again. Is it possible to regear the train unit for less speed and more torque? 2. Change the elevator gears to 16/16 which seemed to work the best under current set up- although not as fast as the 20/12 (but I won't make that change until I test the L motor one more time). 3. Rebuild with Akiyuki gearing and @Berthil switches and locks. (My last option as I don't think I have all of the necessary parts on hand). Glad it is the hot, humid, and rainy season here in Florida. Gives me some indoor time that I usually don't spend in the cooler months (cooler being 24 degrees Celsius, Summer time daily averages is about 33 Celsius).

Just tried swapping the 20T/12T gears to a 12T/20T configuration. Took 28 seconds to ascend the elevator. Way too slow. Back to the 20/12. By hand, it works smoothly up or down. By train, going up is slow and at times seems to stall. Coming down is quick and smooth. More weights in the counter-balance? I had the L motor in one train, but I was to aggressive and jumpy. Went back and put in a fresh new M motor. I'll get it. Just like the Catch and Spin Robots. Took constant adjusting and reassembly, but now it works flawlessly and consistently.

Thanks @Doug72, I will try to post a video. I just changed the batteries and it made no difference. I double checked everything you have outlined in the past week or two. The elevator worked better on it's few few test runs. Very frustrating, but I will keep at it. I will pull it out of my layout so I can work on it at my desk. Hard working over the dining room table.

Thanks for your input. I am resisting buying the 8878 battery. My M motors run well, but I have swapped one for a brand new one and it made no difference. The train runs very smoothly and quickly around the track, through the passing module, and even the Conveyor runs smoothly and quickly. Just bought a 40 pack of AA Duracells at Costco. I'll let you know if it makes a difference. If not, I will rebuild the elevator with the Akiyuki gearing. Many of my neighbors and family members have seen the train setup and have marveled at it and how it works. I just don't want to put it on the shelf until I get that elevator ascending quicker. Descent is always quick and smooth. @Doug72 I have read and reread the pages with all the work that went into the worm gear set up. That, plus your advice convinced me to build it that way. I am not giving up on it yet!

@Doug72 Thanks for your response. I watched @Berthil videos and Akiyuki videos and their lifts are significantly faster than mine. I also find that after a few cycles, the train runs slower and slower on the elevator. I might swap out the AA batteries again for Duracell. I find those typically the best. I have been using Energizer and they just don't have the staying power. In the mean time I am going to look hard at the Akiyuki gearing on his pdf instructions vs my current worm gear (which I much prefer). I am also going to change back to the 20T/12T. What is your thoughts on 24T/8T (or reverse that combination). May take too much power to run it properly.

@Doug72 I just changed the gears on the elevator from the original 20/12 to 16/16 gears that run the worm gear. No improvement in the speed while ascending. Everything turns freely when operating by hand in either direction. Would reversing the order of the original gearing from 20/12 to 12/20 make any difference? I might dismantle the elevator, try the original Akiyuki gear design along with @Berthil lower switch to hold the elevator in place. By the way, my Catch and Spin Robots have been working perfectly. My little grandson played with it for hours last night. Just had to keep him from ripping it apart:)

Excellent! I love how you did the ball return. Are there any plans or can you point me to the necessary modules? I can figure out the Snake slide since I have those plans from Akiyuki. I am getting ready to dismantle my Vers 2 Ball machine so I can reuse all the parts. My version 3 will be a combination of Black, DBG, LBG, Yellow, and a lot of RED bricks :)

@Doug72 I managed to install the L motor without much problems. Believe it or not, I prefer how the train operates with the M motor. It seems less "aggressive" and the elevator, although slightly slower, runs smoother. I have one train with an M and one with an L motor. I will use both before deciding to upgrade the M or downgrade the L. Fresh AA batteries in my M unit seem to have it working consistently on the elevator. If I go back to an M, I will use a new M motor and fresh AA in that unit.

I do have one ball that always leaves the dumper almost after it returns to start. That ends upon the table top. I am still hunting for a "lug" that fell off and just can't find. Any further details, besides what you already posted on installing the L motor would be appreciated. I think I can do it based on your posts and pictures on previous pages. Thanks for the encouragement and all your past help.

I will have to experiment with gears, and possibly the L motor. The lift is perfectly fine, nothing binds, and operates freely when turning the gears by hand. On the Train units, the "lugs" that hold the hopper in place on to the battery box keep falling off from vibration. Against all rules, I just put a dab of glue on each 1x2 brick to hold it securely. I am not planning to display this at any shows, so I am a little less concerned abut the 1 ball/second rule. Still, I would like the elevator to ascend a bit quicker. I just tried it with some balls and it is working :)

I managed to commandeer my wife's crystal glass dining room table for a few days. Just getting started. A little more fine tuning and fresh batteries in the Red train, and I will be ready to run it with a full load of balls. I apologize for the totally inept video, but you all get the idea that it really works! Next video should be fully operational. .

