heyitsdisty

Yeah, no worries; I didn't realise Lego already had the 360 view on their servers since the set isn't listed on shop.lego in my location yet, so I assumed we were talking about the JB Spielwaren site.

Thanks!

Oooh :0 How does one get to the 360-degree view section? I've looked all over the JB Spielwaren page but I don't see any sign of a button.

Out of interest, where's this image from?

Thanks for the review @Milan! Weird question, but what's the weight of each tyre?

Thanks! EDIT: Thanks also to @Zerobricks for the clarification. :)

Looks fantastic. Anyone know the stud dimensions of the space inside the new tyres?

Appreciate the insights, guys! :)

Bit of an unusual request; any experts in physics / mechanical principles here? Since TC11, I've been building Lego battlebots. Inspired by some videos online, I've built an axe-swinging mechanism that travels pretty fast. I've had a few people ask how the axe works, and I want to put together a video explaining the physics of the mechanism in a kid-friendly way. Here's the problem. I'm not 100% sure I understand how it works - and I definitely don't know the right terminology to use! Here's a video of the axe in action; please excuse the potato quality: I've tried googling 'conservation of motion', 'inertia', 'jointed levers' etc. but I feel more confused than when I started...

Ha, I like it. I think the build is technically illegal, but you can make it legal pretty easily - just swap the 3L axle at the hips for a 3L lightsaber bar.

Completely missing the point. This set isn't for RC hobbyists who want to build 'proper' RC cars and take them to race meets or whatever. This is for kids who just want to build a fun little car (with absolutely no tools required) and drive it around their living room. Arguably, it's overpriced, sure. But let me ask you this: Can you take a Tamiya kit and build whatever you want with it? Is your Tamiya kit's parts 100% compatible with your existing collection of Tamiya kit parts so you can modify it even further? (In other words, almost every part the company has produced since they started selling kits decades ago?) When you're bored of the new thing you've built, can you take it apart and build something completely different again? And when you're done making new things, can you put your Tamiya kit back together exactly as it was when you first built it? Lego's smartphone controls going out of date is a complete non-issue. For the casual customers that this set is aimed at, they'll have moved on within 5 years, let alone ten. For the AFOLs who still care, there's still going to be plenty of free third-party app solutions out there to let you control your PU motors just fine; not to mention the official PU remote if you're really desperate. Your arguments remind me a lot of the PC vs console video game debate. Yeah, consoles will never beat PCs in terms of performance, and they're regularly getting replaced each generation with new consoles to buy while PC gamers can just update their machines with new components. And yet, plenty of people seem to enjoy the simplicity of console gaming just fine...

That's exactly it, thankyou!

Bit of an unusual request - wasn't sure whether to post here on in a separate topic - but can anyone help me track down a video? It was a Brick Experiment Channel style video comparing the strength of a plain Techic axle with different types of reinforced axle: e.g. an axle made from 2L axles and 2L connectors, an axle inside a stack of 2x2 round bricks, etc. It might have even been a BEC video, but I've combed their channel and found nothing, and YT/Google searches are equally fruitless. (I seem to remember the experiment rig wasn't red like all of BEC's rigs.)

This is a pretty neat solution, thanks. Sadly I don't have the switch, but I may well end up picking one up. One issue; presumably I'll need a 24-tooth clutch gear to turn the switch without stalling the drive motor. Is there an alternative way to let the switch slip that's less friction-ey? (Even if I add a gear with a friction pin on the switch-fed motor to balance out the friction on the switch-turning motor, I'd rather not be intentionally handicapping the speed/power of the drive, if possible.)

Hi folks, apologies if a similar question has been asked before: I usually build tank-steering robots (around 26 by 26 studs width/length) with one PF motor driving the left wheel(s) and another driving the right. Each motors is hooked up to a PF IR receiver slot so I can drive it around. However, I'd like to free up one of the two IR slots by having both wheels controlled by one motor. I need a mechanism that drives both wheels forward when I push the transmitter stick up, but drives them in opposite directions when I push down. It's been hard to find a reliable and not-super-bulky mechanism that lets me do this. I've tried Lego Technic Mastery's two-way to one-way rotation converter, but it seems to fail immediately under motor power. I've also tried a setup of using two 8-tooth gears next to one another and driven via a loose worm gear on an axle (so switching the direction of the axle pushes the the worm gear from one of the 8-tooth gears to the other) but it's just far too slow for the kinds of bots I want to build - even when gearing up the driver axle. And I've tried using a differential with one side going off to a gear-and-ratchet mechanism - so pushing up drives both wheels but pushing down locks one of the wheels in place while the other keeps moving - but it seems the differential always slips and/or the ratchet locks the gear in both directions! Does anyone have any ideas?

