duifkelego

I just bought some new straight tracks at JB-Spielwaren

Spot the differences..... My FX track order arrived today and i put them into my new 9v mils modules straight away. Very happy with these tracks !! I can't wait to get my hands on some curved tracks from the next batch so I can start modding points :P Thanks Michael, for this great addition and keep up the good work !

Took a while to get an answer but I don't want to withhold it. I've found some grey double wire at conrad. But I think the color is off by just a little. https://www.conrad.nl/p/l2185-gr-draad-2-x-014-mm-grijs-5-m-1398102 Although most of the grey wire holds out for very long I've already seen some decay, they get hard a brittle. Soi I've used the conrad wire to replace them.

You mean a little something like this ? I totally agree ! I finally have some room to continue this line of tinkering now that my 12v collection has been sold. Definetely gonna buy some of this track once it's available in Europe.

So I spent a few hours putting the model into studio. It's not exactly the same build as on the previous pics but my fantasy ran wild. It comes in at a whopping 6200 parts already which forced me to lower the studio graphic settings, lol. I would love to hear some feedback so I can improve on my MOC-ing skills. Can anyone guess by which lego 12v models I was inspired in this build ?

I've decided to take the 7777 ideas book off of my build bucket list the "hard" way. I had already started building small things in the past already but now I took it up a notch. Below you can find some pictures of the bulk transfer building of pages 8 and 9. I regret to say they wee not built into a nice scene. But I could sell the build rather quickly so I did that and didn't think of picture easthetics before it was too late , a shame really. For me the fun is in the building and hunting parts rather then having the model.... and I do not have the room for such scenes permanently. The guy who bought the build also expressed a high interest in the scene of pages 30 and 31. So then i went ahead and build those models for him as well. By then i was comitted (to myself and the bucket list... ) So I went ahead and built the railway station of pages 42 and 43. This time the scene was properly finished with minifigs, lights, a train and more... I'll post some pictures below but there is more on my bricksafe : https://bricksafe.com/pages/duifkelego.

Hi guys , With some free time on my hands I started the digital version of my railway station in stud.io . When the main building was ready I tried to add some 12v track to the scene and ran into an issue. The straight 12v track were just fine. A little hassle to get them built , but ok . Then tried to add some curved tracks. These were very much more of a hassle ... There seems to be an issue with the radius or the length of the curved rail pieces. When I build 4 sections, I do not get the 90 degrees angle I expect. , see pictures below. It seems to be off by 3 degrees (counting studs and trigoniometry....) This is also the reason I can not get the curved conductor rail into place. as it's radius is different fthen the outer track rails I couldn't find a lot about this issue on the stud.io forum.... Has anyone else run into this and found a workaround ?

Thanks for the positive feedback ! you guys made me start work on digitising the model in studio . a side project for the moment as I'm now into upgrading and selling my 12V collection to make financial and physical room for new projects. I hope I'll remember to share when its's done

IT's a very lovely model indeed ! On the second topic .... It's never a question of being too expensive but more a question of willing or being able to afford it. The people making such sets know very well that they need to set a reasonable price level for the customers but they need to think of themselves as well. No viable business when you underprice to please customers. On a personal note : If I could afford it , I'd probably spend the money on something else . For me the fun is in designing, tinkering, building and chasing the parts. Not in having the model....

Hi All , Not being much of an MOC -er, somtimes I outdo myself. I've always wanted to build a huge railway station based on the 7824 and 7822. I built it 3 years ago but never finished it , it was collecting dust for 3 months before I took it down again , no room for such huge builds Anyways ... enjoy :) There is more on my bricksafe : https://www.bricksafe.com/pages/duifkelego/9-volt-pu-hybrid/12v-station

wow , absolutely gorgeous. I've been contemplating a build like this for a long time now... I'd love to build this one for real ! Would you be willing to share the design ?

A very nice build indeed. but those metal tracks in the youtube movie. would that be peco rail code 200 or code 250 ? never mind , already found it :https://www.doctor-brick.de/threads/legoconnex-mein-alternatives-9v-gleissystem.12878/

I guess I'll have to do both solutions... Maybe even frankenstein 2 motors to 1 channel and see if I can control them with the remote only so I can still drive some LEDs on the other channel. wait... wut , now I'm planning to buy 3 ? ......

Lol and there you have it... I thought I'd prepare for this set by buying a hub and an L motor. Now the dutch lego shop mentions I will need 2 medium motors 88008 for this set...

I can confirm that. I've already repaired a few... I have never been able to mend the squeking ones though... any tips ?

I must admit I did spit out a little MWUHAHA when the first test was a succes. Thanks ! @ electricsteam : I've been tinkering a lot on getting powered up to run without batteries. check out my earlier post from 2 years ago ... https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/171543-9v-and-pu-hybrid/&tab=comments#comment-3111781 I've done another upgrade on this system as well but I still need another cycle of development for it to run smoothly. parts are on order but it can take a few months , printing a wheel in metal and then do a casting run from it in nickel silver / alpaca. I've made some alternative track as well , I'll post some pics later today @LEGO_duden I've been wondering about progress on the FXbrick system , the thread is quiet for a month now. I really hope for some update soon !