@Berthil Yes, I see it now. I will look into this. First I will add more weights to the counter-weigh cylinders and see if that helps. Thanks for posting these detailed photos. Once I get this working well, I will begin accumulating parts and building your Version 3 Ball Factory.

@BerthilThanks for the suggestion. I will look into that. Do you have any reference or photos of the switches your mention?

I checked all your ideas 1 thru 6. Then changed batteries. Only marginally better ascending on the elevator. Since it runs well with only a little upward pressure from my finger under the elevator, I think #7 - more weight in the counter-weight cylinders. I believe that will take care of the sluggish ascent. Will let you know after my next quick trip to Home Depot to pick up steel washers.

I am using the M motor. I do not have any L motors just lying around. I looked closely at you L motor conversion. I might buy an L motor and give it a go. I admire your inventiveness and your drive to make things work. If I had a big inventory of parts, I might try something new. I am also debating about taking my Catch & Spin robots apart and donate the pieces to @Berthil Ver 3 Ball Factory. It's a cute module, but I find it a little frustrating with dropping balls.

@Doug72 Thank you for all of those great suggestions. I have tried some of them already. Some are new to me and I will work on those to see if everything runs smoothly. I have raised the elevator numerous times by hand rotating the 24T gear and it seemed OK. Yes, sometimes a gear rack will move slightly out of position and needs to be reseated. If I "help" the elevator up using slight pressure with my finger underneath it, it goes very smoothly. Maybe later today I will have time for fresh batteries. That may cure all! I appreciate all your time in helping along.

I have not yet tried the 16/16 gears. Takes a bit of dismantling to do that. I find after a few runs, it gets slower and slower. I will put fresh AA batteries in the train unit as a first try. Then the gears if needed. Yes, the Rotary Dumper runs perfectly. As they say. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". But I did try to fine tune by one gear tooth, but went right back to it's current setting :) Once I have the entire loop set up, with the passing module, and both train units running, I can concentrate on better video. I will have to commandeer a section of my living room floor. The dining room table is off limits, and also a tad too small.

My video skills leave a lot to be desired. And my kitchen makes an awful backdrop, but here are a few quick videos while I was testing the timing of the modules. Working on an area for the layout, but everything is working rather well.

I will give that a try. I have plenty of 16T gears as my collection of parts keeps growing. Thanks

The 8T gear on the train wheel drives a 24T gear on the elevator which also has a 20T double bevel gear on the same axle right next to it.. The 20T double bevel drives a 12T double bevel gear on the axle that turns the worm gear. Hopefully I am making myself clear.

@Doug72 I only used the 16/16 gears in making my adjustments. I will also look at the 56/8 if I experience any further alignment problems. I do notice that you have one additional 4L gear rack in front of the red 1x2 tile. That gear rack extends into the big double yellow circle gears. I don't have that. My gear rack inside the Rotary Dumper ends to the left of the 1x2 tile. Did you add that additional gear rack? I don't think I missed it in the instructions. I have the correct amount and location of the guide beams. Any thoughts on why the Elevator slows down while ascending, but everything else works well including the Dumper. @Doug72 - Thanks for referring me to your post on page 3 regarding the timing of the Rotary. Very easy to understand and will make future adjustments (if needed) a more precise set up.

As you can see, I have a long way to go in obtaining the correct colors, fixing or modifying sections, etc. I am awaiting official TLG rubber bands. I may also replace the RED 12L Technic brick (in the @Berthil counter-weight system) with an 11L DBG beam just to keep colors more consistent. Or just two 3L beams. Only need the double thickness where the axles go through for added support.I will try to set up the layout just so I can test everything. I did work on the timing of the Rotary. It was releasing the train too soon, or too late, causing jams. I think I finally got it working properly for each revolution. I do find that the elevator almost grinds to a halt while going up, but the train feels strong and no problem in the rotary dumper or on the elevator going down. There does not seem to be anything binding or undo friction. I will replace the 6 AA batteries and see if that makes a big difference. I am begging my wife to use or dining room table to test the layout. Setting up on a carpeted floor is far from ideal.

I do see a few differences in the system you built vs. the system I built. I will post some photos in a little while. Mine is far less skillfully done than yours, and I will attempt to modify mine to your better build. Thank you for posting these.