Thankyou - hoping to make all of them (or at least the first 5 or 6), including Sir K and Dead Metal (the pincer one). Might take me a while though!

To add to @Slegengr's excellent post above; you may not be aware that you can manually type in the angle when using the Hinge tool. (Took me about a year to figure out you could do it!) Rather than clicking and dragging the blue hinge arrow, click it once, then click inside the box where the angle is displayed in degrees. You can now type the desired angle into the box.

If you grew up watching robot fighting in the late 90s/early 00s - or perhaps you caught the rebooted series a year or two ago - you might recognise these two... More photos of both models available on my Instagram account: https://www.instagram.com/distysdumbrobots/ (Hope I've posted in the right subforum!)

I like the MOC so far, but can I suggest changing the name? https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Colon_cleansing

You didn't cover my question ;) Can we build alien spacecraft? What if we pair them with human craft (eg a rover designed for salvaging resources from downed alien craft)? I know you said EuroBrX is not expecting any hostile alien activity, but what if the aliens are friendly (or at least not actively hostile)?

Apologies if this kind of topic isn't allowed here, but I figure you folks are the best people to ask! I'm planning to build a combat with a flipper weapon, using only purist parts. The flipper needs to be able to flip over opponents which weigh up to 1kg. I've ruled out pneumatics for several reasons; they're expensive, bulky and I have no experience using them. I've also ruled out using a motor to power the flipper, as I don't think it will be able to launch at a high enough speed while still being able to tip opponents over. (A slow motor-powered lifter might work, but I'm looking to build a fast flipper.) I'm hoping to use an elastic or spring-powered mechanism with a single motor to reset, similar to PKW's TC11 entry (which I believe uses a third-party rubber band): (I'm planning on using a worm gear within my bot's reset mechanism, to prevent the flipper pulling itself back open under tension.) Here's some other methods I'm considering. The trouble with almost all of them is that I don't have enough of the parts listed to test them, and I don't want to invest in a bunch of new parts until I'm sure that they'll work. Hockey spring blocks (aka return to center springs) These seem nice and compact, but I only have one, and one alone isn't strong enough to lift (let alone flip) 1kg. Pullback motors I'm thinking of attaching these directly to the flipper arm at the pivot point, and pre-winding them before installing them. Again, I'm not sure how many I'd need, and I'm concerned that these motors might need a bit of run-up time to reach max torque/speed (so they wouldn't be able to launch the flipper instantaneously). They're also fairly heavy, so they could push my bot over the weight limit for competitions. Shock absorber springs I'm leaning against using these as I need the flipper to open to a reasonable height, and even the longer shock absorbers are too short. They're also pretty expensive on BL. Rubber bands Reasonably affordable and super space-efficient - but again, I don't know how many I'd need, and I'm also concerned about them snapping (which would leave the bot defenceless in the middle of a battle). Elastic string Same as above - I don't know how thick this is and I don't want it snapping during a battle. Clikits hairbands I bought four of these of Bricklink, hoping they'd be a thicker, more durable and higher-tension alternative to Lego rubber bands. Unfortunately they're not that much thicker than rubber bands and they actually seem to offer less tension. Minifig dog lead (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=xLeash&name=Dog Leash Elastic with Gem&category=[Animal, Accessory]#T=C&C=3) This looks more promising than the Clikits bands, but it's pretty rare on Bricklink and fairly expensive. - Does anyone have any tips on which method to use? Do you have any experience using these parts in any lifting/throwing/launching mechanisms in your own MOCs? Thanks for reading!

Question: can we build alien spacecraft? What if we pair them with human Mars vehicles (perhaps harvesting the spacecraft for parts)?

Thanks for the kind words, folks! I really wanted to include an ejector function! Sadly I couldn't figure out a reliable way of doing it. ;_; I have vague plans to build a teal quadbike to go with this one. :)

The latest (and probably last) iteration of the battlebot I built for the TC11 contest. Now features a 1,110 RPM spinning drum (not 2,220 as the video says - my bad).

This is really nice. It looks deceptively simple at first glance, but the amount of features you've managed to pack in is really impressive!