Henry 991

Good tip. Didn’t come to my mind when I assembled the layout section the other night.

Interestingly, I also started the same project of creating 2x6 layout. The track is separate, on tiles, in all but one module that is the tunnel section. I also deviated from the MILS standard by placing the tracks with 12 stud spacing. The 16 would have made the layout scenery part too narrow.

Super. Then it’s fit to my 1:48 collection.

Agree, it’s a beauty. Can anyone approximate the scale? E.g. provide the wheelbase in studs? My guess has been that it’s about 1:55.

Nothing specific but I’d look at the H0 scale digital controllers for inspiration. A recent (June?) Model Railroader had a review of all major systems. That could be valuable read for you!

I’m also considering stacking up the PF motors. With the third party controllers (FX Brick, S-Brick), 2-3S lipo batteries and the PF motors, I don’t think I need PU. Actually the opposite, it might be that the old PF platform is more capable in the train use case. I have a stock of around 8 XL motors and 6 L motors. I plan to bring it to around 15+10 over the next months. That should be enough to continue building scale trains.

Hi, I just came across some drafts what the new PU L and XL motors might be like. https://racingbrick.com/2019/05/powered-up-update-technic-hub-l-xl-motors-revealed/ The new motors seem much bulkier than the current PF motors. Both L and XL have grown is size. However, I don’t expect their performance to have improved as it wasn’t the case in the previously launched PU motors. What this implies is that the new motors’ power generation density is way down. That is not good news for our train MOCs. Fitting required power into the train designs will be harder with PU motors. E.g. new XL motor is 8 studs long vs. PF XL 6. It means that you cannot do portal mounting in tender. Also, the motor is boxier than the PF. That suggests that having the new XL mounted in the boiler will be hard. I.e. I cannot see if you can fit it even on a 1:48 Big Boy boiler as it square profile doesn’t leave space for support beams and cables. Overall, I will probably opt for continued use of PF motors due to these packaging issues in the PU power units. Also, I hope that BrickTrax, PFBrick or some other 3rd party would create a compact and powerful motor. Like L-sized or M-sized but XL-torque. If you look at the RC e-glider motors, they have “horsepower” class motors that are not more bulkier than our small LEGO motors. Of course the metal gears etc. are expensive, ++100 USD.

I’m trying a resin printed version first. Attached please find a picture of the prototype. The small hole is where a tightening screw will the threaded. The core idea of this is to be able to use 2 mm steel axles and ball bearings throughout the engine drivetrain, on all axles.

Some progress with my build. The engine is now in running condition although not complete. I will still need to work with the tender packaging. I couldn’t properly close the hatch with all the cabling and battery battery (3S, 800 mAh) A marginally smaller battery - that I already ordered - will allow reinstalling the second motor that is now removed but required for smooth running.

Even Lego Group’s brand new layout in LEGO House of Billund runs on 9V track. I was stunned when I realized that a couple of weeks ago.

Good points throughout. To make this hobby more popular, a couple of suggestions: - improve “kits” availability. Having started this hobby less than 12 months ago, I found that finding prototypical-enough train model instructions and getting familiar with Bricklink were the big hurdles. Brickmoderailroader and Bricktraindepot etc. are doing fantastic job - the driveline tech requires improvement. I’m thinking of both the motors (which are both low-torque and unnecessarily large) and controllers. It’s rather pathetic that even my 2-year-old son’s Brio train (wooden Swedish model) has RFID based action modules and smarter electronics that we do ... - ... which takes me to another opportunity: smart switches. Those would be real cool. Ability to create automation systems by embedding the intelligence into the switches to make them smart rather than having to control entire layouts with software - the chargeable battery with powered rail would be real nice certainly but I’m afraid that the market would be smallish compared to the Capex required for the injection molding tooling of all the rails etc. Needless to say, I’m very excited about this concept introduction and I will spend a small fortune on the track components when the stuff comes available to buy. best Henry

The launching sequence is indeed a good point. The product value proposition document has two very compelling elements: - Better motors. It’s ridiculous to have to use multiple motors in LEGO trains when a single, small, RC brushless motor would indeed provide 5-10x the torque in a L-sized packaging. E.g. geared inrunnners. Of course LEGO motors are made super cheap and geared brushless motors aren't - Possibility to eliminate the battery with conductive rails and pickup wheels Both 1 and 2 bring great packaging benefits and make the locomotives more compact and capable. However, and here comes the tricky part, in reality most users will have hybrid tracks in the beginning where a fair share of the track will be plastic LEGO track and only a part will be from FX Track. I’d therefore suggest following launch order: 1. Controller: FX Brick Pro, and the new wiring, Android app etc. This is a stand-alone product that sells well and keeps the revenue coming 2. New, stronger and higher quality motors. Also, works stand alone and has a larger target AFOL group than just the train hobbyist. Good for funding. 3. Battery box that can be charged with pickup wheels 4. Power pickup wheels That would create the installed base so that users can benefit from the new metal track. I’d thereafter start launching the track sections. Switches are obvious ones to begin with, as well as double straights - however, Bricktracks’ switch might reduce the demand for switches first. Just my thoughts.