This weekend I challenged myself to upgrade a 9 volt train motor with powered up functionality. The result can be seen in the attached pics. I discovered that the train motor only needs 2 wires connected to the hub to actually run , only the 2 PWM signal wires. , or pin 1 and 2 on the connector. This enabled me to used the other 4 wires for power transfer from the wheels to a bridge rectifier and a 7809 voltage regulator before feeding it back into the hub. The track is powered from the switch port of the 12 V speed regulator. which puts out 16 volt.

Actually I am worried about that. The ultimate goal is to have them machined or cast in alpaca / new silver. that's the material companies like Peco use for model rails and tarnishes very little. I'm also building track with peco rail profiles so having the wheels in the same material as the rails will also minimise contact resistance between the 2. but I have to find the perfect wheel before I can draw a mold again. The exact size of the axle hole is giving some issues

So I took it a step further today and built the setup into my extended 60197. The 2 motors on 1 channel project from this previous post was also called into service. To get a more detailed picture of what was happening to the electronics I also built in a voltage and current meter. This is connected to the power pickups directly before the power goes into the hub. so the PU hub is drawing 0.05 amps from 8.8V when on but idle. When I set the motors to full power , the voltage went down to 7.1 to 7.6 volts and current went up to 0.7 amps. The voltage swing is mainly dependent on the train going through a curve., the voltage drop from 8.8V when idle to 7.6 is because there is some resistance in the electrical loop. This is probably somewhere in the pickups and willbe my next point of attention. I've uploaded some more movie to my bricksafe but beware they are somewhat large files. Will be looking into a youtube channel for this.... I need some education on this video posting stuff. Some wheels were cast in silver with the mold taken directly from the plastic wheels. My girlfriend is a juwel smith so this was the fastest way :) Some other wheels were printed in steel by shapeways from the 3d model I made. I want to develop a little further before i'm comfortable sharing more detailed pics as the wheels are not rolling as freely as I would like them to. Though I am flattered by the request.

The most simple solutions are often the best. With some of these bearings I had from earlier experiments I modded some wheels this way and did some testing. It works nicely for me. Thanks very much for the tip ! This is going to make a difference in my train building. no more weight wories \o/ Going to try hooking up a wire to the bearing outer case and using this as power pickup too , I think.

I really don't like batteries for several reasons ( another discussion , don't want to preach) Another advantage would be less spacy PU hubs which are easier to incorparate in engine designs. I want to combine this with the 2 motors on 1 hub thing I did a while ago. Maybe I can run that experiment tomorow and see if the PU hub can run 2 motors with unlimited amp supply for longer periodes . I already know it can run 2 motors untill the batteries die ( in half an hour running :P and dependent on the weight of the entire train...) For that I'm looking into boosting the PU hub PWM signal so I can draw 2 or 3 amps from it and run even more motors on it. I'm also experimenting with track made from O-gauge rails for my own layout for circumventing the expensive original rails. these 2 would combine nicely in my head. But there is still the thingie of having to push the button on the train to connect the hub and the remote , any ideas on that ? I added the .mov extension to the file name , is it working now ?

I had some free time to work on another idea. I modded a PU system and some 9v wheel holders to power the PU unit off the 9v tracks. A first proto , still got a long way before it's a reliable and easy to assemble solution. see results below and the video on bricksafe https://www.bricksafe.com/files/duifkelego/9v and PU hybrid.mov

@Giottist Thanks for the addition ! I forgot all about that in my enthousiasm. Quite important info Track testing will be done this week Although I did already make a short movie. it's on bricksafe next to the pics in the first post https://bricksafe.com/files/duifkelego/DSC_0111.MOV I thought the same about the H-bridges but decided to take the risk and find out the hard way. The plug is lego proprietary design so probably we can't get it unassembled. there is a an entry for PF to PuP adapters on the s-brick site though so who knows... https://www.sbrick.com/store at the bottom. Dragunov2 I've phisically rotated the motor 180 degrees inside it's housing so I could keep the wiring the same. I had to hack some plastic out of the housing to do it . Giottist's solution can be done as well, I'll probably be eploring that opion too very soon!

Hi All , I want to start this one with thanking JopieK for his powered up tear down ! Without this info I would have had to do a lot more work before doing this. So instead of having a lazy sunday afternoon , I decided to take up one of the challenges TLG gave us with powered up. I'm in the proces of modifying a 60197 with longer bases and 7 cars at the moment. I wanted to power this beast with 2 motors so I could add even more cars in the future. So I took apart 2 PUP motors and removed the wiring from the PCB on the motor. I then soldered a piece of flatcable in place to get me through the base plate. I had to modify the base plate a little (...) to able to fit 1 motor as a jacobs bogie. Then i soldered the 2 flatcables to one of the removed motor cables , effectively switching both motors in parallel. In one of the motor assemblies I also turned the electrical motor around 180 degrees to get both motors rolling in the same direction. Some heavy mechanical modding had to be done to achieve this. I can probably find a better way if I put my mind to it. Anywayzz... without further ado, 2 pics of the result below and a WIP of the beast itself :) Have fun doing this for yourselves and don't hesitate to ask !

I already found some pics while googling for the new trainsets some friendly advice persuaded me to take the link down...