I paid slightly more, but there were a couple of reasons for that: - I wanted to have visible parts in “new” shape. A lot directly from LEGO Pick-a-Brick - I purchased 3D printed wheels - I had relatively expensive electronics (FXBrick, sounds, lights and 3rd party battery although not expensive) - parts where ordered in EU where it might cost a bit more?

I really like the ambition level of the project: it’s amazing if this happens. A couple of concerns: - the size of the investment must the large. Can they really finance this? - I’d really like to see the entire LEGO train ecosystem do well. I’m going to purchase Bricktracks’ R104 switches when they become available - but are enough people going to do so or will the sales suffer?

The switches are labeled as P40, not R40. The drawings also indicate much wider radius, closer to R104 than R40. I’m optimistic. R40 switches are useless from practical and prototypical view point.

This looks great - good work! What would be a real deal would be a large radius bi-radius switch. E.g. R104 inside and R120 outer curve (without the straight track piece at all). That switch would make beautiful layouts with smooth, sweeping curves. My experience is from H0 railroad track design.

Will send when complete! The progress is slow as I’m not able to put in many hours per week into this hobby. Below please find a picture of the cabling. I’m installing LEDs (Brickstuff picos) for the headlight and to the cab. I prefer having proper channels where the cable can run free and is not squeezed between the bricks.

Hi, Just installed a speaker into the boiler. It’s FXBricks’ XL-sized unit and facing downwards to the track. It’s barely noticeable and I’m quite pleased to how this worked out. I have still some work to do with the cabling for the lights and this speaker. - Henry

That sounds real good. It’s good if the people who make big contributions to this hobby can earn a share. Makes me happy to direct funding for the brick train ecosystem!

Thanks for advice! That’s probably what I will do. I do have a suitable airbrush&compressor and experience from the process of sanding, priming, painting and varnishing. If done diligently, I expect the quality to be better than Shapeway’s most expensive “premium gloss black finishing” but with a third of its cost. Reasonable?

I have following modifications in my mind: 1) install FXbrick’s XL speaker into the boiler, in front of the first motor 2) have FXBrick receiver behind the motors 3) install headlight LED and cab lights as well 4) have a big battery in the tender with a 10V switching regulator (I have both components already). The battery is connected with an MPX connector (6 pins) So if anyone has competence and interest to make Big Boy audio file for FXBrick, I very much would be interested to support! Maybe it’s something as simple as having twin 2-cylinder engines run in parallel, but I simply cannot produce that audio track myself. btw: I equipped the Southern Pacific 4-10-2 also with the speaker (your earlier instruction). A small LiPo battery and FX Brick fitted the tender. Can send pictures in a couple of weeks if anyone is interested.

Difficult to say because I modified the parts list, and also combined it with the parts order for 3 railway cars. Probably 450-500 euros with many new parts? Nevertheless, because of the large size of the order, I made some sourcing errors which probably cost me like 50 euros extra. Too bad, didn’t notice that until it was too late, but overall, I’m super happy to get parts for such a great model!

I just ordered the parts. Preferred new elements for visible parts: slopes, tiles and visible bricks. The bill of materials is not inexpensive for Big Boy! A question on the wheels: which material should I go in Shapeways? Affordable or premium plastic (nylon)? Best, H

What a majestical Lego model - as graceful as the real locomotive. I already purchased the plans and I’m in the middle of assessing the parts lists. How exciting!

Awesome work again! I’m somewhere in the middle of building your 4-10-2 SP and really enjoy it; the quality and thinking you have put into it is substantial. So thank you! I’m considering to build this Santa Fe as well but the one I’m really looking forward is a large articulated steam engine, e.g. UP Challenger. If I was you, I’d leave Big Boy to be the real crown of your line up, and do it much later ;) When you design your next engine, my humble ask to you is to mount the motors into the engine body/boiler so that there would be a enough space in the tender for the electronics, transceiver (FX Brick), large speaker and battery.